Iceland in July

Finbarr

Registered user
Joined
Sep 9, 2009
Messages
47
Reaction score
0
Location
London, England
Hi there - I'm in the throes of planning a trip to Iceland leaving in very late June and spending most, if not all of July there. :JB

I intend to ride to Denmark via chunnel from St Albans in the UK and catch the ferry from there to Iceland. I don't want to ship the bike or rent - I'm taking my bike and for me the ride to Denmark is part of the trip - I may take a couple of days to do it. My birthday is July 1st and I'd like to be in Iceland by then to celebrate. :beerjug:

Once there, my intention is to explore the highlands as much as possible, so there will be a lot of off-road (as much as my abilities and fitness allow) riding. I tend to take each day as it comes on trips like this and won't be working to some pre-cooked plan. I'm taking a tent and limited camping gear, but will happily stay in B&B's if the weather gets really nasty for more than a day or two. Given the length of stay and the cost of hotels, I expect it will be very rare that I decide to stay in one.

I'm on an 1150GS and intend taking my time and having a relaxed but eventful trip. I'm riding solo and don't think this trip will be suitable for those with pillions.

If this sounds like something you might enjoy tagging along (even for just some of the trip) then let me know. I understand that taking a month off for most people is simply not doable, so if you'd like to jump in for a week or so we can certainly see if timings can be worked out.

Post a reply here if you're interested or even if you just have some helpful comments to share. :bounce1

Cheers,
John.
 
Hi Finbarr

I am thinking of Iceland in 2013 so have looked at a few ferry options and trip reports, etc.

One thing that strikes me is that you are planning 1 July in Iceland (birthday).

Are you aware that the Smyril ferry from Denmark will take near enough 3 days and goes via the Faroes, where I think it stops for 12 hours. I think it may only go on a Tuesday from Denmark anyway.

The long ferry time is why some folks fly to Iceland from the UK and hire, but obviously for a longer trip in Iceland, this works out expensive. But hiring gives the option of a smaller, more easily handled bike than a 1150 or 1200 GS off-road.

I am in northern Germany, so a trip to northern Denmark is straight forward for me, but I am toying with a stop off in the Faroes.

I will be watching your trip planning and wish you the best. It looks like a rather special place.

Grey Beard
 
Hi Grey Beard,
I've done quite a bit of reading of various trip reports on ADV Rider and others about the situation with the ferry and still prefer to do it this way rather than hire a bike there.

A ride around thre Faroes will be fun and another part of the trip.
I haven't looked at timings of the ferry crossing as regards which days they sail yet, but am intending to do this in the next few weeks. i checked their website recently and there wasn't anything posted - so I'll probably have to give them a call.

If I can't make it to iceland in time for July 1, it's no big deal - I'll celebrate when I get there! :D

Have you read Bikis blog post about riding a DRZ 400 in Iceland? It's in German and she gives some great insight into what to expect.
I have quite a few links if you (or anyone else) are interested to read them.

Cheers.
 
Hi Finbarr

Thanks for the link for the German trip report. I have not read that one (my German is not good enough but Google Translate to the rescue)!

The smaller bikes sound ideal for the more difficult interior off-road stuff.

Iceland does seem to require a lot of time. Say one week travel to and from Iceland and add another one week for the Faroes if that option is selected. That leaves only 2 weeks for Iceland in a one month expedition. I think some recommend longer than 2 weeks in Iceland, especially if you are visiting the interior and of course you need to allow for inclement weather. Even if the weather is not exactly freezing, it seems it can be rather wet and very windy.

I did talk to Svenja at Smyril line in Kiel, late last year and she was very helpful. However, the ferry time tables for 2012 let alone 2013 were unavailable at the time. I just checked again today and for a Hirtshals departure Sat 2 June 2012 15:00h/arriving Seydisfjordur Tues 5 June 07:00h and return from Iceland Thurs 5 July 10:00h arriving Hirtshals Sat 7 July 13:30h with motor bike and 4 berth cabin shared, the cost is Euro816 including Faroese taxes.

That is a outward mid season journey and high season return. Meals are extra if you dine on board (Breakfast €12, Lunch €9, Dinner €25, Drinks extra of course). You could probably bring some food with you if on a tight budget and eat a decent buffet breakfast for the main meal. Couchettes are available cheaper, but you cannot lock the room where they are for security and you need to bring your own bed linen/sleeping bag liner plus towel.

Ferries do not run November to March inclusive, as the weather in the North Atlantic can be too ferocious.

I think there is an extra ferry from 16 June from Hirtshals to the Faroes only. If I were to stop off in the Faroes, en route to Iceland say Tuesday 5 June, then I would have to stay there one week, but later you could probably juggle something with the second ferry.

It's a pity it is relatively difficult/time consuming to get to as it seems an under visited location, given the spectacular beauty and ruggedness of the place. Lots of things to see.

Grey Beard
 
Being based in northern Germany, I wrongly assumed you spoke German - silly me!

Here's another great trip report (from Germany, but in English this time) which looks in more detail at the logistics, especially once you get there.

