Tales from the Emerald Isle.
This tale recounts a few days in Ireland, both in the north and south.
We left on a Thursday morning and back by the following Monday evening.
It was a round trip door to door of c1500miles.
In the group were two 1200GSs and a BMW 1200ST.
On these bikes it was doddle, although I have to say some of the travel in Ireland had a “marmite” feel to it.
But a bit more on that later.
The two GSs left Montrose and met the lad with the ST at Forfar’s MacDonald’s, who had come down from Aberdeen. He had planned the itinerary as he was Irish and knew the lay of the land.
Took the boring route down the main roads to south of Glasgow then cut across from Muirkirk and over to Ayr and then down the coast road to Cairnryan.
First thing to say this coast road is an awful route now, as they have placed average speed cameras on the coast road. This has taken the edge off the fun of that way.
No probs though as we re-thought of a much better way home, for the return journey.
As to this ferry experience nothing to report, all went well in fact quite a relaxed affair.
Arrived at Larne and our first place to get to was our hotel in Mullingar. This was around 360 odd miles for our first day. Question of getting on some motorways to the east of Belfast and pass it by. That was surprisingly easy to do, given time of day etc.
Nothing special about Mullingar other than it would get us well into the south.
The hotel food was awesome.
Take a look at the steak I had, quality and quantity, all for around 15euro.
Next day we headed a bit to the east and through the great bog of Ireland a surprising desolate area with a single road with passing places and then on through the Wicklow Mountains using all the back roads.
Come across these nice unspoilt little villages.
Many had campaigns against Tesco, as they wanted to keep the little shops.
I would say a nice place to cruise on the bikes and some stunning scenery. Ireland is very green, and until you have been there difficult to explain but certainly greener than the UK.
We bypassed Waterford and on down to round the coast to Cork.
The idea was to bypass Cork but for some reason we ended up going through it.
In fact between the three of us we found three different ways to go though it. Lost?
Who Me?
“No I had in control the whole time knew exactly where I was”
Seemed to be the answer 3x!!
Anyway once regrouped we went down the coast to Kinsale.
I think this is where the rich Irish have their holiday homes etc.
Really nice place.
Then as the evening drew in we had to head up to our next hotel at Killarney.
This is now over on the south west side of the country.
This was around 350 miles for the day.
Killarney quite frankly was surreal for me.
I had some idea in my head it was a wee village with the tumbleweed etc.
How did I get this in my head well in part since I had not really done any of the original route planning I had not done any real research / background to the places as I wanted it to be a surprise to myself.
Well “feck me” if you pardon my Irish that I learned. It dawned on me as we approached that this was a bit bigger than a village.
In fact it was hosting the last main horse race meeting in Ireland and as we later found out and some 100,000 people had descended on the place. They reckon there wasn’t a room to be had in a 15-mile radius so just as well we had booked in advance.
As we drove through the main high street around 10 pm it was wall-to-wall with people smashed out their minds on drink, with every shop open and so brightly lit up.
As I said for me it was just surreal.
Anyway we parked up at our hotel, which was just to the north of the town and fortunate for us just across the road was a small pub that was entertaining the locals. Not over the top in terms of numbers and real service with a smile.
Good craique and sing song, just a bit of care with the sherbet shandies as we were up early following morning on a long day out.
After a good night’s sleep and an excellent brekky we were off at the crack of sparrows as we had a long day planned.
Should say and we learned the hard way, it was a bit like Europe, the distances although didn’t seem too far did take a longer average time to drive than we might have here in Scotland. Yes we were stopping periodically but the back roads at times were very narrow and sometimes in need of repair, so a bit of caution was required. All in I would say typically a 35mph average. So for those of you thinking of heading down here something to factor in, certainly not your c50mph average we could easily do here.
But even getting out of town proved a bit easier said than done.
There were no end of the point-to-point racing carts and horses on the move to the race circuit. It was like something out of the Roman Circus Maxima.
