stubby levers
- Thread starter frostyuk
- Start date
alcanara
Registered user
Excellent... you are a star.
alcanara
Registered user
sorted the brake lever using stuarts find. basically a 2006 fazer 1000 lever will fit with a little bit of drilling in the recess for the brake plunger. i bought a set of adjustable shorty brake and clutch levers from hongkong on ebay cost about £30 inc postage. (you can buy the brake lever on its own for about £20) the clutch lever doesnt fit (was expecting that) but the lever from the clutch can be used as a spare for the brake lever so thats not too bad or i could sell it on. fits nicely within the guards and the span adjustment improves the comfort!
Hi Frosty.... Do you have the ebay address for the pair of shorties you got?
Yes they do look like the pazzos
Cheers
Stuart
alcanara
Registered user
Cheers
Stuart
Stuart
asv c5 shorty pro clutch lever
I've had a look at the ASV universal shorty lever clutch for this as in the supermoto link earlier and found a few flaws imho though to be honest i am trying a slightly different model.
i've got hold of a c5 series pro with both a regular and short lever and found the following.
So in summary i think that if you wanted to go this route the best option is for a custom cable to fit the lever. I'll measure up the amount of pull on the various levers to see if there is a similar amount available with the asv lever to the oem. I've also heard that the quad version of the lever might give more clearance on the adjuster than the dirt bike version but am waiting for confirmation back from asv on that.
hth
I've had a look at the ASV universal shorty lever clutch for this as in the supermoto link earlier and found a few flaws imho though to be honest i am trying a slightly different model.
i've got hold of a c5 series pro with both a regular and short lever and found the following.
- The cable nipple with the sleeve on the standard cable wont fit in the lever elbow, it does fit without the sleeve and whilst drilling out is an option i'm not convinced its the best idea as it would extend the hole over a step in the elbow.
- The cable nipple trumpet is too thick to fit in the cable recess in the lever elbow so the recess needs widening to get it to seat properly.
- The fulcrum is 25 -26mm as opposed to the oem 30mm shortening the pull, i'm going to measure this as the adjustability and the short lever gives more scope for more movement than the standard lever or the oem i.e. with the shorter lever you can pull back to the bar rather than back to your fingers if you are using a two finger grip.
- the cable ferule on the standard cable is to big to fit the recess on the cable adjuster and the pro model uses a different thread to the oem part so cant be used. the cable adjuster doesnt have enough metal in it to drill out to the required size
- the span adjuster can foul on the switch cluster in some positions.
So in summary i think that if you wanted to go this route the best option is for a custom cable to fit the lever. I'll measure up the amount of pull on the various levers to see if there is a similar amount available with the asv lever to the oem. I've also heard that the quad version of the lever might give more clearance on the adjuster than the dirt bike version but am waiting for confirmation back from asv on that.
hth
.... updated
The oem lever gives between 9 and 11 mm of cable draw dependent on whether i pull to the bar or to my fingers, with the asv adjusted to my span i can get upto 17mm of draw. Now the oem pull i measured at the clutch end it was easier, the asv i measured at the lever end at the end of the cable adjuster with a unloaded cable so there may be some variance introduced there. Also i found that with positioning carefully the adjuster does foul on the contol cluster so that issue is resolved. just leaves me to get a custom cable made up
The oem lever gives between 9 and 11 mm of cable draw dependent on whether i pull to the bar or to my fingers, with the asv adjusted to my span i can get upto 17mm of draw. Now the oem pull i measured at the clutch end it was easier, the asv i measured at the lever end at the end of the cable adjuster with a unloaded cable so there may be some variance introduced there. Also i found that with positioning carefully the adjuster does foul on the contol cluster so that issue is resolved. just leaves me to get a custom cable made up
Had a custom cable made up at Venhill, after much too-ing and fro-ing got it right, the inner (free) cable needs to be 5mm shorter than the standard cable and if you get Venhill to make one the ferrule at the clutch end of the cable is slightly too big to fit in the cable guide on the engine casing (about 0.3mm) so it needs a little rubbing down to slide in nicely. Not ridden since fitting yet as have had some other bits to deal with but initial thoughts are it's a heavier pull than normal (not overly surprising) but no finger mashing.
just to finish this off, the short asv clutch lever is a killer on the fingers and forearm if riding a lot of offroad and feathering the clutch, imho i would not recommend going that way unless you're either very good at not using the clutch, have forearms like popeye or ride mainly on the road, ymmv 
macadamia
Guest
just to finish this off, the short asv clutch lever is a killer on the fingers and forearm if riding a lot of offroad and feathering the clutch, imho i would not recommend going that way unless you're either very good at not using the clutch, have forearms like popeye or ride mainly on the road, ymmv
or have the rekluse clutch...
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