DURBAN TO DUBLIN

Tomorrow Roger Scheffer, Howard Scott and Jaco Swanepoel will leave Durban, South Africa and ride North.

The planned route is:

Mozambique, Milawi, Tanzania, Kenya, Ethiopia, Sudan, Egypt

overland

the air freight to Naples, before Italy, Austria, France, England, Wales, Ireland to Dublin.

They are riding to raise money for "Pebbles" charity which supports the orphaned and abused children of the workers in the SA wine industry.

I shall join them in Austria and ride back for a reception at the Children's Hospital of Wales and BBQ at my house.

All contributions gratefully received for this worthwhile charity.

Love to y'all

Further info at:


www.durban2dublin.iblog.co.za

www.mototour.co.za

www.bmwmotorrad.co.za

http://www.pebblesproject.co.za/

http://www.noahs-ark-appeal.org/

I was wondering where / why Dublin came into it but I've since read the blog so won't be asking that particular silly question

Fair play to them, it'll be some ride

Any idea when they're due in this part of the world ?

Eish Amazambana! Two months for this trip, it's going to be tough. If you have more info on when and where they will be in the UK and if it will be possible to join them for a ride along their way, do post it here as I would be interested to support the boys from my native country and province!!

Hi

Calais Dover ferry booked for 11.55 on 24th June

Then ride to my place for beers and BBQ (I'll post details at a later date)

Then Riders, Cardiff to Children's Hospital of Wales 11am 25th June before planned meet with Pavey et al Brecon.

I hope to get media cover of trip to Kids hospital so a good number of BMWs would be fun - I can certainly vouch for Roger being good company. He is certainly well qualified for the trip.

Then the 3 are off to Hollyhead 26th JUne.


Having said that, I've not heard from them for a week and there is nil on the blog, so either:

They are too busy enjoying themselves
They have been abducted by aliens
they cannot get near an interweb cafe
They don'y love me any more

Update from Blog

Roger Howard and Jaco have left!



Friday, 24th April - After all the months of planning and worrying the day of departure finally arrived.
BMW Auto Umhlanga hosted a cocktail party for (Roger, Howard and Jaco) with the press there to see us of. It was amazing and mind blowing for us to walk into the reception area, realising approximately 150 people were there to wish us well and on our way.

The Mayor of Durban the Honorable Obed Omlaba presented us with a letter of greetings to hand over to the Mayor of Dublin. We started our bikes, and very nervously rode out of the reception area. I think the thought was going through all of our minds that we dare not drop our bikes now!


On Saturday morning we were back at Auto Umhlanga bright and early to meet up with a group of riders that escorted us out of Durban and rode with us as far as Empangeni. What a fantastic sight to see three Dbn-Dub bikes followed by approximately 60 BMW motorbikes down the highway!

The trip has been planned and researched down to the last detail, but something’s where out of our hands and control, one of which was our visa applications. By Friday night we still did not have our Schengen visas and all the public holidays this past month did not help the situation.

We decided that we were still leaving Durban on our planned date and would travel around doing a bit of site seeing in Zululand, slowly making our way to the Swaziland border.


We have been welcomed and looked after by the locals in every town we visited. Our first stop was in Melmoth to attend a Hawaiian party at the country club. On our arrival at 19:00 we were asked to ride our bikes into the hall where the party was held. Well, I was riding in front leading Howard and Jaco when we had to cross over a small patch of grass, but in this grass was a brick lurking and the next thing I knew I was lying on the ground with my bike upside down in front of the Melmoth crowd (fully loaded) Howard and Jaco of course sat on their bikes and I heard them saying “Lets see if he can pick that up “ Not very easy! Well in true Zululand form the party was fantastic and a good time was had by all.

On Sunday we made our way to Eshowe for the next rest stop. While waiting outside the Pick and Pay to buy a few rations we ran into Dave Wylie the GM of Shakaland who invited us to lunch at Shakaland. We were entertained to a traditional Zulu dance in the great hut. This is the same venue where Kingsley Holgate starts all his expeditions. After a lovely lunch and a quick photo shoot with Larry from the local newspaper, The Zululand Observer, we had to say good bye.


Erick Howe invited us to stay over at his game farm in Empangeni and treated us to a braai in the African bush.

We are now sitting on the Swaziland border and waiting for Howard to catch up to us with the visas.

He volunteered to head back to Durban to collect them. Today we cross into Mozambique and will push on as far as we can in the next few days to make up time.

Update from Roger's blog:

Wednesday 29th April was a big disappointment day for us. Howard arrived at the Swazi Border to link up with Jaco and I. With our passports and visas in hand (So we thought) on inspecting the passports we discovered that Howard’s UK visa had been approved, but someone forgot to stick the visa into his passport.

After much phoning around the British Embassy in Pretoria told us that Howard’s only and quickest option to sort the problem out would be to go to Pretoria and collect the visa. We sat and had a quick Chinese parliament and agreed that Howard would ride up to Pretoria while Jaco and I continued on into Mozambique.

Howard rode up to Pretoria and sorted his Visa then rode on to Nelspruit to overnight. A distance of over 1000 Km’s, All in one day! ( Iron Butt )

In the meantime Jaco and I rode through to Nyambane where we overnighted at Vic and Adelaid’s bed and breakfast at the Nyambane/Lendela T Junction.

We had an early night and the next morning we rode up to Velencoulos, I need to add here that the road from Maputo to Nyambane is very good hard top, A good speed can be maintained between the towns, A word of warning though, When entering the small towns along the way beware of the cops, they love to pull you over if they suspect you are traveling anything over the 60 km an hour speed limit in the villages.


After Nyambane the road detereats badly and becomes one potholed road with a little bit of tar in between.

At Velencoulos Jaco and I went off to find our accommodation, Which is a lovely lodge ( Blue Water ) right on the beach with a fantastic view out to see and looking across to the Islands of Bazarouto and the Archapelagos.

Getting there mind you was a bit hair raising. 6km’s of very soft beach sand track, and this was done on our bikes with all the kit loaded. The 2M’s tasted really good when we eventually got to the lodge.

During the night we had been trying to get hold of Howard and check on his progress, But unknown to us he had a problem with his cell international roaming connection and was out of comm ’s.

The next morning Jaco and I decided to start back tracking to try and find Howard. Luckily and with much sighs of relief we found him riding down the road towards Velencoulo, so we did not have to travel to far back to fetch him.

Howard in the meantime had had his fair share of drama, on his way to his overnight stop at Nelspruit an oncoming car did not dim there lights. Blinding him and causing him to ride off the road, falling hard. He is now nursing a very bruised rib. Jaco is now playing nurse maid and feeding Howard with Voltaren tablets, Seems to be working as Howard has so far turned the offer of a Voltaren injection down. (Can’t be that sore ?)

After the fall the next day when Howard was riding up to meet us in Mozambique, He was stopped in one of those villages I spoke about earlier and the long arm of the law wanted a fine for speeding (112km’s in a 60km zone) after talking to the cop in Howard’s best persuasive way he got off with a R50.00 donation to the police children’s fund and was once again on his way.

Saturday we spent the day relaxing around the pool at Blue Water Lodge and basically recharging our batteries.

Today, Sunday we left Velancoulos and took the EN 1 road heading North to a town called Chimoio in Northern Mozambique, We have been hosted by Pannar Seed to the use of there very comfortable house and Felix the local Pannar guy here took us out to dinner this evening.

I need to here add a little amusing incident that happened when we got into the house.

Jaco was having a look around, And on inspecting the bath room he walked out with this puzzled look on his face, We asked him what was wrong and he turned around and pointed to a basin that was set about 1 foot of the floor, Jaco wanted to know how the heck he was going to get down so low to brush his teeth. Well when we explained to him what a Biddy’ was the look on his face was worth a million dollars.

Tomorrow we leave for Tete where we will overnight before crossing into Malawi. Before leaving Chimoio we have been invited to visit a local School here in town run by a group called TIOS , The children here at this school are taught how to live and survive in an environment that has suffered from civil war and now hiv/aids. We are looking forward to seeing how this group of volunteers is making a difference to the future generation of Mozambique.
Posted by Roger Scheffer at Tuesday, May 05, 2009

update from Roger's blog

Thursday 7th - today we left Nkhata Bay heading up through the Malawian town of Nzuze. We left Nkhata in fantastic clear weather perfect for motorcycle riding. 300 km’s from Nkhata we stopped at the frontier town of Karonga, Where we had a quick lunch. Flat chicken all round, we were looking forward to a lovely succulent chicken, yea right!!!! After a 45 minute wait our lunch arrived. We all agreed that the chicken must have been the last surviving chicken in town and could run the fastest, Never had we eaten a tougher chicken. Anyway food is food and this is Africa. (Not for sissies)

After Karonga it is a short ride to the Malawi / Tanzania border, the border formalities where fairly quick and painless. But the money touts where a complete pain and a bunch of rogues. I changed R500 to local Tanzania Shillings, only to discover that evening when we arrived in Mbeya that I had been ripped of to the tune of R300. Lesson learned.

From the border we rode up and over the highlands heading for Mbeya , The last 100 km’s was ridden in freezing cold pouring rain. Arriving in Mbeya at 5:30, cold, wet and wanting a hot shower, We met up with Johnson Mayo, The local Pannar representative, He gave us two options for over – nighting. Ride another 50km’s to the coffee farm, where we could camp or go 600 meters down the road where a Swiss priest runs a monastery where for the equivalent of R 60 per person we could get a room and a hot meal. No debate here. The monastery was the place of choice.
After a basic dinner we had a comfortable nights sleep and woke in the morning woke and with a prayer of thanks looked outside to see a clear sky and perfect day for riding.

