Sump guard bolts sheared in sump.

[Firebird]

Having bashed by 1200 around for a couple of years 2 of the rubber sump guard mounts had split (possibly caused by the crash bars pushing the bash plate backwards as the bars have been bent after numerous offs).

Came to replace the rubber mounts and two of the bolts have sheared in the sump whilst trying to remove them (wonderful design BMW and wonderful material quality).

Have drilled centre holes in both and then attempted to use a stud remover. Now have a broken hardened steel stud remover inside a crap BMW steel bolt inside an ally sump.

Any ideas as to how I can fork this job up even further as I'm all out and there's still a few hours of sunlight left for more muppetry!

Hints on how to get them out or how to attach the guard using tie wraps would be most appreciated.

 

[Timpo]

Post a picture dude so I can see the damage. A few different angles if you can.

Timpo.

 

[karnevil]

IME ACW screw in stud extractors seldom work.If you have bust one in a bolt then I would think you will need a spark erroder and I have no idea who around here has one.A company I worked for in Scarborough had one,and never seen one anyhre else since, we used it for removing broken taps but usually not in anyhing as awkwardly shaped as the bottom of a GS engine.
Sorry for the gloomy news.
Now for some slightly better news.
I have removed broken bolts/taps/extractors in awkward places using a dremmel with a small diamond burr mounted in it,one goes thru quite a few burrs and it takes a lot of time and effort but does work.

There are better stud extractors on the market but the key is always to get the drill exactly down the middle.

I am not sure (writing this as I cannot see your avatar)Where you are but if you are near and all else fails then I am willing to give up my time(Weekend/Evening)to M/C them out for you but even the broken extractor will be a prob for me,but to do that on my machines the enine will have to be out!

ANYONE ELSE READING THIS BEAR ME IN MIND IF YOU NEED THIS KIND OF THING DOING.I CAN ALSO DO HELICOILS SHOULD YOU STRIP OR OTHERWISE DAMAGE A THREAD ETC.

 

[Brian ROSEN]

It is not too clear (to me anyway) whether your sump guard is still on or off; the bolts and nuts holding it on do not go directly into the sump - they go into "mountings" which screw into the sump. It MAY not be as bad as you think - but I am only going from the Haynes manual. It looks as if you could grind off the nuts and then drop the guard - from then on it should be easy!!!! However I would proceed WITH GREAT CAUTION!

 

[Firebird]

Timpo, here's some pics to give you a good laugh.

This is the one with the broken stud extractor in it:

And here's one of the other b'stard. You'll note how BMW make the fixing circular on this one making it even easier to remove. Will try to cut a slot in this one.

I know the hole's not central, but it's not easy on your back with a hand drill in the driveway!

 

[st247]

Are they both the front mounts? If so you might be able to use the front mount of an 08 which is different. It's a bracket that fixes to the cast tube in the sump and the guard bolts to that (if i can remember rightly). The round rubber mount on mine was removed with a pair of mole grips, or you might get away with trying to drive the edge of the disc round wih a hammer and punch/chisel.

 

[Firebird]

Are they both the front mounts?

One front, one back. Both RHS. Will try cutting a slot before I punch the round one.

 

[JPB]

Sheared sump-guard bolts

I had one do exactly the same on me, and I couldn't get a bolt extractor to work at all. In the end it was a couple of hours grovelling on my back drilling the thing out. I started with a small bit and gradually worked up in sizes. Oh the joy when the wretched thing finally disintegrated into tiny shell-like particles! Good luck!

 

[RadioActive]

I had one do exactly the same on me, and I couldn't get a bolt extractor to work at all. In the end it was a couple of hours grovelling on my back drilling the thing out. I started with a small bit and gradually worked up in sizes. Oh the joy when the wretched thing finally disintegrated into tiny shell-like particles! Good luck!

That's how I removed a snapped off fork brace bolt from my 650 - going up by 0.5mm each time. I was really chuffed when I finally managed to uncurl bits of the remaining thread of the bolt

I've never had much luck with stud extractors, not that I try to make a habit of needing to use them

 

[swissrob]

invest in good ez-outs snap on make a range that are the best i have conme across.

for the broken ez-out you could try tapping it in the opposite direction, this normally works on the coarse thread versions but as yours is the fine thread version it might be a bit harder.

 

[Brian ROSEN]

A proper job ?

Lying underneath the bike with a diamond tipped drill is not going to be easy. Have you thought about removng the battery, lying thebike on its side (on a mattress of some sort) and giving yourself a fighting chance of delicate work?

 

[Firebird]

Have you thought about removng the battery, lying thebike on its side (on a mattress of some sort) and giving yourself a fighting chance of delicate work?

Yeah, that was my plan for one evening this week. Do I need to remove the battery? Thought it was a sealed unit?

The reason the rubbers had gone in the first place was because my crash bars, which mount to the bash plate, had become bent. This then applied a force to the rubbers and eventually they went.

Even if I can't solve this problem with the broken bolts I'll buy new bars and they'll hold the bash plate in place. My old ones have saved the bike (and my legs in one case) on so many occasions that they've earned a rest.

That's unless someone wants to collect some scratched and slightly bent Motech engine bars.

 

[Brian ROSEN]

"....Do I need to remove the battery? Thought it was a sealed unit?...." I am not sure abou this - it never occured to me. Anyway, unless you are sure it won't leak acid I don't think it is difficult to remove. Best of luck!!!

 

[Timpo]

Firebird, it is a real shame that your 300 mile away as i would like to have a go at removing these.
Best of luck.
Timpo.

 

[Brian ROSEN]

Help nearby if you are desperate

I note that you live in Brighton. There is a firm, Lambourne and Ridley in the Old Shoreham Road Hove (tel.770303) who carry out this sort of work; They may be expensive, I don't know; my brother (michael Anthony) used to work there about 30 years ago, and he suggested them.

 

[Firebird]

Brian, I appreciate the info. I shall persevere for the moment and see how I get on.

 

[XRM]

Are they both the front mounts? If so you might be able to use the front mount of an 08 which is different.

Had all of the above problems and fitted the parts as per previous post and now fitted on 08 / 09 bikes for "durability".

C11.11.7.695.189 - Bracket
C07.12.9.904.087 - ASA Bolt
B07.12.9.904.072 - ASA Bolt
B07.11.9.905.509 - Screw
C07.11.9.904.025 - Hex nut

Mine is a '54 plate and fitted with no problem. My problem was caused by crash bars bending - replaced tham with Touratech as they are mounted differently.

 

[(RIP) Miff]

Can the sump pan be removed from the engine easily ie. without splitting the cases??
If so, then it might be easier to remove the pan and drill out from "inside" then get the holes welded up.

OR... Weld, or chemical metal a nut onto the old mounting point, then just screw into that to hold the sump guard on.

Have you tried cable/zip ties???

PS. After looking at the pics, I think you can forget the first suggestion.