New G450X owner from Vietnam !

Hi ya'll. My name is Tim. Just received my G450X couple of days ago, and beginning to like it very much. Since this is my first enduro bike, there are a couple of questions I hope the veterans on this board could help me with:

1. I've seen quite a few discussions about changing the front/rear sprockets to a different combination, such as 14/48 or 14/50. I should probably use this bike 60% city road - 40% offroad (mountain trails, green lanes etc). So could you tell me what are the differences between these combo? What are the best set up for city and setup for offroad? I don't mind changing the sprockets before going offroad.

2. I installed the Touratech EFI mapping switch already. But still not sure if I have to turn off the engine before switching it or can I do it while riding?

3. I did a cat removal as per instruction found on this board, and also did some mod to the original can to reduce the heat and sound level. The power increase is quite significant. So is there other benefits to upgrade to an aftermarket system like Akra or Remus beside the cosmetic and weight reduction issues?

4. Yesterday I changed the oil for the first time, and I used Mobil-1 full synthetic oil 10W-40 at 1.15 liter for the job. After that, took it out for a spin, and I got oil spitting up like a firehose through the presure tube into the airbox. Did I do something wrong? Anyone experienced the same thing before?

We do not have BMW Motorrad dealership in Vietnam because the import duty for bikes is too high (like 190%), so I have no where to turn to when these things happen. Hope soemone with experiences and passion for this bike could provide enlightenment.

Cheers, Tim.

to much oil... did you change the oilfilter if not there always some oil in there.

and i if you do new oil, fill it up for .8 L run the engine idle check level and fil it up a bit more at .1 L at the time.
I bet you not going to use the 1.15L

Lukipela said:

Yesterday I changed the oil for the first time, and I used Mobil-1 full synthetic oil 10W-40 at 1.15 liter for the job.

Click to expand...

Do not use fully synthetic oil in this bike...... AS IT SAYS IN THE MANUAL!

T.

Lukipela said:

1. I've seen quite a few discussions about changing the front/rear sprockets to a different combination, such as 14/48 or 14/50. I should probably use this bike 60% city road - 40% offroad (mountain trails, green lanes etc). So could you tell me what are the differences between these combo? What are the best set up for city and setup for offroad? I don't mind changing the sprockets before going offroad.

2. I installed the Touratech EFI mapping switch already. But still not sure if I have to turn off the engine before switching it or can I do it while riding?

4. Yesterday I changed the oil for the first time, and I used Mobil-1 full synthetic oil 10W-40 at 1.15 liter for the job. After that, took it out for a spin, and I got oil spitting up like a firehose through the presure tube into the airbox. Did I do something wrong? Anyone experienced the same thing before?

Click to expand...

Weclome to the forum Tim.

Gearing is going to be dependant on terrain, they do work on taller gearing but dropping a tooth on the front makes slow stuff a lot more enjoyable.

I rode a 50/50 mix tarmac to dirt so I ran tall gearing, the agility of the bike makes up for the gearing and the clutch can be slipped without issues if needed so I seldom bothered with a sprocket change.

Yes the engine needs to be stopped to switch maps, you can do this on the fly - clutch in, kill the engine and then flick the switch and hit the starter

If it is reluctant to tick over from cold start on full power map and then drop it down if needed.

Let the bike warm up thoroughly before use.

DO NOT use fully synthetic oil

I used to have issues with a Husaberg blowing oil into the air box if I over filled it even slightly and 1.6 litres is too much so check the level when you fill it again with the correct oil

Enjoy!

Welcome!

Many thanks to all that posted their inputs.

Honestly I did not know about the full synthetic oil. The problem is, the shipper lost the whole accessory bag during transportation from the US to VN. So as of moment, I have no manual, repair CD, warranty card etc. I probably do not need the warranty anyway since there's no dealer around, and shipping the bike to Thailand every 1000km is just not sensible. Will likely get a good bike mechanic hear to take care of services. But the Manual is something else. Feeling like a blind guy right now, especially this is my first ever MX bike. While waiting for the US dealer to short out the problem, I downloaded a copy of the manual from BMW Motorrad Danmark website, but it's in Danish. So not much use there beside a few pics and words that I can guess the meaning

So, back to oil change: if no Mobil-1, which one would you recommend? It's fairly hot here, around 28-35 celcious and never goes lower than 15 celcious. So Castrol GTX 15W-40 or Magnatec 15W-40 ok? If I change out the mobil, how do I flush out all the old oil? will the residue mix with the new half synthetic oil?

@Ovenpaa: should I do a 14/48 combo as an all around setup (tarmac & dirt) ? 15 seems a bit tall and the bike has a tendency to stall in traffic.

