Stainless fixings

[OTTer]

I know it's been asked before but not recently as far as I can see.
Some of the bolt heads on my 07 GSA have got very crusty and I want to change them to stainless with a kit for the usual culprits. There seem to be a few new suppliers about on fleabag etc. but some appear to wear spurs.....
Has anyone changed theirs recently / any recommendations please?

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

I got mine from http://www.shawstainless.co.uk/ very comprehensive kit.

 

[Martyn H]

Another vote for Chris Shaw; his dad Keith is a gent, & Chris has taken over the mantle.

 

[Axel F]

I can recommend Bristol superbikes only for the timing cover/front engine cover bolts, purchased from there eBay shop £8.99 inc postage. Changed them on my GSA just a precautionary measure. This was last week

 

[Bobbin-Man]

Stainless Steel Torx fitting ...

If you want to keep to the Torx fasteners throughout PTS Fasteners can supply them in stainless. I've bought a couple of sizes so far but I've needed to buy more than I need of each, when I'm done I'll probably divide the rest I don't use into a number of suitable sets and sell them on.

 

[masterman21]

+ 1 For Shaw engineering.
Had kits for 1100 & 1150 . Good service and the kits are well labeled .

 

[Bendy toy]

I use Pugh and Sanders from Burton on Trent but on things like side case frames, plated ferrous are less likely to cause the alloy to corrode and seize the threads. Stainless will also self weld (gall) solved with a ferrous nut on a stainless bolt but the nut plating will go off sooner or later.

 

[OTTer]

I've ordered a set from Shaw's, and will post an amateur's review when they've been fitted. Any suggestions for grease or inhibitor?

 

[Deleted account 190920001]

I used copperease on mine. You must use something as the bolts are completely grease free when you get them. But that's all explained in the instructions he supplies.

 

[Gargy]

Just google local 'fastners' suppliers. Most of them will supply you with whatever you need.

Stainless steel bolts are stamped on the top to determine what type of stainless they are made from. There are lots of different types of Stainless.

A2 = 304 grade............ Enough nickel and chromium to give good corrosion resistance, good for biking... IMHO.
A4 = 316 grade................ This is the same material that surgical implants are made of..... Hips etc.... Higher grade than 304 with even better corrosion resistance.

Hardness rating is up to you, 4.6 is standard, but anything above 8.8 (Which is hard) can be to hard/brittle.

I use 304 grade nuts and bolts at 8.8 hardness................ I've never had any problems with sheering bolts or corrosion.

Also, don't forget if you use copperslip or any such lubricants, reduce the amount of torque required. Don't want to strip any threads.

 

[alanb2]

+ 1 For Shaw engineering.
Had kits for 1100 & 1150 . Good service and the kits are well labeled .

+1 for Shaw's.

 

[OTTer]

Thanks for all the advice so far people, when I use copper slip or whatever, any suggestions on how much to reduce the torque by - 5% 10%?

 

[seadog]

6.87%

 

[Gargy]

Dropping the torque settings is very subjective, as it depends on the size of the bolt, which lubricant your using, how long the thread is etc etc.

Personally from what I've read (and there are many a argument about the subject) I reduce by 10%.

Works for me.........................

 

[AndyW]

I currently have a full stainless steel bolt kit for sale from moto-ap - retails at £35 + £6 p&P
....up for grabs at £30 inc p&p
(yes I know....should post in the For Sale section but my forum subscription has expired....just contacted Paul (BHG) about that ;-)

 

[Bendy toy]

A dollop of gel threadlock under the bolt head may help to reduce alloy corrosion. Def use a low strength grade on the threads. Also ask a boat chandlers for anti fouling paste.

My standard bash plate had an M6 bolt replaced with stainless. The paint has gone over a 20mm area and there is alloy pitting on the top side where it pressed against the mounting brackets. The back end with rubber bungs and ferrous bolts has zero alloy corrosion.

 

[Bendy toy]

A dollop of gel threadlock under the bolt head may help to reduce alloy corrosion. Def use a low strength grade on the threads. Also ask a boat chandlers for anti fouling paste.

My standard bash plate had an M6 bolt replaced with stainless. The paint has gone over a 20mm area and there is alloy pitting on the top side where it pressed against the mounting brackets. The back end with rubber bungs and ferrous bolts has zero alloy corrosion.

 

[AndyW]

Good advice..........applies to any fixings or areas of metal to metal contact where two differing metals are involved, even use of titanium replacement bolts can result in an 'electrolytic' reaction (galvanic corrosion?)