What's the clutch switch Mod'

Theres a micro switch on the clutch lever. When the clutch is pulled, a different engine map is engaged which appears to be richer/less restricted in lower revs in gears 1, 2 and 3, making the bike smoother and pokier.

If you short out this switch you can have that map engagd all the time. Its a bit like an ECU remap for no money.

Check the yamahasupertenere forum for endless detail.
 
Theres a micro switch on the clutch lever. When the clutch is pulled, a different engine map is engaged which appears to be richer/less restricted in lower revs in gears 1, 2 and 3, making the bike smoother and pokier.

If you short out this switch you can have that map engagd all the time. Its a bit like an ECU remap for no money.


Have to ask......why would there be a 'lesser' map in there in the first place, that's overridden by the clutch switch swapping maps? :nenau

EDIT....I'm guessing it's to do with lessening the power/wheel spin factor in hard acceleration through lower gears?
 
It's all to do with emissions apparently.

The bike has traction control so spinning up shouldn't really be a factor, so it's got to do with running it lean to get better emissions and mpg figures.

Both the "touring" and "sport" maps are crippled in the 1st 3 gears. I had mine remapped completely which makes a massive difference and changes the bike for the better. The clutch switch mod is a "poverty remap" and I think you lose the touring/sport options whereas a proper remap keeps those options and just gives you a much better throttle response and more power.

More here: http://www.off-the-road.de/XT-1200-Z/ECU-restriction-removal/
 
The clutch switch mod is a "poverty remap" and I think you lose the touring/sport options whereas a proper remap keeps those options

For the middle classes there is a third option, which is to fit a switch to the handlebar so you can turn the clutch switch mod off and on, although at about £10 it is poor value compared to 20p for afuse to jam in the switch, but a lot less than £400 for a remap - I am still waiting for someone who can do a custom map specific to the bike, especially as I want to run different exhausts.

for those who always think us "modders" are deluded by the Placebo affect I stuck the bike on a dyno, in 3rd gear the bike gained about 25% more power at 40mph. The gains will be bigger in 1st / 2nd, but neglible in 4th and no differnet in 5th and top.

13rdClutchMod.jpg


You really feel the extra grunt / smoothness when coming off roundabouts, overtaking codgers and I would imagine it would be quite horrible on Alpine hairpins with the stock power delivery.
 
as a puzzled engineer how does this work - assuming the switch just monitors the clutch opening and closing how on earth can it affect some gears and not others? if it needed to know the gear would it not get this from the gear display from the dash? I guess its clever somehow - cleverer than me
 
as a puzzled engineer how does this work - assuming the switch just monitors the clutch opening and closing how on earth can it affect some gears and not others? if it needed to know the gear would it not get this from the gear display from the dash? I guess its clever somehow - cleverer than me

When the clutch is in the ecu map reverts back to s normal map ie full throttle opening in all gears . When the clutch is out , the map reverts to a specific map depending on gears . There must be a feed fro the gearbox to the ECU in this mode
 
When the clutch is in the ecu map reverts back to s normal map ie full throttle opening in all gears . When the clutch is out , the map reverts to a specific map depending on gears . There must be a feed fro the gearbox to the ECU in this mode


cheers, makes more sense now
 
Be very careful with this mod.
When you insert the fuse you also disable the NO Start in gear safe guards.

So if you push the starter button with the bike in gear and the clutch not pulled the bike will jump forward before you pull in the clutch.
All ok if you get the clutch in before something goes wrong.
Could be expensive if it causes you to drop it.


Loudpedal
 
When the clutch is in the ecu map reverts back to s normal map ie full throttle opening in all gears . When the clutch is out , the map reverts to a specific map depending on gears . There must be a feed fro the gearbox to the ECU in this mode

What is the point in having normal map when the clutch ​ IS IN.

Surely when the clutch is IN the drive to the rear wheel is disengaged as so has no effect
 
Be very careful with this mod.
When you insert the fuse you also disable the NO Start in gear safe guards.

So if you push the starter button with the bike in gear and the clutch not pulled the bike will jump forward before you pull in the clutch.
All ok if you get the clutch in before something goes wrong.
Could be expensive if it causes you to drop it.


Loudpedal

what kind of moron needs a safe guard for that? If somebody cant work that out for themselves they are way to stupid to be riding a bike on a public road, in fact way to stupid to be breathing!!!!
 
what kind of moron needs a safe guard for that? If somebody cant work that out for themselves they are way to stupid to be riding a bike on a public road, in fact way to stupid to be breathing!!!!

possibly the MORON who strung together the above 40 word sentence !!
 
Originally Posted by Loudpedal View Post
Be very careful with this mod.
When you insert the fuse you also disable the NO Start in gear safe guards.

So if you push the starter button with the bike in gear and the clutch not pulled the bike will jump forward before you pull in the clutch.
All ok if you get the clutch in before something goes wrong.
Could be expensive if it causes you to drop it.


Loudpedal


what kind of moron needs a safe guard for that? If somebody cant work that out for themselves they are way to stupid to be riding a bike on a public road, in fact way to stupid to be breathing!!!!




Unfortunately motor/motorcycle manufacturers and the law makers have made morons of us all.
We have bikes that you can't turn your lights off, bikes that stall if you try to move off with the side stand down, and bikes that wont start in gear with the clutch out.
Those are the easy ones. Traction control, ABS etc can cause problems when we go off road. Engine management systems not allowing us power when we want it.
The reason for this thread in the first place.

The manufactures don't want us to have to use our brains any more and I'm sure it will get worse.
When you ride more than one bike you expect these "safety features" to be working on them all.

So for all of us out there about to put a fuse into the back of the clutch lever be careful, and when your lying on your arse with a fully loaded S10 on top of you remember you're a "MORON".
It's a good job your body breathes as a motor function.


Loudpedal
 


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