Anyone has any suggestion for the after market pipe?

Again, thanks guys.

Tim.

Timpo said:

Do not use fully synthetic oil in this bike...... AS IT SAYS IN THE MANUAL!

T.

Click to expand...

The G450X manual does not tell you to avoid synthetic oil. All the manual says (Page 92) is as follows: "Mineral oils of API classification SF to SH. BMW Motorrad recommends not using oil additives becuase they can have a detrimental effect on clutch operation."

Indeed Vines of Guildford advised me to use the Castrol Power1 Off Road which is synthetic. But the off road version is tosh as explained below:

I was v confused by the oil specifications in the G450X manual, so I called up the Castrol technical help line in Swindon and spoke to a knowledgable chap who also rode motorbikes off road, and was informed that:

- the manual actually refers to outdated API oil classifications. I believe the API specs cited by BMW are ~10 years old! Modern engines required modern oil, so why BMW are specifying oil based on old specs is beyond me, particualarly as the bike is a temperamental competition bike.
- the relevant oil spec is JASO. And this is not referred to in the manual.
- the Castrol Power1 GPS, Off Road & Racing all meet the same JASO specs. The Racing variant is fully synthetic and high quality synthetic at that too. The Off Road version is also synthetic, but slightly lower quality synthetic than the Racing variant. THe Off Road version claims to have additives for the clutch, but actually all the Power1 GPS oils have this same clutch additive. In fact, the tech guy informed my that its just marketing that is differentiating the off road version.
- The Power1 GPS and the Racing varian is available in 1 & 4 litre cans, whereas the Off Road is only available in 1 litre cans. If you are doing regular oil changes, then the better quality fully synthetic Racing variant works out cheaper if you buy it in 4 litre cans !
- So long as the engine is run in, then synthetic is fine. Non synthetic should be used during the run in process to "encourage" the piston rings to wear, bed in and seal. Then synthetic can be used. If synthetic is used from the outset, the rings wont wear and seal, and oil will continue to be burnt.
- Where the manual says don't use additives in the oil, it means don't add your own to the oil. The additives already in the oil are fine; in fact you'd be hard pushed to find any engine oil without additives.

Now on the basis of this advice I bought a 4 litre can of the Racing variant with the intention of using it in my G450X, but didnt get around to doing an oil change 'cos of all the starting problems I've had and has been at a dealer for sooo long now.

Pls don't flame me if you dont agree or believe me, but instead pls call Castrol in Swindon on +44 (0)1793 512 712 and ask for their tech support department.

Mike.

The bike is a BMW with a BMW warranty so I fed mine what they stipulated and they have honoured any warranty claims I have made.

Not sure about the temperamental bit...

Turn the idle up a fraction, this helps with the stalling in traffic that you have. This is done by turning the 'big brass' coloured screw head near the fuel injection unit.

ovenpaa said:

The bike is a BMW with a BMW warranty so I fed mine what they stipulated and they have honoured any warranty claims I have made.

Click to expand...

Good point, but bear in mind that the Power 1 GPS, Off Road & Racing variants all meet and exceed the API oil spec as per the manual.

indeed the oil spec are outdated they also told me that at the dealer, the had castrol 10/40 but i dont like red oil.in my bike.
i,m always fond of BEl ray in the 1150gs 20/50 in the x450x 10./40 becaus it says so in th manuel, but i think it it very relitve to the temp you,re riding.

turn the idle a bit up, i am very fond of the remus exhaust lost 2 kilo and absoluut no stalling any more in very low revs.

im riding in 14/48 wich is for my terrrain an nice mixture between MX tracks and enduro trakcs.
topspeed is higher then i can ride when standing on the bike without being blowing away.

Many many thanks to all that posted their suggestions. Especially to WindyChuffer for his generous help with the riders'manual and all. I'll try your suggestions tomorrow and take her out for another spin this weekend Will let ya'll know on the inprovement.

Cheers.

Another question: anyone has experience with Leo Vince exhaust system? heard some good things about it, like the weight sang is close to 3.5 kg & looks much slimmer than Remus. Cheers.

Xin Chow Lukipela, welcome to the forum. Just booked my flight today - back out to Saigon for Xmas - I love that place!

rob mac said:

Xin Chow Lukipela, welcome to the forum. Just booked my flight today - back out to Saigon for Xmas - I love that place!

Click to expand...

Rob: glad you like my city. PM me when you're in town and we catch up for a beer - on me

Suspension settings

I'm 77kg /182cm. Full riding gear, I guess around 81-82kg. Trying to set up the suspensions following the settings Dave Emsley posted on the other thread, but ran into a few problems:

1. For the front forks, the different between enduro & MX compression settings are quite large (24 clicks vs. 8). And I don't think the screw would even goes out 24 clicks. When I locked it clockwise (turned to the right most or the + sign) and backed up toward the - sign, 22 clicks was the max it went, and the screw protruded about 3mm above the surface. Any idea?

