Shez1’s take on the northern end of the Western Front Way - with GPX

[shez1]

I did my version of the route last summer on the motorcycle and it took a leisurely 6 days, north to south. The area's around the Somme and Verdun both deserve at least two days. The front was not static, so in some areas like the Somme, my route was very convoluted. It was a very sobering experience but worthwhile.

=======

I have cut this post and thread from the Battlefield section, as people might find it easier.

The Western Front Way

In the largest commemorative project in the world, it has become possible to walk or cycle 1,000 km from the Swiss border of the Vosges to the Channel coast of Belgium, following the course of the stagnated no-mans-land of World War One’s Western Front. It is a project that owes its existence...

www.ukgser.com

Richard

 

[Wapping]

The front was not static

Indeed the front wasn’t static for the full four year duration of the war. That though is not the purpose of the Western Front Way route / memorial. Instead it takes a snapshot of the entire front’s position for extended periods. It is interesting in as much as most Brits tend to concentrate only on the northern most sectors (ie, those where ‘We’ fought) with little to no interest in the more central and southern sectors or, worse, no realisation that there was even even anything south of the Somme.

In a way it is not dissimilar to people ignoring the landings on the Mediterranean coast and the viscous fighting up past Strasbourg in WW2, simply as that was almost exclusively an American (them again) and French affair.

Do you have a map or a GPS track of where you went on your excellent sounding six day jaunt? If so, maybe you could share it here, please. I am sure it would be of help and interest to others. Happy to help, if it helps you.

 

[shez1]

Not sure if the link works but was day 1. I started at the Nieuport Memorial on the coast. Much of the route followed a canal where there is a site with WW1 Trenches, at Dodengan. Slept over in Ypres at the Alliance Hotel. Basic but It had secure parking for a few bikes and pretty central.
Tried to load a photo but it didn't like it.

 

[shez1]

This is the second leg of the route but I was too ambitious and did not complete it all in a day. I stayed two nights in Arras to visit most of the main sites. In Arras be sure to visit the Wellington Tunnels. Best to book the guided tour on line. The Old town of Arras is worth a few hours walk around. Traces of Spanish architecture make it unusual.

en-Visit the Wellington Tunnels - Arras Pays d'Artois Tourisme

www.arraspaysdartois.com

 

[shez1]

The Third Leg was to cover the moving front around the Somme.

In Arras I stayed at a flat via Booking.com
Appartamento Uno Avec Parking Privé Gratuit,
163 Route de Bapaume, Arras. Secure parking for the bike. 15 minute walk to Wellington Tunnels, 25 to the town centre. I was going to stay at the Ibis in Albert, but did the 2nd night in Arras instead.
The Thiepval visitor centre and memorial is of particular note. Here I had a guided tour of the memorial by a retired British Army soldier who was working there for the British government. There were a couple of them on site and worth connecting with.

 

[shez1]

Of particular note was the Caverne du Dragon. Ancient tunnels excavated for their stone. On occasion both the German and French army occupied them simultaneously. Lots of bloody underground battles. This area was where the French army mutinied.

La Caverne du Dragon, Chemin des Dames Museum

On the Chemin des Dames isthmus, at the narrowest point of the plateau, below the front lines, is the Caverne du Dragon, the Chemin des Dame

www.france.fr

The accommodation that night was not worth mentioning! But it is on the route if you must..

I have visited Verdun previously so I had no need to spend more time there, but it is worth at least two days.

Previously in Verdun I stayed at:
La Dragée Hôte, Chambres chez l'habitant.
16 rue Jacques Brel, Verdun, 55100
Via Booking.com He doesn't take credit cards. Good parking for the bike.

 

[Wapping]

For all its relevance to France, I have always found Verdun to be not particularly well served by hotels. I have usually stayed outside the town, up up an hour away sometimes.

 

[shez1]

I should have mentioned that the owner of the Verdun accommodation I mentioned above (La Dragée Hôte) is very knowledgeable about local history and in particular the WW1 sites. He really was a mine of information.....and speaks good English.

 

[Wapping]

Looks like a good trip. Thank you for taking the time to supply the GPX files and hotel details.

 

[shez1]

Last leg. Took two days.

20km SE of Verdun is the Ridge of Eparges (Way point 2). Worth seeing with lots of mine craters, remains of trenches and fortifications.

First World War: Ridge of Éparges

The Battle of Éparges is an exceptional place where the writer Alain Fournier is buried in a famous glass pyramid in the Callone Forest.

www.landofmemory.eu

This part of the front was more static, particularly in the southern more mountainous stretches. There is far less of interest along this section, but good motorcycling. Of note is:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hartmannswillerkopf with a large cemetery and museum.

I have no accommodation to recommend for this leg.

 

[leedude03]

Have been to Verdun a few times and believe me you would need a good week to do it and the surrounding areas justice.

 

[Wapping]

Verdun’s battlefield(s) is indeed a huge area. It’s a mistake that some people make, not realising that armies and movement take up vast areas of land. We see the same thing from time to time in the D-day posts, with some bods not realising that it’s not much short of 100 miles from one end of the beaches to the other.

The new Verdun memorial museum (I visited during Covid) is definitely worth a look. Not least, as it gives a pretty good introduction to the meat grinder events. This thread might help people: https://www.ukgser.com/community/th...d-other-sights-and-sites.340226/#post-5015446