525EXC Clutch / Lever suddenly gone "limp"...

dakarDude

dakarDude

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Hi All,

Had no real issues with my 525EXC until in the last few days, the clutch has been a bit weird.

I've tried tightening the little adjuster on the lever, but the problem persists.

Before I start buying a clutch kit and bleeding, could you guys advise on what this may be?

1. Start bike. Fine. All good.
2. Clutch lever feels a bit slack - the lever seems to have too much free play.
3. Drop into first, holding clutch in. Release slow and try to ease off.
4. Sometimes, bike lurches forward (even with a slight release of the clutch), can sometimes stall the bike.
5. Repeat steps 1-4. Same thing sometimes happens a second time.
6. Finally, ease off into the ride.
7. Gear changing is OK but it doesn't feel like it used to.
8. After riding for some time, the clutch lever seems to "settle" into felling normal.

* I have also observed sometimes that even with the clutch pulled all the way in, if I open the throttle, the bike still "goes"!

As stated above, tried the tightening of the adjuster. Doesn't seem to help.

Any help gratefully received.

Thanks guys.
 
Most of what you describe sounds like the clutch needs bleeding. Try that first.

Greg
 
Don't use brake fluid to bleed it, use mineral oil else you'll feck it:thumb
 
Thanks for the help guys.

Just done a change of fluid for the clutch. Its not looking good I'm afraid.

I used 10 SAE fork oil (castrol, non-synthetic) for the fluid, I read in numerous forums today people have had good results with it.

It was very low i noted when I took the top off the reservoir container on the left of the handle bar. After the replacement process, it was 4mm lower than the top as specified in the manual. So thats done.

1. Next, fire the bike up. No probs. (Neutral at this point).
2. I gave the clutch lever a good squeezing a good few times - its very limp - almost no tension at all. When I pull it though, I can hear the clutch workings doing something, so the cable isn't broke or anything like that.
3. I then tentatively hold in the clutch and yank in the front brake. I know exactly whats coming next, the "lurch of doom".
4. I engage 1st gear and - yep - bike leaps forward and stalls.
5. I get back in neutral, repeat steps 3 and 4 - same again, lurch and stall.
6. Repeat steps 3 and 4 again, I'm now in first - BUT, the bike is ever so slowly moving forward, even though I have the clutch pulled all the way in.
7. I do a short and sweet run up my road and back.


Here is the weird bit - now the clutch lever (after the bike has had a little use) is tensioned as it should be, to the point there is no more limpness and it would get quite tiring keep pulling it in and releasing it.

Do I need a new clutch kit and springs etc. - have I got warped / worn out discs?

Cheers...
 
It sounds like blown seals or a knackered slave cylinder.

Was the old fluid a manky colour?
 
Womble said:
It sounds like blown seals or a knackered slave cylinder.

Was the old fluid a manky colour?
Click to expand...


Hi mate, cheers for the reply.

There wasnt much fluid in it in all honesty, probably 4 or 5 mm. What was there looked OK tbh.

:confused:
 
It has to be related to the hydraulic side - the plates and the springs aren't going to have that effect on the lever, which is good news because it should be a cheap fix.

I'd start by buying a seal kit for the slave cylinder (if there is one) and fit that. Nick at Endurotek is very good for both spares and advice.
 
Looking to be the Slave cylinder unit and a few other orings etc. that have started leaking.

Gear4ktm have come back to me and I've ordered the parts -

Slave Cylinder unit
Orings
gasket
correct fluid for re-bleed (needed some)
Front brake fluid (needed some and decided to sort this at same time as the clutch re-bleed)
delivery

£128.37
======

Needed the outlay like a hole in the head, but I'm not myself when my Katoom is not rideable!

Thanks for all the help guys. Much appreciated. :thumb2
 
Sorted! Slave cylinder cracked it. Like a new bike now! Even a pleasure test riding it earlier in torrential rain! :thumb2
 
My bike shows the same symptoms, except for the lurching forwards (due to a 'Rekluse' clutch). I guess I better start saving for a new slave cylinder then....
 
I haven't fitted my Rekluse yet (just bought one), but isn't the clutch lever on them meant to be loose at lower engine RPMs, tightening up as the revs rise? This is for the basic Z-Start, it could be different for the other versions.
 
Womble said:
I haven't fitted my Rekluse yet (just bought one), but isn't the clutch lever on them meant to be loose at lower engine RPMs, tightening up as the revs rise? This is for the basic Z-Start, it could be different for the other versions.
Click to expand...

Dunno, but perhaps I ought to read the documentation that came with the clutch kit before I go fixing a fault that isn't there. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Check out the first 40s or so of this video - is that what you're finding if you rev the bike? (make sure it's in neutral!)

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/8uhoU2dquVg?fs=1&hl=en_GB"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/8uhoU2dquVg?fs=1&hl=en_GB" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

It's because the clutch lever is loose when the Rekluse is disengaged and then firms up as the balls inside are flung outwards and take up the slack.

If it behaves differently, then you probably should get it looked at.
 
Thanks Womble, checked the clutch action and sure enough it does firm up as the revs rise (like it should), I have adjusted the lever span a bit though to compensate for the excess slack.

It's still an absolute pig to find neutral but the rekluse does its job nicely.

Saved me from fecking about trying to bleed the clutch hydraulics in the cold unnecessarily. Cold enough just changing the oil & filters today:thumb2
 
Good stuff, glad it was simple :)

If you're having problems finding neutral on an RFS engined bike, it'll be because you've got too much oil in it - believe it or not, the level should be at the bottom of the sight glass when cold. If that still doesn't work, check the clutch plates for flatness.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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