All trotting along holding up what traffic there was at that time of the day.
In Ireland a horse has right of way, or at least their riders have that attitude!!
Today’s run was to take in the peninsula that contained the Highlands of Kerry that includes Ireland’s Munro – Carrauntoohil at c1040m.
My contribution to the itinerary was to see there was a place called the Bealach Beime (pronounced Beemah) well we couldn’t miss that as a photo opportunity.
It was just like Scotland.
The actual pass road was very narrow but was worth the visit.
Going in and around this Dingle peninsula fair eats up the mileage.
Off to Dingle itself, for a cream cake and on the return a nice high road which took us to Tralee Bay.
Again was a rather narrow and somewhat precarious at parts.
This was my only time I had a bit of a moment. It happened when I had an altercation with a car driver coming up a steep section of the road. She expected me to somehow reverse back up a 1:8 slope to a passing place about 15 m behind me. Nae chance in fact just trying to balance on the bike was getting dodgy. I could not do anything.
Anyway she was not for moving. So I sat there on the bike and waited. Eventually a large lorry arrived behind me.
Driver gets out and says to me has there been an accident, no says I, the lady in front is expecting me to somehow push my bike back up the this hill.
He stepped back took one look at my bike and me and was in the next minute shouting dog’s abuse through the wifey’s window.
It was actually quite intimidating for her but what was winding him up was he could see another large lorry in the distance coming up the hill, and serious gridlock was now imminent, plus by now there were 4-5 cars behind my lorry, and two of their drivers were now taking photos of the woman, her car and comments about reporting her to the Garda for her stupidity and incompetence as a driver.
By the way for her there was a large passing place about 10 m behind her, I think seeing the other lorry coming up flashing its lights got her the message.
But seriously stupid and for me was getting a bit out of hand.
In the end no harm done but the wifey was upset yet she fixed the problem in about 30s of taking some simple action. You have to wonder at some people’s thought process at times.
Anyway on my way again and re-grouped. Up around the coast until got to Tarbet for a short ferry across to Killmer, this saves around 100 miles on our journey and avoids a trip into Limerick. We were heading up to a tiny place that was on the coast just off the Aran Islands. A place called Doolin just north of the Cliffs of Moher, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cliffs_of_Moher
Well worth a visit, but we could not get to the visit centre as there had been a spate of suicides with folk throwing themselves off the 700 foot so the Garda were trying to get a grip of the situation.
Beside the place where we stayed was The Burren, a really strange rock landscape, in fact never seen anything like it before.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Burren
This day was about 300 miles but was a long day perhaps 12 hours.
The following day it was now Sunday morning and after breakfast
we loaded up took bike of the centre stand and discovered a nail in my rear tyre, Feck.
No worries use my tin of tyre weld. Still didn’t work.
Ok try another tin of tyre weld that was a bit better.
But not perfect.
Our host suggested I travel c10miles up the road to a fork in the road and turn right to a garage and he would prime them I was on my way to see if they could do anything to help.
Long story short I left ahead of the others who were going to have another cup of tea.
I toodle off miss my turn off and ended up here probably another 25 miles on, I know but go with it.
This now has to be one of the funniest things that could happen to me, and also just shows how helpful people can be.
So I set the scene I am now at the wrong garage-
I was at the air pump about to put some air in, but could see it was leaking out.
As I was about to start the air, this old gent leans over a wall (turns out he was the garage owner) and says
“That gauge is not accurate. I find bikers never have a proper gauge with them for their tyres”
I then said, “well oddly enough I do have an accurate gauge”, which I showed him “ but I have a puncture and no use to me in any case”
He said, “Pop into the garage shop I’m sure they can help you” That was the last I saw of him.
I could not believe my luck, here I am on a Sunday in Ireland and they have a bike tyre repair facility to hand……..Not.
I walked in and there was a young lass behind the counter.
She was a right cheery sort.
