Yippee - I've got an oil leak and a slippy clutch

[delpel]

Dag nabitt 2003 1050GS with just under 12000 miles on it (remember it was off the road for 18 months) and 2 weeks before going on my last long trip over to North Cyprus I experience a slipping clutch when accelerating hard to overtake a car in 5th gear. Also does it occasionally in 6th and 4th

Tried changing the clutch fluid and checking the level in the master cylinder in a vain hope it was that simple but no such luck

So did the research and found the tell-tale leaking oil from the right side gearbox/engine joint and put it down to a bolloxed oil seal and contaminated clutch.

I have ordered the parts from Motorworks who I must say have been fantastic and they are on route.

Now I have read the Haynes manual and although the job looks long winded and will no doubt take me a few days (remember it's bloody hot here) I am tempted to have a go as my usual mechanic is very busy.

Do you guys have any top tips, any pitfalls to look out for. I gather you can remove the wheel, drive unit, swinging arm and gearbox as a oner. Is this recommended.

Any advice and tips would be greatly appreciated

 

[Gas'd Off]

Sorry can't offer any tips but you will be able to when you've done yours
Good luck!

 

[Pukmeister]

Not done one myself Delpel but I've seen bikes at the dealers with the sumps sat on stands with the rear frame hinged up and tied up, with the rear end of the bike missing for a clutch change.

Not sure about the 1150 exactly but I remember reading an article, I think it was on Adv rider (Gspot), about engine rear seals and how to replace them. Might be worth you having a search to see what could be involved.

I reckon if you rebuilt your bike after its earlier front end smash, a clutch and engine/gearbox seal should be within your ability assuming no special tools are needed. If the engine rear oil seal has failed you may need to use a lathe to make an insertion tool for the new seals.

 

[Mick O'Malley]

I gather you can remove the wheel, drive unit, swinging arm and gearbox as a oner. Is this recommended.

Did this job on my 1100 and you're correct in thinking that it's time consuming rather than difficult. The whole transmission is easy to remove as a unit; I used an old seat belt as a sling around the back of my neck as I was working solo. To replace it I hired an engine crane but if you have a helper this shouldn't be necessary.

I hung the rear brake gubbins on a long piece of door stop (see picture) but foolishly removed the rear sub-frame instead of swinging it up out of the way. This would have saved a lot of time and tie wraps! .

Good luck; no doubt Neil will add some words of 1150 wisdom presently.

Regards, Mick

 

[Steptoe]

Use a trolley jack under the gearbox, and slide the whole lot out in one piece , i remove the rear wheel as it seems to make it easier to manoeuvre.

Swing the rear subframe upout of the way. Don't remove the front subframe stud that goes all the way through the top of the engine, just loosen the two 16mm bolts.

Cut the heads off a couple of long M8 bolts. and use them to screw into the engine case and slide the gearbox back into place. It also helps to have the clutch push rod inserted into the diaphram spring and the gearbox at the same time (if your doing it by yourself) to help location.

Also strap the front wheel around the center stand, otherwise you've a good chance of pushing the bike off the center stand as your trying to get the gearbox back on .

 

[delpel]

Thanks for the advice and tips chaps. The more I read the Haynes manual the easier it looks (kiss off death)

Do you use an special tool for aligning the clutch plates when re-assembling and also anyone got any photos showing the 120Deg alignment marks.

Thanks again

Del

 

[beermonster]

Clutch

Hi

Just had to replace mine, had to go DIY due to cash flow. My clutch was also contaminated but this was caused by a leaking clutch slave cylinder. Ended up replacing the seal that resides behind this item as well to be on the safe side.

I found these threads useful.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43111

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47332&page=1&pp=15

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52149

I went further with disassembly than you strictly need to. I removed the final drive, swinging arm and rear sub frame. The latter item proved to be a right pain in the arse to refit as the motor moved when I removed the gear box which meant the top mounting bolt was out of alignment. That said I was able to lube splines and bearings which had not been done in five years, the sub frame got a lick of Hammerite so it was not wasted.

I would therefore ignore Haynes regarding sub frame removal and pivot it up, as others have said stability may be a problem so get hold of some straps to ensure the plot does not fall of it’s stand.

I aligned the clutch by eye, used two M8 bolts as guides to replace box, found this helped. I replaced the whole clutch as mine had done 85,000 so was probably due any way.

All the best with it, just allow plenty of time and get a mate to help if possible another pair of hands come in useful. Crap place to put a clutch but there you go bloody BM’s


Simon

 

[dazco]

hiya Delpel, did the clutch on my 1100 last year, i was a dit worried about doing it at first but if you take your time and do it methodically, i put nuts and bolts etc relating to a particular part or area into seperate clear food bags then labeled each one accordingly
ive done jobs before and occasionally been left with the odd not ore bolt spare!!!
I used a trolley jack under the gearbox, and i did this on my own.
I removed the rear wheal then the swing arm assembly then the gearbox.
Thinking that as one unit it would be a bit unweildy.
The whole job went well and has since covered about 15000 miles in just over 12 months.
As for the alignment of the clutch plate etc i used the push rod and very carefully wrapped masking tape around the rod where it passed through the friction plate, this built the diameter up on the rod and made a snug fit with the plate.
One thing to be very careful with is separating the the Gearbox from the Engine, i used a lump of wood and a Soft faced hammer and just kept tapping all around the mating surfaces until it was loose, DONT force it.
Hope thats some help.
Oh yeah and clean all the inside of the gearbox face and the Engine face with a solvent to remove all the shitty oil and clutch dust.
Then have a big
Cheers Dazco