Friday 8th - After a visit into town to exchange money ( at a proper Bureau De Change this time ) and a quick haircut, We stopped off at Johnson’s, Pannar office to say our goodbye’s, We then headed out of Mbeya for the 450 Km ride to our next stop off point. Baobab Lodge, Situated on the banks of the Great Rua River.

The road to Baobab is the main route from Dar es Salaam to Zambia and Malawi and is very busy with huge trucks and buses heading in both directions. The drivers of these vehicles seem intent on wiping motorcyclists of the road. We had to ride keeping our wits about us the whole way. There were a few near misses where buses would overtake other vehicles with scant regard for us heading towards them, We had to get of the road and out of the way a number of times to avoid being run over.

Arriving at Baobab Lodge we were welcomed by the owner Darren Coetzee. He showed us to our chalets and after a good shower we retired to the bar over looking the Rua River for a few cold Killimangaro’s ( A fairly good beer ) The cook got busy with preparing dinner for us and at about 20h00 we sat down to a very large plate of beef stew each.

After dinner we headed for bed and as soon as the generator was switched off the camp is in complete darkness and dead quite. Perfect for a good nights sleep.

Saturday 9th - This morning we have decided to take a rest day here at Baobab Lodge and do some washing of clothes and basically recharge our batteries. But having said that, straight after breakfast this morning what do we do? We jump on our bikes and go for a ride into the bush and off the beaten track to have a look around. The valley down here is dry bushveld with the River running through it. I have never seen so many Baobab trees growing in one area as there are here. It is absolutely beautiful, and wild.
Tomorrow we head off to Moshi and hopefully get to see Mount Kilimanjaro. On the way we will be riding through the middle of the Mikumi National Park where sighting of Buffalo and Elephant are common, that should be interesting on a bike.

update from Roger's Blog

10th Sunday - Today we woke very early as we had a 650 km journey ahead of us. We rode from Baobab Camp in the Rua Valley to Moshi in the North of Tanzania; Moshi is at the foot of Mnt Kilimanjaro. Unfortunately due to heavy rain and mist right down to the ground we did not see the mountain.

On route we rode through the Mikumi National Park. All of us rode with eyes wide open. We had been warned that there are Lions, Buffalo and Elephant in the park. On a motorcycle it’s not a very good idea to bump into any of the above. We did see a lot of antelope and giraffe and as we were getting to the end of the park and starting to relax we rode around a bend and there in front of us was a herd of elephant with their young. They seemed relaxed and not to disturbed by us on our bikes so we stopped to take a few pics then headed on.

As we got closer to Moshi the traffic volume increased and one driver of a Toyota Land Cruiser (I think had had a good Sunday lunch) He came hurtling up behind me and overtook at a great speed almost taking me and my panniers with him. About 100 meters down the road he did the same to a local fellow who was lifting his girlfriend on his motorcycle, this poor guy was not so lucky and was knocked clean off his bike. The two of them ended up in a ditch and the driver of the Cruiser did not even slow down or stop! Jaco pulled over to check on the riders and except for a few bruises and bumps and very shaken up they where ok. Made us very conscious of the dangers of driving in outer - Africa.

After 8 hours riding in weather that alternated from hot to very cold and wet, we arrived in Moshi and headed for the Keys hotel where we checked in to a room, All three of us sharing one very small “rondavel” then headed to the bar for a well earned Kilimanjaro (Beer) then headed for bed and a good nights sleep.

Monday we hit the road with the intention of making it through to Nairobi where we are due to fit new tires to the bikes. on route we stopped at the Pannar office in Arusha to say hi to Zak the area manager, While we were at the office Zak phoned to check where our tyres were and was told that they only left KZN on Monday morning and are only expected to land in Nairobi today.

We then decided to find a place to stay over in Arusha as accommodation is a bit cheaper here than in Nairobi. Zak offered to take us around in his car to find a place to stay. Now this is the first time we have been in a car since leaving SA three weeks ago, Hurtling around in someone else’s car amongst all the maniac drivers in this place is something I would rather do without.

Anyway we survived the trip and found a very comfortable camp site about 20 km’s out of town at a snake park owned by an ex SA couple, Ma and BJ . Ma is Kork and Dozi Ballingtons sister and was very happy to see us bike riders stop over at there place. Apparently my mate Mike Grant was here last week. Sorry to have missed him. Mike used to be my sponsor when I was still racing motor moto cross for his Kawasaki team. This site is on the road to the Serengeti and is a stop over for all the overlander tourist trucks on there way south or north.


Tuesday - Today we are relaxing and using the time waiting for our tyres to service bikes and change oil.

Talking about the tyres, we have been amazed to see how well our tyres have held out. We are on TKC’S and run at 3 bar pressure, except on the sand roads and gravel. We have so far traveled 6800 km’s on the tyres and looking at them we could possibly do another 2000 km’s. We are not going to chance this though and will sit here and wait for our new tyres. Hopefully they will be here this afternoon, this sitting around waiting is very frustrating and we are itching to get back on the road and continue north.

Tomorrow we head for Nairobi fit tires then start the long haul to Ethiopia.

Hey Bladerunner

Was wondering if you were going to meet Roger & Co, solo or with a few others and if you would mind another rider to accompany. My uncle was one of the guys that rode with Roger when he left KZN in SA a few weeks ago. I would like to meet up with the trio when they hit Europe or UK somewhere and ride a part of the way with you guys???

Many thanks

Hi GS biker


Ask me in 3 weeks!!! My registrar (Kenyan) is having trouble sorting her european visa, so I may or may not be alone. Either way I'm sure you would be welcome.

I'm riding down to Graz for a conference between June 16-20 and hope/plan to meet the boys at a campsite near Innsbruck on Saturday 20th.

The plan is
21st Titisee, 22nd Geradmer, 23rd up near Calaise, 24th to Cardiff

Most days are planned around 250-300 mile with best biking roads possible, Last day in France will be a bit of a slep 300+ mile autoroute.

cheers

update from blog

Wednesday 13th - Today we were up bright and early and left Arusha to head for Nairobi, where we were due to collect our tyres from the Pannar office.

The ride up to Nairobi was uneventful crossing through the Tanzania / Kenya border was a breeze . Stamping passports and filling in vehicle registration documents took less than 20 minutes.

The road from Arusha to Nairobi is under construction so for most of the way we were traveling on very bumpy, dusty gravel road. Passing groups of brightly dressed Masai men and women at the side of the road and at one small village we came across our first camel train. It gives one the feeling of really being in outer Africa.

We were enjoying the ride on a fairly quiet road when we suddenly had a huge wake up when we got to the Nairobi / Mombassa T Junction. Wow!! What a shock. I have never seen so many trucks, busses and cars on one road at the same time trying to travel in two directions with absolute no regard for rules or lanes. We had trucks coming at us from the front ( Wrong side of the road ) trucks next to us all hooting and driving at breakneck speed, Sitting on a motorcycle riding through this lot was frightening to say the very least. Leaving the BMW Dealer on the Friday night on our send off with everyone watching was far less intimidating than this mess.

At one stage the traffic got so hectic that we decided it was safer to ride through the veld away from the road. Anyway 50 km’s later we got to the dual highway that leads into Nairobi and with a sigh of relief we headed off to Pannar office.

At Pannar we met up with Denson, Tom and Valentine, the friendly and very helpful staff that run the office. Denson informed us that the tyres had landed but would only be clear of customs at 19h00 that night, so after a cup of coffee and some chicken for lunch we were back on our bikes heading for our overnight camp site, Nairobi National Park Camp Ground. Arriving at the camp ground we were met by Helen and Peter the managers that run the camp, Camping is 5 Dollars US and Chalets 25 Dollars US. While talking to Helen and deciding whether to camp or take the sissy option for a chalet, the heavens opened up and the rain came pouring down. No contest, Chalets it was.

Thursday 14th - This morning we headed back to Pannar office and with a huge sigh of relief we saw our tyres had arrived. We had also decided today that we were going to try and sort out our Sudan visas at the Embassy here in Nairobi. We figured that with the local Pannar guy ( Tom ) to help us this would be easier than trying to sort visas in Ethiopia, As originally planed.

To save time we also decided that we would take the bikes to a local Motorcar and Bike dealer and ask them to fit the tryes for us. After dropping the bikes at the dealer we all hopped into a taxi, a small Toyota Corolla, the driver and Howard in the front, Jaco, Tom and I squashed in the back, I felt like a piece of ham on a sandwich squashed between the two big blocks on either side of me . To close the doors Howard had to push them closed from the outside. Anyway traveling by taxi is far better than trying to negotiate the chaos that is Nairobi traffic. First stop Sudan Embassy, After getting the necessary clearance from the Security official at the gate we were in, we took all our documents that we had spent the morning photo copying and filling in and handed them over to Mona, the unsmiling lady behind the desk and with a silent prayer hoped that she would sort out the visas. The first thing she does is take the whole pile of papers from us an drop the lot into a rubbish bin and calmly hands us a single form and says “ Fill In “ … off we go to do this and ten minutes later we are back at her desk to give the forms, only to be told that we need a letter from our SA Embassy ( Which is on the other side of town ) stating that we are SA citizens and there is no problem for us to travel through Sudan. The time is now 11h00 am and the Sudan Embassy closes at 12h00. Smiley tells us that we will have to come back tomorrow! Well I nearly flipped! Thanks to Jaco and his ever friendly smile he asked her if we could at least leave our documents with her so she could at least start the process. She agreed to this.

Off we go again in the taxi at breakneck speed to the SA Embassy. There we met Paula and Helen, Two very helpful and efficient Embassy employers, They both told us that the letter was not necessary, and offered to phone the Sudan Embassy to try and sort out our problem. Eventually they get through to the Attaché in the Sudan Embassy and he says for us to come back and give them our passports and he will arrange our visas. Ladies thank you very much!

