Rust

  • Thread starter Thread starter cejsmith
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cejsmith

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I've been looking over my bike and the seems to be patches of rust on the bike. For example on the inside of the hollow spinndle that goes thought the back wheel. Also in one or two place under the paint near bolts.

Is this normal?

My bike is a 2004 model and has done over 20000 miles.
 
I found that the rust on the rear spindle is just on the surface, and easily brushes off.

The corrosion on the engine is a common problem, and more serious. The front cover of mine is very bad, but I'm getting a new one under warranty when I get round to taking the bike in. Several people have reported this sort of thing.
 
I have similar experience - April 04 bike - 15,000 miles all weather - rust inside rear spindle - serious corrosion around engine/drive shaft coatings.

I got a tad frustrated with Cooper Reading when I reported the problem (along with split seat covers) and turned up at BMW GB HQ on Tuesday. They were surprised but did all the right things - asked about history of bike, what did I use to clean it - etc and took lots of digi photos and said they would be following up. I will post the outcome!
 
cejsmith said:
I've been looking over my bike and the seems to be patches of rust on the bike. For example on the inside of the hollow spinndle that goes thought the back wheel. Also in one or two place under the paint near bolts.

Is this normal?

My bike is a 2004 model and has done over 20000 miles.

The rear wheel spindle looks like stainless steel to me in which case some surface discoloration is normal particularly if used in salty conditions. Stainless is neither totally stainless nor totally rust free - just an awful lot better than mild steel. The discoloration will come off with cleaning and to be fair to BMW it isnt just their problem. You ought to see the stainless on my boat!

Similarly, there is no paint system that is foolproof on ally. Particularly where bolts go through holes. In many ways it would be better if BMW had not painted the ally but polished it and anodised. As is often done on Harley bits. The trouble is that once corrosion starts, it travels under the paint because aluminium oxide is more bulky than aluminium and lifts the paint. And the use of dissimilar metals (ie stainless bolts in ally) sets up a galvanic cell causing corrosion.

If you can get BMW to replace bits, go for it. Just dont expect the new parts to be much better than the old ones.

One good tip is to fit any bolts with Duralac as a thread sealer. I have used it on stainless bolts into ally on my boat and its possible to withdraw the bolts even after a couple of years of salt water immersion. Available from yacht chandlers though I think the principal use is on aircraft. Brilliant stuff.
 
Thanks for the duralac tip Birdseye, my 1200GS is in at the moment for its second replacement front engine cover, and also for corroded engine internals beneath the cover (????) so when I get it back from the dealers I may take one bolt out at a time, apply duralac, and then retorque in place. this should hopefully prevent the galvanic attack from reoccurring.
 
:confused: All this talk of replacement front engine covers is a little worrying. Has anyone had any feedback from BMW about why this is happening or indeed what they are doing about it? Perhaps the problem is having the front of the engine exposed to the elements?

Thus far I haven't had any snags with mine though I suspect that my bike is leading something of a sheltered life.

Pukmeister, I'm going to pop up to Portsdown Hill this Wed at 19:30ish (I promise...). See you there? The first coffee is on me.
 
Hey guys, I've strayed off my 1150 bit of the site, but I'm game to meet as well. Watch out for Micks jawbreaker burger, the "normal" burgers are big enough.
 
Got my bike back late yesterday, gotta say that I ain't too happy with the dealers (who shall remain nameless seeing as this is an open forum) and will be looking elsewhere for service in future as I believe their standards have dropped measurably. Two of my GS riding mates agree with me and are also taking their business elsewhere.

The dealer had re-used the old bolts despite telling me they would use new, have got excess silicone sealant on the cover joint, and had even lost the LH spark plug cover even though it was nothing to do with the warranty work (???) and were expecting me to ride away happy without it. Pretty shoddy service, and you could feel an 'atmosphere' there of apathy and disinterest. They also tried to upload a software update which failed. I'm just glad to get my pride and joy back again.

I'm off to get some duralac and coat the bolt threads in an attempt to stave off a repeat of the paint blistering. Twice is enough.
 
I couldn't get 'duralac' at the chandlers, but I got some "star brite" liquid electrical tape instead. It is supposed to form a protective dielectric coating to seal out moisture and prevent corrosion, and it ain't cheap. I have painted the threads of the 3 small torx screws which screw into the ally cover to hold the plastic alternator belt cover in place. Lets hope this does the trick this time.

http://www.starbrite-europe.com/index_cat_en.htm
 
Stupid question but as they ask about cleaning when it comes to warranty I don't wash mine the dirtier the better! Apart from lights and indicators obviously. I leave the dealer clean it when they work on. What can they say then? You don't clean therefore warranty invalid?
 
I've never been asked about cleaning, though I normally rinse the worst off, use a bike specific cleaner like muck-off or Hein Gerickes own stuff, then rub with a soft car wheel cleaning brush and rinse off well. It then gets blown dry with my garden leaf blower and preserved with WD-40 to displace any final moisture and seal it out.

The corrosion I have suffered has nothing to do with the way I clean my bike, and everything to do with the use of incompatible materials in the presence of moisture. Despite my best efforts, it is inevitable the moisture will creep into the threads between the steel bolts and alloy housing and begin electrolytic action between them.

The bike is designed to go off road, but not to cope with a bit of rain..... :spitfire
 
Pukmeister, good to see that you've got your baby back again. As discussed the other night I don't use SPC as the level of service seems to be patchy at best. How did they expect you to be happy to ride away with a missing spark plug cover?!

Customer service... Seems to be beyond them...

As for the sealant. How can I get hold of some? And how much does it cost?
 
The metal bit around my alternator cover is being replaced next week due to rust under the paint surface...think I'll get some of the Duralac in as well and put it on...should we be using it on any other bits...?
 
ShaunT279 said:
Stupid question but as they ask about cleaning when it comes to warranty I don't wash mine the dirtier the better! Apart from lights and indicators obviously. I leave the dealer clean it when they work on. What can they say then? You don't clean therefore warranty invalid?


That is not the job of your dealer... On the other hand, and due to the amount of money per hour a bmw dealer takes, it is probably the most expensive washing you could get...
And you deserve it :D
 
Lee, I got mine from the Chandlery in Port Solent for £6.90, but there is heaps in the tin so if you want some then borrow mine and save money.
 


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