Span adjustable clutch lever wanted

[Santa-2512]

Anyone got an old span adjustable clutch lever that will fit a 2006 GS? knocking around they want to get rid of?

Not the OE one though, thats the one that giving me RSI

Ive got it on the lowest setting, and its still to big a gap to get me small hands round and squeeze

Mart

 

[Bendy toy]

Edit -
Ive just taken a chance on these. Maybe I've just set fire to £15 but hey http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NTB-Gray-...412305?hash=item4ad99b4811:g:jPEAAOSwxH1T2aHm

I have some adjustable levers that I bought used from the UKGSer adverts. Like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R1200...064029?hash=item3f5ac9089d:g:w7QAAOSwuYVWmQCv

The minimum hand span is better but not much and really if the clutch lever started moving any later, it would likely not fully disengage the clutch.

RSI is often caused by problems in lower neck and first rib/collar bone areas. I get issues with a standard computer mouse (wrist pain so have to use it left handed) and I struggle with the bike vibration into my left hand. I have a condition called TOS. Chiropractic definitely helps me but I can't treat myself so it often gets left too long before getting dealt with.

 

[jwpzx9r]

I had these made in Hong Kong levers on my Fireblade and to be honest the were a bargain at the price. I did not buy them for the adjustment though just the fact the looked much better than the standard levers.

 

[Santa-2512]

Edit -
Ive just taken a chance on these. Maybe I've just set fire to £15 but hey http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NTB-Gray-...412305?hash=item4ad99b4811:g:jPEAAOSwxH1T2aHm

I have some adjustable levers that I bought used from the UKGSer adverts. Like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-R1200...064029?hash=item3f5ac9089d:g:w7QAAOSwuYVWmQCv

The minimum hand span is better but not much and really if the clutch lever started moving any later, it would likely not fully disengage the clutch.

RSI is often caused by problems in lower neck and first rib/collar bone areas. I get issues with a standard computer mouse (wrist pain so have to use it left handed) and I struggle with the bike vibration into my left hand. I have a condition called TOS. Chiropractic definitely helps me but I can't treat myself so it often gets left too long before getting dealt with.

You are indeed correct with the RSI bit, mine is a result of a broken neck Normally my LH isnt a problem, my baby V had a clutch so light it was almost non exsistant.

The GS has a very large span for my small hands, so i tend to grab the lever closer to the fulcrum point, this in turn means more force is

required to squeeze the lever, more force = RSI

I'll have a look at the levers above

Mart

 

[Santa-2512]

I had these made in Hong Kong levers on my Fireblade and to be honest the were a bargain at the price. I did not buy them for the adjustment though just the fact the looked much better than the standard levers.

Let me know how you get one with them, i may have to have a punt,

I seem to recall someone bought some, and the were as sloppy as! may need a bush in the bolt hole

Mart

 

[jwpzx9r]

Let me know how you get one with them, i may have to have a punt,

I seem to recall someone bought some, and the were as sloppy as! may need a bush in the bolt hole

Mart

The set I bought for my blade fitted perfectly and there was no lash at all. The were actually really well finished for the price I would say a bargain. I am not buying them for the GS though but Bendy is.

 

[Santa-2512]

Doh
attached to wrong reply lol

Its been a long week !!!


Mart

 

[andeebee]

Edit -
Ive just taken a chance on these.

Bendy, let us know what these are like when they come off the boat. Like previously mentioned, they look better and could be easily bushed up if a bit sloppy.

 

[Mistacat]

I have been using a cheap ebay adjustable clutch lever for several years. CNC machined the quality is very good, I would not be surprised if they came out of the same factory as the expensive ones.
Still not sloppy, only issues are I had to smooth a few edges off for summer glove use. I think this would apply to any machined billet levers.
In the photo the black anodizing has not worn, it is where the edges have been smoothed.
The only real issue was with the little adjustment lever catching the hand guard and moving it.
On position 1 it does not operate the clutch switch properly.
When decelerating and changing down to 2nd and 1st the engine was cutting out, I put this down to all sorts until I studied the GS911 data and found that it tied in with the clutch switch not working properly.
I know this sounds strange but the BMSK relies on this information. I could ride for thousands of miles without a problem as soon as the clutch lever was set to 1 and the switch was not working the problem re- appeared.

 

[Bendy toy]

Interesting stuff about the cutting out.
I have some posh levers (they were when new) like my first eBay example. They don't trigger the clutch switch so I can only start the engine in neutral but I've never had it cutting out on down shifts.

Sent somehow.

 

[Mistacat]

Interesting stuff about the cutting out.
I have some posh levers (they were when new) like my first eBay example. They don't trigger the clutch switch so I can only start the engine in neutral but I've never had it cutting out on down shifts.

Sent somehow.

I think as you are not running lambda sensors and using the PCV to modify the base map. you are probably injecting enough fuel to run the bike on closed throttle deceleration. Hence your bike not cutting out.
A stock bike at idle rpm of 1150 has an injector pulse width of approx 2.4 m/s
On closed throttle deceleration 3500 rpm injector pulse width 0.9 m/s not enough fuel to support combustion. ( to verify this my kit only measures an afr as lean as 22 to 1 . on over run it is off the scale).

 

[Bendy toy]

I had the new levers long before I fitted the PC. The fancy clutch lever affected in-gear engine starting, nothing else. Its no big deal so never bothered to work out a fix.
I get lovely crackly popping on overrun unless the throttle is shut - it's normal
The bike correctly shuts the fuel flow until about 1500 rpm when the idle steppers take over. Revs do the characteristic dip and catch followed by controlled fall to tickover.
After sorting out the coils it hardly ever stalls.
I had a misfire today in really heavy rain - it was PISSING DOWN. The bike ticked over normally and ran fine about 6 hours later. Most likely water in a PCV connector.

Sent somehow.