Back at the Sudan Embassy the security fellow went off to call our happy Mona. We handed over our passports and was told by Mona to come back tomorrow at 12 to collect our passports and visas. Before we are allowed to leave the security fellow tells us he needs a little something for helping us. (What he did I still don’t know) Except what he is employed to do. Anyway we are in Africa and inside a Sudan Embassy with a huge gate between us and the outside world and the guy with the key is standing between us and this gate. 50 Dollars US slipped into his hand and vanished so fast that you would have missed it if you had blinked. Second’s later the gate is opened and we are out.

Back to the dealer we go to collect the bikes. Shock number two. An invoice is handed to us for the job. An equivalent of R 450 per tyre is asked for. In SA tyre fitting costs about R50 each. And this was done the whole time the dealer is smiling at us and making small talk. Nairobi must be the most chaotic and expensive city in Africa.

Leaving the dealer a lot poorer we headed off to Carnivore a well known restaurant in Nairobi for a late well earned lunch.

Friday 15th - Today we head back to the Sudan Embassy to collect our visas and get back on the road headed for Isiola / Moyale then into Ethiopia, where we hear things are a bit cheaper than Kenya. Hooray for that …

Shocking update!

Friday 15th - Today we were at the Sudan Embassy at 10 am. Having been told by happy Mona yesterday that the visas would only be ready at 3pm, we figured that with a little charm we could hopefully convince her that we needed to get out of Nairobi and off to Isiola as soon as possible. Well the charm worked, this was in the form of a 500 Shilling note. The documents suddenly appeared from the bottom of the pile to the top and with in 15 minutes we were out of the Embassy and on the road. Negotiating Nairobi traffic is a nightmare, our South African taxis would be intimidated with this lot. Trucks, Busses and cars traveling at breakneck speed all over the road, and bumper to bumper. At times we were riding on the pavement, or what they call a pavement. At home I would ride my Enduro bike on a track that is the same as their pavements.
Anyway after about an hour of this madness we were out and on the “open” road heading for our overnight stop at Isiola. Arriving in Isiola at 17h00 in the afternoon and being fairly tired we headed for the first hotel we could find that looked decent. We booked into the Bomen Lodge. This turned out to be a good choice as the rooms were clean and comfortable, downstairs in the parking lot we met up with a Mr Gringo, the local “smous”. He had bracelets and handmade knifes for sale and could arrange anything that you could ask for, we opted to stick with buying a few bracelets and Howard and I each bought a hand made ornamental knife.

Supper menu consisted of a choice of camel meat or goat. Goat it was for us. We had seen some camels along the road just out of town and couldn’t bring ourselves to eat something that has such beautiful wide eyes.

Saturday 16th - We met downstairs for an early breakfast and had good intentions of trying to push through to Mayole (500 km’s) away in one day. Well that idea was scrapped when we chatted to a local guy in the dining room. He asked where we were headed, and on telling him he raised his eye’s to the heavens and told us that even doing that road in two days and getting through, we will be men just to have survived the trip.
Something else that alarmed us was the local UN representative that was staying over at the hotel. He was amazed that we were not going to join the military convoy that was escorting vehicles through. More about the route just now , I just want to say right here and now, having done the trip from Isiola to Mayole, and survived we are now definitely men among men. To those who have been before us, we salute every single one of you. To those that are planning to do this route, all I say is be Mentally, Physically and Mechanically prepared for probably one of the worst desolate roads that you could ride on in Africa.

Back to the days ride, we left Isiola just after breakfast having decided to break the trip in two and head for Marsabit a mere 250 Km’s away. The first 20 km’s was a breeze, The Chinese are tarring the road and it is a beautiful highway. We were looking at each other thinking that this is not a bad way to travel and what was all the fuss about. Although there was a lot of military activity with truck loads of troops and land rovers filled with armed officers moving about, we wondered about the decision of not joining the convoy. But what the heck we are after all South Africans and there is not much that we haven’t already survived.

At the end of the 20km tar section we got onto the gravel. This road now started to deteriate rapidly, changing from gravel and sand to corrugated ruts. These corrugations were so bad that the rear shock was in a constant state of movement. This combined with the heat of the day eventually got the better of the shocks; I was about 4 km’s ahead of Howard and Jaco when I suddenly felt my bike hopping about like an uncontrolled horse. Stopping I climbed off the bike and looked with a sinking heart at my rear shock which was now completely blown and all the oil had leaked past the seal which had melted. Knowing Howard was coming up behind me with the spare shock I sat under a tree to wait for them to catch up. After about half an hour of waiting in the blazing sun and with Howard and Jaco still not catching up, and with the thoughts of the bandit activity in the area I decided to press on slowly broken shock and all to try and reach the Catholic mission station ( at Laisamius ) and wait there in safety for the other two .

On route to the mission I could not travel faster than 15 km’s per hour, if I tried to go any faster the bike would buck and jump around the road uncontrollably. A little bit down the road I saw a camel train of about 100 camels being driven along by some local boys and ladies all dressed in their beautiful traditional clothing. I stopped to take a picture of them… then all HELL broke lose. The women came running screaming at me with this wild look in their eyes, and out of the bush these kids also came running at me! They were carrying sticks and stones and looked all intent on using me as a target. I decided that I was not going to stick around to talk my way out of this, so rode off as fast as my poor broken bike would allow. I managed to get away safely but not before collecting a rock on the helmet and a few whacks across my back from the kids.

While all this was going on, Unbeknown to me Howard and Jaco were having drama of there own. Jaco’s shock had also blown and he was now also crawling along at a snails pace heading for Laisamus. Our safe emergency RV point. I must add here that both Jaco and I had BMW stock shocks on our bikes and Howard has Ohlins shocks, ( Food for thought for the BMW Tech people ) When I reached Laisamus I met Father Edward and asked if he minded if I sat there to wait for the other guys, he of course agreed. When Howard and Jaco arrived they had also had a run in with a local lady. But this time she was armed with an AK 47 Assault rifle and looked as though she knew how to use it! Jaco looked at her and immediately she brought the weapon up to her shoulder and took aim at him, well needless to say they both got away from there as quickly as possible.

We now sat with the problem of two broken shocks and one spare, Jaco being Jaco said that as I was the eldest I should fit the shock to my bike and we will then order a new one to be sent up from SA for collection in Khartoum, still 5 days ride away.

While Howard and I got busy fitting the shock Jaco went on ahead slowly heading for Marsabit, our over night stop. Once we had finished the fitting we said our good byes to Father Edward and headed off after Jaco. We now decided to ride for twenty km then stop for half an hour rest in an effort to save the wear on the shocks, A very long four hours later we finally arrived at Marsabit to meet up with Jaco who had got there without further incident and had spent the time looking for an over night sleeping place, which he had found. This was a local fellow who had a very comfortable hut where we could sleep for the night.

On route to Marsabit Howard and I met a Spanish couple, Aitor and Laura that were riding bicycles around the world, amazing people. They had come down through Africa from Spain via India and were now traveling down to SA and will then head home up the West Coast, They had already been on the road one and a half years and only expect to reach home in two years time. We chatted to them about the road conditions, and when they replied that what we had just come through was nothing compared to the next days section from Marsabit to Mayole. Our hearts sank.

In Marsabit we were taken by a local “guide” type fellow to get something to eat in town. The first place he took us to was dodgy to say the least. I think even the most hardy cockroaches in SA would be scared of going in there. As politely as we possibly could tell him in our tired exhausted state we declined to go in there. Instead we rode around town until we found something reasonably clean looking. We ordered a plate of goat meat with bread and cokes to wash it all down, and then headed back to our hut for bed and sleep.

Sunday 17th - We were up early and ready to ride and tackle the next leg of the journey through to Mayole, a mere 200 km’s away. As we rode out of town past an old volcanic crater and looked down the mountain towards the Kaisut Desert that we had to cross over, we knew then that we were in for another long day in the saddle. The “road” was made up of volcanic rock and stone with these terrible corrugations the whole way, with a maximum speed of 20km’s per hour and once again stopping every 20km’s for half an hour cool down rest the day was very LOOOONG. At one stage we were taking water in our mouths and squirting this onto our shocks to cool them down. They were getting so hot the water would turn to steam. Poor Jaco in the mean time was bouncing through all this on his pogo stick bike.

At mid day we came to a small settlement in the middle of the desert called Torbi and decided to take a short break. We found a “tavern “and ordered coke each and a Chiapta bread each. This is a flat pancake type bread eaten normally with their goat stew. We opted for the bread on its own, getting a bit sick of goat now. There was a guy in the village that could speak a bit of English and on enquiring if our bikes would be safe parked outside the tavern he says of course. Apparently there is no crime in this village. Looking at the sword strapped to his belt and the glint in his eye I had no doubt why, plus the fact that for miles around there is nothing but a rocky desert.

After eating we said our goodbyes to the law enforcer and started our last section of the days travel. With in 15 km’s we crossed over a mountain range and left the desert behind us. The road we were now on was gravel and clay, and looking at it we all said a silent prayer of thanks that it was not raining. It had rained here about two days before and the tracks left by the trucks that had got stuck here were deeper than our bikes. The last thing we needed now after crossing the desert would have been to get through a muddy mess.

Arriving at Mayole at 18h00 (Having left Marsabit at 07h00 ) the Kenyan border official told us the border was closed. We pleaded with him to stamp us through, he thankfully did and he then made a phone call to the customs guy to come down and stamp our Carnets.

Leaving Kenya we entered Ethiopia and arrived at the Border control office to be told that they were closed and only open tomorrow at 2 PM. We looked at the guy in disbelief until he explained that Ethiopia time is deferent to our time. 2 pm to them is 8 am to us and they are still in the year 2001.

We were now informed that as we had already checked out of Kenya and now non returnable we could stay at the hotel right next to the border office. As we had no choice we moved in, I have seen compounds on farms in SA that are cleaner than this. Closing our minds as to what might be lurking in the rooms and beds we settled down for the night.

