Traction control - what's it all about?

[Bones]

The loan bike that I am using at the moment has traction control fitted. I was shown how to select the three settings, sport, something else and off. I asked for it to be left off as I have never had traction issues with my own 12 and logically it will only cut in if I loose traction (which for the 25 years I have been riding is something I instinctively avoid). If it is usefull what is the point of having different settings?

Has anybody that has this option fitted ever felt its effect on the road?

 

[Dragon Master]

No doubt somebody far better informed will be along soon, but IIRC, some Pans (ST1100's) had/have it. Basically it makes sure that you always have traction at the rear (driving) wheel; like if you're a bit quick with the clutch, it will (somehow) reduce the amount of drive going to the rear wheel, and prevent wheel spin. So you can't do doughnuts. Try to do a 'burn out' and you'll just bugger off up the road. I believe it's also very useful in slippery conditions... it is to going as ABS is to stopping.

Dave. (1100 rider sticking his nose in )

 

[Steptoe]

I believe it's also very useful in slippery conditions... )

It'll stop all forward movement in snow or ice ( if your still riding a bike in those conditions) - if your in a car with traction control it's better to turn it off in snow .

Plus it's just something else to go wrong

 

[Dragon Master]

Like I said, someone better informed will be along...

Stops all forward movement on ice or snow? Hmm. Makes sense really; I think it works by introducing clutch slip, so if the wheel is always going to spin, it will introduce infinite clutch slip. So you get nowhere fast. That right, Steptoe?

 

[turbine_2]

More likely it will apply the rear brake or play with the spark / injector output.

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

What it actually does is retard the ignition if the rear wheel breaks traction thus reducing but not cutting power altogether. The other option is to set it for off road where it will allow a certain amount of wheelspin as is often required while riding off road. It has no connection to the clutch.

 

[turbine_2]

Beat me to it on the update.

 

[Steptoe]

The same effect as using ABS off road - you never stop when you use the brakes

 

[Voyager61]

What it actually does is retard the ignition if the rear wheel breaks traction thus reducing but not cutting power altogether. The other option is to set it for off road where it will allow a certain amount of wheelspin as is often required while riding off road. It has no connection to the clutch.

Yup!

I have it. It works.

 

[Steptoe]

I have it. It works.

How do you ever notice on a BMW

 

[kbada]

'if your in a car with traction control it's better to turn it off in snow'

BLOODY 'ELL - oops, did'nt mean to shout - when I lived in blighty, many years ago - people left the road after 6 or 7 snowflakes - but no traction control then. Now, after lots of investment and development, we are advised to turn it off - over here where we still get some snow at least, the government has launched the thought that ALL cars be fitted with ESP, traction control call it what you will - not everybody can drive, and not that many of those that think they can

Turn it off by all means if fun is your aim, leave it on if (my) safety is your priority......I'll get me coat

 

[cookie]

isn't it abs you're meant to turn off in snow?

 

[Phil Clarke]

My cage has ABS and ESP (anti skid bodge) the ABS is a nightmare on ice - you just loose all braking! As you can't turn it off I resort to the time honoured method of cadence braking (ie pedal pumping). The ESP has a crude traction control by applying brakes to any wheel which spins. Its quite handy but if you abuse it (like driving up my pals snow covered farm track) you get a rather bad smell of burning brakes. Technology eh?

 

[Gizmo]

Traction Control /ABS

The same effect as using ABS off road - you never stop when you use the brakes

ABS switches off once a minimum speed has been achieved, otherwise theoretically we would never come to a halt.(especially on slippery surfaces!!)

The extended braking distance on low grip surfaces is precisely because the ABS is doing what it is designed to do,preventing wheel lock up by automatically applying the cadence braking mentioned elsewhere in this thread.
Whether you think an automated system controlled by a microprocessor is better than an experienced driver is a matter of opinion and many a pint has has been lowered while discussing this proposition

Traction control uses the wheel ABS sensors to detect increasing Hz signals and does a differential comparison to detect wheel slip. ( Hence the difficulty in pulling a wheelie with Traction control switched on). The response can be to apply brakes, retard ignition, reduce fuelling or any combination of these three depending on the sophistication of the system.

