std screen mod ?

[GEOFFREY DEACON]

Traveling back from Bakermans w/end the 100 plus miles, I was buffeted to hell from my wonderwhy screen once to often!!, so off came the screen and I put the std one back on. But pondering on the Idea`s of Tobers mods, and not wanting my screen to tall, I cut the Bottom 1" off my screen and shamfered the edge to aid airflow. Having just come back from a breezy blast on the m/way, I returned with a big grin across my face, Buffet free. I tried the screen in full up position then in half way =no buffeting,(only a slight breeze around the smaller o/e screen,), Tests will continue and maybe I will take the saw to the larger w/lick screen also.???.

 

[Roge]

Can you show som pictures?

 

[gutsi]

I cut the top 2 inches off my standard 1100 GS screen and its now spot on.

There have been some other posts on the subject and after trying a taller screen this has been a much better option.

I'll try and sort some pics out

 

[roadrider]

buffeting

I too got fed up with the blurred vision syndrome from the constant turbulance, so tried a Givi Screen, and it was an improvement, but then I cut the venturer slots in the screen and Hey!!! brilliant, no more buffeting, no wind blast, no nothing, and if I duck slightly down behind the screen it,s near total silence, honest.

John

 

[(RIP) sherpa]

Geoffrey - just out of interest
1 how tall are you?
2 what type of helmet do you use?

I am experimenting with the adventure screen at the mo. and will post my findings soon

Sherpa

 

[GEOFFREY DEACON]

Hi Sherpa, Im 5`8" but sit tall in the seat , Iv tried most things on the site except buying a MRA screen but get flistered on the days when I need to cover distance`s when the dreaded buffeting reappears, (80 mph m/ways etc) I cut the base off to try the extra airflow and it seems to have worked for me,(still testing) ,my std screen got slightly damaged so did`nt mind cutting it, you could cut yours or try Tobers mods, I saw his kit at Bakermans Do and liked his mk 4 unit in black, thought Id try this first,. sorry no photos yet. ps BMW SYSTEM 4 (I know).

 

[BiG DoM]

Spannerman - are you cutting the 1" so that the bottom of the screen is straight ie instead of two different height cut-out for lights? Is this giving more laminar flow or just smother in your opinion?

 

[GEOFFREY DEACON]

BIG DOM, I cut a 1" slice keeping to the curved form of the screen to make it flow better since the h/light cowl beind it is still curved then shamfered the edge to aid better flow also . It lookes like It was made that way apart from the edge.

 

[Wreford Miles]

If like me you cant cut a screen due to incompetance (the last one shatered in my hands when the drill caught) I'd suggest Tobinators.

I had to do a 50 Mile motorway blast last Friday and having been playing with various settings found that the bike settled spot on 5200 rpm which is good.

Why's it good... It just is OK

5200 is maximum Torque, it has another peak at 4200 and a bloody dip at 4600. It use to piss me off that it always settled on the dip (not efficent) and 4200 in top was to slow for big miles cross Europe blast

 

[(RIP) sherpa]

Ok everybody here are MY findings (I'm 6'5" and wear a system 4 evo - which I like by the way!)
I've been experimenting with the Adventure screen - I drilled another set of mounting holes so that it's top sat about 60mm higher and the whole screen sat more upright. This was not a deal better so this afternoon I took the jigsaw to the bottom of a pattern standard screen I'd got hold of. I taped the whole of the bottom of the screen with masking tape and then marked a 30mm line following the contour of the light curve etc.
The jigsaw blade was new so of I went - about half way across the screen cracked upwards so I carried on and it cracked again.
Having drilled the Adventure screen without any problems it was obvious that the perspex BMW use is softer and tougher (something they've got right?)
To hell with it I'll give the standard GS screen a go I thought (how reckless!) - same procedure and 30mm line as above and the jigsaw went through it like butter.
I tidied up the edge with a file and wet & dry and fitted it in the midway position.
Out on the road at 60 -70 mph it is definately the best yet!!!
If you put your left hand (don't use the right one - you'll slow down!!!!!!) on top of the screen you feel smooth are pressure and then drop it down behind the screen you can feel the turbulance.
Having stopped and altered to the low setting I tried again and found that the air right up to the front of my visor and just above it is still (just move your hand around, you'll feel the different air turbulance / pressures)
None of this is scientific but Tobers set ME on the same train of thought as Geoffrey with his comments about turbulance being created by the air behind the screen 'popping'
At the moment it seems to have worked for me as well
Sorry if you got bored reading this but i've tried to cover all aspects.
Sherpa

 

[GEOFFREY DEACON]

Hey great news Sherpa, glad that we both can use the full potential of the bike for a change. your right about the BM quality screen material, cuts up very easily if your careful ,Have also noticed the R/LT Range have very nice fairing scoops beind the screen to aid airflow,?. Does anyone know what a wonderlich screen is made of ??.

 

[Chris G]

from a while ago.....


http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=692&highlight=*screen*

 

[Tobers]

Alternative solutions

Wow - sounds like everyone is busy slicing and dicing their screens. The key thing is to get more air underneath the screen to stop the vaccuum forming. If you can also adjust the tilt of the screen more than standard, it increases the effect.

I couldn't quite face the Dremel and jigsaw activity hence the Tobinators.

By the way, I'm pondering dropping the prices on the standard clear anodised (alloy finish) Tobinators as everyone is buying the black ones and I've got a few clear anodised ones left. If anyone fancies a set for £30 instead of £35 then drop me a personal msg or email to [email protected] mentioning the following promtional code: "Give me one for £30 mate".

Off for my first ride since getting back from hols now. Yippee!

 

[Finbarr]

Interesting...

I hacked my standard GS1150 screen about too - it's great.

I found the best way was to cut the "flip-up" edge off the top of the screen by using a chinagraph pencil to sketch out the line to take.

Essentially, the point near the top of the screen where it begins the curve upwards is where you draw the line. Taper this away towards the edge as you move away from the center. I found the best way to cut it was with a cutting disc for an angle grinder attached to a cordless drill. A thin cutting disc makes short work of the screen and you don't have the overwhelming power of an angle grinder to drop and slice through the dash! Cut with the screen still attached to the bike.

File to smooth, then wet & dry paper to finish, with a rub-down with Autosol for the perfect rounded clear edge. Looks like it came from the factory this way.

Put the screen in it's lowest setting and it's buffet free right up to 120 mph.

The flip-up bit at the top of the stanard screen is causing turbulence (what we pilots refer to as 'rotor') as the air breaks away and rolls over the top in a downward direction of the flip-up due to the lower pressure below. By removing the flip-up, the air can remain more laminar and therefore flows much more smoothly.

My next mod is going to be drilling two 2cm holes with sharp edges directly into the base of the front of the screen near the center, about 5cm up from the lower edge. The key here is not to chamfer the edges, but to leave them crisp and sharp, and not to drill the holes perpendicular to the screen face, but to drill parallel to the airflow.

This will allow air under the screen and reduce the air pressure differential between the bottom and top - which should in turn make the whole thing very smooth indeed.

I'll let you know how I get on...

Cheers,
Finbarr.

 

[evenflow]

Can anyone tell me if the standard screen is polycarbonate or perspex?

I bought a Givi Screen and decided to modify it by repositioning the plastic mounting/adjustment lugs. I found out that its perspex and a real sod to cut and drill.
I have re-drilled the holes so that the screen is lifted higher and twards the rider. Havnt tried it properly yet but will on sat.