Spanish Bob
Guest
ktmnate said:
looks good - are the forks holding up especially without a better brace?
looks good - are the forks holding up especially without a better brace?
Frank Warner
Registered user
Comments from me - with a standard (except for the ware and mud) R80G/S and a very well modified K75G/S.
Front shocks -
Nothing will beat a good pair of upside down shocks. You will need to change the wheel as the axcel size is larger than the bm one. However the upside down shock will reduce your steering lock. And cost.
Fitting shocks from other bikes .. be carefull that the weight of the bm does not brake the tube! Most other bikes don't carry the weight of the bm. Check strength.
Fork Brace
Always a good idea. Particularly with a heavy bike. Even with a brace the standard R80G/S forks flex with braking .. standard brakes even!
Front brakes
A 4 pot one will do. The 6 pot one I have lacks feel in the dirt... and as pointed out is high cost for running. If you need more brakes with a 4 pot get a larger diameter disk.
Front shocks -
Nothing will beat a good pair of upside down shocks. You will need to change the wheel as the axcel size is larger than the bm one. However the upside down shock will reduce your steering lock. And cost.
Fitting shocks from other bikes .. be carefull that the weight of the bm does not brake the tube! Most other bikes don't carry the weight of the bm. Check strength.
Fork Brace
Always a good idea. Particularly with a heavy bike. Even with a brace the standard R80G/S forks flex with braking .. standard brakes even!
Front brakes
A 4 pot one will do. The 6 pot one I have lacks feel in the dirt... and as pointed out is high cost for running. If you need more brakes with a 4 pot get a larger diameter disk.
Spanish Bob
Guest
Thanks Frank
can you post a picture of the K75G/S as I have never seen one. I guess I´ll just have to try a fork brace then!
bob
can you post a picture of the K75G/S as I have never seen one. I guess I´ll just have to try a fork brace then!
bob
judge
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Spanish Bob
Guest
yep what with family and work my late night drinking and internet sessions are getting later and shorter. Im a martyr Iam.
Frank Warner
Registered user
I've some photos of the french one that DNF in a PD race somewheres ..
You also find some old (and odd) thoughts on modifying the K75...
If you fell like a late night read ...
http://www.ozmoto.com.au/russ01.html is a shortened write up by Russ of a trip I did in August.. no photos here of the K75 but some of a Yam ten, R80G/s and a klr ... don't know who selected the pickyies ...
You also find some old (and odd) thoughts on modifying the K75...
If you fell like a late night read ...
http://www.ozmoto.com.au/russ01.html is a shortened write up by Russ of a trip I did in August.. no photos here of the K75 but some of a Yam ten, R80G/s and a klr ... don't know who selected the pickyies ...
mavis cruet
Registered user
wot you really want is the front end of the ktm lc8...............
Howard Millichap
Registered user
mavis cruet said:
Or an Aprilia Caponord. 50mm USD's.
Spanish Bob
Guest
mavis cruet said:
yeah and the back end as well patched together with the middle bit!
Paul Rochdale
Registered user
An old thread, I know, but it saves me puting it on my re-build thread. I've got a K1100 front brake caliper which (along with the rest of the bike) I am rebuilding. The rebuild kit arrived today from Motorworks and the new ceramic pistons are quite different to my originals. Have a look at BRA31631 on the Motorworks website.
The 'old' pistons resembled saucepans with hollow backs; the new ones resemble mini 'drums' with the backs filled in and with a small dot on the back. My guess is that these are the same diameters (there are two different diameters of pistons in the calliper) and the solid backs means less brake fluid in the actual caliper.
There is no sign of the small O-ring in the repair kit either.
I know I can phone them on Monday but many of you will have carried this brake mod out and may not be aware of the difference. Have a look at their website please.
The 'old' pistons resembled saucepans with hollow backs; the new ones resemble mini 'drums' with the backs filled in and with a small dot on the back. My guess is that these are the same diameters (there are two different diameters of pistons in the calliper) and the solid backs means less brake fluid in the actual caliper.