Monday 18th - At about 4 in the morning the local Mullah decided to wake us and the whole community up with his calling to the Mosque.

We were back at the border control office at exactly 8am and very quickly cleared through customs and on our way.

We headed for the town of Dilla, half way to Addis Abba . For the last 100 km’s to Dilla we traveled through village after village, the road was lined with a constant stream of people, all either waving to us, shouting at us and the occasional stone being thrown at us. We started off waving in return but after the third stone being thrown we gave up waving.

Arriving in Dilla we asked a local guy to show us to a place stay for the night, He took us to a local hotel where we booked in for the night, when we wanted take a shower on opening the tap there was no water. I don’t think this place has had any water in years. The manager brought us a bucket of cold water each to wash out of and that was our bath for the evening. When we went to sit on the veranda we then found out that we had been booked into the local brothel! We ate our dinner while watching the antics of the lady’s of the night going about what they do best. As soon as we had eaten we went off to our rooms and insuring that the doors were securely locked we had a good nights sleep.

Tuesday 19th - After getting a breakfast of bread and coke at a local tavern in the town of Dilla we headed on our way to Addis Abba. Today was uneventful and we arrived in Addis at about 15h00. Addis is the Capital of Ethiopia; don’t let this fool you into thinking that it is a fantastic city. The roads are more like broken tracks with potholes everywhere filled with water so deep that when you ride through them the water comes up to the foot pegs . We were amazed to ride over a very fancy interchange in the centre of town and thought, wow the roads are not so bad after all. This inter change was about 500 meters long. Coming off the inter change we were back onto the potholes. We wondered where the rest of the money went that was earmarked to complete the road?

I need to add here that on entering Ethiopia we now have to ride on the right side of the road, gets rather scary when traveling around a corner and find a bus coming at you, you have to think very quickly as to who has the right of way .

This evening I got a very bad case of upset stomach, I think the goat meat has finally got to me. I went off to bed at 18H00 with a high fever and stomach cramps, I took some tablets from the medical bag swallowed them and climbed into bed to sweat the fever out.

Wednesday 20th - Woke this morning feeling much better, and today being a rest day we are spending the day servicing bikes and trying to sort out Jaco’s shock, we are planning to leave here in the morning and head up to Khartoum, Three days ride away…

update from Roger's Blog

Thursday 21st - This morning we were up bright and early with Jaco in high spirits hoping that the mechanic that was modifying a shock for him would be able to fit it this morning.

I need to explain a bit here about the shock. You all know that Jaco has been riding his bike now for about 1000 km’s without a shock; He is basically riding on a spring with absolutely no damping. This has the effect of sending the bike into uncontrollable bouncing all over the road when riding over even the slightest bump in the road. And believe me the roads in these countries are by no means the smoothest.

Yesterday Jaco was taken to a “Bike Shop” where the “Mechanic “told him they could not fix his shock, but they would be able to find a shock that may fit. We were told to come back later in the afternoon and they would do the job. Well at 16:30 that afternoon Jaco and I were back at the shop looking at this second hand old Russian Lada shock. The “Mechanic” was convinced that he could get it to fit. So desperate was Jaco to have a decent ride that he agreed to give it a go. We asked the cost and nearly had a heart attack when they said 600 US Dollars !!! (That’s almost R 6000.00) Desperate times calls for desperate measures.

Within no time the old shock was out and the “new” one was being measured for fitting. A vernier caliper was produced and the “ mechanic” says proudly he can make this work. He then takes the shock, puts it in a vice and sets to it with an angle grinder. This is after taking the measurements with a vernier. How precise can one be with an angle grinder we asked ourselves? After a few trial fittings and the shock still would not fit out came the 4 pound hammer and the top mounting bracket was hit into an oblong shape to try and make it fit. Eventually at 21:30 that night they agreed that this was not going to work.

Jaco and I then suggested they take my old broken shock, cut the mounting brackets of weld them on the second hand shock and that may work. This they agreed to do. We left my old shock with them and headed of to the lodge to sleep after telling them we would be back in the morning at 9:00.

Now back to Thursday morning. On arrival at the workshop we were greeted by a happy smiling mechanic informing us he had managed to weld the brackets onto the shock, so with fingers crossed we whipped out the old shock and fitted the modified Lada, Ford, Toyota, who knows what shock it was. The shock went in ok, But!!! ... As Jaco pushed the bike of the centre stand the whole thing collapsed completely and the rear mudguard was sitting flat on the rear wheel. At that point I think Jaco could have burst into tears.

Well with no alternative we decided and Jaco agreed that we would push on carefully through to Khartoum, some 2000 km’s away, where hopefully a BMW shock would be waiting at the airport for us.

We strapped Jacob’s rear suspension to prevent too much up travel; this was to prevent the shock from coming apart completely, and headed out of Addis Abba, our next stop was a small town called Debris Marcos; on route there we crossed through the Nile Canyon and for the first time saw the Blue Nile. When we entered the canyon the temperature at the top was 30 degrees and when we reached the bottom and crossed the bridge the temp had climbed to 48 degrees, this was a taste of things to come.

Arriving at Debre Marcos we booked into a “Hotel” where there were groups of over Landers already booked in. We thought it would be great to sit and once again chat to some people of our own type again. The last time having been in Nairobi, booking in we first went to our rooms to freshen up only to find the hotel, in fact the whole village, had no water or electricity. This left us with no option but to head for the bar and wash the dust from our thoughts. There we met up with the over Landers, Tim and Jack(Heading North) and the three brothers, can’t remember their names. All I remember is they call themselves the last English Tribe. They were headed South. Anyway an enjoyable evening was had by all.

Friday 22nd - This morning after saying our goodbyes to everyone and arranging with our now new mates Tim and Jack to meet them in Bahir Dar our next stop over point we headed out of town. On route we passed a lot of shot out T55 tanks and BTR Troop carriers. A legacy of the civil war that took place here in Ethiopia, I sat a moment and looked at theses wrecks of war and thought back to my days in Angola, so many years ago, and wondered how many mothers around the world are mourning there dead sons due to some senseless war in some hot dusty land.

Arriving in Bahir Dar we headed for the Ghion hotel which is situated right on the edge of Lake Tana. Here we were relieved to see that they had hot and cold water as well as electricity, definitely the place to stop over for a night.

We checked in and then decided to take a ride down to the Blue Nile Falls, some 30 km’s out of town. Arriving at the office at the falls where you buy your ticket we were told its only a short 80 meter walk to the river then a boat ride across then another 8o meters to the falls. We employed the services of a local guide and headed off. Well they have NO perception of distance! 80 meters turned out to be 2.5 km’s a short boat ride then another 2 km’s before reaching the falls! All of this done in full rider gear and a temperature of about 38 degrees! We then had to do the same coming back. Boy did that beer taste great when we got back to the bikes. The falls were a bit of a disappointment. They used to be 200 meters wide and 40 meters high. Now due to a hydro electric facility that has been built at the top of the falls 75 percent of the water is diverted through this facility thus badly affecting the flow of water over the falls, so much for advancement. The country still suffers from power cuts, sound familiar to you back in SA?

Heading back to the hotel we had a lovely shower then went to meet up with Jack and Tim who by this time had also arrived. Sitting chatting to them we were joined by another over Lander couple, Sue and Stuart from the UK who is heading South. We had a few beers with them when Stuart suggested we all go to a local restaurant in town that he knew of for a meal, this we did. After dinner we were back at the Ghion and having one of Stuarts famous ABF’S. Stuart if you read this, ABF does actually mean Absolutely Bloody Final!!! Not the start of a long drinking session till the early hours of the morning. 3 in the morning is way past these three bikers bed time.

Saturday 23rd - With very heavy heads we set of this morning for the top of the lake some 250 km’s away. Our destination, Tim’s village, Tim and his wife Kim are a Dutch couple that have relocated out here to Ethiopia and are setting up a camp and lodge on the lake edge. When we arrived there we were made to feel very welcome by our hosts and within a few minutes we were drinking cold cokes and eating Kim’s delicious pancakes.

Tim then showed us were to put up our tents, then took us down for a welcome swim in the lake, I got a bit nervous when Tim told us not to stay in the water longer than 10 minutes at a time, because Bilharzia bacteria need 15 minutes to get through your skin. What the heck we enjoyed the swim anyway.

Not much later we were once again joined, by our now traveling companions Jack and Tim. After the swim we decided to chance it and hope it would not rain and sleep under the stars next to our bikes.

We headed up to Tim’s pad where we all enjoyed a lovely supper with Tim and Kim then headed for bed. Later that night whilst lying in our sleeping bags we heard a pair of Hyenas wooping not to far from where we were sleeping. Tim decided that discretion was the better part of velour and got his tent up in no time at all. His movement scared the hyena off as we heard them running through the bush. Tim thanks for a safe sleep.

Sunday 24th - We were up bright and early this morning and after eating Kim’s hearty breakfast. We said our goodbye’s and headed for the Sudan border and our next stop at Gederef, where we but very glad to be out of Ethiopia. The road and scenery now started to change dramatically; we at first before reaching the border climbed up this winding mountain pass then down again the other side. Taking in all the breathtaking scenery as we went on. Arriving at the border we got through the Ethiopian border with not much fuss. The customs office was a bit of a surprise. Nothing more than a mud hut.

On the Sudan side, the officials are very polite scrupuasly honest and frustratingly slow with the paper work.

Anyway about an hour later we were once again on our way passport stamped and travel docs in order. Arriving in Gederef we headed for the Aheer Hotel which is recommended in most travel books as the place to stay… Bad recommendation. It is nothing more than a filthy tip, plus we were expected to leave our bikes out on the street. We instead opted to stay at the Elmotwatmakil Hotel, a bit expensive but clean and they had a secure compound area for the bikes. At dinner we all ordered chicken and rice and Sudan being a dry country we all had cokes in place of beer. After dinner we were presented with the bill for the food. A whopping 25 Sudan Pounds. This is almost R 100! For a chicken leg and wing! Jack tried in his best British diplomatic manner to tell the manager that this was daylight robbery, but all of a sudden the manager did not speak or understand English.

