Trying to remove the clutch bleeder valve - any thoughts?

[Green Boy]

2004 1150gsa

Hi all,

The grub screw rounded off in the black bleed valve and so have got a replacement unit but am trying to remove the orignal but it doesn't want to shift. I don't want to 'over encourage' it as were as I understand it's only supposed to be tightened to about. I've tried penetrating oil and left it for a while but to no avail.

As it is the original, does anyone know if the factory fits them with loctite as if so, I'll get out the heat gun this evening.

Any thoughts much appreciated.

 

[Timolgra]

Yes try some heat but replace it all with a bleed valve that fits your front brake to save pissing about next time.

 

[Grizzly]

If It's a Problem............

I'm sure it's almost as easy to bleed the clutch using the hose union nut where it screws into the body with the damaged grub screw in it?

Cheers......................Grizzly

 

[cookie]

i've just taken one off this afternoon. it was, as always, on 'kin tight with loctite.

 

[Green Boy]

I'm sure it's almost as easy to bleed the clutch using the hose union nut where it screws into the body with the damaged grub screw in it?

Cheers......................Grizzly

Yes exactly my thought - I just need to shift it now

As it happens I've got one of those bleed nipples from Motorworks to replace it with so will break out the heat gun and give it some more encouragement in the next few days.

Thanks all - much appreciated.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Before you go for the heat, try forcing in a larger torx wrench. The bloody grub screw is aluminium IRC....so should be ready to wedge it in there

 

[cookie]

i've just taken one off this afternoon. it was, as always, on 'kin tight with loctite.

i am talking about the whole ball valve thing here, not the grub screw. i was doing as timolgra suggested and replacing it with a std. bleed nipple.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Ah. Missed that. Had the same problem with the one on my front calipers. I did as tom suggests and fitted a regular valve. But that doesn't help you much!

I guess my thoughts on heat are the rubber hose. Can be a bad combination! The whole unit is ali so it's likely to get chewed up whatever you do. ..

 

[Steptoe]

Dip the clutch bleeder valve in a cup of boiling water before you attempt to undo it.

Same applies if you're going to undo the grub screw, before you round it off

 

[Timolgra]

Dip the clutch bleeder valve in a cup of boiling water before you attempt to undo it.

Same applies if you're going to undo the grub screw, before you round it off

I've heard the tea at your place is dodgy

 

[Deleted account 220427001]

use boiling hot water on it expand the casing a little

 

[Green Boy]

The conclusion of this mini saga involved boiling water, a heat gun and some robust spanner action. Pleased to say that the problem is solved - thanks all!

 

[sykospain]

Success then - as Chris Harris so eloquently says in his Facebook / Smugmug video on the subject: "The assholes at the factory put red Loctite on the threads of that effing valve, which is only ever used once during assembly to rapid-load the clutch hydraulics backwards from the slave up to the master cylinder. Heat it up, don't melt the hose, remove it and replace it with a regular Speed Bleeder."

I notice from the German DVD dealer manual for the 6-speed bikes that this accursed black thingie is actually translated as a "factory chunk". So always chuck the chunk and replace it with an SB so you can easily top up or change the DOT4 at regular intervals....like you do with the brakes.