Baltic States plus Russia

Since I posted a while back about the Baltic states I've had further thoughts. As it's so near, instead of just going to the Baltic states why not visit Russia. I'd thought of St. Petersburg but then settled on Novgorod (which I discover is twinned with Watford !) as being much older and perhaps less touristy. So current thoughts are a two week trip (can't really do longer - details like work) via Berlin, Olsztyn & the Mazurian lakes, Kaunas, then head for Novgorod via Daugavpils and Ostrov, say 3/4 nights there then return via Tallin, Riga, Vilnius. I'd be sticking to tarmac and riding either my R1100RT or my R850R.

Timing, probably early June 2012.

I'd love to have time to explore on the way but it's probably this or don't go. Any thoughts gratefully received ( and yes I probably am mad but at 66 time is not on my side)

John Gudgeon

I'm just back from Russia. We were on a charity ride see Moscow to Moscow thread for link to blog etc. Unfortunately, our charity commitment meant we couldn't hang around anywhere. We took the Baltic route up through Poland (Gdansk), Lithuania (didn't stop), Latvia (can recommend excellent hostel in Riga) and Estonia. Crossed the border into Russia at Narva. Very straightforward. Motorcycles pay €1 bridge toll and don't have to queue. Process took a couple of hours, but very good humoured ... no corrupt officials, bribery, etc. involved. You hear a lot of negative things about riding in Russia, but most seemed to be based on old info or urban myth.

St. Petersburg was a bit of an anti-climax. Probably because we were there on a Monday and the Hermitage was closed. We didn't stop in Novgorod so can't advise, but we loved Moscow and can recommend a couple of biker bars.

The road from St. Petersburg to Novgorod is the same that we used to Moscow and is in a pretty dire state. A friend describes it as potholes interspersed with patches of tarmac, and that is about accurate. It is a three-lane highway, i.e. one crater filled lane in each direction and an overtaking lane down the middle. You get little notice of the end of your right of way, but the on-coming trucks usually give you a bit of a clue! Russian driving takes a bit of getting used to. Cars overtake on both sides, down the hard shoulder as well, so the best way of staying safe is to go faster than them! Given the road surface, you need nerves of steel and a bit of off-road experience wouldn't go amiss.

P.S. It is well worth taking a little time to learn how the Cyrillic alphabet is pronounced. Once you can sound out the words in your head, you will find a lot of similarity between common Russian words and English or French.

Thanks for that, most useful. I'm learning Russian from an ex-Moscow girl who lives a few streets away from me in Norfolk - I did start 20 years ago but quickly gave up. Maybe if I come at Novgorod from the South via Ostrov the roads will be better - or not ! Still, having ridden my fully laden RT one and a half kilometres up a mud and rock hill track on my way to Morocco last year to reach some overnight accomodation, then back down again, I think I'm ready for potholes - it'll be just like Norfolk. I imagine that, being the main route from Moscow to St. Petersburg the road gets a fair hammering.

The hostel in Riga could be useful - I'm hoping to stop off there to hear the cathedral choir who have a very good reputation.

Thanks again

Riga is great craic. May be a bit too popular with noisy British stag parties these days, but there are loads of hostels and everyone seems to speak English. We didn't bother to book in advance, but here is the Trip Advisor review for the Ala Hostel:

Audēju iela 11, Rīga, LV-1050, Latvia +371 26 409 323

Check out this http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=614915

Some friends here in Estonia did the trip through Russia ....