There is no sign of the small O-ring in the repair kit either.
I know I can phone them on Monday but many of you will have carried this brake mod out and may not be aware of the difference. Have a look at their website please.
Hallo ,
I have a set of 4 pot brembos with the spliter if you wanted to fit them both or I can sell you just one they bolt strieght on to the original fork leg 100% fiting no off set pads are licke new , one works ok on the original 13mm master cylinder but up grading to a 15 or 16mm is the best you can du ! if you have a early GS with the basic switch gear then fit a radie pump on their !!! WP or wilber springs and you have a totally diferent bicke
I have a set of 4 pot brembos with the spliter if you wanted to fit them both or I can sell you just one they bolt strieght on to the original fork leg 100% fiting no off set pads are licke new , one works ok on the original 13mm master cylinder but up grading to a 15 or 16mm is the best you can du ! if you have a early GS with the basic switch gear then fit a radie pump on their !!! WP or wilber springs and you have a totally diferent bicke
Beemerboff
Registered user
Just a few observations no-one seems to have touched on.
ahutcheon
Registered user
Doesn't the closed face of the original pistons go into the calliper? So the new pistons have the "hole" filled in where the piston bears against the back of the pad? I think later (1150) BMW brakes have a plastic "front" like that.
Disclaimer: I might be talking out of my arse, it's been a while since I took brakes apart and they weren't on a K bike.
Beemerboff
Registered user
Just bolting on hardware may not be the answer - it all has to work together.
Getting the smallest Master cylinder you can find is important, and is the easiest and cheapest way to improve power and feel - and forget about increased lever travel, you wont notice the tiny difference after the first pull.
I have a Tokico six pot on the GS but it isnt much of an improvement over the OEM large twin piston Brembo as the MC ratio is just about the same
Fitting good pads and matching the pads to the disk makes a huge difference. On my G/S the OEM small twin piston Brembo and EBC HH pads work much better than the K bike four pot and OEM pads. The disk is a 320 MAP and the adaptor with the twin pot also gives a better wipe pattern than the adaptor with the four pot.
If you use a decent brake specialist for your hoses he will have the latest technology rubber hose which is actually stiffer than poly tube covered with a braided SS sheath which adds nothing to the stiffness of the poly inner. Cost will be about half too.
The GS forks are plenty stiff and I didnt notice much difference with the SJ lower brace. ( Unlike the G/S which needs a billet upper and a tubular lower to control the visible flex) but the compression and rebound damping needs sorting.
I have the HPN inserts in mine with adjustable damping and I run with around 80% of the available rebound and 20% of the compression. So the advice for heavier oil in the rebound side makes sense, but I dont think the compression needs upgrading.
The inserts are NLA, but the springs still are, but from memory they give me 55mm rider sag which is softer than stock so they may not be what you are looking for.
But the best improvement you can make to the forks is to fit a decent rear shock with a spring which matches the fork springs - the #80/450 lb spring in an Ohlins matches the HPN insert springs and damping just perfectly and you have the Ohlins magic carpet both ends.
Getting the smallest Master cylinder you can find is important, and is the easiest and cheapest way to improve power and feel - and forget about increased lever travel, you wont notice the tiny difference after the first pull.
I have a Tokico six pot on the GS but it isnt much of an improvement over the OEM large twin piston Brembo as the MC ratio is just about the same
Fitting good pads and matching the pads to the disk makes a huge difference. On my G/S the OEM small twin piston Brembo and EBC HH pads work much better than the K bike four pot and OEM pads. The disk is a 320 MAP and the adaptor with the twin pot also gives a better wipe pattern than the adaptor with the four pot.
If you use a decent brake specialist for your hoses he will have the latest technology rubber hose which is actually stiffer than poly tube covered with a braided SS sheath which adds nothing to the stiffness of the poly inner. Cost will be about half too.
