Zumo and Autocom

Mike Gough

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Hi Guys,

Apologies I know there are lots of threads about this, but I can't tie down exactly what I need to know from them.

Taking my first steps into Zumo land and Autocom.

I have identified the Zumo 500 and an Autocom Kit 200.

Would like to go the BT route.

I would like to connect an iPod and a BT Nokia and connect to the Can Bus somewhere.

Thinking of putting the Autocom under the seat.

I ride an'06 GS1200.

So a few questions :

Given the kit above what extra leads will I need to purchase (part numbers if you know them).

Where is the best place to connect into the Can Bus.

Does the Zumo take SDHC memory cards?

Do I need to consider which Nokia I use with the Autocom.

...and of course how does it all work together in terms what takes preference over what when in use.



Is there anything I haven't considered.

No prior knowledge of BT or adding electronic bits to bikes, so any help gratefully received.

Thanks in anticipation,

Mike
 
DON'T DO IT! Use the money for something else!

AUTOCOM is absolute waste of money.

Get a Zumo .. buy a long male - female cable to out of device then you have a female socket to Plug a standard headphones in (or ultimate ear jobbie into lead).

Same thing with ipod. Use Ultimate ear type headphones and direct connect to it

My autocom sound is absolute rubbish. Wished I spent the money on Ultimate ear headphones. The cables and mic boom is a real annoyance .. especially as it doesn't really work. It makes taking the helmet off and putting it a hassle. Have this wire flapping around fpor nothing.

Just from my experience on a recent installation on my bike.

ZUMO is brilliant though .. it works great ..even without sound. You learn to look at it at the right time, as it has a mileage indicator for the next turn.
 
On the flip side

... I love my Autocom Active plus.

... I have previously used hardwired phone and MP-3 player connections. Both devices sat in digi-camera pouch on the screen support bar by the instruments, cables ran alonside the tank, under the panels, to the Autocom under the seat. The riders connection I had in a clip on the left hand black 'mini-cover.'

... Never had a problem with volume, I get good sound quality and plenty of volume in my Arais using Autocom headsets. The speakers seem to me far superior to ear buds, but I haven't tried the Ultimate ear moulds so I can't comment. Having a single lead connecting lid to bike, via a lead in my jacket, is convenient and easy to use.

... The boom mic takes a little getting used to and I covered the capsule with a butchered Maplins pop-screen for extra comfort.

... Pillion intercom works great too, Vox level does take a little fine tuning, but once you get it right for two lids it's great.

... I about to upgrade to a Zumo550 for Twat-Nav and music when I pick up my new bike.

... I understand the Zumo is light on volume output, but my Autocom has more than enough spare capacity to make up the difference. I am weighing the convenience of the 'Aux 1' bluetooth interface for phone, but will probably set it up initially all hardwire again.
 
... I love my Autocom Active plus.

... I have previously used hardwired phone and MP-3 player connections. Both devices sat in digi-camera pouch on the screen support bar by the instruments, cables ran alonside the tank, under the panels, to the Autocom under the seat. The riders connection I had in a clip on the left hand black 'mini-cover.'

... Never had a problem with volume, I get good sound quality and plenty of volume in my Arais using Autocom headsets. The speakers seem to me far superior to ear buds, but I haven't tried the Ultimate ear moulds so I can't comment. Having a single lead connecting lid to bike, via a lead in my jacket, is convenient and easy to use.

... The boom mic takes a little getting used to and I covered the capsule with a butchered Maplins pop-screen for extra comfort.

... Pillion intercom works great too, Vox level does take a little fine tuning, but once you get it right for two lids it's great.

... I about to upgrade to a Zumo550 for Twat-Nav and music when I pick up my new bike.

... I understand the Zumo is light on volume output, but my Autocom has more than enough spare capacity to make up the difference. I am weighing the convenience of the 'Aux 1' bluetooth interface for phone, but will probably set it up initially all hardwire again.

Thanks for that, so if I hardwire instead of BT what extra lead(s) do I need?
 
I have the Zumo 550 and Autocom Super Pro Deluxe. With an Ipod connected for Sound Direct to the autocom. Sounds Great, would sound even better with in ear monitors I'm sure.

I originally bought the Cable connect method for the ZUMO, it was a nightmare. Volume levels were all over the place and the phone wouldnt work. £30 for the cable... was a waste of money in my opinion..

