Wilburs rear shock too long?

MattW

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I've just fitted a second hand Wilburs rear shock to my '94 1100.

It was a bit of a sod to fit because it seemed longer than the OEM shock (I had to force the swingarm right down against the exhaust collector to get the top bolt in).

Sure enough, now that everything is back together, it's definitely a longer to the point that both wheels are touching the ground when the bike's on the centre stand and the swingarm is against the exhaust collector. It's not really a problem when off the stand and the suspension has sagged slightly (apart from a slightly higher ride height which is fine as I'm 6').

It's definitely the right shock - it came with the original box and paperwork.

Any other Wilburs users found this :confused: and are there likely to be any ongoing problems?
 
It will be a bugger to remove either tyres or clean the rims, unless the centre stand rests on a spacer or something.
Also be aware that the bike can roll forward easier as there is less weight on the stand.

Sorry can't comment on the shocks, however, as the ride height has changed, are you getting any vibration from the drive shaft as the UJ's angle has increased? reason why is because I've just changed mine to Ohlins and there is increased vibration with the increased ride height.
 
I've just fitted a second hand Wilburs rear shock to my '94 1100.

It was a bit of a sod to fit because it seemed longer than the OEM shock (I had to force the swingarm right down against the exhaust collector to get the top bolt in).

Sure enough, now that everything is back together, it's definitely a longer to the point that both wheels are touching the ground when the bike's on the centre stand and the swingarm is against the exhaust collector. It's not really a problem when off the stand and the suspension has sagged slightly (apart from a slightly higher ride height which is fine as I'm 6').

It's definitely the right shock - it came with the original box and paperwork.

Any other Wilburs users found this :confused: and are there likely to be any ongoing problems?

1150GSA - mine were exactly the same length as OEM and correlated with what was on the box:thumb
 
Bugger - I'm going to have to take the fecker off again, and measure it aren't I?
 
Right - just removed it and compared with the OEM - 10mm longer than the OEM (289 centre to centre, stock is 279). The difference in height looks to be all in the 'arms' of the bottom yoke fitting.

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4yy5tldOKukM9FPTzQdoUkOOAeJkWHiivqDz0FeWdvU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A6uq0DzQIhM/TlUip9Fk5_I/AAAAAAAAFLo/lEUD6J4cWqY/s800/IMG_5984.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SDuJu-Co6G_ctOd3QLTRjkOOAeJkWHiivqDz0FeWdvU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aJG9Nkqm52k/TlUisI_4uvI/AAAAAAAAFLs/ABKt6WOMnXM/s800/IMG_5985.JPG" height="800" width="600" /></a>

does it have adjustable ride height on the top eye?

Not as far as I can tell - it looks like the top eye's casting is threaded onto the body but it doesn't look 'adjustable'...

It's definitely too long to live with - rolls off the centre stand far too easily and the swingarm is butted hard against the exhaust.
 
Right - just removed it and compared with the OEM - 10mm longer than the OEM (289 centre to centre, stock is 279). The difference in height looks to be all in the 'arms' of the bottom yoke fitting.

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/SDuJu-Co6G_ctOd3QLTRjkOOAeJkWHiivqDz0FeWdvU?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aJG9Nkqm52k/TlUisI_4uvI/AAAAAAAAFLs/ABKt6WOMnXM/s800/IMG_5985.JPG" height="800" width="600" /></a>

Not as far as I can tell - it looks like the top eye's casting is threaded onto the body but it doesn't look 'adjustable'...

If I remember correctly, the adjuster near the top of the shock mount doesn't half look like the ride height adjuster on my old RSV's Ohlins rear shock. You might want to check the documentation. From what I can see in your pictures you have: Spring preload set by the ring nut on the collar, damping set with the remote reservoir, and ride height with the black knob.

In fact, which end is the top?
 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

If I remember correctly, the adjuster near the top of the shock mount doesn't half look like the ride height adjuster on my old RSV's Ohlins rear shock. You might want to check the documentation. From what I can see in your pictures you have: Spring preload set by the ring nut on the collar, damping set with the remote reservoir, and ride height with the black knob.

