Painted the front engine cover...pt1

Lord Snooty

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I recently carried out the 36k service and replaced the alternator belt. Whilst I was down there I decided that the front engine cover was due some renovation work as the ravages of winter and salt had caused the finish to corrode and it was looking decidedly scabby.

So, armed with a couple of wire brush attachments for the drill, some wire wool, 1500 grit wet and dry, a can of build primer and silver smooth hammerite I went to work.

After 20 minutes on the electric drill and some smoothing off with the wire wool all the loose paint and corrosion was removed.

I then set to work with newspaper and masking tape
 

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Paintied the front engine cover...pt2

I applied several layers of build orimer, lightly rubbing down with the wet and dry between layers.

I then set to work with the hammerite spray - again I applied several layers and rubbed down inbetween.
 

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Painted the front engine cover...pt3

The finished job - with the alternator cover installed.

It's not perfect but, it was difficult smoothing the finish off around the screw holes but it looks a lot better than when I started.
 

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Good post, I'm planning to do the same.

Looks like you used steel wire brushes?
Wouldn't it be better to use brass wire brushes to remove paint on alloy. :augie
 
Heres a link below to a post on painting the timing chest I did a while ago, paints still good after about 18 months riding (inc winter & salt)
You can safely remove all the fixings to save masking, maybe leave a couple in place,
Also recommend removing exhaust makes access so much better
I would "paint strip" cover and start again with bare alloy, (Finish off brass rotary brush and coarse 400 grade wet & dry)
Wurth etch primer avaliable on Ebay (use a mask, nasty stuff) final going over with 800/1000 grade wet&dry soapy water, rinse & dry completely
Top coat,
Simonez tough black satin finish (Ebay again) for black engines (Satin takes 24hours to "cure")
Silver Hammerite smooth satin for Silver
Remember to use etch primer on bare aluminum or it just all comes off again:blast

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136102
 
Good post, I'm planning to do the same.

Looks like you used steel wire brushes?
Wouldn't it be better to use brass wire brushes to remove paint on alloy. :augie

The circular brush is brass but the pointy one is steel.
 
That looks like a big cosmetic improvement, I would need to continue painting mine as far back as the final drive :augie
Does anyone know if conventional paint strippers (nitromors) will remove the original coating ?

Stewart
 
did mine a few months back with paint stripper and wire brush then spray painted with hammerite smooth "no primer" as it said on the tin no primer needed i pleased to report no flaking or peeling paint.........also got rid of that stupid rubber thing inside the plastic cover which caused the corrosion in the first place with no ill effects
 
Does anyone know the cost of a new front engine cover, 1200 that is. :)
 
Daft question - I warn you...

I assume there is oil behind this cover (I did say above...) - would it not just be easier to take it off and do it then?

Mine is really scabby looking now -all feathered on bottom edge :
How much is a new one and where from (if I change it)?
Can I just take it off at next oil change and do it then (if I paint it)?
 
Fins on Cylinder Heads!!

To carry on with the theme of refurbishment does anyone have an idea of the best way to clean up/paint the fin area on the cylinder heads. I suppose the best way to do all the areas that usually go would be to drop the engine!! Look forward to your replies.

Regards
 
To carry on with the theme of refurbishment does anyone have an idea of the best way to clean up/paint the fin area on the cylinder heads. I suppose the best way to do all the areas that usually go would be to drop the engine!! Look forward to your replies.

Regards

Time and a dremel:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?284833-1150-GS-Engine-Colour

If you actually mean the heads and not the rocker covers then you'll probably end up having to do it with the heads in-situ. Not impossible by any means but a bike lift will save your back...
 
Right. Obviously a very daft question as I've now seen a Chris Harris video so know what is behind it :(

Can someone recommend a powder coater I could use to get the cover sorted?
I now have a spare so will get that done and then swap.


Sent from my gadget using wires n string n stuff
 
Powder coater

Try Griff's Reality Motorworks in Bristol, or Aerocoat in Gt Yarmouth (area).

I have used Griff for Harley stuff, very good. Aerocoat do good work too. TBH it's not complicated work and I am sure there is some in the NW who can do it for you.

I usually wait until the winter and get a whole load of bits done at once, if it is all the same colour, then they use the same batch of powder so there is no variation in tone.

For the money it would cost to get the case done, why don't you buy a crud catcher and paint that up instead?
 
Try Griff's Reality Motorworks in Bristol, or Aerocoat in Gt Yarmouth (area).

I have used Griff for Harley stuff, very good. Aerocoat do good work too. TBH it's not complicated work and I am sure there is some in the NW who can do it for you.

I usually wait until the winter and get a whole load of bits done at once, if it is all the same colour, then they use the same batch of powder so there is no variation in tone.

For the money it would cost to get the case done, why don't you buy a crud catcher and paint that up instead?

Just want to tidy it up really - prevent further damage
 
Powdercoat will be fine until you get a stone chip or scratch in it. Then it will bubble up and look a mess, in a similar fashion to the original. Enamel paints, properly applied, will give you a great finish and are much easier to repair/touch up.
 


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