salt eating my bike

[ladder man]

My 1200gsa 30 year bike new in September has now done 4000 miles,Itry keep it pretty clean but the salt is beating me.Ive got oils lubricants and coatings, but small areas of the rust are appearing, nuts and bolt ends, crash bar joints ,pannier rail clamp joints,ali corrosion on the bmw panniers.
What does every body else do?, Ive resigned myself to just getting on with it and thinking at least Ive been out there using my bike and enjoying some pretty challenging riding conditions, cold too! any tips apreciated.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

acf50

 

[Tuono1961]

I'd look at the ACF50 thread if I were you

 

[cookie]

i'd be rinsing it every time it sees salt before putting it away.


even with acf50.

 

[ladder man]

Thanks for tip, I am already using acf 50 but wish I'd covered bike with it from day one and then not cleaned it!. Most of affected bits are where coating gets rubbed off or wiped away, rinsing bike off properly has not always being possible due frozen pipes,guess Ill just have to stick at it.
cheers for info nice to know others are aware of stuff.

 

[cookie]

rinsing bike off properly has not always being possible due frozen pipes

good point, mine froze too.

fortunately i didn't ride the bike

 

[Stretchamus]

fortunately i didn't ride the bike

+1 heated bubble never seen salt, 7k summer miles and theres still rust

Best regards Stretch

PS if I was going to use it in winter I'd have one of them 1150 heavy tractor like thingys, they look thick enough to stand a bit of rusting

 

[cookie]

i have used mine in previous winters, with very little corrosion, using acf50 + quick rinse.

couldn't be arsed this year. must be getting old

 

[LiquidLAN]

I had a new 12GSA delivered the 1st week of Jan - my best time for keeping it rust free is to leave it in the garage (away from the bags of salt) until the temperature rises and we get at least one good day of rain.

fortunately it was my second one and I knew what to expect... nothing against winter riding, but that's why I've got a 4x4 and a trail bike - both handle icey conditions much better than the BM.


Cookie, the reason you didnt get any corrosion last winter was that everyone ran out of salt early

 

[Bones]

Let it rot. If you have to use it every day in all weathers and just give it a monthly jet wash (me) then it will rot in front of your eyes. My 2006 35K miler no has no paint at all on the front engine cover and there is a bit of corrosion wherever you look. It looks OK from a distance though and is reliable. When it stops being reliable I will buy another one/something else. I park it next to my 2001 Aprilia which I have owned from new and is immaculate, but that is only used in good weather and has only covered 12K miles.

 

[AshR1]

They were even salt spreading on the M4 last night near Maidenhead. It's getting ridiculous, it's not that cold.

 

[Sgt Bilco]

It's worth investing in a stainless steel bolt kit which will stop the thing looking shabby when the OE bolts rust. I think Steptoe is a purveyor of said items.

If you ride all year you just have to accept that you will get some corrosion issues but if you take enough precautions you will be OK.

 

[STUBBS]

rinsing bike off properly has not always being possible due frozen pipes,.

use a watering can or a garden pump weed sprayer

 

[Pukmeister]

Use a watering can or a garden pump weed sprayer

Or a bucket and sponge/cheap loo brush for wheels.

Use cold or tepid water to rinse of salt, never hot water which will dissolve salts into solution then make corrosion worse.

Blow dry with a garden leaf blower if you have one.

Coat liberally with ACF-50 and/or Scottoil FS365, WD40 can also help drive out moisture if you have nothing else to hand.

My last 2004 bike had two front engine covers due to corrosion (until I sussed it - do a search for answers) but the bike was well cared for and still looked as good as new, but it was garaged when not in use. Go figure.

 

[JMC]

I bought a 30 year GS in Sept also, done 3000 miles and both cyl heads are showing signs of corrosion, had it ACF50 treated by 'All year biker' and wash it down every week or so with mild soapy water. Contemplating taking it back to dealer for advice when I get the chance. No final drive or valve issues, superb bike.

 

[DING-DONG]

Buy yourself a crud catcher 40 notes off the bay and will stop the sh1t going up the front of the engine and prevent corrosion.

 

[snerkler]

I just liberally spray mine with Scottoiler FS365. If it's wet and there's salt on the roads I rinse my bike down every time I've ridden it and then re-apply the Scottoiler protector

 

[MarkShelley]

Deja vu, but isn`t it best to apply ACF50 before the salt then not clean the bike until the frosts/salt is over. It works on my old XTZ660. The bike looks awful just before it gets its Spring clean, but always comes up well. The whole idea of the stuff is that it forms a barrier, so why keep removing and replacing? The secret is to apply it very carefully and get it all covered.

 

[NLC]

Buy yourself a crud catcher 40 notes off the bay and will stop the sh1t going up the front of the engine and prevent corrosion.

Or even cheaper Pyramid front fender extender for less than £20

 

[snerkler]

Deja vu, but isn`t it best to apply ACF50 before the salt then not clean the bike until the frosts/salt is over. It works on my old XTZ660. The bike looks awful just before it gets its Spring clean, but always comes up well. The hole idea of the stuff is that it forms a barrier, so why keep removing and replacing? The secret is to apply it very carefully and get it all covered.

Not sure about ACF50, but Scottoiler isn't 'waterproof' so comes off with water, therefore if you've been riding in the rain there's no guarantee that its remained fully protected. The beauty is that all the crap rinses off with the scottoiler really easily. If it's salty nut dry I don't rinse the bike.