I explained I had this puncture and had already tried two tins of tyre weld but the owner had said you might be able to help.
At which point I saw just behind her tins of, yes you have guessed, tyre weld for bikes.
Yes says I. Can I have a tin of that please.
She picks it up, holds it to my face and says, “ Is this what you want? Is this the same stuff you have used twice before?
“Yes” say I.
What followed was stating the obvious but sometimes it needs to be said.
“Well” she says, “ you’re a fecking idiot, this stuff is obviously fecking useless, and you’ll just be wasting your fecking money”
There is me with all my degrees/ diplomas etc etc, and just thought “ye’r fecking so right”
She then promptly puts the tin back on the shelf, comes around to the front of the counter, activates the coffee machine, does me a white coffee, and hands me the cup with a mars bar.
Then back around the counter and is on the phone.
This is about 09:30 in the morning.
Whoever she calls it goes something like this. Bear in mind all I hear is herself-
“Padraic are you out of that pit of yours”
“ Yes I know what the fecking time is”
“Are you fit to drive?”
“ Right then get you’re fecking erse over here right now”
“Why?”
“Why, because we got a fecking tourist here in trouble”
“Yes I know you didn’t fecking know that, but now you fecking do now, so get over here, fecking right now. The man has better things to do with himself than wait on you. He is on his holidays”
“Aye it is the rear tyre, what the feck does it matter what fecking tyre it is, you’re fecking stalling me now. I’ll say no more on the fecking matter, I’ll see you here in 15mins or you’ll answer to me”
Phone goes down, she smiles at me and says her cousin will be here shortly and sort me out.
By now the shop has various customers, all locals now chatting away with her as if nothing unusual going on.
Meantime I step outside and think what fecking planet am I on.
I was not sure what was going to happen next.
Then as promised about 15 mins later this turns up.
The lad took one look and said he could do me a repair. Explained that it could not be considered a permanent repair but it would easily get me through my journey and home. Which as it turned out was exactly what it did do.
He did the job in no time at all, had his own compressor in the van. Told me the one at the garage wasn’t accurate (a déjà vu moment) blows up my tyre and hey presto done.
Then promptly tells me there is no charge as it was important that for me as a tourist I should leave with a good impression off their country. What an amazing attitude.
Needless to say I insisted I give him something, which I did.
Then went into the shop left something for the lady and bought a few goodies for eating later.
No sooner had the lad left than my companions arrive and I recount the tale above.
As to lady behind the counter here she is, and I am annoyed with myself as I cannot recall her name, but can only say many thanks for her assistance.
Customer service par excellence.
Then with our day somewhat messed about and me not wanting to take any extra risks we abandoned our tour of the Galway peninsula, and headed over to our next stop in Ballyclare just north of Belfast. This was just c250miles, fairly straightforward run.
Did notice that we crossed the border on 3-4 occasions as you were aware of the change in road signs from miles to km etc. they must have had their hands full during the troubles on these kind of roads.
We took a taxi from our hotel had a meal that evening at a friend’s house.
Following day we had a wee trip to Carrick Fergus
before down to Belfast for the ferry back to Stranraer.
Having learned from the journey down this time we went back via Glen Luce, Newton Stewart, New Galloway, A702 to Thornhill, then drove down the M74 to get to Moffat and pick up the A701 via Tweedsmuir to Penicuick then over the Forth Bridge, Kinross then through Fife and back roads from Dundee to Montrose. This was around 320 miles.
The A702 and of course the A701 were enjoyable.
Highlights of the trip.
• Long days on the bike on some great roads.
• Stunning scenery
• Fantastic hospitality by the Irish people
• Amazing houses (in fact if I were ever going to build a house I would drive around Ireland taking some photos of houses as there were some amazing styles, ideas etc.)
• Good quality food and beer.
Finally the knowledge that there is still plenty to see and so well worth me planning a tour next year, might take in one of the road races in the North.
Plus now have a proper tyre repair kit in the top box.