Monday 25th - This morning we were again up bright and early. I think part of our early raising is due to the Mullanas that start their calling at 4:00 in the morning. We loaded our bikes and on the way out of town saw a local baker taking these fresh breads out of the oven. We HAD to stop to buy a few of those and a coke each to eat for breakfast out in the desert. Heading out of town, about 10 km’s out I saw a nice looking spot to pull over, I thought!!! To eat our healthy breakfast, Coke and bread. As we stopped Jaco took out his camera to take a pic of his meal and his bike, within two minutes we had two very angry looking soldiers demanding explanations from us as to why we were there and taking photo’s. Unbeknown to me we had stopped 2 meters from an army base, and not your average common army base. Skefs here has to stop outside a special forces training camp. The camera was taken away and one of the two soldiers trots back to his base to call his commanding officer. In the meantime we are trying to explain our way out of this with the remaining soldier. Try negotiating with someone when you do not speak Arabic or they English. The troops at the camp at that stage were on their morning parade so we were kept waiting for an hour before the commanding officer came. With his escort in the form of his Sergeant Major. Thank goodness him being an officer he could speak a bit of English.

We explained that we were no threat to them and all we wanted was to eat our breakfast and be on our way. After the officer had checked through the camera to make sure we had not taken any photos of national importance, He shook hands all round and wished us well on our journey.

For the rest of the trip to Khartoum we rode 300km’s through a fairly heavy sand storm. At times our bikes were leaning at an angle of 45 degrees against the side wind, and at the same time we were getting sand blasted.

Arriving in Khartoum we battled through the heavy traffic and by now 45 degree temperature we arrived at the Blue Nile Yacht Club, where we will be camping out for the next two days. Banish all visions of a beautiful club with green grassed lawns rolling down to the waters edge. We are camped in a very dusty car park and the club itself is a few lean two’s with a few boats berthed in the water. We are camped right next to Lord Kitcheners old gun boat that he used to patrol the Nile with, but I think poor old Kitchener is turning in his grave now looking at the state of his old boat.

Tuesday 26TH - Today we are resting and just hanging about in the car park. Jaco is trying to trace the shock that is supposed to be sent up to Khartoum for him, but the courier company can’t seem to find it. We have had a few local Sudanese people stop over for a chat and hello, one chap that has just left is a retired Sudan Army General, wish we knew him yesterday. Would loved to have seen the look on that officer’s face when I put a call through and said “Here, have a chat to my mate General Mohammed Younis”

This evening we have been invited to go on a ferry ride on the Nile for sundowners and a meal with the Pannar Seed contact guy here in Khartoum. We are all looking forward to that.

We stay in Khartoum tomorrow then on Thursday we start up through the desert to Wadi Halfa and the crossing into Egypt.

update from Roger's Blog

Tuesday 26th - Yesterday was a bad day for me I came down with a bad dose of flu and having too ride through that sandstorm that I spoke about in our last report it took all my concentration and a huge effort of endurance to stay on the bike and reach Khartoum. As soon as we got to Khartoum I pitched my tent in the car park, our home for the next three days. I then put my head down and after taking a huge dose of anti flu tabs, I slept until this morning. When I woke I thankfully felt much better and now, except for a bit of a snotty head I am ready to take on the rest of this journey with the other two guys.

Talking about them. They have been fantastic on this trip. Whenever one of us have had a bad day or feel a bit down, the other two guys then take up the strain and pull you through with either a few words or some or other helping gesture.

Whilst we’ve been camping out in the car park, we had a string of local people passing by to say hello and ask us about our journey. Among them was a group of guys from the local Motorcycle police who wanted to have a look at our bikes, not for anything official, just fellow bikers. Great Hey! When we were chatting to the retired General about the friendly attitude of the people here in Sudan, his reply brought a smile to our faces, He maintains that the people of Sudan do not have to be angry with other people because the weather here does it for them.

Last report I mentioned the planned boat ride on the Nile River. Well at 19:30 pm we were met here in the car park by Mohamed our Pannar connection here in Khartoum and the guy that had arranged the boat ride. The three of us as well as four other over Landers that we had befriended here in the car park and to who the invitation had been extended, were escorted down the Jetty and aboard the barge. On the barge was a carpet laid out with chairs all around for us to sit on plus a table for the drinks. As Sudan is a dry Country the drinks consisted of water, Pepsi and Marinda. There was also lots of ice. Once the boat left the banks and we were motoring gently down the river, we were joined by an old friend “Johnny” and he was happily welcomed into our company.

The boat trip lasted about 3 hours and it was an absolute pleasure gently drifting down the Nile. The water was dead calm with a sickle moon in the sky and the lights of the houses and cars crossing the bridges over the Nile reflecting off the water. I think there was more than one of us on that boat who wished we had our partners there with us to share the moment. Of course Jacque and Mandy two of the over Landers on the boat with us had each other so they were smiling happily.

After about an hour on the water Mohamed pulled out the braai and set the coals alight. I don’t know what starter he used but Howard and I looked a bit startled when the flames leapt so high in the air the canvas roof on the barge had a hole burned right through it, all of this mid stream on a boat with no life raft or fire extinguisher that we could see. Anyway when the flames died down we were still afloat and Mohamed was still smiling and laughing his very happy laugh. He then produced a meal to die for. Lamb cutlets, chicken kebabs and a mince type meat compressed into a sausage shape on a skewer with this amazing garlic dip.

At the end of all this Mohamed then goes and produce Chocolate Swiss Cake as a dessert. Heaven!!! Remembering that for the past few weeks our choices had been rather restricted to camel or goat.

Returning back to land at about 23:30pm we said our good nights and with full bellies put our heads down and went off to sleep. Knowing that early in the morning we would be hearing from our friend the Mullana and his loudspeaker again.

Wednesday - Jaco awoke with great excitement (Kids next Christmas when your dad tells you to calm down on Christmas morning just remind him about today) the reason for the excitement is that his new shock should be arriving in Khartoum. He’ll then at least have a decent ride from here on.

While waiting for the call about the shock we said our good byes to Jacque and Mandy. The two over Landers that have traveled from Australia via Russia now down Africa to Cape Town. These two are ex South African and have been on the road since last year Christmas. Traveled 50 000 Km’s and are still going strong. Well done guys see you in SA for that sheep on the spit. I think Jacque and Jaco were quite pleased to once again be able to talk to some one in Afrikaans again. “Mandy, sorry about telling Jacque about our one week Afrikaans one week English rule we have. Guess you either have to put your foot down or your Afrikaans will be improving from here on down. Go well and Salem Allecum.”

After they had left we caught a taxi to town to try and track Jaco’s shock down. We had been given an address and tracking number. The first place we went to knew nothing about the shock and referred us to the next place. There we got the same response. After trying four different courier agencies we were once again back where we started. We were desperately trying to negotiate and make ourselves understood to the lady at the front desk when a knowledgeable looking fellow came through from an office in the back. After we explained our predicament to him he excused himself for a few minutes. When he returned he tells us he has found the shock. It is in Dubai !!! Great! That is as much use to Jaco as if it was on the fricking moon! Anyway this guy saw the look on Jaco’s face and quickly reassures him it will be on a flight this afternoon to here and he will deliver it to us in our car park ( Home ) at the Yacht Club tomorrow as soon as he gets it cleared at custom’s. We are now waiting with crossed fingers and anything else that we can cross, We cannot stay longer than tomorrow here in Khartoum. As we have to start the journey through the desert to our next destination, Wadi Halfa where we are booked on the Ferry to Aswan on the 3rd June, We have to be in Wadi by Monday 1st to complete the documentations for the boarding and crossing into Egypt.

I must add a little side bit here about Sudan. All the way up through Africa we have been slightly apprehensive about traveling through Sudan , and we were thinking that the stone throwing, rifle pointing and general crowds in one’s faces the whole time would be nothing to what we could expect here. Well this country so far has amazed us. The people are very friendly, you are greeted where ever you go with a “Welcome” as greeting and their hospitality has been outstanding. When you walk in the street you are left alone, Ok the streets are chaotic to drive in and the weather is crazy hot, but the people are generally great. We are able to leave our stuff in the open here in the car park and go to sleep at night and everything will still be there in the morning. Perhaps the law they have here of chopping of a persons hand if he/she steals something may be a contributing factor to that, but it seems to work.

Thursday - This morning straight after we had our early morning coffee conference to plan our day, Jaco phoned Mohamed (Yes another one) this one is the guy at the courier agency. To enquire about the where about of his shock. Well disappointment again, the shock is now sitting in Kenya somewhere. I think this must be one of the most traveled shocks around. We have now made a group decision that we are not going to take the chance of Jaco riding through the desert to Wadi Halfa on his broken shock. It has already endured 3750 km’s and we are amazed that it has got this far with out collapsing completely. We are not prepared to chance Jaco’s well being if it packs up on the desert. The ferry in Wadi Halfa leaves once a week on a Wednesday, and for us now to reach it in time to check in before it sails we would have to push hard. This is not possible with the current state of Jacos bike.

We have now decided to fly us and our bikes from here to Italy. Our initial plan was to fly from Cairo, so we reckon flying from here is not much that we will have missed out. We were going to push hard through Egypt anyway just to reach Cairo on time for our flight.

