When to change the oil?

HeatedGrips · Aug 9, 2003

I've been changing oil and filter every 3,000 miles on my current GS, the one before it (and the Ducati before that) even though the service schedule lists a 6,000 mile interval.

My belief is that these engines are based on an old design and the manufacturers at one time had 3,000 oil changes but increased that to make running the things seem cheaper. I'm still using "ordinary" non-synthetic 10W-40.

However, I'm no engineer. So what do you lot think, am I wasting money?

Greg Masters · Aug 9, 2003

HeatedGrips said:
I've been changing oil and filter every 3,000 miles ... am I wasting money?

Probably not - but you could do better.

Most engine wear occurs in two different scenarios 1) when the engine is cold and the clearances haven't settled to their design levels for when the engine is at normal operating temperature and 2) when the engine oil is so hot or worn that its lubricating properties start to fail.

To have your engine last to a ripe old age, ride off as soon as you have started the engine but then 'stroke' the engine until you have 5 bars on the oil temp.

Use the best oil that you can afford - I use a fully synthetic API SL quality oil (do not use this oil in a bike with a wet clutch) which I then change with the filter when it gets dirty - the measure of which I use the factory service intervals of 6k miles.

So buy a better oil and change it less frequently than you currently are would be my advice!

Greg

gavin · Aug 9, 2003

BMW say do not use any oil rated higher than SG, be it mineral, semi synth, or fully synthetic.

gavin · Aug 9, 2003

Sorry, no higher than SG or SH.

Greg Masters · Aug 9, 2003

gavin said:
BMW say do not use any oil rated higher than SG, be it mineral, semi synth, or fully synthetic.

So they do, but go and ask BMW GB Head of Bike Technical and he can't tell you why - neither can the Castrol Technical Department in Swindon.

Greg

gavin · Aug 9, 2003

Greg, i believe it all stemmed from the SJ oils having reduced of levels of phosphorus and zinc, which are prime anti-wear additives, among others, but i, like yourself, don't believe that the current crop of modern synthetic oils don't have superior additives nowadays, that can do the job better.

Greg Masters · Aug 9, 2003

It could also be an association with wet-clutch bikes which shouldn't go higher than SH because the friction modifiers will shag the clutch.

Greg

cookie · Aug 9, 2003

gavin said:
Greg, i believe it all stemmed from the SJ oils having reduced of levels of phosphorus and zinc, which are prime anti-wear additives

'cos phosphorus and zinc are bad for cats, so where does that leave cat equipped bikes?

Greg Masters · Aug 9, 2003

cookie said:
'cos phosphorus and zinc are bad for cats, so where does that leave cat equipped bikes?

Probably exactly where it leaves cat-equipped cars - absolutely OK since such small amounts of oil are burnt (hopefully!).

Greg

HeatedGrips · Aug 9, 2003

I read in a piece by a Castrol expert that the stuff rated above SG has characteristics that lead to it shearing under pressure when used in engines that share the oil with the gearbox - but that wouldn't matter on our bikes.

BBB61 · Aug 10, 2003

The old airhead engines had service intervals of 5k for minor services and 10K for majors back in 1978 when I first started riding bikes. This compared with every 2k for a Moto Guzzi Le Mans and 3k for most Japanese stuff of the time.

IMHO, changing the oil and filter every 3k on a GS is waste of money, unless you are riding the bike in extreme conditions.

Bob

CoolCarbon · Aug 10, 2003

Cost...........?

So with all this talk of oils...........what do you chaps tend to pay for the Oils you decide to use?? :confused:

CC

Den · Aug 10, 2003

PAY? Get a job which involves the use of a fuel card. My 03 citroen berlingo deisel uses huge amounts of mobil 1 oil.

Greg Masters · Aug 10, 2003

If I could afford it, I'd use Mobil 1. My local Halfords has it for about £35 for 4 litres.

As I can't, I use Halfords Fully Synthetic API SL for around £25 for 5 litres.

However, I recently picked up a job lot of Vauxhall Fully Synthetic 5w-40 API SJ @ £10 for 5 litres. I'll be using that next time around.

Greg

NB I also work on the principle that as tesco

neither make cornflakes nor baked-beans, so neither Halfords nor Vauxhall make motor oil. (But I dunno who, on their behalfs, does)

gavin · Aug 11, 2003

If it's a case of wanting to use synthetic oil, i think Castrol's R4 Superbike is SG rated, which should keep owners and BMW happy.

Spanish Bob · Aug 11, 2003

OK Oil experts

So, what about the time variable, Diesn´t degrade and produce iffy by products - shouldnt these recomended mileages also be linked to times ie every 3 or 6 month sor whatever.

I change my oil every 3000 miles (or 6months). Also riding in Spain the temperatures can get relatively high, thats another excuse I use. I use Castrol GP €25 for 4 litres.

am I a freak of nature? Should I get help?

(RIP) Kaister · Aug 11, 2003

most car service intervals are now a minimum of 10000miles - this means first service as well.
This is due to modern synthetic oils being used by manufacturers from new - yamaha ship all their bikes from japan with motul already in them to guarantee the dealer doesnt put a lesser grade in from new.

if i was using a standard oil, i'd do the oil every 6000 - mobil 1 is suppsed to go 25000 miles !!

3000 is a waste of money IMO
6000 is about right - just for peace of mind
10000 is probably still ok on synthetic

this is for oilheads

Phil

The Mechanic · Aug 13, 2003

Mobil 1

Those of you using Mobil 1 of the 5/40 grade are using an oil that is too thin according to the 'boffins', you need the proper bike Mobil 1 which has a grade of 15/40. This tends to offer a little more protection on cold start up. And as already suggested ride the bike straight away, sitting around warming the engine does more harm than good. More and even heat is generated when the engine is doing useful work, just take it gently for the first couple of miles until the RID shows 3+ bars.

Incidentally fully synthetic oil was originally supposed to NEVER need changing, just the filter; with a top up to cover oil loss during the filter change.

Leave the car oil well alone and stick with proper bike orientated lube, the oil companies know what their doing after all they spend enough on developing oils for us.

Uinneag · Apr 28, 2009

Eh up

(RIP) Proff · Apr 28, 2009

OONY you are being a very naughty boy !!!

onyack

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