Not quite - preload set by the remote reservoir (the collar just sets the static preload), damping (rebound only) set by the knurled collar above the bottom yoke.

Edit: Just checked the documentation - nothing about ride height adjustment.

cheers
Matt
 
:blast Of course, preload is set with the remote reservoir. I use it for psuedo damping because my damping adjustment is rubbish.

Send it back. :thumb
 
They do an option for a 10mm longer shock, a few have had these.

When working on the bike simply place a section of MDF or simlar under the stand before lifting the bike.

Set the sag correctly for your loaded riding weight. The lock rings above can be moved to place the pre-load ajuster in the centre of the required adjustment range.
 
They do an option for a 10mm longer shock, a few have had these.

When working on the bike simply place a section of MDF or simlar under the stand before lifting the bike.

Set the sag correctly for your loaded riding weight. The lock rings above can be moved to place the pre-load ajuster in the centre of the required adjustment range.

And carry a piece of timber around with me in case I ever want to put it on the centre stand away from home? It rolls off the centre stand with a gentle push.

If I'd known I was buying a 10mm longer shock, I'd have been ready for this but as it is, it's no use to me. Bodges involving chunks of wood and the swingarm hard against the exhaust at rest weren't in my plan.
 
ask revs racing how much to convert to standard length? :nenau

Well a service and postage each way comes to over £100 so guestimate £150 to include conversion (probably a different bottom yoke assuming it's possible at all)? Add that to the purchase price of the shock and I might as well have shelled out the extra for a new one with a warranty :nenau

Any chance there is space to redrill the mtg holes at the correct mark or will this cause a foul.

No - unfortunately they would overlap.

And in the end as I said above, bodging a shock I bought as a straight like for like replacement wasn't what I had in mind...
 
Well a service and postage each way comes to over £100 so guestimate £150 to include conversion (probably a different bottom yoke assuming it's possible at all)? Add that to the purchase price of the shock and I might as well have shelled out the extra for a new one with a warranty :nenau



No - unfortunately they would overlap.

And in the end as I said above, bodging a shock I bought as a straight like for like replacement wasn't what I had in mind...

Oh well...... sell it on to another unsuspecting, tosser like you.:D
 
And carry a piece of timber around with me in case I ever want to put it on the centre stand away from home? It rolls off the centre stand with a gentle push.

If I'd known I was buying a 10mm longer shock, I'd have been ready for this but as it is, it's no use to me. Bodges involving chunks of wood and the swingarm hard against the exhaust at rest weren't in my plan.

The one I had fitted to a 99 1100 worked fine with no problems. It certainly was never in any danger of coming of its stand.

The wheels could still be turned, the tires just scrapped the ground a little when turned by hand.

Sounds to me like something else is set wrong.
 
Well a service and postage each way comes to over £100 so guestimate £150 to include conversion (probably a different bottom yoke assuming it's possible at all)? Add that to the purchase price of the shock and I might as well have shelled out the extra for a new one with a warranty :nenau


True, but you have bought this one now, so having it altered might be your best way out?

...unless you find someone who wants to buy a shock that's too long.
 
One solution would be to find an engineering shop, get them to fill the holes you have with suitable weld / plugs, drill new ones in the right place and machine the finish back to original size.
 
The one I had fitted to a 99 1100 worked fine with no problems. It certainly was never in any danger of coming of its stand.

The wheels could still be turned, the tires just scrapped the ground a little when turned by hand.

Sounds to me like something else is set wrong.
My feelings too. When it was fitted to my old bike ,there were not any issues either.
 
My feelings too. When it was fitted to my old bike ,there were not any issues either.

So as you've joined this conversation wreck diver, are you saying that you knew the shock was over-length?

But it makes no difference - an overlength shock doesn't fit my 1100, I didn't want an overlength shock and I DIDN'T BUY AN OVERLENGTH SHOCK! Someone else on here I've spoken says that even a 5mm overlength shock (which they purposely ordered) was a tight fit. This one is +10mm.

It wasn't advertised as overlength and it was also advertised as having warranty remaining, which it doesn't. I think I have every right to ask for a refund.
 


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