I now connect the ZUMO to my autocom via the BT Dongle, and Connect the Zumo to my Nokia E61 for Telephone Calls. It works perfectly...

That said I do not use the ZUMO for Music. Sound is very clear over the BT, and folks on the telephone have no idea I'm on a bike.

So the only cables going into my autocom are an isolated stereo cable for the Ipod, and a BT Dongle.. and my bike to bike cable.. That's it..

Good Luck

Maurice.
 
hi i have zumo 550 and autocom connected by bt works fine, phone is also bt to zumo, i hardwire ipod to autocom.
 
I have the Autocom Super-Pro to which I have the ipod connected by hard wire, I also use Ultimate Ear monitors, spot on sound BTW...:thumb2

The Zumo is connected to the Autocom by BT and the phone also by BT to the Zumo, all's good and clear, as mentioned above, folk don't realise I'm on a bike when on the phone.

Music from the Zumo to Autocom via BT is poor as it's mono and lacking in bass and treble...

Oh nearly forgot, depending on your type of phone you may have a problem with dropped calls...

My Motorola Z was a problem, Sony Ericsson works just fine...:thumb

Bike2Bike is via cable and ptt button, everything contained in a tank bag which also has power to it...
 
Hi Guys,

Apologies I know there are lots of threads about this, but I can't tie down exactly what I need to know from them.

Taking my first steps into Zumo land and Autocom.

I have identified the Zumo 500 and an Autocom Kit 200.

Would like to go the BT route.

I would like to connect an iPod and a BT Nokia and connect to the Can Bus somewhere.

Thinking of putting the Autocom under the seat.

I ride an'06 GS1200.

So a few questions :

Given the kit above what extra leads will I need to purchase (part numbers if you know them).

Where is the best place to connect into the Can Bus.

Does the Zumo take SDHC memory cards?

Do I need to consider which Nokia I use with the Autocom.

...and of course how does it all work together in terms what takes preference over what when in use.



Is there anything I haven't considered.

No prior knowledge of BT or adding electronic bits to bikes, so any help gratefully received.

Thanks in anticipation,

Mike

Reeto mate you will need the below parts then

1x Kit 200 (£154.99)
1x Part 1317 £28 (Twin music adaptor)
1x Part 1308 £4 (2m music lead to connect the Zumo GPS)
1x Part 1273 £75 (Bluetooth phone dongle)

The power is taken from the red/green wire from the auxiliary power socket, earth direct to the battery.

Rich :beerjug:
 
DON'T DO IT! Use the money for something else!

AUTOCOM is absolute waste of money.

Get a Zumo .. buy a long male - female cable to out of device then you have a female socket to Plug a standard headphones in (or ultimate ear jobbie into lead).

Same thing with ipod. Use Ultimate ear type headphones and direct connect to it

My autocom sound is absolute rubbish. Wished I spent the money on Ultimate ear headphones. The cables and mic boom is a real annoyance .. especially as it doesn't really work. It makes taking the helmet off and putting it a hassle. Have this wire flapping around fpor nothing.

Just from my experience on a recent installation on my bike.

ZUMO is brilliant though .. it works great ..even without sound. You learn to look at it at the right time, as it has a mileage indicator for the next turn.

Oh dear Tom, you've got it bad :D

I find my custom moulded monitors enhance the experience of using an Autocom, their hub deals with the connections, mixing etc and the monitors mean I have the very best audio quality sound delivered into my lugholes at low levels with the ambient noise reduced to safer levels of exposure.

Monitors on their own don't solve the quandary of multiple devices. Currently while I await the arrival of the relevant autocom parts for my new Zumo I am plugging my monitors directly into an iPod and a Scala Rider bluetooth headset is handling voice prompts/alerts and phone.

Interestingly I have noticed in two weeks usage the bluetooth devices disconnecting, a real bind as you get used to the poximity alerts to prompt you and the bluetooth connection disappears leaving you with no audio.

What I can't say is what device is dropping the connection - I *think* the culprit is the Zumo as I have lost connections from both phone (Blackberry Curve) and Headset (Scala). If that's the case the same will I presume happen to the Autocom bluetooth part. :(

I think that means I'm going to down the cable route and eradicate bluetooth from my world, convenience is no substitute for reliability.

I would be giving Autocom an opportunity to look at your installation, its not that far from you and a decent ride up and down could be had too :thumb
 
I'm with the Judge, Tom.

There is no good reason why your Zumo / Autocom / music / helmet set up should not work, at all.

