DRIVESHAFTS

BOB UK · Oct 12, 2003

Well it’s happened at last here was me merrily riding about on my R100G/S
With out a care in the world and having the odd look at this board and thinking poor things all that trouble with there bikes
But then just when you thought it was safe what was that funny noise?????
It was the kind of noise you would get if you put a cats tail in a vice and tightened it up it wouldn’t do it all the time but was worse if the bike was loaded up
The noise was accompanied by a vibration that could be felt through out the bike but more so through the foot pegs and even though the noise wasn’t there all the time I could make it do it at will by hard use of the throttle
Well IV stripped out the Drive shaft and yes you’ve guessed it there is lots of play in the U.J. closest to the gearbox
Now my questions are would that be enough to cause the noise?
What are the options with the shaft?
I was thinking of getting it rebuilt I got this name off an old post http://www.ims-ltd.co.uk/ has any one any experience of there service?
The other name that comes up is Erich Demant, in Germany has anyone used him?
Thanks for any help and at least it hasn’t let me down a long way from home and it will give me a chance to clean up the parlever arm so any tips on how to get the shine back on the ally?

Spanish Bob · Oct 12, 2003

Bob

no experience of it yet, I still expectantly savouring that one! Some people here have tried Eric I think - I suppose the only inconvenience is to be without bike for a while or have a spare drive.

cheers

bob

Deleted Member · Oct 12, 2003

mono or para?

I take it that you have a dead paralever when you mention uj at gear box end. One of the main reasons I bought the older monolever bike was reliability of simple drive shaft.
I took my bike to Phil Kingston at Euro Classics. He seems like a real good honest guy that knows his way around air heads as well as anyone. Maybe others have more experience here. I think it was judge who recommended him to me.

alan

BOB UK · Oct 13, 2003

BMW tool NO 00.2.560

Thanks for the comments so far one more thing in the Haynes manual it mentions the use of a BMW tool NO 00.2.560 to tighten up the drive shaft at the gearbox end is there any way round this? If not is it an expensive tool? Were can I get one
and yes I do have a dead paralever so im now getting around on an old Triumph trials outfit FUN BUT NOT VERY FAST !!!!!!!

cookie · Oct 13, 2003

to do up shaft to output flange bolts you can use a combination spanner. just turn 'til "'kin tight".

if you feel the need to torque them to bmw spec. you can bolt up shaft first, set bolts with normal torque wrench, then slip swing arm over shaft.

ps. you should use a very low range torque wrench to set the bevel pivot pre load if you have disturbed it.

fritz · Oct 13, 2003

Bob, welcome to the r100gs

do a search on site and you'll find lots of (not necessarily cheerful) info on driveshafts. Being on number 3 in a year I feel for you. Most stuff to help is posted on here under Airheads or Technical. Guess you won't be coming to Kent then ? Plenty of experience amongst the membership, most already here.
My deepest sympathies :banghead:

judge · Oct 13, 2003

I know of one of our number who has had a rebuilt shaft done by Eric Demant, I believe the turnaround was quite good and if you can afford to be without your shaft and you've got a couple of hundred quid then I'd give it a go.

Especially if Fritz's experience is anything to go by. I have yet to exerience a shaft problem and in anticipation of this I just happen to keep a spare. Not quite flush enough to send the spare off the be Demant'd but at least I'll be able to swap them out fairly quickly should I suffer a failure.

Sheez what other bike would you end up keeping spares like these?!!

Here's me with my spare shaft...

Spanish Bob · Oct 13, 2003

Oh she´s lovely Judge!

BOB UK · Oct 13, 2003

Well just to keep you all up to date on the propshaft thing I phoned IMS today to be told that they no longer rebuild parlever propshafts but they put me on to Dave Mac Propshafts
1-2 Northey Road, Foleshill, Coventry, West Midlands, CV6 5NF, England
Tel: + 44 (0) 1203 683239, Fax: + 44 (0) 1203 581852
http://www.freewebs.com/davemacpropshafts/
Who seemed to know all about it when I spoke to them they and said that they had done a few in the past and it would be £30 plus VAT each end
Now that sounds like a bit of a bargain to me as any one had any work done by them in the past? and thanks for the advice about putting the shaft back on I did have to split the bevel pivot as I have to replace the rubber boots I have had a good look through most of the posts on the site and it sounds like the best way to do it is to put the shaft in the paralever then to bolt the whole thing up to the back of the gear box is that right?

judge · Oct 13, 2003

Spanish Bob said:
Oh she´s lovely Judge!

