Very small weep on rear brake cam of my R80G/S

Kenny

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Just a bit lazy here. About one drip gear oil a day comes from the rear brake cam spindle on my 1981 R80G/S. I don't intend to do
the repair ( just a rubber '0' ring ) just yet as part is 40p + £4 odd postage ! I'll order when needing something else online.
Just asking if it is just the single rubber '0' ring on a G/S or ( as per manuals ) there could be about four of the buggers !!
Anyone done one recently just so I know what to order as and when?
 

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Apologies for hijacking the thread..

@mikeyboy , I have an 84 ST with the same problem..

Does the inner cover of the FD need to be machined for the tube or is there a bush in there as well?

Clymer and Haynes aren't very clear and I don't want to start something that I wont be able to finish in one sitting :) ..
 
Try just replacing the two 10mm X 2mm '0' rings first.Worked for me. 👍
:) worked for all of about 500 miles, then back to weep city!
I even bout the correct BMW teeny tiny orings!
I think the bush is a little oval..
 
Apologies for hijacking the thread..

@mikeyboy , I have an 84 ST with the same problem..

Does the inner cover of the FD need to be machined for the tube or is there a bush in there as well?

Clymer and Haynes aren't very clear and I don't want to start something that I wont be able to finish in one sitting :) ..
Should be a bush in the cover and another in the main casing,both need to be removed.
The tube from motorworks is not a particularly tight fit in some housings,I normally use a bit of bearing fit and also have a press piece to expand the tube at both ends,effectively riveting it in place

It’s obviously up to the individual as to how the bushes are removed,but I’d recommend splitting the casings so they can be heated and the bushes pushed through on a press.
 
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Should be a bush in the cover and another in the main casing,both need to be removed.
The tube from motorworks is not a particularly tight fit in some housings,I normally use a bit of bearing fit and also have a press piece to expand the tube at both ends,effectively riveting it in place

It’s obviously up to the individual as to how the bushes are removed,but I’d recommend splitting the casings so they can be heated and the bushes pushed through on a press.
Brilliant! Thanks for the advice @mikeyboy
 
I’m certainly not going to argue with Bob,
However is the oil seepage thru the level or would it naturally find its way through due to capillary action and the oil being thrown around dynamically?
I would say if the leak is there with the bike stationary, it is the level. If it only leaks during a run then it's dynamic. Wipe off oil, go for a ride. No leak? It's the level. Leak? it's dynamic. If it is leaking in the morning, it's the level. Hope I haven't made it too complicated! I might try this on mine.
 
I put 9X3 O rings in mine. They need care and some slippery grease to get them in. The 10x2 popped in too lightly for me and freely rotated on the shaft. Beware of chinese undersize rings also. Not 1.5 or 2mm, somewhere in between.
 
I bought the bushes, split the drive and gave the job to an engineer to fit and ream to size. He threw them in the bin and made new ones.
 


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