Having made this decision, off we went to the airport to find out if this plan was possible.
After asking at a few air lines about getting our bikes over with no joy we ended up at Qatar Air Cargo office. There we were told that they could do it, and at a quarter of the cost that we were going to pay in Egypt. We are now booked on a plane bound for Rome leaving Khartoum on Tuesday evening and arriving Rome on Wednesday the 3rd June. We then plan on spending a bit of time touring Italy and Austria, as we will now be a bit ahead of our travel schedule. We are still planning on reaching Dublin on the 30th June for the end function.

Having done all this we headed back into town when Jaco gets a call that Lo and Behold his shock is at the airport and he must go to customs to collect it. Off Howard and Jaco go back to the airport. They got to customs and produce their way bill. The customs guy goes off and scratches around… Yes scratches. The incoming items are pilled up in a heap in the middle of this warehouse with no order of tracking at all. Anyway the shock is dully found and brought to Jaco for him to identify, Yes he says THAT’S IT. Well what happens next nearly caused Jaco to cause an International Relations Incident. The customs guy takes the shock back puts it in a cupboard picks up his bag, and with a voice of “I am in charge” informs Jaco and Howard that as today is their Friday he is now off duty and cannot sign the shock out. They must come back on Sunday to collect the shock. I think at that stage Jaco could have punched the guy. No amount of pleading would change his mind, so now we will be fitting a brand new shock to Jaco’s bike for it to once again fly to Italy this time. Hopefully once we get there poor Jaco can get some decent riding under his belt.

We have planned to do a short loop tomorrow into the desert to visit the Pyramids at Meroe, which is an ancient Royal city about 350 km’s from Khartoum. We then plan on camping out in the desert before heading back via Abu Hamad and Abu Dom, then back into Khartoum on Sunday morning to crate the bikes and prepare them for the Tuesday flight.

update from Roger's Blog

Friday 29th - Today was a day that we once again learned that in Africa, do not try and plan to far ahead.

We packed up our equipment this morning, planning on heading out into the desert to visit the Meroe Pyramids (About 350 km’s from here) then doing a loop back around, camping in the desert and basically getting away from the crowds of Khartoum for a bit. We planned on getting back on Saturday evening. Then on Sunday we have a date with Madi the local customs agent that is going to help us with the crating of the bikes.

Off we head at 7:30 in the morning into a strong wind. Damn, once again we ride in a sand storm. Thank goodness we out rode this one about 140km’s out of town. We then set a good pace looking at the desert unfolding for miles and miles around us. At one of our stops along the way to stretch our legs I mentioned to Howard about the barrenness of the desert. We both agreed that we did not want to be stranded out there; I think one would dehydrate and die within no time at all if you were caught out there with no water for anything longer than a few hours.

With about 60km’s to go before we reached the Pyramids we were stopped at a road block (Yes! yet another one). We produced our papers and the official was almost about to wave us through when there was a shout from a mud hut at the side of the road and we are waved off the road and told to report to El Comandante! This guy had an attitude of note. He escorts Jaco and I into this mud hut and demands to know why we do not have the correct travel documents to be in this part of Sudan.

We patiently explain to him that the document that is stuck in our passports and for which we paid good money when crossing into Sudan, entitles us to travel anywhere we wish in Sudan. This pompous little “ASS” then tell us that he is in charge of this region and we need a travel form from Khartoum 300 km’s back down the road. We sat and pleaded with him to no avail. He informs us that UN, US, British and French are not welcome in Sudan. (Now these are all the nations that are sending aid to these guys) I think some one high up in Khartoum needs to get out there and explain to this guy that one does not normally bite the hand that feeds you.

When we heard this we were quick to tell him we were not from any of the above country’s and in fact came from SA. The land of Nelson Mandela and Bafana Bafana … He then says “welcome SA good!”. He then scratches in a drawer and pulls out a scrap piece of paper asks to borrow my pen and then writes down our details from our passports.

He gives the passports back and leads us back to our bikes. I think, Hooray! we are on our way to the Pyramids. When we get to our bikes (This by the way is about an hour later in a heat of 48 degrees) He shakes our hands and grandly says “You go back to Khartoum and get travel document” I think if our mouths were not so dry from lack of moisture our lips would have dropped right down to the ground.

We looked at him in amazement and asked what happened to the SA are good guys bit. He says yes we are. With document we go through. The above nations won’t even get the document.

So with no other alternative we turned our bikes around and headed back to Khartoum, Not before taking a bit of a detour into the Desert to play a bit on our bikes. That was fun, racing around on the sand with our big GS’es.

Back at Khartoum we settled in once again into our “home from home “car park at the Blue Nile Yacht Club. We all turned in a bit early last night, and we are all looking forward to getting out of here on Tuesday and setting of around Italy and Europe.

Saturday, May 30 - This morning we set off to the customs office to try and get Jaco’s by now well traveled shock out and fit it to his bike. We arrived at the office at 8:30 to be told they only open at 9:00, so we sit and wait. At 9:00 Jaco goes to meet the guy that took his money on Thursday, for which he got nothing in return. Anyway this guy tells him he must now pay 2000 Sudan Pounds (About R 4000.00) to get the shock. After Jaco had calmed down a bit having heard this he was told that he can go down to the main office to see if they could help.

Howard and I then left him to go sort this out and we head of with a guy by the name of Hadi. He is going to help us get the bikes crated and booked onto the plane. We hope!

Off we head to the local market to find a carpenter and negotiate a price to build three crates strong enough for our bikes, 1500 Sudan Pounds (R 4500) later we have a deal and the carpenter is left to get on with the job, but not before we tell him I am coming back this evening to inspect his work.

What was interesting to see was the fixer guy with us insisted that I give him the money to hand over to the carpenter. I can swear that when I watched him hand over the money, only half of what I had given him was handed over. Well I suppose he has to make his cut somewhere. For sure Madi won’t be getting a tip from us when the job is completed.

While we were riding around town sorting this out, we were stopped by a policeman and he demands to see our papers, I show him my passport, He hardly glances at this and demands papers for the bike, I hand over one of our Carnets to him not realizing I have given him Jaco’s Carnet. Before I can say anything I notice he has the document upside down. After giving the Carnet a through “once over” he hands it back to me and grandly says we can proceed. One can only smile in Africa!

When we get back to Jaco he tells us that the guy in the main office has agreed to release his shock. Off he went back to the fellow at the customs and excise shed to collect. The guy there opens the box with the shock and after looking at it for awhile tells Jaco he can have it, for a fee of 2000 Sudan Pounds. So much for the guy in charge saying he does not have to pay anything; it seems everyone here works to there own agenda. The next problem is that because today is Saturday all the banks are closed… So we now have to wait for tomorrow to draw money to pay for this shock. You watch we will get it out just in time to crate the bikes and the shock will once again be flying off to another destination. This time hopefully attached to Jaco’s bike.

We are now comfortably sitting killing time in a coffee shop waiting to watch the Super 14 final…

Sunday 31st - Today is actually a normal working day in Sudan, taking our Saturdays as Sunday, don’t ask why, this is Sudan!

Today we have planned to spend the day crating the bikes and getting them booked onto an airplane, should be a simple task. YEA RIGHT!

Before getting to the crating, I arrange with Jaco and Howard that I am going to find a hairdresser for a haircut and will meet them at the local internet café for breakfast at 10:00.

Of I go in search of a hairdresser in this city. Now a GPS does not have hairdressers as one of its “Go To” functions, so it’s a matter of riding around these very confusing streets until I see what looks like a place that can cut hair.

I eventually find a hairdresser (Male One) I confidently try and explain that all I want is a cut, using a clipper with a number one attachment. This to a guy wielding a cut throat razor in his hand and not speaking a word of English.

Anyway after a bit of explaining and hand gestures I get my message across, out comes the clipper and with in no time at all my hair and beard are trimmed back into a respectable length. Just as I think he is finished he once again hauls out said cut throat and proceeds to shave my neck with this very sharp looking instrument. I was a bit nervous at that stage with this blade scratching around in my neck region in the hands of a non English speaking Arab; I hoped and prayed that Bin Laden’s influence had not reached Khartoum yet. I am still here today to tell the tale so everything went well. When he was finished this part, before I could get up out of the chair he whips out a long length of dental floss. I think to myself, No Way Am I letting anyone go at my teeth with a piece of dental floss. I need not have worried though, he takes the floss wrapped it around his fingers, puts one end in his mouth and with some sort of jerking movement with his head he proceeds to trip all my facial hair and the fine hairs around my ears. This is a first for me. Well an hour later and 10 Sudan pounds poorer (This included a bottle of drinking water) I am out of there and heading off to meet up with Jaco and Howard to sort out our bikes.

First problem we encounter, Sudan does not recognize any visa or visa related cards, this because of the US Imposed sanctions against the country. We need to pay cash, dollars. Oh yes they accept Dollars of course! We have all our money in a visa travel card and this is absolutely useless to us here. We ride around Khartoum in non air-conditioned taxis in a heat of 48 degrees, trying to find a bank that can help us. To no avail. We are now arranging to have money transferred into a local airline Captains account from SA to sort out the payment.

We in the meantime headed back to the airport and then off to the market with our fixer guy “Mardi” to see how the crates are getting on, when we arrive there we are pleased to see two crates completed and the third one almost. We then need to negotiate the use of a truck to get these crates from the market to the airport export shed. After a bit of haggling from our fixer, a price is agreed on and the crates are duly loaded and on there way to the airport.

By now it is 17h00 in the afternoon and still very hot, we then have to drain all oils and fuel from the bikes and get them into the crates and strapped down. This we eventually do, by this time we are dying of thirst and tempers are getting a bit short.

Madi our fixer has one last trick up his sleeve. Just before we are about to head back to our camp site. It is now 20h00 in the evening and we have had a long day. Madi comes up to me and says he needs 100 Sudan pounds, R 500.00 to pay the 4 guys that helped push the bikes into the crate. These guys are employed by the customs to do just that! Anyway we are too tired to argue about this so we reluctantly part with yet more money.