The GS forks are plenty stiff and I didnt notice much difference with the SJ lower brace. ( Unlike the G/S which needs a billet upper and a tubular lower to control the visible flex) but the compression and rebound damping needs sorting.
I have the HPN inserts in mine with adjustable damping and I run with around 80% of the available rebound and 20% of the compression. So the advice for heavier oil in the rebound side makes sense, but I dont think the compression needs upgrading.
The inserts are NLA, but the springs still are, but from memory they give me 55mm rider sag which is softer than stock so they may not be what you are looking for.
But the best improvement you can make to the forks is to fit a decent rear shock with a spring which matches the fork springs - the #80/450 lb spring in an Ohlins matches the HPN insert springs and damping just perfectly and you have the Ohlins magic carpet both ends.
What is fully loaded? One person and camping gear? If so that's your weight plus... How much? 30kg?
I would say, fork brace, progressive front springs, standard oil unless you are a fatty, new brake lines, be they rubber or SS, 320 mm disk, 4 pot caliper, new rear shock - Ohlins/Wilbers.
Last thing is to set up the sag correctly so its not dragging its arse.
Paul Rochdale
Registered user
Right. I telephoned Motorworks this morning and discovered that the caliper pistons for the K1100 caliper original come with the back of the pistons covered by a ceramic disc, and that as this disc is fragile, it can often break then the piston is removed. Hence all of my pistons I took out of the Brembo caliper were bucket-shaped yet the new ones are drum shaped.
I have no idea what purpose these little discs have as the front brake worked well enough (but not brilliantly) like that.
I must take an image of the two as clearly not many people understand what I am talking about.
I have no idea what purpose these little discs have as the front brake worked well enough (but not brilliantly) like that.
I must take an image of the two as clearly not many people understand what I am talking about.
Paul Rochdale
Registered user
Well what a strange day. I received a couple of small parvels from Motorworks who have (in error) sent me TWO gearbox gaiters plus the overhaul kit for the master cylinder. I am going to have a good front brake even if it kills me.
Motorworks now supply a slightly oversize gearbox gaiter which is easier to fit. In fact I think the rubber is a little thinner which makes it very difficult to fit rather than impossible. 1 1/2hrs later (Jeez!) it was in place.
Next the Bevel drive. Well that was impossible. I even had the central heating man around who was once a motorbike mechanic and try as we might, we just couldn't get the male and female splines to engage. After two frustrating hours I put everything away and went to phone Jim Cray. Jim tells me that this is one of the most frequent problems from Airhead owners. Half the problem is at the Bevel Drive is heavy and one needs two pairs of hands. He tells me that the technique is to fit a couple of wheel bolts in the bevel drive to help turn the male splines (already done that) and to fit the torque arm bolt. This then will allow me to pivot the bevel drive around the torque arm bolt and line the male and female splines.. Then it's a matter, he says, of gently jiggling the female splined UJ with a screw driver and turning the wheel nuts. It should take between zero and five minutes (he said). I will go back to it tomorrow.
Motorworks now supply a slightly oversize gearbox gaiter which is easier to fit. In fact I think the rubber is a little thinner which makes it very difficult to fit rather than impossible. 1 1/2hrs later (Jeez!) it was in place.
Next the Bevel drive. Well that was impossible. I even had the central heating man around who was once a motorbike mechanic and try as we might, we just couldn't get the male and female splines to engage. After two frustrating hours I put everything away and went to phone Jim Cray. Jim tells me that this is one of the most frequent problems from Airhead owners. Half the problem is at the Bevel Drive is heavy and one needs two pairs of hands. He tells me that the technique is to fit a couple of wheel bolts in the bevel drive to help turn the male splines (already done that) and to fit the torque arm bolt. This then will allow me to pivot the bevel drive around the torque arm bolt and line the male and female splines.. Then it's a matter, he says, of gently jiggling the female splined UJ with a screw driver and turning the wheel nuts. It should take between zero and five minutes (he said). I will go back to it tomorrow.
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