South of Morocco...... advice/info sought.

Planning a solo trip to Gambia in early Spring '08. Done a fair bit of long distance biking in southern Africa, the US & Canada, as well as two trips to Morocco. I appreciate that north west Africa presents it's own challenges, sand, border crossings and paperwork etc. etc.

Aware that a number of forum members have done similar trips in the recent past. Any pointers, advice, recommendations, etc. would be very much appreciated, particularly re. tyres, spares, accommodation, documentation, insurance issues, and anything else that might be useful.

Thanks

Mike

Met this couple in Morroco last month, Their blog might contain helpful tips.

http://goneforaburton.wordpress.com/

take a look on my homepage for plenty of info. Click the menu button for downloadable tracks, statistics, preparation and waypoints...

have fun

T

mystic said:

Planning a solo trip to Gambia in early Spring '08.

Click to expand...

Did the trip on a 1200GS last Oct/Nov. Used Tourance tyres which were fine but did not do any serious offroad. Apart from bulbs and lenses and puncture repair I didn't take any spares. Only dealer is in Casablanca - Smeia - they are brilliant. You know Morocco so I'll write about further south.

Got the visa for Mauritania in Casablanca. Turn up at consulate about 9 a.m. with passport, fill in forms there and leave them, passport and money (cheaper than buying in the UK) for two visas - going and returning. Picked up passport with visas stamped in it at 3 p.m.

Laayoune expensive but there is a campsite - Camping Le Roi Bedouin - 22m north.

Dakhla modern with plenty of hotels and camping.

Petrol very cheap in the south of Morocco.

South of Dakhla and north of the border you will find the last filling station in Morocco you could stay there and head straight to Nouakchott avoiding Nouadibhou but see later.

Border crossing between Morocco and Mauritania reasonably hassle free but avoid 1200 - 1500, that's lunch break. There is no road but a well defined track - sand and rocks. The area is surrounded by mines and there have been some accidents and deaths. The track is easy to follow. You can also follow the trucks that go through but they are vv slow. There are guides who will lead you through on their mopeds.

A few miles after the border you come to a T junction with a caravan on the right where you can buy insurance for Mori. From here to be on the safe side you need enough fuel for 500k to get to Nouakchott. There are no filling stations on this road. In emergency you can find some Bedouin selling fuel from drums by the road. LITTLE OR NO UNLEADED FUEL SOUTH OF MOROCCO. Fuel is available in Nouadibhou but a bit of a trek there an back for not a particularly interesting place.

The road to Nouakchott is excellent. Take plenty of water. The main hazards are boredom and drifting sand. If you are into offroad then the old piste provides plenty of opportunity but heavy sandy going.

After Nouakchott the road to Senegal gets worse but is fine really. Do avoid Rosso just an endless hassle. Instead take the piste to Djama. As you approach Rosso turn right just afte the Total station and opposite the Taamin Assurance offices. The piste is easily manageable when dry though it could be a different story in the wet. Great place for birdwatching.

The Djama crossing is a breeze. Friendly officials, no hustlers and minimum amounts to pay. You can buy insurance at the border or you could arrange it over the internet with one of the companies in Senegal before you leave here. Best to take out the West Africa cover which will cover you for Senegal and the Gambia and lots of other countries.

The roads in Senegal vary but mostly ok. The border crossing into the Gambia was easy and laid back. The road to the Gambian river crossing and Banjul not good.

I stayed in Bakau, not impressed by Banjul and headed east to Basse Sante Su keeping south of the river. Horrendous road. I was told there was a good new road north of the river. I went back into Senegal to Tambouconda and then south to Kedougou for a few days.

And then there is the long, long trek back!!!!!

Great experience, lovely people, not too much hustle or hassle (apart from Rosso).

PM me if you want any other specific information.

Yeah, right ...

petcul said:

I was told there was a good new road north of the river.

Click to expand...

... don't believe everything you're told ! Although it is 'slightly' better than the Southern road

Thanks all. The more info the better! Thanks particularly to you Petcul. Exactly the sort of stuff I'm after. I'll certainly take you up on your offer ....be in touch shortly.

Any more pearls of wisdom out there?

