Surging/Hunting - hesitation at 3.5-4.0k on Adventure

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AdventureCleverly

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I've read the surging threads but can't make out if this is what I'm experiencing. I have a new Adv with 750 on the clock, not yet had its first service, if I roll on the throttle in top gear from 3k revs it hesitates at about 3700 and then picks up again at about 4000. This is accompanied by wild swinging of the tacho needle between 3500 and 5500 until the engine settles again.

Opinions/advice?

Please not a Freitag motoradd!:(
 
AdventureCleverly said:
if I roll on the throttle in top gear from 3k revs it hesitates at about 3700 and then picks up again at about 4000. This is accompanied by wild swinging of the tacho needle between 3500 and 5500 until the engine settles again.
Click to expand...

Mr Cleverly,

IMHO, that is NOT surging. My experience of surging is that it manifests itself in the 2500-3500 rev regime (most noticeable if trying to ride accurately at 30 in 3rd or 40 in 4th). The bike will not 'cruise', always wanting to accelerate or decelerate, causing a rough, surging, feel to the ride. What you're describing sounds far more violent than that, certainly I've no 'flat spots' as you describe, and no swinging needles on the tacho. It's overdue for its service - I'd suggest you get it booked in & put the problem in the lap of the dealer. Please post any news....

HTH

MikeO:)
 
Surging3000-3300

Reply to your surge problems . I have a 1150 GS march 2000 with 17000 on the clock which I have had from new . This year I have fitted a Y and REMUS with a KN filter which helped a lot , but did not remove all of the surging . I have now fitted a TFI box which I bought a the show last week and at last the bike is very smooth. It cost £175 and took about 30 mins to fit but what a difference at last I have a smooth and I think quicker performance and well worth the money. Regards KEVIN
 
Kevin,
Please tell us about your TFI box, what is it designed to do?

thanks Andrew
 
I used to have a 1100R which had a dodgy sidestand cut-out connector, and caused the tacho to swing around and it didn't like accelerating at times. My defect was the same as flicking the kill switch on and off. Hope this helps.

Might also be usefull checking the balance cable between the injectors are seated correctly, as this causes the engine all sorts of problems.
 
TFI Box

Jenks ( Andrew)
Regarding the TFI box . I bought it through Performance Parts .
I had already fitted a Y pipe also REMUS Titainium end can but still had a slight problem with smooth riding at 30 MPH and any steady speeds with 2800-3400 revs . the pipes improved the performance but the chip has smooted out the injection . It is a small electronic box which I have fitted on the airfilte box with 3 wires 2 fit on to the injector wires and 1 to the negative on the battery . you can then tune the injectors your self with the instuctions supplied . or set them back to standard . How the electronics work I am sorry but I dont understand electricsvery well but it works and is simple to fit , also you can remove it and fit it to another bike afterwards if you wanted . I have only had it fitted for a week so it will be interesting to see over time how it works . There is a web site on one of the posts in this list .
regards Kevin
 
Update

Okay, I've just got bak from a 300 mile day, defintiely something up, its going in to SPC next week to get looked at. The problem now seems to be what I would describe as bad fueling when I crack the throttle wide open at lowish revs i.e. below 3k, it then hesitates or lurches a bit as if the choke were on or it was flooding slightly. Hopefully its just the overdue 600 service, I'll post an update once its been looked at.

Thanks for all your advice so far.:beerjug:
 
Update

The beast has been serviced by SPC and they said it was out of balance, but......it still isn't right, on the way back into London on the A3 I carried out the same low revs, high gear, throttle wide open and once again it seemed to bog down, cough, splutter especially around the 5000 mark, a bit like carb icing on my old kwacker 900.

It doesn't feel right at all, thoughts? (other than 'nice test ride SPC!')

:(
 
Hunting/Surging

I have a 02 Adventure with just over 7K on the clock and have found no improvement over my 1100 with reguards to the Hunting/Surging isssue. On my 1100 with 33K on the clock I found the following :

1, They are super senitive to valve clearance adjustment, cable adjustment and throttle body syncronisation.