Actually she is damned ugly but at £70 for a s/h shaft with 5K on it she was definately worth having!

cookie · Oct 13, 2003

30 quid each end? gotta be worth a punt surely

wonder how much they replace.

if it's any good i might send up my spare that's got a little bit of play in it. like judge, i'm not quite flush enough to send it to germany "just in case i need it".

seems to be many ways to re assemble. i've tried a couple of them, second time was for fun & curiosity (true & very sad).
if (what do i mean: IF????. when) i do next time i will attach & torque shaft, then swing arm, then bevel box. done it that way before & it's easiest for me. others probably do it their own way.

check the bevel pivots. mine were shagged at 40,000 miles. if you want a torque wrench that goes down to 5Nm, i have one & am just down the road.

look forward to fitting a new front boot. it's a bugger. put the swing arm in a vice to fit it. there will be copious swearing & wrestling. when it's on, fit clip, then install arm into bike.

Timolgra · Oct 13, 2003

i'm hoping to fit the 1100 paralever to my gspd100 this winter keep you posted.
Tim

Howard Millichap · Oct 13, 2003

BOB UK said:
put me on to Dave Mac Propshafts
1-2 Northey Road, Foleshill, Coventry, West Midlands, CV6 5NF, England
Tel: + 44 (0) 1203 683239, Fax: + 44 (0) 1203 581852
http://www.freewebs.com/davemacpropshafts/

I used them to replace the bearings on my 1st shaft. It seemed OK but only lasted 16K before it went :- rattle, bbbbrrrrrrr, BANG!

I bought a new one and modified my swing arm. See thread :- swing arm mod that works.

Then again you could buy my shaft. Comes with a free R100GS for £2500.

nobby · Oct 14, 2003

ecric's driveshaft

hi
I've an ecric dermant shaft bigger bearings grease nipples both ends oh er!

should last for ever postes off of horizons unlimited site people have done 100,000k and still going

cheers nobby the courier

(RIP) maverick · Oct 15, 2003

BOB UK said:
it sounds like the best way to do it is to put the shaft in the paralever then to bolt the whole thing up to the back of the gear box is that right?

Hi Bob,

By doing it the other way around you will have endless cursing trying to get the shaft's splines alligned with the bevelbox side union. Best is to re-assemble the bevel box with the shaft housing, torque the pivot bolts to their correct settings and then drop the shaft in. With less hassle you should be able to slide the shaft into the union(please note less hassle not no hassle). Then refit the swingarm to the frame and then last turn the wheel(if you have not refitted it now is a good time) untill the driveshaft flange aligns with the gearbox flange and the only spanner that fits onto those silly bolts is a 10mm ring spanner(an open end spanner will not work or fit). Take care not to drop those little bolts into the housing as this will cause you a severe stroke/heart attack. After about 15 minutes of turning the bolts mm by mm you should have it pretty tight. Give it that extra 1/4 turn just to feel safe once it feels tight enough.

Hope it helps mate!

:gringo

cookie · Oct 15, 2003

i know everyone will have their own way of doing it but i did it twice, back to back & the other way was certainly better for me. so just for interest, this is what i found:

the trick i found for refitting the bevel box was to angle the UJ splined end up at 45° & lower the box down at a similar angle 'til splines mate, then straighten up & push in. no fiddling about at all.
it can take ages to get splines alligned when dropping shaft down assembled swing arm and entire s/a assy is heavy & awkward to fit to bike, shaft bolts are fiddly & cannot be torqued in situ without bmw tool. of course the existance of said tool hints that BMW do not do it my way either

anyway, whichever way you do it, you're supposed to fit new shaft bolts. dunno why, they're not stretch bolts :confused:

BOB UK · Oct 17, 2003

THANKS CHAPS

Thanks for all the help chaps
Nobby do you know the cost of the ecric dermant shaft? I have phoned him but he’s not there at the moment I would like to fit one of his shafts as that would appear to be the best solution but cost is a factor yes that’s right I’m skint!!!!!
The courier

cookie · Oct 17, 2003

according to this post it's 335 euros.

BOB UK · Oct 24, 2003

Well I did it I sent my shaft and lots of cash off to eric today so I will let you all know when I get it back and how good it is I’m hoping that this will be the end of any driveshaft problems the cost in the end is 285 euros which is about the same as a new B.M.W. shaft mow all iv got to look forward to is the fun of putting it all back together :confused:

BOB UK · Nov 6, 2003

Drive shaft

Just to keep you all up to date my Driveshaft has arived back today so that will give me something to do next week when I have a few days off

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