This tale recounts a few days in Ireland, both in the north and south.
We left on a Thursday morning and back by the following Monday evening.
It was a round trip door to door of c1500miles.
In the group were two 1200GSs and a BMW 1200ST.
On these bikes it was doddle, although I have to say some of the travel in Ireland had a “marmite” feel to it.
But a bit more on that later.
The two GSs left Montrose and met the lad with the ST at Forfar’s MacDonald’s, who had come down from Aberdeen. He had planned the itinerary as he was Irish and knew the lay of the land.
Took the boring route down the main roads to south of Glasgow then cut across from Muirkirk and over to Ayr and then down the coast road to Cairnryan.
First thing to say this coast road is an awful route now, as they have placed average speed cameras on the coast road. This has taken the edge off the fun of that way.
No probs though as we re-thought of a much better way home, for the return journey.
As to this ferry experience nothing to report, all went well in fact quite a relaxed affair.
Arrived at Larne and our first place to get to was our hotel in Mullingar. This was around 360 odd miles for our first day. Question of getting on some motorways to the east of Belfast and pass it by. That was surprisingly easy to do, given time of day etc.
Nothing special about Mullingar other than it would get us well into the south.
The hotel food was awesome.
Take a look at the steak I had, quality and quantity, all for around 15euro.
Next day we headed a bit to the east and through the great bog of Ireland a surprising desolate area with a single road with passing places and then on through the Wicklow Mountains using all the back roads.
Come across these nice unspoilt little villages.
Many had campaigns against Tesco, as they wanted to keep the little shops.
I would say a nice place to cruise on the bikes and some stunning scenery. Ireland is very green, and until you have been there difficult to explain but certainly greener than the UK.
We bypassed Waterford and on down to round the coast to Cork.
The idea was to bypass Cork but for some reason we ended up going through it.
In fact between the three of us we found three different ways to go though it. Lost?
Who Me?
“No I had in control the whole time knew exactly where I was”
Seemed to be the answer 3x!!
Anyway once regrouped we went down the coast to Kinsale.
I think this is where the rich Irish have their holiday homes etc.
Really nice place.
Then as the evening drew in we had to head up to our next hotel at Killarney.
This is now over on the south west side of the country.
This was around 350 miles for the day.
Killarney quite frankly was surreal for me.
I had some idea in my head it was a wee village with the tumbleweed etc.
How did I get this in my head well in part since I had not really done any of the original route planning I had not done any real research / background to the places as I wanted it to be a surprise to myself.
Well “feck me” if you pardon my Irish that I learned. It dawned on me as we approached that this was a bit bigger than a village.In fact it was hosting the last main horse race meeting in Ireland and as we later found out and some 100,000 people had descended on the place. They reckon there wasn’t a room to be had in a 15-mile radius so just as well we had booked in advance.
As we drove through the main high street around 10 pm it was wall-to-wall with people smashed out their minds on drink, with every shop open and so brightly lit up.
As I said for me it was just surreal.
Anyway we parked up at our hotel, which was just to the north of the town and fortunate for us just across the road was a small pub that was entertaining the locals. Not over the top in terms of numbers and real service with a smile.
Good craique and sing song, just a bit of care with the sherbet shandies as we were up early following morning on a long day out.
After a good night’s sleep and an excellent brekky we were off at the crack of sparrows as we had a long day planned.
Should say and we learned the hard way, it was a bit like Europe, the distances although didn’t seem too far did take a longer average time to drive than we might have here in Scotland. Yes we were stopping periodically but the back roads at times were very narrow and sometimes in need of repair, so a bit of caution was required. All in I would say typically a 35mph average. So for those of you thinking of heading down here something to factor in, certainly not your c50mph average we could easily do here.
But even getting out of town proved a bit easier said than done.
There were no end of the point-to-point racing carts and horses on the move to the race circuit. It was like something out of the Roman Circus Maxima.