We head back to the car park (Our camp site) to meet up with our new found friends, Quinton and Juliet. They had just got in from Wadi Halfa, and had invited us for a braai. No beer, but the steak and roast lamb was delicious.

Monday 1st - Today we are once again sorting out payment for our now crated and custom cleared bikes so that we can get them flown out of Sudan…

update from Roger's Blog

Monday 1st - As I have said in my last report, we have the bikes now securely crated and ready to go. Our tickets have been payed for and we are booked on a Qatar airways flight out of Khartoum on Tuesday night 21H00.

The one problem we still sit with is the bikes have to be paid for before they can be checked on to the Qatar Cargo plane that will be taking them out of the country, now with the bank problems, we have been trying all sorts of avenues to get money into the country. Some ideas scary and some are outrageous, the scary option was: Pay the money into a friend of our fixer guy’s account and in three days once the money has been cleared he will pay the airline. We are talking about a sum of 5300 USD here! R52 750.00! Plus we will be out of the country by the next day. That idea was shot out the water very quickly.

The outrageous was for one of us to fly out of the country, draw the money from a bank where our cards will work then fly back with the cash. Desperate times calls for desperate measures.

Anyway before we made the final call on what to do, I put a call through to Nick Goble our Pannar sponser in SA and asked his advice. He suggested we contact Mahomed the Khartoum agent that so graciously took us out on the Barge on the Nile last Tuesday and see if he could not help. With a silent prayer I put a call through to him and explained our predicament. He tells me he is in Addis Abba but sure he can help. He tells me to phone him back in ten minutes, this I do. He has arranged everything for us. We are told to go to his office in down town Khartoum where his financial manager will have a cheque made out to the airline to settle the amount. We arrange to have the repayment made into his account and with a handshake in acceptance we are racing off to the airport to finalize the flight booking of the bikes. Mahomed and your fantastic team at your office we all three thank you for everything that you have done for us during our stay in Khartoum.

Arriving back at the airport we are given the weights of the bikes combined with crates as well as the crate dimentions and a formula is worked out and the total amount for flying the bikes across to Rome is worked out and the money is duly paid over to the airline.

We then thankfully leave the airport and catch an Amjate a local mini bus taxi looks like half loaf bread has very few instruments, you are lucky if the windows work no door handles plenty of mirrors a box of tissues on the dash and a driver that is suicidal. These drivers have the habit of hooting and going, no matter what is coming at them, and head back to our car park camp site where we now know will be our last nights sleep in Khartoum.

Tuesday 2nd - We wake this morning in high spirits knowing that we can pack up our tents and equipment head off to town to the coffee shop that has become our refuge from the heat and wait the day out until we need to go check in at 17H00 in the afternoon. Again we are reminded, never take things as complete and done in Africa. We had just finished packing up camp when I receive a call from Madi our fixit guy at the airport. He tells us that the Captain in charge of freight loading has inspected the crates and says they are too high and also need to be completely enclosed. This now on the day of departure.

We scramble to find a taxi to get us to the airport and get this not to small a job completed before we have to fly out.

Meeting Madi at the customs we are relieved to see he has already employed the services of a carpenter who is going at the crates with a saw and cutting the uprights shorter, Madi has also managed to find some wooden sheets to enclose the crates.

We by this stage have had enough of all the running about and the continual changing of plans. We check that Madi has everything under control and tell him because we have already paid him a lot of good money up till now for his help and we were in no doubt going to be paying him more for todays work. We were leaving him in charge and would be back at 15H00 to check the final crating, and we head off to the coffee shop. Not before we have had to strip the screens of our bikes to accomadate the shorter crates. Poor Howard was by this stage really over heating and was not taking all this to well. But when he saw the carpenter walking towards his bike with a saw and a glint in his eye he decided that he would take the the screen off him self, rather than in trust the job to an Arab with an attitude and a saw.

At 15H00 we are back and at last we breathe a sigh of relief when the captain arrives and inspects the crates and gives a final approval for them to fly.

Yet more money is handed over to Madi for his help and with the assurance from the captain that the bikes will be on the midnight plane to Doha, Qatar then on to Rome we say our final goodbyes and head off to departures to catch our plane.

We flew out of Khartoum at 21h00 via Doha which is the capital of Qatar. Never got to see much of the city as we landed at midnight and stayed in the airport while changing to our connecting flight to Rome.

Wednesday 3rd - After a not to comfortable sleep on the plane we looked out the window at 05h30 to see Italy and the city of Rome stretching out beneath us, and green grass!

The temp in Rome is about 18 degrees in the morning and goes up to 27 degrees during the day. Bliss after the 48 degrees we were experiencing in Sudan. After collecting our luggage, Jaco discovers that someone in Khartoum has had a final say. His bag had been opened and his camera and ipod is stolen.

Leaving the airport we approach a taxi driver and ask the price of a ride to the Flaminio Village. This is the camp site where we will be based while in Rome. 50 euros was the cost. We accept and follow him to his cab. We look at each other in amazement when he gets to a Mercedes Benz (New one) and opens the door for us. Quite a change in cars, after having been using Amjat’s and cabs in Khartoum that even if you paid a huge bribe in SA would never pass a roadworthy test.

Arriving at the camp site, we were able to open the cab door from the inside. This is a new experience for us. We decide to book a bungalow to stay in and spoil our selves for a few nights, The car park in Khartoum had not been the the most comfortable of places to camp.

This afternoon we decided to catch a train into Rome city centre to get a meal and have a look around.

Rome is a beautiful old city and we walked around taking in the sites with eyes wide open. We sat in the Pizza de Pablo an ancient cobbled square in the centre of Rome surrounded by these old buildings dating back to 1528 and watched the day turn to night. The sky turned a kind of Turquoise colour with thin wispy clouds and was absolutely beautiful. If you have ever been to Monti Casino in Johannesburg the ceiling that has been painted there looks a little bit like what the sky was like. And to top all of this there was this guy playing a saxophone in the square. We sat at a pavement Café drinking red wine and taking all of this in. I think we are all still a bit shell shocked after our African adventures.

Thursday 4th - Today we took a train back into Rome and spent the day walking around the city visiting the Coloseum and other sites. Rome is an amazing city. With lots of small roads and ally ways leading all over the place, getting lost here is not too difficult. With the buildings towering over you and all these old buildings on either side of the road and a lot of the roads look much the same.

Never the less the city is amazing to walk around and take in all these old sites. Walking down the cobbled alleyways one can close your eyes and almost hear the clopping of the legioners horses and the tramping of the soldiers feet coming down the street, and when you look down at the arena of the Coloseum it is not hard to picture the scene of a slain Gladiator laying in the dust while the victor looks up at Julius Ceaser to see if he gets a thumbs up or down, which will decide whether he lives or dies.

Using the time today to explore the city was great, we are now starting to get itchy feet again and can’t wait to get our bikes out of Customs tomorrow, when we can once again get back in the saddle and start riding up through the Italian countryside heading for our end destination, Dublin.

A few technical stats for those of you that may be interested: We have up until now been traveling at an overall average speed of 55km’s per hour since leaving Durban, This is according to our GPS data .We have ridden 12450 km’s . Poor Jaco has done 4500 km of that on a broken shock. We have had no punctures and only replaced our rear tyre’s (In Nairobi) We are still running on TKC’S and should reach Dublin on our current set. The bikes have not had to have the engine oil topped up, except for the oil change that we have done in Khartoum. The combined weight of the bike when fully loaded is 380 kg’s.

update from Roger's Blog

Friday 5th - This morning we were up at 07H00 went up to the restaurant for breakfast then ordered a taxi to get us to the airport to find out if our bikes had at last arrived from Khartoum. We really do not like the feeling of having left the bikes in a foreign land in someone else’s hands to get them loaded and sent off to us. The other thing that was bothering us was the thought that was going through all our minds. With all the hassels that we had been having with the customs and border officials all the way up Africa, and none of us being able to speak Italian we were wondering what was in store for us today.

We arrived at the airport cargo division, and after parting with 50 Euros for the taxi ride (Work that exchange rate out and you will see that Italy is not cheap) It is about R500. Sjoe!!!! Entering the customs reception we immediately see that this experience will be different, firstly the place is spotlessly clean and the computers work, the lady behind the counter, when she hears that our Italian extends as far as Bo journo, and no further, she calls over her shoulder to a bloke in the back room who speaks a bit of English. We explain our business there and after showing our passports she issues us with temp visitors passes and we are in. Not before I am pulled aside, when my money pouch is put through the x ray machine. I had forgotten my knife was in it. No problem the official says, leave it in his office and collect it on our way out.

The semi english speaking guy accompanies us to the office where the handling of goods takes place. We show the guy behind the counter our way bill. He goes to his working computer, looks up the info and tells us the bikes are still on route and would be in at 19H00. We can come back at 09H00 in the morning to collect them.

Our English speaking guide then takes us to the three offices that we will have to deal with in the morning to show us exactly where to go and what to do. This he informs us is because as tomorrow is Saturday he would not be at work, but not to worry the offices would be open. Now is that not service.

It is by this time now only 12h00 so we decided to catch a shuttle from there into town and go see the Vatican City.

We get a shuttle from the Airport to the Piazza Del Popolo, which is situated in the centre of town. We figure that we can walk from there to the Vatican, plus we have got to know a very nice Tratoria on the street near the Popolo so that is a good reference point.


The Vatican is about half an hour walk from the square, but this time it is an easy walk, we don’t have full rider gear on like the time at the Nile falls. Wow! That feels like a life time away now. So much has happened since then.
Arriving at the Vatican City we are left speechless, the place is HUGE. There is this massive square with a spire in the middle of it, but this is completely overshadowed by the main Cathedral with these huge marble columns supporting a covered walk way. Looking at the buildings I could not help remarking to Howard that here was proof that God is more powerful than the gods that Julius Caesar worshipped. His place has fallen down and is now a ruin that people visit. The Vatican is still standing and is in very good condition.