Some more information

1) Only had 1 set of Tourances which lasted the whole trip - about 10,000 miles. Apart from Djama to Rosso, Serekunda to Tambacounda and some stuff around Kedougou all the roads were tarmac . They may have had huge potholes in them - Nouakchott to St. Louis and Tambacounda to Kaolack particularly - but they were sealed.

I wouldn't describe myself as an offroader but the piste from Djama to Rosso was fine and the road south of the Gambian River was easy to negotiate - only fell once and immediately rescued by the local headmaster.

3) Unless you are going to Mali where I believe you need a carnet, drivers licence V5 - I'mnot too sure if you need MOT or if it would be understood! and local insurance is all you need. Well worth having all your details (see info on UKGSERs Morocco thread) printed on 15 to 20 pages. There are lots of check points for military, police, gendarmerie, customs and even the parks service and some have to fill out your details. Easier to give them a copy that to have to wait and many appreciate your effort. Copies of the main page of your passport are useful too.

I HAVE A MEMORY THAT THERE MAY BE AN ISSUE ABOUT OLDER BIKES CROSSING AT DJAMA BUT CANNOT REMEMBER WHAT IT IS. THERE MAY BE INFORMATION ELSEWHERE ON THIS

I was rarely hassled at checkpoints (though some people I met said they were) although a couple tried to get money from me. I always refused. At one checkpoint the policeman was clearly wanting something to be wrong and got so frustrated that everything was in order that he asked me for my health certificates. P*ssed off when I produced them.

4) I can't quite remember the price of fuel S of Morocco. Not high but S Morocco was by far the cheapest. The government subsidises a lot of things in the south to keep Moroccans there.

I've always replace my cat with a Remus system. There is no unleaded S of Morocco. I bought a 20ltr plastic can with nozzle in Spain and strapped it on to the back of the bike.

5) Never needed camping gear. Took a sleeping bag and only used it once @ a campsite. Used hotels which were cheap apart from Laayoune (UN still there in force and jack the prices up). All the campsites I stayed at had rooms. Mostly ensuite so camping gear is not really necessary.

6) Most people are ahead of me in French. Did Irish and Latin at school. No French. I've picked up a bit since then and that saw me through Anyway English is pretty universal.

Top tips Peter Thanks a lot. My bike is a 2000 reg. so will need to look into the issue re Djama crossing. Think I'll head for the HUBB.

Mike

Tyre question ... any thoughts?

Going down to Gambia very early in New Year. Pondering over tyre issues. Normally use Tourances, but from everything I've read, TKC80's would seem BETTER ABLE to cope with BOTH tarmac & offroad/rock/sand etc. Where's the down side? Less miles for your £'s? How do they handle at speed on tarmac?
If I started the trip with new TKC80's fitted from Santander, is it likely the rear would need replacing en route before end of trip? If yes ....... should I carry a spare? or is there any prospect of buying one on the road?

(Petcul seems to have got a remarkable mileage from his Tourances on a similar trip. see above. )

What's are your thoughts and advice?

I went to the south of Senegal in January, total mileage 8500 miles door to door. I set off with a worn Tourance on the rear and a brand new TKC on the front. I fitted a new TKC rear, which I took with me, in Mauritania. Both tyres (and both shocks) were shot by the time I got home. Bald knobblies on a heavily laden bike, in snow, on the motorway was 'interesting' You can do the entire trip on tarmac if you wish and a lot of the off-road stuff can easily be done on Tourances. I would only take TKCs if you intend to go into the sandy areas of the desert but that's not really a good idea on a laden GS

You won't be able to get tyres once you're below Morocco but they are easy to fit if you take some with you. If you do change tyres stash them somewhere safe, you just might need them on the way back up. Also, make sure your suspension is up to it, even the tarmac roads are very badly pot-holed in the south of Mauritania and Senegal.

Check the HUBB on Horizons Unlimited for current information on visas and border crossings as things change frequently.
Andy.

Thanks Andy

Just as a matter of interest, did your 8.5K miles door to door include a return sea crossing / UK to Spain?

Agree entirely about Tourances being OK for good pistes ...... my last trip to Maroc was on them. Only real problem with them was encountered on mud following rain!

I know where you're coming from regarding heavily laden GS's in the sand ..... been there more than a few times .....bloody hard work getting it upright again! Definitely not the right bike!

