Depends on how bad it is, how much time youve got and how good you want it to be after !
I had the pipes off for a clean up so - cleaned it up in situ, taped off what I didnt want painted, used special metals primer then sprayed silver smoothrite.
Slow to cure but can use hot air gun or hair drier to speed it up
Quite a good match for the original.
Obviously if the whole cover comes off you can do a way better job but then do an oil change at the same time ?
Smoothrite still a good finish though if done carefully - trick is to warm up to at least room temp - the casing and the spray can first.
Hmmm, not sure I want to take the pipes off as that may open a can of worms that I'd rather not right now, its not due an oil change for about 4000 miles, but if I were to take off the front cover I'd give it a proper clean and maybe polish.
When you say polish and clear lacquer, are you talking about polishing the bare metal? I looked into this for my Deauville about two years ago, but after some research, I decided not to. The smooth surface of polished metal has less surface area than the rougher, painted surface. Apparently, this means the engine casing can't cool as quickly as it should and can cause over-heating problems. Whether that's true or not, I don't know, but I spray painted it in the end.
Thanks for the replies chaps, I think I will go down the route of silver smoothrite, sprayed in situ for now, and possibly do a more in-depth job when the front cover can be removed during other mechanical works.
I would suggest using an etch primer on any bare metal (did it with mine with the Halfords etch primer in a rattle can) before using the Hammerite and as hughguzzi says use a heat gun or hairdryer to cure it, as this time of year it will take ages. I was lucky as I did my engine in sections popping them in the airing cupboard to cure the paint. Wife wasn't too happy but I said at least I was not using the dishwasher to degrease the parts.....