What should healthy final drive oil look like?

[Sergeant Pluck]

Just put fresh oil in (10 thou since the last change) and there was about 7 mil of swarf on the plug and the oil is a kind of dark green silvery colour. Bikes done 35,000ish. I can't remember, but I'm sure last time I changed it it was still nice and brown. No noticeable rumbling or movement at the back wheel.

Bit paranoid with big trip coming up...

 

[Fanum]

Change it...takes 5 mins.

Stick a saucepan underneath (don't worry, the missus won't mind I promise) undo the fill plug (7mm allen key on top) then the drain plug, let it all run out, replace drain plug, fill to level of hole with EP90, replace fill plug, job done

 

[Sergeant Pluck]

Just did - thats how I know it's all green and funny

 

[Fanum]

Ah, DOH!!

 

[Fanum]

When you say green and silvery, was it as bad as this???

(Noddy's oil, post Princetown fords ride last year.......four bikes had similar sludge in their boxes so we had a mass draining session in the car park )

 

[Sergeant Pluck]

no it's not quite that green!

Looks more like this:

 

[Steptoe]

no it's not quite that green!

Looks more like this:

Thats not a nice colour - a bit worrying before a long trip.
You really should change the bevel oil every 6K max .

 

[Sergeant Pluck]

Bollox.

Looks like I'll be fitting that 'spare' bearing I bought then after all.

Thanks both.

 

[Mouse]

When I did mine for the first time (bike is a 1200 though) it was black and treacle-like, and stank to high heaven. Ironically, despite my loving servicing, the final drive failed about 10,000 miles later

 

[RJW]

Thats not a nice colour - a bit worrying before a long trip.
You really should change the bevel oil every 6K max .

Is this normally done as part of the usual 6k services?

 

[Spout]

Changed mine at 8000 miles and oil was fine. (Home made breather extension working fine)
But there was a bit of black non metallic gunge around the drain plug area. Rubber? Ooooer.

I'll do another change at 2000 miles.

 

[Steptoe]

Is this normally done as part of the usual 6k services?

Not on a BMW service it isn't - it's a 12K mile schedule.

On a steptoe service it gets changed ( i even do my gearbox oil at 6K )

 

[mikst]

Bollox.

Looks like I'll be fitting that 'spare' bearing I bought then after all.

Thanks both.

I have 22000 km on my 1150GS and I have started to feel a small play at the real wheel. I check that with a very good mechanic. He told me that it could be at the wheel or the drive shaft. Normally you need to replace the bearings around 40000 km.

 

[Steptoe]

I check that with a very good mechanic. He told me that it could be at the wheel or the drive shaft. Normally you need to replace the bearings around 40000 km.

Well he can't be that good if he can't tell the difference between the drive shaft paralever bearing or the final drive bearing

it's usually the paralever bearing that MAY need replacing at that sort of mileage, if it's not checked and adjusted. If it's kept adjusted correctly it can last far longer

 

[Gecko]

I'm at 90,000 km still on the original paralever bearing and it still seems OK. (that's given it the kiss of death now hasn't it ... )

 

[mikst]

Well he can't be that good if he can't tell the difference between the drive shaft paralever bearing or the final drive bearing

it's usually the paralever bearing that MAY need replacing at that sort of mileage, if it's not checked and adjusted. If it's kept adjusted correctly it can last far longer

He hasn't seen my bike yet.
Yes, I probably only need to adjust the bearings or do nothing at all due to very small play. We will find that out when I got the time to pay him a visit. I was only surprised to find this at such low milage.

 

[Bronco Billy]

Not on a BMW service it isn't - it's a 12K mile schedule.

On a steptoe service it gets changed ( i even do my gearbox oil at 6K )

Neil,

I know its GL5 spec oil but would you bother with Full synth or mineral..?..