Wapping Wander - From the Thames Barrier to Aldwych, via the City of London

Onwards west from but first a little detour to see the ‘London Stone’ on Cannon Street:

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Then past one of the buildings recording the assorted disasters the area (and the City) has recovered from:

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And then down to cross Upper Thames Street, to walk down Cousin Lane to the river. This takes us past a plaque which records the strong links which existed between the City and Germany, particularly the sea going Hanseatic ports, like Hamburg. Early’ish in WW2 the inhabitants of Hamburg came to the conclusion that they hadn’t been bombed heavily because of the historic link. That conclusion was smashed later:

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Reaching the river by the Banker pub, we turn right to follow the Thames, past where the City’s rubbish is loaded onto barges to be towed away on the high tides to be dumped on Essex:

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Somewhere along the way, we will have walked over one of London’s ‘vanished’ rivers, the Walbrook. It now runs in drains and tunnels under the ground.

On to one of London’s nicest bridges, Southwark:

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Being on the river, we can see the south bank. The white building is the rebuilt Globe Theatre, where Shakespeare had his plays performed, close by the former power station, which now houses the Tate Modern art gallery. Spanning the river to the right. Yiu can just about make out the Millenium Footbridge, better remembered perhaps, as the Wobbly Bridge):

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Passing under Southwark Bridge, the underpass has some pretty good tiles, showing how the bridge was built and views of the old City. The one I really like is the one with the old St Paul’s, a massive church which dominated the Medieval skyline, right through to the mid-17th century, when it was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666:

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To be replaced by Wren’s masterpiece, we are all familiar with today:

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A bit further on brings us to what is the oldest dock in London, long since unused. It is tiny and called, Queenhithe:

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Along with pretty good mosaic, giving a quite nice history of the area:

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To be continued…..
 
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Leaving Queenhithe and still very much in the City of London, we cross over Upper Thames Street again, this time on a footbridge. When the City was rebuilt after the Blitz, there was a plan to connect the buildings by walkways and build over the old alleys, leaving effectively a footpath through the buildings. Several of these footpaths still exist but many were lost to ‘security’ following the IRA bombing campaign. Now it’s all but impossible to enter a City building without a pass of some sort; a shame as it destroys the ‘Open market’ feel that the City enjoyed for years and years.

Looking down from the footbridge, we can see the remains of a former City church, St Mary Somerset. It is (or was) a Wren church, built after the Great Fire but demolished by the Victorians in the late 1800’s.

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We’ll continue north, past reminders that we still in the City and that it is divided into Wards:

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This brings us to the City of London School for Boys, with its very fine City coat of arms. The girls have a sister school.

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The reference to accoat of arms is apt, as just across Queen Victoria Street (still no roads, as we are still in the City) is the College of Arms, dating back to 1485 and in charge of all the nation’s (bar Scotland) heraldry and genealogy, along ‘Being in charge of’ all the great State events. I really should go in one day:

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Both the school and the college have a long and interesting history:


 
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That’s really interesting - thank you much.

I’ve worked in the city and beyond for that 15 years working in construction and tramp a lot of those streets but never get the opportunity to take in the history. Might see if I can join in one of the days.

Barry
 
There is always something new to see. I went on a brief 3.5 mile recce to see if I could tidy up a bit for Doc’s visit and came across the Royal Philatelic Society, a stone throw from Bank.

I wondered to myself if they have an email address or whether they only accept a letter by stamped addressed envelope?
 
Up St Peter’s Hill towards St Paul’s:

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There is always something new to see or that I simply haven’t noticed before.

The Monument, where the Great Fire started is about half a mile away by foot. It is a sort of reminder of how terrible it must have been in the packed narrow streets, the wooden houses burning around them, culminating in the burning of the huge original Medieval St Paul’s:

Pepy’s description (an eye witness account from the X writer of his day) is worth reading, I think, recording how the fire burned from the Sunday, through to the following Friday. It maybe puts some of today’s moans into some kind of perspective. The diary entries for each day mention places and streets we have seen along our wander and are still (just with different spellings) still here today. Pepy’s house and office in Seething Lane is / was about 30 yards of the office I work in today in Mark Lane, mentioned several times in the diary entries.


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A little further along there was a strange group of clearly carved stones, along with a good explanation as to what they are. It is interesting in a way that in 1,000 years Londoners and visitors to London could well be sitting on the same stones. I wonder if Wapping 3025 will be pausing on his / her own wander and thinking back to 2025?

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Musing on the future over, we are nearly at the top of the hill. Past another reminder of the City’s Wards and how residents and workers of the City can vote for their representatives. A colleague of mine is a Freeman of the City of London; he’s asked me if I’d like to be one, too. I am no fan of the Masons (yes, I know it’s very different) but it’s something I might like to do.

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At the top there is a memorial to the fire fighter’s killed in the Blitz, when this part of the City was badly hit. The raid created one of the great wartime photographs (84 years ago, almost to the day) and well before photoshop and the fakes of today:

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At the top of the hill, there is also one of the very good orientation maps. Hopefully you can make out the greyer area of the City of London. I have scribbled in a red line tracing out the route we have taken so far, from the Tower of London (just outside the City) to end (again outside the City) at Aldwych:

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Around to the front of the cathedral, past the fellow painting and signs for the (no doubt) pretty good guided walks:

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To be continued…..
 