Ditch the boom mike by all means, if you have nobody to speak to via radio or phone. Though, once you get used to it, it's no great inconvenience.

I have a flip front Shoei, which I have used with both Autocom's speakers, UltimatEar's monitors, navigation, iPod, pillion and a Kenwood bike-to-bike (with and without Push-To-Talk). In a word (or two) IT WORKS*.

I do not use Bluetooth on the bike, seeing it as just one more thing to go wrong, nor do I use a phone. The 7 pin Din headphove lead is fine.

The only fallback I have is a spare, jack to 7 pin din lead, cable tied in, just in case the Autocom might fail. I can see no good reason why it might, though.

I use the spare lead from time to time, just run straight from the navigation, into my helmet, if I am in a city and just want to find a street, without any music or whatever.



*Some people speak highly of the Starcom 'bud' microphone and, indeed, of the whole Starcom set up. It's certainly smaller, albeit Autocom units are not large. Starcom's fault, if it is a fault, is the miles of wire one seems to get and some people do not like the connectors so much.

Take a look at one...if you like it, swap. You will sell your Autocom in two seconds, on the site. But, If I were you, trace the doubtless simple problem with your Autocom set up first.
 
Well .. I am not sure if this is what it should do .. but I remember when I first saw the product a couple of years ago .. it boasted how you can use it at speeds of 100MPH.

In my "professionally" installed unit .. anything over 30MPH and I can't hear a thing nor can the person at the other end of the phone :rolleyes:

It would be good if GSRich can explan what might be wrong? :nenau

At the moment .. I am thinking it is a crap product in the sense that it DOES NOT DO WHAT IT SAYS ON THE TIN.

There are only 4 knobs on the unit that you can adjust as a user. I have turned the rider and pillion volume knobs to max. The other two, VOX control and Music fader are set at the middle.

It's like those heated grips .. they thought I was a daft "user" when I first mentioned it. Now there is a national recall :rolleyes:

I hope I am wrong about this autocom as I want it to work. I paid good money for the unit and installation :(
 
Well your Super Pro will work a lot better than your claimed 30mph as I have personally used the system at well into the triple figures. So without seeing you or actually getting your system back here for us to test it is very hard to say what is causing the problem.

You seem very quick to put our systems down and have you actually contacted us direct to see what we can offer you?? Or are you on here to bascially write off our products witout us even trying to help you??

Rich
 
Well your Super Pro will work a lot better than your claimed 30mph as I have personally used the system at well into the triple figures. So without seeing you or actually getting your system back here for us to test it is very hard to say what is causing the problem.

You seem very quick to put our systems down and have you actually contacted us direct to see what we can offer you?? Or are you on here to bascially write off our products witout us even trying to help you??

Rich

To be honest Rich I think Novice is 'kicking back' having just returned from a trip when the system let him down, you know and I know and others have said the Autocom system will work far, far better than he has experienced so there is definitely a problem.

I think what compounds Novice's upset is he seemed to have decided between Ultimate's monitors OR an Autocom system and on his trip his didn't work and most of the others who had monitors were having success with theirs.

I seem to remember this system being fitted the day before the trip which hardly gives time for bugs to be got out of the system with a shakedown, as you and I know there are a number of gotchas when fitting these systems and it seems at least one of them got Novice.

Just like I've known people to not get on with their £200 custom moulded monitors and sling them in a draw, so I'm sure you have experienced the same with a frustrated Autocom customer.

Rest assured if he comes knocking on Ultimate's door as Autocom dealers they will be as keen as you to see his problems are sorted and not by ditching the system he has paid good money for.

But I have encouraged him (as have others) to bring then bike in to you to be looked at and I hope thats what he does before he burns too many bridges ;)
 
Well your Super Pro will work a lot better than your claimed 30mph as I have personally used the system at well into the triple figures. So without seeing you or actually getting your system back here for us to test it is very hard to say what is causing the problem.

You seem very quick to put our systems down and have you actually contacted us direct to see what we can offer you?? Or are you on here to bascially write off our products witout us even trying to help you??

Rich

Rich,

Thanks for taking time to write the comments.

You are right, I haven't given you the chance to have a look at the system so I will do that. Can you book me in on a saturday? That's the only day I can make it up to your site. I know you may not be opened on Saturdays currently, but you will do later in year. I can wait and hope it is before I go away again in June on the bike.