We stand in the square for awhile taking all of this in, then walk up to the entrance to go in and have a look at the Cathedral. Now at the Coliseum one has to pay to walk around, here it is free, Julius is still collecting his taxes. Unfortunately Jaco is denied entry to the inner sanctum because the Vatican guards say his shorts are to short. Howard and I enter and once again stand in awe of the place, the artwork and sculptures are amazing. The roof is probably 4 stories high and is intricately decorated with paintings and carvings. Words and pictures cannot fully describe the splendor of the whole place.

Walking around looking at all the paintings ranging from the last supper to the resurrection I said a quiet word of thanks and prayer that we had all made it safely so far on this journey and asked for guidance on the last leg.

Leaving the Vatican we walked back to the Piazza Del Popolo each of us very quite and reflecting on our own personal thoughts. A visit to the Vatican City seems to have an effect on one.

Back at our friendly Tratoria we order a Carafe of wine and Pizza’s all round and watch the sun setting in the west while a full moon was rising over the Cathedral of the Popolo.

Much later and in high spirits we head down to the rail station to catch the last train of the evening back to a station near our camp site.

Saturday 6th - We are up very early and really looking forward to the day. Our bikes are in Italy and we are off to collect them.
After another 50 euro taxi ride we are back at the cargo handling section of the airport. As we walk into the reception the security guy calls out to me to say that I can once again leave my knife with him. How do you like that, a customs official with a memory and manners.

With in no time at all, we are once again issued ID cards and heading to the first of the 3 clearing offices. The clearing of the bikes is done quickly and with out too much fuss. Once the documentation is done the crates with the bikes in are brought to us on a forklift.

We set about breaking the crates open and are very relieved to see the bikes are all still in one piece. While we are unloading the bikes and refilling the engine oil a crowd of Italian workers crowd around us and watch in amazement as we work on the bikes. They are very interested in the trip that we are doing as well as the bikes. We have also discovered that most of the people here in Italy love bikes and cars. With our bikes fully loaded and displaying all our sponsor stickers we are being stopped often and asked about the bikes and our trip. Even driving down the motorway drivers hoot at us and give us thumbs up.

Once we have finished sorting the bikes out we wave good bye to our audience at the cargo shed and head back to the camp site.

Howard is by this stage not feeling very well. Think he has got the flu that Jaco and I have already had in Sudan. We stop at a chemist to get him some medication. The chemist says that he has swine flu, so not to bother buying any medication, waste of money cause people usually die from swine flu… Looking at the shocked look on Howard’s face he quickly tells him he is only joking and hands out a box of flu medication.

We get Howard safely back to the cabin at the camp site where he then went off to bed and rest.

Jaco and I get on the bikes and take a ride into Rome city to have a final look around before we leave town tomorrow.

After all that we have been through in Africa these few days rest in Rome have been great.
We are now looking forward to heading out back on the road tomorrow heading up Italy in the direction of our final destination, Dublin. We are planning on getting into Dublin on the 30th June where we are to be hosted to an end party by Dublin BMW.

update 7th - 10th

Sunday 7th - This morning we woke up with the knowledge that we were once again getting back on our bikes to continue with this journey of ours to Dublin. This time we are now on our Europe leg of the trip. And also the final stages of a very long and eventful adventure. We all knew in our hearts that the worst was now behind us, but what lies ahead we don’t yet know, but with the cooler weather, decent roads and not having stones thrown at us this can only be something to look forward to.

Leaving Rome under a cloudy sky (we haven’t seen that for awhile) we made our way out of the city following my GPS instructions. No pressure on me! Jaco and Howard’s Europe mapping program was not working so all we had to go on was my GPS. Getting out of the city proved to be a lesson in concentration for me. Trying to keep an eye on the road, watch for cars (and there are a lot of them in Rome) plus watch my GPS and make sure I did not leave the other two behind, was trying to say the least, there were a few wrong turns taken, but as I have said I had the only working GPS so the other two were totally ignorant to the fact that I had got lost. Thankfully the GPS can auto route so it soon had us back on track and with a “That was the scenic route” to the other two, we were soon out of the city and on our way to Monti Argentario, an Island joined by a bridge, this was to be our over night stop and is about 140 km’s up the East Coast.

As we left Rome the cloudy weather decided to change to rain. The first rain we had been in since leaving Nairobi. We stopped under a bridge to put on our rain suits, these of course were covered in dust which soon turned to mud. Anyway we actually enjoyed the feeling of rain on our skins again.

Traveling along the highway we next came across our first indication of the kind of problems that we were going to come across in Europe. Toll Gate! Driving into the toll gate we look at the booth in alarm and see they are unmanned and all the instructions are in Italian! This voice comes over a speaker telling us to do something; we are still not sure what! Anyway Howard and I look at each other in bewilderment and both of us lean over to the speaker box and ask, please help us! Of course we get no response, after about 10 minutes and plenty of dirty looks from the other motorists that had to back up and use another aisle, and franticly pushing all the buttons, This slot opens and we throw in a few coins and the boom opens. Before it can close again we all shoot through and are out of there. I am still not sure if we have cheated the toll consetion out of a few Euros. But we have now put my GPS onto Toll Avoidance mode.

Arriving at Monti Argentanio we look for a Tratoria to get some lunch, finding a very nice looking one over looking the Mediterranean sea, we decide to go in there. We should have taken notice of the cars parked outside, that may have given us an indication of the price we were to pay for our lunch. We ordered a plate of Spaghetti each and when the bill arrived nearly fell of our chairs. 65 Euros! ( R 650 ) For three plates of Spaghetti, Sjoe!!!!

At least the blow was a bit soften by the view we had of the ladies that were tanning on the beach, after being all the way through Africa that was a sight to behold. By the way some of them seemed to have forgotten their tops at home.

After lunch we took a ride around the Island marveling at the yachts and motor launches moored in the harbor, lots of money there.

That evening we camped at a local camp ground on the lake edge and had our emergency rations for dinner, Bully Beef and Smash. That’s the life I suppose of a Trans Africa biker.

Monday 8th - Today we had a lazy start to the day as we only had a short ride up to Lago Trasimeno. We would be traveling through the Tuscany region of Italy and all I can say that Tuscany is everything that we have heard about the region, absolutely beautiful. The country side is a mosaic patchwork of color of Brown, Green, yellow and many other colors, of the wheat, grass, trees and sunflowers plus the wild flowers that flow into each other.

Riding through the country side taking all of this in plus smelling the freshness of everything around us were soon forgetting the smell of decay and filth that we had been exposed to in some of the countries that we had passed through in Africa.

On top of every mountain there seems to be these walled villages and Monasteries that I am sure date back many years. People still live there today and go about their daily lives.

At one such village my GPS took us into the heart of the village through these narrow walled streets. In the middle of this village we come to a road closed sign plus we are now sitting in the middle of a court yard, feeling very out of place on our bikes and kitted out as if we are intending to raid the place. Before anyone can say something to us I make a u turn and indicate to the other two to follow me. I try and lead us out of there. After about a half hour of riding around these narrow streets with no idea where to go to get out. We find ourselves back in the same square; by this time half the village is now assembled there waiting for us. With a stern wag of a finger from one local guy, (Looking at the size of the knife in his hand, we think he is the local butcher) and a point in the right direction we head off in said direction and are soon out of there and back on our merry way. From then on whenever we approach a walled village on a hill, we now take the alternate route around the outside wall. Feel safer this way.

Arriving at Lago Trasimenyo, a lake up in the hills we go in search of a camp site, book into a park home, then head down to the waters edge where there is a restaurant where we have a few sundowners and a meal of hot dogs. Poor Howard has to share a very small room with Jaco and unknown to him Jaco tends to snore VERY loud after eating hot dogs. In the morning Jaco informs us that he had dreamed about Lions on the Serengeti. We tell him we can believe that, we could hear them roaring!

Tuesday 9th - We leave the lake area and now head into the Umbria district and once again enjoy the scenery as well as the mountain passes that we are crossing over. Stopping at a local village for breakfast we are approached by a guy who tells us that there is an Enduro taking place on Saturday in the area and we would be very welcome to come along to watch. Unfortunately by Saturday we will be quite a long way from here so regretfully have to decline the invitation. He does however show us on the map a fantastic route to ride up into the hills. Part of this area is where the World Rally Champs take place. Really beautiful countryside and spectacular riding area.

Late in the afternoon we arrive at a camp site in the National Park Forest near Casentine where we overnight.

Wednesday 10th - This morning we head on our way to Bologna where we are due to have two rest days and visit the Ducati Factory. Soon after we leave the camp site, we ride through a village when Howard spots a small motor cycle shop and on the window there’s a sticker claiming that they are agents for Ohlins shocks. By now Jaco has been riding his bike for 3800km’s with his ( Spring ). That is all you can now refer to his shock as, and his poor kidneys are almost about to stop functioning completely.

I need to add here that both Howard and I are in full amazement and admiration of Jaco! To have nursed his bike so far in its current condition and to have been able to keep on the road without crashing. Its a testament to his riding ability?

Back to the motorcycle shop. We make a quick U-Turn in the street and go into the shop with mixed feeling, what chance would a small shop in a small village in the middle of Italy have of having a BMW Ohlins shock in stock.

There is a motorcycle God and he was smiling down on Jaco today. The lady behind the counter says, “Yes” they can get a shock for Jaco sent up from Milano and it will be in the shop tomorrow morning. Right there and then Jaco could have kissed her. Controlling his emotions Jaco accepts the order and with a promise to be back in the morning to collect the shock, we say our goodbyes and head on to Bologna.

We are now camped at “Cito de Bolonga” on the outskirts of Bologna where we will rest for two days, Fix Jacos shock and visit the Ducati factory.