2, The switch to a single electrode plug of the same heat range, vastley improved the manners of my 1100 in traffic (30/40mph - 2500-3500rpm). Single electrode plugs keep themselves cleaner at lower engine speeds but the trade off is less top end performance (Got this info from a techi at Champion). To prove it to myself I did run them back to back with new OE plugs and he was right.

3, The throttle cable system is flawed in its design when compaired to a rocking bar/lever system as used by most other manufacuters. The cables will throughout their life be changing through stretch & wear so the pull on the butterfly's will rarely be in unison.

4, The by-pass screws on the throttle bodies do not give a linear response, so don't think a 1/4 of a turn on the left will have the same effect on the right. They must be set using vacume signals. On my 1100 I shut them both down and balanced them on the thottle stop screws instead to get a much more stable idle speed set up.

5, I was lucky with my 1100 it had no cat and lambda sensor and thus an open loop engine management system allowing you to set the CO value via a trim pot. Result, it ran better a little richer.

6, Live with it and get some mileage on it. It will be a pain in the ass but things do improve as the miles rack up. The valve train settles down and becomes less of an issue. The throttle cables bed in just as they get to the point the service spec say's they are due for replacment. Ha ha!

7, Watch the syncronisation and the more miles you rack up, the longer it will go between requiring adjustment ( except after replacing the throttle cables as you have to go through it all again). Double Ha Ha!!

8, Bump into a Genie who gives you a decent throttle cable system, a cat free exhaust and a fuel injection system that won't bog the engine down by killing the air flow with a big squirt of fuel at low engine speeds.

What will I do with my Adventure? Keep it, get more miles on it. Try the same spark plugs experiment. Funds permiting get a cat free exhaust and try a make a better throttle cable system. Then try the TFI box or if it does appear the Power Comander from Dynojet.:rolleyes:
 
Hunting/Surging

I have a 02 Adventure with just over 7K on the clock and have found no improvement over my 1100 with reguards to the Hunting/Surging isssue. On my 1100 with 33K on the clock I found the following :

1, They are super senitive to valve clearance adjustment, cable adjustment and throttle body syncronisation.

2, The switch to a single electrode plug of the same heat range, vastley improved the manners of my 1100 in traffic (30/40mph - 2500-3500rpm). Single electrode plugs keep themselves cleaner at lower engine speeds but the trade off is less top end performance (Got this info from a techi at Champion). To prove it to myself I did run them back to back with new OE plugs and he was right.

3, The throttle cable system is flawed in its design when compaired to a rocking bar/lever system as used by most other manufacuters. The cables will throughout their life be changing through stretch & wear so the pull on the butterfly's will rarely be in unison.

4, The by-pass screws on the throttle bodies do not give a linear response, so don't think a 1/4 of a turn on the left will have the same effect on the right. They must be set using vacume signals. On my 1100 I shut them both down and balanced them on the thottle stop screws instead to get a much more stable idle speed set up.

5, I was lucky with my 1100 it had no cat and lambda sensor and thus an open loop engine management system allowing you to set the CO value via a trim pot. Result, it ran better a little richer.

6, Live with it and get some mileage on it. It will be a pain in the ass but things do improve as the miles rack up. The valve train settles down and becomes less of an issue. The throttle cables bed in just as they get to the point the service spec say's they are due for replacment. Ha ha!

7, Watch the syncronisation and the more miles you rack up, the longer it will go between requiring adjustment ( except after replacing the throttle cables as you have to go through it all again). Double Ha Ha!!

8, Bump into a Genie who gives you a decent throttle cable system, a cat free exhaust and a fuel injection system that won't bog the engine down by killing the air flow with a big squirt of fuel at low engine speeds.

What will I do with my Adventure? Keep it, get more miles on it. Try the same spark plugs experiment. Funds permiting get a cat free exhaust and try a make a better throttle cable system. Then try the TFI box or if it does appear the Power Comander from Dynojet.:rolleyes:
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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