Would you advise taking a spare rear shock? or just keep eagle-eyed for potholes the bike is now 6 yrs old / 32,000 miles.

Last point. Have you heard anything about the need for a carnet for vehicles over 5 yrs old for entry into Mauritania? Some recent change in regulations? Just put a question on the HUBB about it.

Thanks

Mike

Hi Mike, there was no problems getting older vehicles into Mauritania and I think that's still the case there. Senegal has an official restriction on cars over 5 years old but I don't think it applies to bikes. All these matters can be resolved with the right attitude though. I got into Senegal with absolutely no import paperwork at all and it just caused a few questions when exiting the country.

I went Portsmouth - Bilbao and returned the same way.

Personally, I would fit a new rear shock at least before a trip like this, I wouldn't take a spare though, excess weight is the enemy

Andy.

I'm doing this trip to Gambia in March next year leaving Easter 2008. Done it in 2005 and Morocco in 2006 (Ill and broke in 2007 so missed out )

As advised above, check out Horizons Unlimited for up to date info. Mauri visas has changed and now in Rabat and not Casablanca. Embassy in London has closed so you need to go to Paris if you want longer term visa. Alternatively buy in Rabat or buy three day visa at border. We originally bought full visa from London but had all our paperwork stolen in Spain. Got replacement in Casablanca. Next time will just buy at border. At Rabat you are depenant on their opening times and you may have to wait 24 hours for it to be processed.

Re shock. I've fitted new Wilbers shocks to mine. They will spec the shocks exactly to your weight and luggage load and riding style so recommended. I've just fitted Touratech 41 lt tank as I don't fancy extra jerry cans. Also new Wunderlich comfy seat.

Re tyres. Sensible option would be to fit brand new Tourances and they should last entire trip. But if you were sensible you wouldn't be riding to the Gambia. I think I'll fit new TKCs and take a spare rear as I can easily change tyres myself in Southern Morocco and can then have more fun in Mauri, Senegal and Gambia. We're planning on going up river in Gambia. ridden flat out 2 up with luggage and TKCs still OK but noisy and wear out quick on road

Definitely avoid Rosso and go via Diama. Once over border into Senegal, head straight to Zebra Bar just south of St. Louis. Rest there for a day or two, it is fantastic for recharging your energy and just chilling out.

As Petcul says, prepare at least 20 copies of your personal data (referred to as a "fiche"). This should list the info contained in your passport plus everything else that a policeman might want to know eg details of bike etc. Giving them a copy at police checkpoints makes life a lot easier and quicker. Never be in too much of a hurry though. Sometimes we were delayed only because they insisted we take tea with them whilst they practised their English.

Take plenty of Euros cash, it is widely accepted or converted into the local currency. Not many cash machines in Mauri but plenty in Senegal. Surprisingly good number of internet cafes even in most remote desert areas so no excuse for not posting back on here.

Let me know if you want any more info.

Sid

Sid Horman said:

I'm doing this trip to Gambia in March next year leaving Easter 2008. Done it in 2005 and Morocco in 2006 (Ill and broke in 2007 so missed out )

Click to expand...

Sid,

Really useful. Thanks. This being my first time south of Morocco, I'm needing to suss out quite a few things! Fortunately, several such as Petcul and yourself are very willing to share your knowledge & experience, both on here and on the HUBB.

Questions:

Would you advise having the "fiche" translated into French? (My French is of the "just about get by with difficulty" variety.)

Regarding the Mauri Visa (and bearing in mind that there will be a gap of perhaps 3/4weeks between my entering Mauri and exciting back into Morocco), can I get a visa to cover me for that sort of time? Planning probably to get this in Rabat.

Shocks: suggestion makes sense!

"...but if you were sensible you wouldn't be riding to the Gambia"
At the risk of sounding thick could you elaborate?

Doubtless I'll be back in touch. Thanks Sid for your kind offer.


Mike

There's an example of a French-language fiche (spreadsheet download) on post #28 of the Morocco Knowledgebase.

Tim

Thanks Tim

Number 6 said:

Hi Mike, there was no problems getting older vehicles into Mauritania and I think that's still the case there

Click to expand...

Thanks Andy ..... real help & sound advice