won't rev, no power... help!

markj

Guest
Hiya folks,
my 2000 1150gs has started to run very erratically. Everything was sweet, but now she doesn't want to start, when she does she idles poorly and won't pull away without slipping the clutch far too much. She gets slightly better when warm but still struggles under load and won't rev above 3,000rpm. Changed the plugs, checked tank breathers and changed fuel and air filters as she was due the change for a service anyway, any advice on what to try next would be greatly appreciated, fuel pump sounds ok... ie no different to what it has sounded like for the past year. Is there a straight forward way to check the hall sensor? injectors etc?
cheers markj
 
No it's not the throttle cable, fell for that many moons ago, how do you think i replaced the fuel filter by the way, by lifting the tank, because the problem started! I had not touched the bike maintenance wise for a month or so when the erratic running and power loss happened, thought it could have been contaminated fuel so emptied the tank and changed the filters, have since run it roughly for half a tank with redex, no improvement.
 
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are both exhausts getting hot?

Coil Leads

Coil

Plugs themselves? Are you one of the muppets that run thier bike in the garage for 5 mins every now and then????? If so??? Bung new plugs in problem cured

And DON'T run it for 5 minutes put an intelligent trickle charger on it and leave it till your gonna ride it!
 
not a muppet

yes checked downpipes early on, both pots are firing, as in my original post replaced both plugs. Am not running bike for five mins in a garage, this is my daily 12 month of the year transport, when testing and running redex through it i'm talking running it on open country roads and avoiding built up dangerous stalling situations. I do need to check the coils, am just after a priority check list, hopefully as this is the single spark the coils are less likely to be the culprit, but it's a starting point,
cheers!
 
If it was an old mini engine i would say the timing was out, but it's not. Have a wiggle of all the connectors under tank and around the bike. Have you got a juicy spark? blocked air filter? does it smell like it is running rich? What about if you squirt some 'start ya bastard' down the air intake?
 
OKay Mark Apologies re Muppetitis :aidan

My Thoughts are still with cables are you SURE that they are seated at the inside edge notjust out at the throttle bodies

The symptoms that your describing fit the cable thing

Hall sensors tend to work or not or run fine when cold and quit when hot

So My recommendation see if both throttles are returning completely to the throttle stops If not one cable is held out

Let us Know how ya get on!
 
Fuel injector connections on ok?

Fuel tank connections checked and secure?

Fuel injector lines clean and muck free?

Throttles balanced?

"Choke" system checked and working correctly?
 
TPS got knocked around on its adjustment slides?? Its not easy to do, but it does happen :nenau
 
Thanks for the advice folks, will let you know how I get on, cheers.
 
still running like a pig

Got round to trying to sort 1150gs running issues. To recap, bike poor to start, especially when cold, dies when throttle openned or put under load, this improves a little once warm, but still struggles when under load goin uphill especially at higher revs. Just done full service, including fuel filter change, double checked all pipes for correct position and breathers are clear. Checked fuel pressure... ok, changed plugs, checked ht leads and coil... resistance as stated in manual and plugs have nice fat blue spark. Mechanically checked hall sensor by spinning back wheel, pump keeps getting primed and sounds the same as always has. Hall sensor unlikely as problem gets slightly better not worse when warm. Checked injector resistance... ok as per manual, visually inspected but what do I know about injector patterns? Tried running bike with sensors disconnected... no difference. Throttle bodies balanced and tps set to .370ish. Set valve clearances. Changed fuel pressure regulator, WHICH CAN EASILY BE DONE BY REMOVING BOTH THROTTLE CABLES AT THROTTLE BODIES TO GIVE ACCESS UNDER THE BATTERY TRAY, NO NEED TO HINGE UP THE REAR SUB FRAME!!! The problem does feel like fuelling... ie it's just not getting enough when it needs it,plugs look like it's burning lean as I know they all do. Ordered a second hand injector to try that, otherwise only other thing I can think of to try next is a problem in the tank... bad pipe connection, badly blocked mesh filter or possibly pump on it's way out, although as I said earlier the fuel pressure was correct when tested. Again, it's a 1999 single spark 1150 GS with remus Y and silencer, Steptoe connector trick and otherwise standard. Appologies for the war and peace post... any other ideas?
 
Lambda? just try a quick journey with it out. A while ago my bike would not go above 80 under load... full stop... felt like hitting a limiter. Hit a hill and that was it. I ended up changing the Lambda and it was cured. Incidentally, I've just fitted a brand new lambda in an attempt to fix some rough stuttery running (still no good - I'm going the whole hog and changing the loom this weekend) so I've got a good spare if you want to try it. When I took off my initial buggered one the cable was all 'crusty' and cracked when you moved it - it had obviously been too close to the engine

Second thoughts - the lambda isn't used initially I seem to remember so the bad starting might not be the problem. What about the temp sensor?
 
Tried it without the lambda sensor, air intake sensor, engine temp sensor, no difference, cheers anyway
 
Incidentally, I've just fitted a brand new lambda in an attempt to fix some rough stuttery running (still no good - I'm going the whole hog and changing the loom this weekend)

Please post your results after a new loom - the lambda is one of many, many parts I've changed in an attempt to get mine to run right (when hot - fine when cold) and I'm also thinking that it may be a loom issue somewhere.

Sorry for the thread hijack - not really on topic.....
 
Hall sensor?

Although symptoms are not obviously hall sensor related, gonna have to part with some reddies at Motoworks. Stripped out fuel pump again and checked and thoroughly cleaned tank, pressure excellent with a strong flow of fuel to the injectors. Problem has got worse with same symptoms, just more exagerated. Bad to start, dies when throttle opened, misfires and stalls. Gonna try the hall sensor route. Apart from wiring harness or motronics can't think of enything else to try... Will be back!!!!
 
Are the throttle cables definately fully seated, not just the throttle body end, but also the junction box end.

Are the throttle body pulleys fully seated when the throttle is closed ?

Check that the inner cables aren't frayed and sticking in the outer covering.
 
Still no go

Having checked all fuel lines, inside and outside tank, fuel pressure is still at 40 psi, bike no better. Double checked everything else, replaced hall sensor, although old one was testing ok, still no different. Still good spark, have temporarilly disabled all sensors, ie oil temp, intake temp, lambda temp. Have good spark but injectors do seem to be producing weak spray pattern, even after cleaning. Still waiting for replacement injector to compare old ones with, is there a way to test the pulse to them, ie, what voltage or amps should the pulse read. Even resorted to purchasing a gs-911 which reported everything ok.
 
Mark you seem to have taken three trips round the world to solve this
but I haven;t seen an answer to my earlier and steptoes latter post re the cables??

i.e. are both quadrants going back all the way and hitting both throttle stops and "some" slack is the cables when the when the throttle is closed??????????

If not a cable is hung up! Inboard or outboard end it doesn't matter
What happens is that it's holding a butterfly open and starving a cylinder of the correct air fuel mixture!
 


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