My frustration is that the system as it is configured and installed on my bike by an official dealer (of yours) does not work to the standard that you advertise it. I have just come back from said dealer on Monday where we went on a test ride at 20MPH around London streets. It worked ok but with all bits on FULL volume it is still very poor quality I am getting on the headphones. ON the way home, I got a call from my brother. I was able to answer the call, but the sound level for him and me were disappointing. The moment I hit the M4, the sound level from the ipod and Garmin became almost zero. My heart just sank as it happened. I am really sad that it does not work.

You said that I was too quick to put your system down .. I was not able to use the equipment on my holiday and now having revisited the dealer to have it checked, it is still not working. How would you feel? :nenau

I really hope it is something simple like "user error". Then I can make use of the system with a Kenwood receiver on my trip in June!

If I call you number, do I need to ask for someone specific (like you)? Or do I just book it with whoever answers the phone :nenau

Let's get this sorted so I can start singing praises about your product. Rather than feeling a bit crap for spending the money.
 
Zumo / Autocom

OK guys many thanks for your input.

Strangely Autocom suggest lead 1314, where as almost everyone else including dealer recommend lead 1299.

Anyone got any further views on that?

Thanks again,

Mike
 
I have 1299 and I believe it is a lead which plugs into the mic and speaker outputs on the Zumo mount and then plugs into the autocom.

The setup I have then requires a Bluetooth connection between phone and Zumo, so you answer the phone through the zumo.

My ipod is just plugged into the Autocom using a separate wire directly into Autocom unit.

1314 might be the BT dongle :nenau
 
OK guys many thanks for your input.

Strangely Autocom suggest lead 1314, where as almost everyone else including dealer recommend lead 1299.

Anyone got any further views on that?

Thanks again,

Mike

Part 1314 is a straight music lead (albeit for use with a bike powered audio device which I guess the Zumo is if you're using it without speech requirements) which will give you sound out of the Zumo but will give you no microphone input for you to speak to your caller.

Part 1299 is both audio out and microphone in.
 
As I understand this ...

Mike Gough said:
Strangely Autocom suggest lead 1314, where as almost everyone else including dealer recommend lead 1299

Part 1314 is a straight music lead (albeit for use with a bike powered audio device which I guess the Zumo is if you're using it without speech requirements) which will give you sound out of the Zumo but will give you no microphone input for you to speak to your caller.

... 1314 is the straight music 'out' lead from Zumo to Autocom Aux2, it is 'ground loop' isolated, necessary if you're using bike powered music (ie the Zumo) and therefore pricey.

... You could eliminate 'ground loops' and use a cheaper lead if everything is powered from a common source, such as a Centech fuse panel, instead of powering the Autocom at the battery and the Zumo at the headstock. Except that'll cost more than the isolated lead if you want to do a pukka, relay switched, installation job :blast

... If you want to use cheaper basic cables and have an the option to add a battery powered MP3 player as well as the Zumo you can try 1307/1308 music leads and add the twin-input adaptor 1317 into Aux 2. Use input-A for Zumo and input-B for a battery powered device. That'll still add up to more than a 1314 lead though :loopy

Part 1299 is both audio out and microphone in.

... Judge is right, 1299, the combined mic/audio lead also connects to Autocom Aux2

... Problem is the Aux2 input is automatically muted when ever the Vox level triggers at the mic for intercom use (50% mute) , the phone rings (Aux 1 100% mute), or you're having a natter B2B (100% Aux 4 or 5 depending on Autocom controller). Not expecially useful for phone use as 1299 connects into a 'muted' input.

... This is why some are using the separate bluetooth dongle into Aux1 for their phones. It appears a tad pricey at £75, but it is powered from Aux1 avoiding the need for regular (near constant) recharging.

... I wonder if this is why Novice is not getting a decent volume out of his set-up, in which case he could try winding the vox suppression level up (or sensitivity down). In-lid speaker positioning might be another issue :neanu


... As a result Autocom seem now to recommend 1314 for Zumo music into Aux2 and 1273 for bluetooth phone into Aux1 on their current systems.

... Assuming your phone is not bike powered :)duno) and you don't mind a 'hardwire' connection between phone and Autocom, you can use cables 1240 or 1241, plus any relevant phone specific adaptor, to hook up your phone. It's far less elegant and less convenient, but a lot cheaper than the 1273 bluetooth option. Mine has worked a treat though :thumb



... I expect GSrich will be along in the morning to confirm all of the above as utter bollocks :D
 


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