All trotting along holding up what traffic there was at that time of the day.
In Ireland a horse has right of way, or at least their riders have that attitude!!
Today’s run was to take in the peninsula that contained the Highlands of Kerry that includes Ireland’s Munro – Carrauntoohil at c1040m.
My contribution to the itinerary was to see there was a place called the Bealach Beime (pronounced Beemah) well we couldn’t miss that as a photo opportunity.
It was just like Scotland.
The actual pass road was very narrow but was worth the visit.
Going in and around this Dingle peninsula fair eats up the mileage.
Off to Dingle itself, for a cream cake and on the return a nice high road which took us to Tralee Bay.
Again was a rather narrow and somewhat precarious at parts.
This was my only time I had a bit of a moment. It happened when I had an altercation with a car driver coming up a steep section of the road. She expected me to somehow reverse back up a 1:8 slope to a passing place about 15 m behind me. Nae chance in fact just trying to balance on the bike was getting dodgy. I could not do anything.
Anyway she was not for moving. So I sat there on the bike and waited. Eventually a large lorry arrived behind me.
Driver gets out and says to me has there been an accident, no says I, the lady in front is expecting me to somehow push my bike back up the this hill.
He stepped back took one look at my bike and me and was in the next minute shouting dog’s abuse through the wifey’s window.
It was actually quite intimidating for her but what was winding him up was he could see another large lorry in the distance coming up the hill, and serious gridlock was now imminent, plus by now there were 4-5 cars behind my lorry, and two of their drivers were now taking photos of the woman, her car and comments about reporting her to the Garda for her stupidity and incompetence as a driver.
By the way for her there was a large passing place about 10 m behind her, I think seeing the other lorry coming up flashing its lights got her the message.
But seriously stupid and for me was getting a bit out of hand.
In the end no harm done but the wifey was upset yet she fixed the problem in about 30s of taking some simple action. You have to wonder at some people’s thought process at times.
Anyway on my way again and re-grouped. Up around the coast until got to Tarbet for a short ferry across to Killmer, this saves around 100 miles on our journey and avoids a trip into Limerick. We were heading up to a tiny place that was on the coast just off the Aran Islands. A place called Doolin just north of the Cliffs of Moher, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cliffs_of_Moher
Well worth a visit, but we could not get to the visit centre as there had been a spate of suicides with folk throwing themselves off the 700 foot so the Garda were trying to get a grip of the situation.
Beside the place where we stayed was The Burren, a really strange rock landscape, in fact never seen anything like it before.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Burren
This day was about 300 miles but was a long day perhaps 12 hours.
The following day it was now Sunday morning and after breakfast
we loaded up took bike of the centre stand and discovered a nail in my rear tyre, Feck.
No worries use my tin of tyre weld. Still didn’t work.
Ok try another tin of tyre weld that was a bit better.
But not perfect.
Our host suggested I travel c10miles up the road to a fork in the road and turn right to a garage and he would prime them I was on my way to see if they could do anything to help.
Long story short I left ahead of the others who were going to have another cup of tea.
I toodle off miss my turn off and ended up here probably another 25 miles on, I know but go with it.
This now has to be one of the funniest things that could happen to me, and also just shows how helpful people can be.
So I set the scene I am now at the wrong garage-
I was at the air pump about to put some air in, but could see it was leaking out.
As I was about to start the air, this old gent leans over a wall (turns out he was the garage owner) and says
“That gauge is not accurate. I find bikers never have a proper gauge with them for their tyres”
I then said, “well oddly enough I do have an accurate gauge”, which I showed him “ but I have a puncture and no use to me in any case”
He said, “Pop into the garage shop I’m sure they can help you” That was the last I saw of him.
I could not believe my luck, here I am on a Sunday in Ireland and they have a bike tyre repair facility to hand……..Not.
I walked in and there was a young lass behind the counter.
She was a right cheery sort.
