Wrong section but…

[Deleted account 240831001]

If it was me, I would be checking the things that are easy to get to.

if the ignition works, then I would jump the starter motor to see if the engine fires up. If it does, then the fault is most likely in the Starter circuitry and not the immobiliser.

I would check whilst at the starter motor the little black wire to make sure it is connected and not corroded.

similarly, checking the voltage on the same little black wire when you press the start button with ignition on should give a good 12v. If it does, then the cause is most likely a starter motor failure.

Good suggestions. I’ve replaced the back end Tupperware now and I’ve removed the starter solenoid to check that.

The Haynes book says there should be no resistance between the 3 & 5 terminals but I’m getting some (the numbers vary) so I guess I should try and find one. That’ll be fun

I’ll have the switch apart and check that as well while I’m in the mood for bad news.

 

[Deleted account 240831001]

If it was me, I would be checking the things that are easy to get to.

if the ignition works, then I would jump the starter motor to see if the engine fires up. If it does, then the fault is most likely in the Starter circuitry and not the immobiliser.

I would check whilst at the starter motor the little black wire to make sure it is connected and not corroded.

similarly, checking the voltage on the same little black wire when you press the start button with ignition on should give a good 12v. If it does, then the cause is most likely a starter motor failure.

I’ve now checked the voltage from that black wire and it’s showing zero, nothing, not a sniff.

I’ve not got small enough cables to jump the starter motor so can’t check that but I’m not too worried about that at the moment.

The switch looks pretty much impossible to mess with being coated in what looks like an epoxy resin so it’s game over.

 

[Deleted account 230818001]

I’ve now checked the voltage from that black wire and it’s showing zero, nothing, not a sniff.

I’ve not got small enough cables to jump the starter motor so can’t check that but I’m not too worried about that at the moment.

The switch looks pretty much impossible to mess with being coated in what looks like an epoxy resin so it’s game over.

Is there no way to bypass the switch?

 

[Deleted account 240831001]

Is there no way to bypass the switch?

Not as far as I can see. If I’d got a new one here I’d try scraping the epoxy off but I haven’t and I’m pissed off so I’m giving up. Sometimes you have to accept it’s just not your day and that point came when I’d removed the clutch lever switch to check that and dropped the screw!

 

[Deleted account 230818001]

Not as far as I can see. If I’d got a new one here I’d try scraping the epoxy off but I haven’t and I’m pissed off so I’m giving up. Sometimes you have to accept it’s just not your day and that point came when I’d removed the clutch lever switch to check that and dropped the screw!

And here’s me thinking that I’m the only one who has days like that!

Got a Plan B for the planned trip?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Possible Ring Antenna failure. The GS911 might confirm this. You should get an EWS caption come up on the instrument cluster, emphasis on should.

Try another key, (hopefully you’ve already tried that)
Try unplugging the ring antenna and plugging it back in again just in case it’s a poor connection.

 

[sparkplug]

I’m pissed off so I’m giving up

Sorry it didn't turn out to be an easy fix Andy.

I'll move it into the appropriate section then so that it might help others in future

 

[Deleted account 240831001]

Possible Ring Antenna failure. The GS911 might confirm this. You should get an EWS caption come up on the instrument cluster, emphasis on should.

Try another key, (hopefully you’ve already tried that)
Try unplugging the ring antenna and plugging it back in again just in case it’s a poor connection.

Where does the ring antenna hide itself? There’s been nothing new come up on the instrument panel and it’s still not lighting up the ABS or charge lights.

I’ve tried both keys and nothing changed so they’re ok and I’m afraid any repair now needs parts so it’s going to have to wait.

 

[Deleted account 240831001]

And here’s me thinking that I’m the only one who has days like that!

Got a Plan B for the planned trip?

Yeah, take the Royal Enfield and avoid motorways

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Where you stick your key in the ignition. The black plastic ring around the ignition key is the ring antenna. If you look underneath you should see the connector.

 

[Santa-2512]

You normally get an EWS warning on the dash , if the EWS is showing a fault

 

[Deleted account 240831001]

So that’s another possible cause eliminated. I asked a friend to see what happens on his bike if you turn the ignition on with the kill switch in the not run position and the ABS plus alternator lights still came on.

I’ll be home early next week so I’ll phone motorworks and see what they reckon but I’m leaning towards Ian’s suggestion of the ring antenna.

I really don’t want to have to get a shop to collect it

 

[WIDELOAD]

Andy, why don't you give Roy Gardner a ring, usually willing to give good advice.

 

[Deleted account 240831001]

Andy, why don't you give Roy Gardner a ring, usually willing to give good advice.

Good idea, I’d forgotten about him. I’ll give him a call once I’m home.