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Leaving St Paul’s, it’s a short walk to the modernised Pater Noster square, which you enter through the former (it has been moved) Temple Bar:

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Leaving Pater Noster, you come to the strange little private enclave of Amen Court, just off Amen Corner. I sneaked in, as I have done before, which is a bit naughty. It certainly would be a great place to live, not least as it has the only surviving wall of the former notorious Newgate prison:

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Leaving Amen Court, it’s a short walk up Warwick Lane, past the Livery Hall of the Worshipful Company of Cutlers and the former site of the Royal College of Physicians:

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Now turn left on Newgate Street, to find yourself somewhere you do not want to be standing in the dock, the highest criminal court in the land, the Old Bailey, built near enough on the site of the old Newgate prison:

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To be continued……
 
Temple Bar > the (very little seen) Amen Court > the Worshipful Compsny of Cutlers building > the Old Bailey > Holborn Viaduct > Inns of Court > Fleet Street > Temple Bar Memorial
As a follow on.

This is from the 'estate' I live on.

https://lowewoodmuseum.com/tag/temple-bar/

The Temple Bar was moved before we moved to the estate in 2021

A bit more history.


 
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The Old Bailey behind us, it’s time to walk on to Holborn Viaduct, with its Victorian statues, celebrating their view of what made the United Kingom (and not least, London) great.

But just before, there is more evidence of the new meeting the old:

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Onto the viaduct. The four statues represent: Science, Agriculture, Commerce and Fine Art:

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Here’s the view from the viaduct looking down onto Farringdon Street, with the former large Smithfield meat market (being redeveloped) to the right of the T-junction with Snow Hill and West Smithfield:

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Off the viaduct and into Holborn, still in the City of London. I often forget that many of the south east’s major A roads, all run out from the centre of London, several following the track of the original Roman roads:

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Here’s the entrance to Hatton Garden and London’s ‘jewellery district’:

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Crossing over Holborn Circus (where I watched the taxi, spank the twit on the rental bike, who’d jumped the lights) we enter the slope of New Fetter Lane, home of the Inns of Court and leading down to Fleet Street, starting with the Rolls Buiding (part of the Royal Courts of Justice) and the statue of John Wilkes:

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Here my phone died and with it my camera. I did though finish up by walking along Fleet Street (on the course of another of London’s ‘forgotten’ rivers, the Fleet) past the ‘New’ Temple Bar (and leaving the City of London) and into the Strand, to pass the High Court, the RAF chuch of St Clements Danes and on to Aldwych, past the BBC and the London School of Economics. From there I caught the bus back to the Tower of London and walked back the last quarter of a mile or so to home.

I will wander the last section again, just to fill in the pictures.



 
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Here is, near enough, the route the Wander took. Out eastwards on the DLR to the Tames Barrier, back in the river bus past Greenwich and the Isle of Dogs. Off at the Tower of London, through the lower half of the City of London (I’ll do the north part and all the rest when I do the City churches / livery companies). Down to the river again, then up past St Paul’s, the Old Bailey, Holborn, the Law Courts, Strand and Aldwych.

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It would make a great eight or ten pint pub crawl, starting at the HDQ…..
 
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Here is, near enough, the route the Wander took. Out eastwards on the DLR to the Tames Barrier, back in the river bus past Greenwich and the Isle of Dogs. Off at the Tower of London, through the lower half of the City of London (I’ll do the north part and all the rest when I do the City churches / livery companies). Down to the river again, then up past St Paul’s, the Old Bailey, Holborn, the Law Courts, Strand and Aldwych.

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It would make a great eight or ten pint pub crawl, starting at the HDQ…..
This has been absolutely brilliant and like the rest of this thread....8 or 10 pint pub crawls are much a thing of history for me! :D
 
That is brilliant Richard, so many of the places I remember but you’ve filled in the history and facts. My love of London started with my mother who gave birth to me in the Unmarried Mothers Home in Poplar/Bow, although she was married and worked as a “clippie” on the buses and happened to go into labour whilst working. I worked for ITT Creed as a service engineer on Telex/Teleprinters based in the City in the early 70’s and walked around lots of these areas. I was based in one of the ANZ Banks and often frequent the pubs at strange hours including the markets at Leadenhall and the old Spitalfields Market. There’s something strange about going into the pub at 4:30 am for breakfast and then starting the days work.
I would love to walk this route and take the River Uber or at least part of it sometime. Thanks Richard
 
My love of London started with my mother who gave birth to me in the Unmarried Mothers Home in Poplar/Bow, although she was married and worked as a “clippie” on the buses and happened to go into labour whilst working.

Excellent!

My own mother was born in Holloway….. not, I hasten to add, the women’s prison.

I would love to walk this route and take the River Uber or at least part of it sometime.

Let me know Brian and we can do as much or as little as you like.
 
This has been absolutely brilliant and like the rest of this thread....8 or 10 pint pub crawls are much a thing of history for me! :D

Thank you.

A good swap for your excellent Portuguese wanders.
 
Excellent!

My own mother was born in Holloway….. not, I hasten to add, the women’s prison.



Let me know Brian and we can do as much or as little as you like.
Aaahh the infamous Hollloway Women’s Prison. Ive been in there many times when I was working for Olivetti servicing and repairing the Audit Accounting machines. As a young and a naive 20 something year old I was whistled at and offered all sorts of favours by the inmates. None of which I was brave or stupid enough to accept! The only place scarier than this was the “Colney Hatch Institution” which had all manner of inmates. I remember seeing them set light to a window cleaners ladder when he was up 3 floors. Never seen anyone dismount a ladder so quick.

I will take you up on that offer Richard. At least it will save me dragging my wife around and a couple of pints in the local wont go amiss! Happy New Year.
 


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