Sag / preload setting on your aftermarket rear shock?

SpyInTheCamp

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Anyone got some good advice / info on how to set the sag on an aftermarket rear shock (mine is a WP Spin)?

The standard advice seems to be for more 'conventional' bikes etc. If I follow those instructions, the suspension is very hard with reduced travel.

I've backed it off a bit and it feels better now, but I'd like to have a look at doing the proper calculations.

TVM

Kai
 
i follow the advice given me by ron williams, suspension guru at Maxton.

simply back everything off to minimum, then increase as necessary.

works for me :)
 
Sag is really determined by the spring being appropriate for the bike and riders combined weight.

It can be adjusted, to an extent, by altering the preload but in an ideal world you need the correct spring for your weight.

If the sag is spot on then it sounds like the other variables need looking at (I'm assuming you have compression and rebound damping).

I'd not heard the 'set everything at it's softest and work up from there' thing before. Think I'll have a play based on that this weekend; I normally er on having suspension wound up on the hard side so might be interesting.

Andres
 
Thanks. I'll go back to square one and start again.

I followed the WP set up but felt that it really minimised the travel. The shock was set up for me (although I've lost a bit more weight since then) so the spring rate should be OK.

The compression and rebound rates also seemed quite high, so I'll redo the sag and soften the other settings for starters.

TVM

Kai
 
Went back to the WP Owners Manual which suggests that sag rates should be between 5-10mm without rider and 30-40mm with rider. This strikes me as a one size fits all setting for more conventional machines and doesn't take into account the long travel suspension for a GS.

The stiffness has also been commented on by my local BWM shop when the bike was in for its service last week.

I have e-mailed WP for more info on this plus details on the travel that the shock should have and the spring they've put on it.

BTW, some digging around on this side and ADVrider suggests that for Ohlins shocks you need to start with around 60-67mm of sag (presumably with the rider on the bike) given a 200mm travel. If I don't get an answer from WP I may try this setting.

Kai
 
It`s all a bit confusing for me this suspension set up lark. I like the idea of having nice suspension but would like some one to just say set it up like this and it`s right :D
Has anyone had the standard 12GS WP suspension re done to suit or does everyone just buy new bling units :D
 
Went back to the WP Owners Manual which suggests that sag rates should be between 5-10mm without rider and 30-40mm with rider. This strikes me as a one size fits all setting for more conventional machines and doesn't take into account the long travel suspension for a GS.

BTW, some digging around on this side and ADVrider suggests that for Ohlins shocks you need to start with around 60-67mm of sag

A ball park figure that is often quoted for off road bikes is 100mm (with rider). I used this on my old CCM and my current DRZ and it seems about spot on.

So, I reckon the ADVrider settings sound a good compromise between the WP figures (which must be for a sports bike :nenau) and the 100mm dirt bike figures.

Andres
 
why not just ride it and see what needs adjusting?



if you can't tell if it's wrong, what's the point of struggling to get it "right"? :nenau
 
Maxton

I actually got to go to Maxton for a suspension set up on my old GSXR750. It was for an article for RiDE mag. I'd like to add to the back everything off them wind it up idea (though I'm not too sure its quite that simple). The guy at Maxton also pointed out that on a standard set of suspension there isn't much adjustment across most of the range, but then it all comes in near the end. I have to admit I might not have been paying attention properly, as I'm a Biochemist, not a mechanic, but it was something to do with the way the adjuster worked:

It was something like a cone fitting into a funnel. As you tighten it the cone moves into the funnel more, so reducing the gap that the oil has to flow through. He said that on my bike (standard suspsension) for most of the early turns of the adjuster the gap stays too large to have any effect on flow rate. Its only towards the last turn/half a turn that you'll see any effect.

Not sure how the WP will be, probably better, but just wanted to point out that on normal suspension (well Suzuki at least, and I can't think why BMW would be any different) half a turn extra isn't the same all the way throught he settings. At the soft end you'll barely notice it, but at the harder end, it could be too much of a change.

Anyhow you want to take the bike on a circular route (ie a route you can ride again and again with corners that you like), write down the settings, ride the route, then tweak one thing at a time (if you're patient enough), then do the route again and think about how it feels. I quite like the info on this site (http://www.gostar-racing.com/club/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm) for how the bike will feel if its too hard/soft, though remember this is a racer, so you may want more comfort and can put up with a small amount of wallowing.

Anyhow I'm rabbiting now. I only wanted to point out that the dials on most, standard, suspension weren't linear, and now look what dribble I've added.

TobyS
 


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