Thats my contribution to the debate, cheers

Thats my contribution to the debate

 

[terayon]

Bones- think we need to clarify this. Are you asking about ASC (traction control) or ESA (suspension adjustment)

1. ASC is Anti Slip Control. It's designed to work in conjunction with abs where if the rear wheel starts to slide it cuts the power to help in regaining control. It has 2 settings on or off

2. ESA is Electronic Suspension Adjustment. It does the job you used to have to do when carrying different loads. It firstly adjusts the preload when you are stationary by selecting Solo, pillion or luggage/offroad in the case of the GS. Then when moving it can adjust the rebound damping. On my RT is is comfort, normal or sport. I think on the GS it has 4 settings

 

[Bones]

Bones- think we need to clarify this. Are you asking about ASC (traction control) or ESA (suspension adjustment)

1. ASC is Anti Slip Control. It's designed to work in conjunction with abs where if the rear wheel starts to slide it cuts the power to help in regaining control. It has 2 settings on or off

2. ESA is Electronic Suspension Adjustment. It does the job you used to have to do when carrying different loads. It firstly adjusts the preload when you are stationary by selecting Solo, pillion or luggage/offroad in the case of the GS. Then when moving it can adjust the rebound damping. On my RT is is comfort, normal or sport. I think on the GS it has 4 settings

I am asking about ASC. I'm sure the salesman (what do they know eh) showed me three settings - sport, off road (I think) and off. The loaner is an 07 GS so no ESA. I 'spose I should be riding around with it on the sport setting 'just in case'. I was just wondering wether anybody had noticed the system cutting in when they had lost traction.

I have noticed the rear begin to slide a little on my own bike when riding in slippery conditions when I do the instinctive back off the throttle and lift the bike. Presumably this is when the ASC would cut in, but do you still feel the initial slide? If so the rider would back off the throttle anyway.

 

[terayon]

I've had the ASC cut in on my RT, yes you do still feel the slide, but mine was on diesel where my rear wheel slid about 3 feet to the side on a left hand bend coming off a round about. Don't know if the asc would have been of any use as i shut the throttle down instantly anyway.

 

[Bones]

So would I be foolish (considering it is a loan bike) to set the ASC to sport mode and then attempt to ride around a wet roundabout on full throttle?

Anyone tried this on ASC equiped bike?

 

[Devon]

I have ASC on my 07. It has: road (no wheelspin), off road (some wheelspin) and totally off settings (as per m/c without ASC). I can't really see it has much use for an experienced rider on a m/c with the power of my 1200 GS.
I was hoping see a test comparing a standard m/c against an ASC equipped bike but I haven't come across an objective test yet.
I don't think I would spec it again and if anyone wanted my opinion, I would suggest putting the money towards an off road training course instead.
That said, it costs very little in comparison to the price of the bike and it will probably help when I eventually want to sell the bike.
I guess an inexperianced rider could benefit in that it would not allow the throttle to give full power in a panic situation.

 

[GSmonkey]

IMHO its a bag of crap. Keeps going off if you hit a pot hole, road hump, etc. etc. My reaction when faced with such is to gas it slightly to take the load off the front suspension - if you do this the ASC activates and you get a nice display of flashing lights and the bike lurching all over the place.

Does restrict power stopping wheelies and moderate sliding round corners in shitty conditions - hence robbing you of feedback from the road. I always switch the bugger off when I remember. It spoils a good ride.

There are people who think its the dogs bollocks. I just think its a dogs breakfast. I'd probably have welcomed it on my previous bike (175bhp, 165kg gixxer), but its a bit OTT on the GS.

If you know how to ride a bike, don't bother with it.