Mike O has detailed the cable-swap and his excellent guide can be found on the AdvRider Hall of Wisdom:
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/GS throttle cable swap.html
If you are contemplating doing the same and your bike was built before December 2004, then you will get a different main cable (the one from the throttle-grip to the splitter-box) and you will need the replacement guide.
The new cable cannot be fitted to the old guide.
The new cable is Part # 32737692561
The new guide is Part # 32727691990 (listed as SET: REP.KIT ACCELERATOR CABLE DEFLECTION) on the BMW fiche.
Here's what it is:
It took a little head scratching to see where the new parts went and what exactly they replaced and how, so this may save you some similar puzzlement.
Remove the hand-guard, the end-weight and the mirror.
Locate the bottom cover screw of the switch-block:
There is another screw holding the bottom cover in place at the extreme end of the underside near the brake master cylinder. Mine was solid and rather than chew the screw-head, I just pulled the plastic bottom cover down a bit.
Locate the self-taping screw that is hidden by the (now removed) mirror stalk and remove it:
Lift the switch-block clear (it needs to be off of the throttle guide under the rubber grip) so that the twist-grip can be slid along the handlebar.
If your bike has heated grips, feed some more of the control cable into the handlebars to allow you to pull the twist-grip along the bar a little.
You need enough room to be able to get at the two (now exposed) cross-head screws (replacements are included in the kit). They are removed in this photo:
Once you have the screws out, you can slide the old cable-guide towards the twist-grip. It is located on the lug on the underside of the handlebar and has a ring of plastic around the bar:
Rather than removing the twist-grip from the handlebar completely, just snip the plastic ring in a couple of places (you won't be needing it again):
It's pretty obvious where the new parts fit so I won't insult your intelligence, you will end-up with an arrangement like this:
and a pile of redundant parts like this:
The modification is apparently because the old parts allowed the cable to jump out of the guide (that's what I was told anyway) but the up-side is that the cable adjuster at the twist-grip end is easier to work than the old one.
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/GS throttle cable swap.html
If you are contemplating doing the same and your bike was built before December 2004, then you will get a different main cable (the one from the throttle-grip to the splitter-box) and you will need the replacement guide.
The new cable cannot be fitted to the old guide.
The new cable is Part # 32737692561
The new guide is Part # 32727691990 (listed as SET: REP.KIT ACCELERATOR CABLE DEFLECTION) on the BMW fiche.
Here's what it is:
It took a little head scratching to see where the new parts went and what exactly they replaced and how, so this may save you some similar puzzlement.
Remove the hand-guard, the end-weight and the mirror.
Locate the bottom cover screw of the switch-block:
There is another screw holding the bottom cover in place at the extreme end of the underside near the brake master cylinder. Mine was solid and rather than chew the screw-head, I just pulled the plastic bottom cover down a bit.
Locate the self-taping screw that is hidden by the (now removed) mirror stalk and remove it:
Lift the switch-block clear (it needs to be off of the throttle guide under the rubber grip) so that the twist-grip can be slid along the handlebar.
If your bike has heated grips, feed some more of the control cable into the handlebars to allow you to pull the twist-grip along the bar a little.
You need enough room to be able to get at the two (now exposed) cross-head screws (replacements are included in the kit). They are removed in this photo:
Once you have the screws out, you can slide the old cable-guide towards the twist-grip. It is located on the lug on the underside of the handlebar and has a ring of plastic around the bar:
Rather than removing the twist-grip from the handlebar completely, just snip the plastic ring in a couple of places (you won't be needing it again):
It's pretty obvious where the new parts fit so I won't insult your intelligence, you will end-up with an arrangement like this:
and a pile of redundant parts like this:
The modification is apparently because the old parts allowed the cable to jump out of the guide (that's what I was told anyway) but the up-side is that the cable adjuster at the twist-grip end is easier to work than the old one.