2. When setting the sag, which direction do I turn the black ring to decrease sag (from 60 to 40mm)? up or down? I tried both ways but didn't really see the difference .. Don't think the manual has any instruction about this ...

3. My bike has quite a bit of sag. Dynamic around 130mm. But at my height 182cm, when I sit astride the bike, I still can't but both of my feet comtably on the ground, only kind of tiptoe ... Is that normal for this bike, or did I do soethng wrong? the other day we went riding on a mountain trail with lots of uneven rocky ground & pot holes, and I lost my foothold couple of times and fell over because coulnd reach the ground with my foot
Already order the lower seat from sierra bmw but from the spec 15mm stepped down is quite insignificant ... don't know if it'd help at all ....

Anyone with experiences please help

Thanks, luke

Lukipela said:

1. For the front forks, the different between enduro & MX compression settings are quite large (24 clicks vs. 8). And I don't think the screw would even goes out 24 clicks. When I locked it clockwise (turned to the right most or the + sign) and backed up toward the - sign, 22 clicks was the max it went, and the screw protruded about 3mm above the surface. Any idea?

Click to expand...

From memory, can't comment on this.

Lukipela said:

2. When setting the sag, which direction do I turn the black ring to decrease sag (from 60 to 40mm)? up or down? I tried both ways but didn't really see the difference .. Don't think the manual has any instruction about this ...

Click to expand...

- You need to turn the black ring many turns to make a measurable difference.
- The manual says put the bike on its stand, which means the side stand, and is incorrect; if you try and compress the rear spring with the black ring and the rear wheel is on the ground, the black ring will jump on the threads and you won't be able to compress the spring.
- So put the bike on a centre stand so the rear wheel is off the ground and there is no load on the rear suspension.
- Stupidly IMHO, the black ring (that does the spring compression) is plastic, and the lock ring is metal. Should be the other way around IMHO.

Lukipela said:

3. My bike has quite a bit of sag. Dynamic around 130mm. But at my height 182cm, when I sit astride the bike, I still can't but both of my feet comtably on the ground, only kind of tiptoe ... Is that normal for this bike, or did I do soethng wrong? the other day we went riding on a mountain trail with lots of uneven rocky ground & pot holes, and I lost my foothold couple of times and fell over because coulnd reach the ground with my foot
Already order the lower seat from sierra bmw but from the spec 15mm stepped down is quite insignificant ... don't know if it'd help at all ....

Anyone with experiences please help

Thanks, luke

Click to expand...

Yip. Thats normal. You just need to anticipate which foot and where your foot is going to go, and maybe move your butt cheeks to make the leg longer. You get used to it.

Lukipela said:

Rob: glad you like my city. PM me when you're in town and we catch up for a beer - on me

Click to expand...

Will do, of course to keep "on topic" we'll have to talk about oil If you need anything (legal and light!) bringing out let me know.

Changed the suspensions setting again today .. apparently I did it wrong the first time .. for the rear shock the compression is on top while front fork is on the bottom .. didn't pay good attention and mistook the rebound as comp for front fork ... duhhh... no wonder it didn't go out 24 clicks

Anyway, did it right today, and took out for a spin .. really changed the bike a whole lot ... feel like a bit of a different bike already ... can't wait to get the sag tuned in correctly tomorrow and see how it's gonna improve ...

G 450X

Hey There,
I put A Leo Vince Full Ti Pipe on mine and it is the ticket. Runs better and is a lot crisper on the bottom. As far as Oil I think Royal Purple 10/40 or 20/50 is the way to go as it meets by far all of BMW's specs. 14/48 is good for a all rounder.15/48 for fire roads,13/48 for some nice single track stuff. Change the oil & clean the filter every 10 Hrs. I use a Scotts filter and it will save You lots of money.
My Bike has 1878 miles and 68.7 hrs on it. The valves have been in spec at every check and required no shim change. The 70 hr check showed no wear and no parts where replaced. Mind you that I did a leak down check before the service and it was only 2%. I know that sounds Low but it is what it is... I also Have a Huasberg 501 and to get it to go past 6 hrs without a valve ajust... well just not going to happen. It is a nice bike but very needy in the way of wrench time and top end work. In short My G450 X has been a dream to own and the dealer support 2nd to none. The only thing is the forks,they suck stock but witch ones don't? Re work them and it will make it a lot nicer in roots and rocks Hope that helps. Cheers.