Well Here's another fine mess! :-)

[DrFarkoff]

Well as it says, I have a mates 1150 GSA in that won't run and I'd like any further options / pointers you may have

I opened the fuel cap and it's full of water so I drained the tank and mopped out the remnants and approx a litre of water and I drained the pump and changed the fuel filter, I then drained the injector tubes and flushed fresh petrol thru them

and did the same to the injectors with the injectors out of the T bodies

I charged the battery and checked connections and overhauled the starter

I can only get it to start and do a semi fast idle 1200 ~ 1300rpm giving it any throttle makes it stall and die off

So I thought okay it's been lying out so it must have water in the TPS I've swopped on a replacement I have and flushed the connection through with ACF50

It's made no difference So my thinking is that something is wrong with the ECU or Lamda probe

It runs smooth at the fast idle but shutting the throttle or trying to open it kills the bike So I didn't think it was H.E.S.

I can hear the fuel pump charging okay and there is 20 litres of fresh fuel in and no water the fuel
The spray pattern looks okay too "a good mist" about 4 to 5 inches long
New plugs
New fuel filter,
Serviced 2000 miles ago with a full Service and inspection

I have to admit this one has me confused unless he has wrecked the injectors trying repeatedly to start it and forcing water thru them???

BUt it starts and runs if your VERY careful with the throttle openings, So you'd assume that the hall effect sensors should be okay too!

Before someone suggests it is DEFINITELY NOT The Cables both butterflies quadrants are on the stops and both throttles are synchronised

So Anyone anything else that they could suggest?
Do you have Any suggestions?

 

[iftikartaxis]

might sound daft have you checked the stick coils

"Praise th lord and pass the Ammunition"

 

[DrFarkoff]

No Stick coils I should have said it's one of the first GS adventure single sparks

I must actually get a year of Real

 

[GS TRV]

Call Brian at Mototech

 

[DrFarkoff]

Yeh Good Idea Didn't think of Brian I'm not proud

Rang Brian and he's as mystified as I am

I'm going to try and borrow a tank to swop onto the bike and see where that leads me

Having drained and mopped out the tank and changed plugs, fuel filter, air filter, recon'd the starter, and cleaned and treated all the electrical connectors inc the motronic and frame earths that the Concensus it's either the fuel pump or the Hall sensors

 

[Voyager]

You say its been lying out and has got (very) wet.

Could the air filter be wet and therefore blocked ?

Have you tried putting a strobe on each plug in turn when its running to see if you lose the spark as the revs rise ?

It sounds as though its losing the spark or not getting enough air - assuming the fuelling is OK.

It'll be something simple of course


Best of luck.

Bob.

 

[DrFarkoff]

You say its been lying out and has got (very) wet.

Could the air filter be wet and therefore blocked ?

thanks for your input Bob but no I've already changed the filter

 

[DrFarkoff]

I always hate when a thread isn't cleared up and an open verdict remains

The culprit in this case was the Hall effect sensor Doo Dahs

All the other things were incidental and I believe that continually trying to start it with the water in the tank and the continuous grinding over and buggering the starter and the battery

The flattened batttery caused low voltage in the sytem and low voltage usually means higher amperage to maintain power so that burned the sensors out

So a new set of HES cured the problem, I couldn't see how the water could damage the feul pump as it's only purpose in life is to pump fluid of a "similar" viscosity around the fuel system and it hadn't been exposed to air to give it a chance to rust.

And I even shared the knowledge and called Brian and let hiom know the result so now he knows too

 

[motobiker]

little while ago a member stated that faults with the hall effect doo-dah is nearly always due to wiring. might be an idea to see if thats the case and get it fixed and keep as a spare. they're not a cheap item after all.

 

[KMD]

Jaythro, What led up to these faults, had the bike been on it's side in water or just left outside and not started? Is there a case here for running the bike up often in the winter if it's not being used regularly?

 

[Pukmeister]

If you have access to a compressed air line, be sure to blow through the fuel filler cap drain hole and prove it is free of blockages.

Prevention is better than cure:
The hole and associated tubing can get blocked with small particles of crap, preventing rainwater draining and leading to water collecting around the filler cap. Each time you open to refuel, the water enters the fuel tank. Petrol floats on water so you end up filling the tank with water from the bottom up, until it eventually gets pumped into the injectors.

 

[Carl]

If you have access to a compressed air line, be sure to blow through the fuel filler cap drain hole and prove it is free of blockages.

Be careful if you do, I know someone who did just that and blew the pipe off the connection in the tank turning a simple job into a bit of a faff.

 

[Deleted account 240528001]

Hello Jaythro,

Thanks for the text earlier. Appreciated

I know you've solved the problem but from personal experience I'd look for small bubbles on paint surface of tank in areas where water could collect and rot through the metal from the inside. If your friend has a problem with an area that you can push your finger through, my advice would be to replace the tank. Sometimes they get too rotten for proper welding and should a stone hit tank in exact place, fuel will start flying pouring over everything. hard to miss massive amounts of rust really.

I'd also suggest smelling both overflow pipes, whichever one does not smell of petrol (after a ride) is the overflow for the fuel filler cap. It lets water flow out the tube. Clean end of said tube and blow!

Handy list you made there btw.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Pukmiester I have to disagree with you dude IF you're not careful and have a bad blockage and you end up blowing high pressure thru it you end up blowing off the hose insde the tank and that is such a bummer to sort

A length of fine strimmer cord and wd40 or likewise is required 2 or 3 mm od is dead on and you just wiggle and turn it around as you push and most times it will clear

 

[Pukmeister]

Fair point. We unblocked his with a piece of mig welding wire then blew about 20psi through it to prove clear.

I can see how too much air would cause more troubles, sorry to give bad advice.