bevel box oil leak

bumpmuncher

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hello "r100 gs 93" got a bit of oil coming out through rear wheel bolt holes and central hole (the bit the wheel bolts to)showed up shortly after purchase thought i was rid of oily back tyres with a shaftie:blast main oil seal replaced 800miles ago and remains dry. the previous owner had bearings replaced nov last year. at the moment i have stemed the flow with ptfe tape on the end of the wheel bolts (top end allowing full thread contact) and bit of blue paper in the middle hole and 2 6mm holes on the wheel mating face. is it likely a bung has been lef out of the other end or is this signs of a more serious problem
any ideas ? (preferably about my leaky paraleaver) thanks Bm
 

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Maybe the brake rod shaft that runs through the final drive letting oil by, the shaft "O" rings are thin fragile things.
 
no not either of those, as i said its got an new main seal which remains dry and the brake rod is dry aswell. the oil is coming through the middle of the crown gear. i have stemmed the flow as i said before what little oil gets through collects in the center bit and the brake remains uncontaminated. i was wondering if there was ment to be a bung in the middle of the crown gear thats been left out when it was rebuilt after having the bearing replaced. thanks Bm
 
Use the Microfiches to see what parts should be there www.realoem.com

Theres a small plug shown on the crown gear (no3) :-
 

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got a clymer manual and it dosenot show that too clearly that small plug could be the problem. bugger it will have to pull it down again. cheers Bm
 
ok here is a piture, the black lines point to where the oil comes out from. the main seal i still dry
bevel.jpg


there is no bung for the center hole does any one have any suggestions why the oil would come out here i cant realy see from the parts diagrams. Cheers Bm

sorry didnt mention the oil only escapes now when i remove the back wheel because of the tempory bits i have done to stop it.
 
Last edited:
update

is there any adjustment on the pre load on the taper bearing because there is a very small amount of play in the rear wheel, less than half a mm in the gap inbetween the brake drum and the bevel case. or is it time for a new wheel bearing. will attempt to read my manual but a few pionters and a bit of advise will be greatly recieved, cheers Bm
 
Hello me again if anyone is still following my whitterings about my leaky bevel box,
i have just pulled it apart again and everything has become obvious
bevelsplit.jpg

it wasnt shimmed up properly when the bearings were replaced giving the shiny bit a bit of slop letting the oil get through. there are no pics in the clymer manual showing these parts split (why didnt i trust my distrust of clymer manuals i have never got on with them, original work shop or haynes for me) so new bearings and a reshim and i will see how it gos. Bm
 
thats it ive had enough! taking the first bit of advise i was given, i am getting another. mannaged to strip it myself and found taper bearing not origional SKF or FAG (not genuine Bmw) think it was bit wider, so shims were buggered up big ball bearing was ok. but the pinion bearing was completly shot, crown wheel teeth got groove and pinion gear got chunk out of one tooth. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
should be back on the road early next week :clap :clap :clap (before i have a psycotic episode due to lack of bike) thanks for the help form those in the know. Bm
 
Hi,
Well done but don't forget that all biking is one long psychotic episode - the most popular excuse for wheelies, speeding or general mad riding under plod's nose is "The Voices told me to".
Bin
 


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