I explained I had this puncture and had already tried two tins of tyre weld but the owner had said you might be able to help.
At which point I saw just behind her tins of, yes you have guessed, tyre weld for bikes.
Yes says I. Can I have a tin of that please.
She picks it up, holds it to my face and says, “ Is this what you want? Is this the same stuff you have used twice before?
“Yes” say I.
What followed was stating the obvious but sometimes it needs to be said.
“Well” she says, “ you’re a fecking idiot, this stuff is obviously fecking useless, and you’ll just be wasting your fecking money”
There is me with all my degrees/ diplomas etc etc, and just thought “ye’r fecking so right”
She then promptly puts the tin back on the shelf, comes around to the front of the counter, activates the coffee machine, does me a white coffee, and hands me the cup with a mars bar.
Then back around the counter and is on the phone.
This is about 09:30 in the morning.
Whoever she calls it goes something like this. Bear in mind all I hear is herself-
“Padraic are you out of that pit of yours”
“ Yes I know what the fecking time is”
“Are you fit to drive?”
“ Right then get you’re fecking erse over here right now”
“Why?”
“Why, because we got a fecking tourist here in trouble”
“Yes I know you didn’t fecking know that, but now you fecking do now, so get over here, fecking right now. The man has better things to do with himself than wait on you. He is on his holidays”
“Aye it is the rear tyre, what the feck does it matter what fecking tyre it is, you’re fecking stalling me now. I’ll say no more on the fecking matter, I’ll see you here in 15mins or you’ll answer to me”
Phone goes down, she smiles at me and says her cousin will be here shortly and sort me out.
By now the shop has various customers, all locals now chatting away with her as if nothing unusual going on.
Meantime I step outside and think what fecking planet am I on.
I was not sure what was going to happen next.
Then as promised about 15 mins later this turns up.
The lad took one look and said he could do me a repair. Explained that it could not be considered a permanent repair but it would easily get me through my journey and home. Which as it turned out was exactly what it did do.
He did the job in no time at all, had his own compressor in the van. Told me the one at the garage wasn’t accurate (a déjà vu moment) blows up my tyre and hey presto done.
Then promptly tells me there is no charge as it was important that for me as a tourist I should leave with a good impression off their country. What an amazing attitude.
Needless to say I insisted I give him something, which I did.
Then went into the shop left something for the lady and bought a few goodies for eating later.
No sooner had the lad left than my companions arrive and I recount the tale above.
As to lady behind the counter here she is, and I am annoyed with myself as I cannot recall her name, but can only say many thanks for her assistance.
Customer service par excellence.
Then with our day somewhat messed about and me not wanting to take any extra risks we abandoned our tour of the Galway peninsula, and headed over to our next stop in Ballyclare just north of Belfast. This was just c250miles, fairly straightforward run.
Did notice that we crossed the border on 3-4 occasions as you were aware of the change in road signs from miles to km etc. they must have had their hands full during the troubles on these kind of roads.
We took a taxi from our hotel had a meal that evening at a friend’s house.
Following day we had a wee trip to Carrick Fergus
before down to Belfast for the ferry back to Stranraer.
Having learned from the journey down this time we went back via Glen Luce, Newton Stewart, New Galloway, A702 to Thornhill, then drove down the M74 to get to Moffat and pick up the A701 via Tweedsmuir to Penicuick then over the Forth Bridge, Kinross then through Fife and back roads from Dundee to Montrose. This was around 320 miles.
The A702 and of course the A701 were enjoyable.
Highlights of the trip.
• Long days on the bike on some great roads.
• Stunning scenery
• Fantastic hospitality by the Irish people
• Amazing houses (in fact if I were ever going to build a house I would drive around Ireland taking some photos of houses as there were some amazing styles, ideas etc.)
• Good quality food and beer.
Finally the knowledge that there is still plenty to see and so well worth me planning a tour next year, might take in one of the road races in the North.
Plus now have a proper tyre repair kit in the top box.