Helpfully for me, Pip also rides an 1150GS, although not being too technical he gets a bit sidetracked with minor mechanicals that could easily be sorted on the road rather than spending days finding a bike mech.

I'm not worried about how long the trip takes - I have a month to play with (more if I need it) so will simply leave late June and come back early August if thats the way the ferry/Faroes timing works out.

It isn't cheap is it? From what I've read the Couchettes are a disaster and best avoided - I'll be going for a 4 berth cabin. My timing maybe such that I attract high season prices for both legs.

Do you know if it's possible to book one way to Iceland and then late July or so, book the return leg when dates become known, or is it simply too busy by then?

Cheers,
Fin.
 
Being based in northern Germany, I wrongly assumed you spoke German - silly me!

Here's another great trip report (from Germany, but in English this time) which looks in more detail at the logistics, especially once you get there.

Helpfully for me, Pip also rides an 1150GS, although not being too technical he gets a bit sidetracked with minor mechanicals that could easily be sorted on the road rather than spending days finding a bike mech.

I'm not worried about how long the trip takes - I have a month to play with (more if I need it) so will simply leave late June and come back early August if thats the way the ferry/Faroes timing works out.

It isn't cheap is it? From what I've read the Couchettes are a disaster and best avoided - I'll be going for a 4 berth cabin. My timing maybe such that I attract high season prices for both legs.

Do you know if it's possible to book one way to Iceland and then late July or so, book the return leg when dates become known, or is it simply too busy by then?

Cheers,
Fin.
Hi Fin

I think you're right about the couchettes and also the high season prices. I was told they will be like normal beds, but it's probably very noisy/disturbing with people coming and going, plus no private shower/toilet. I already decided against couchettes, but must say I was surprised how expensive it was overall. But it's cheap compared to DFDS Harwich to Esjberg, based on the length of the journey.

The weather window is rather tight, as I've heard winter can last until end of June as regards to interior road closures, let alone rivers being in spate, making crossings challenging, if not impossible.

I guess you could probably book a single trip outwards and then take a chance booking a return journey. But if you are returning in July that will be high season and as you must book a cabin/couchette, this may be the problem. I would suspect that you will have to pay more also.

Maybe better to book a return and then ask Smyril Line what a change of dates would cost. Must be possible if someone has an accident and has to delay the return slightly. The German number in Kiel is 0049 431 200 8875, but I think you will find a UK number (probably 08718 900 900 from the UK) if you don't have free phone calls to Europe in your phone tariff.

Maybe you could drive/ferry out and fly back, after shipping the bike back to the UK. Some people seem to have shipped the bike, but not sure about one way costs. But saves a potentially boring return journey by road.

I think I will probably invest in some off road training and perhaps a quick course on bike maintenance. I haven't messed much with the bike, apart from some electrical stuff and fitting some farkles. That's the problem with warranties, but if you break down in the back of beyond, you may not see anyone for days and it's probably a hard place for bikes. I even heard the road surfaces were particularly aggressive on the tyres.

Grey Beard
 
Islands er mjog gott ef pu hafa GS....!

You guys are lucky........We were in Iceland twice with the GS in May and there was snow! Also some friends used the 'couchettes'on the Norrona and slept so badly they missed a fantastic days riding around the Faroes with our Icelandic friends. Those 'in the know' also take their own food and beer onto the Norrona rather than eating in the very expensive cafes onboard.

The cheapest 'spring' crossing to Iceland we had then(2006) was around £850return including the return ferry to Shetland from Aberdeen.....One bike, two passengers and cabins all the way. Three days each way and I wish they still did the same route as you got to see Shetland aswell.

Couldn't make it to Dettifoss the second time either and all the interior roads were closed with snow, my friends couldn't even get out of Seydisfjordur for a day either untill the pass was clear a week earlier.

It's an unwritten rule in Iceland that you'll get help from someone if you need it......Most of my friends there are in ICE-SAR and they'll help you out if you have a problem....I've only been into the interior with my friends in their Superjeeps on snow in the winter but we did take our GS in past Karanjuker when it was being built but had to turn back due to the weather, it was absolutely freezing!

As for 'offroad' riding its actually illegal to ride offroad although sandurs and riverbeds are ok and the worst we came across were F' roads which were mostly ok but sometimes difficult in places but there was nothing we couldn't handle two up although Mrs P had to bale off a few times and push.....Anyone who messes around crossing deep rivers on their bikes want their heads examined exspecially if they're riding alone.

£185 return for a two hour flight from Glasgow sounds good to me this time although the downside is eighty miles a day cycling......Those headwinds can be a real nightmare and there's sometimes no shelter to take a pee without getting your own back unless you're very carefull.

Last time in 2010 I had to turn back at Eyjafjallajokull as the ash storms were just too dangerous to ride through and spend most of that trip on Vestmannaeyjar watching puffins and then riding the Golden Circle and round Hvalfjordur....The weather was exceptionally good that time though.

Iceland is as 'tough' as you want it to be and my good friend Suzie managed to ride her brand new £600 Hongdhou 200cc 'Chinabike' everywhere our kick ass GSA' went and at a fraction of the price(much to our German uber Touratech'd GS riding friends consternation).....She'd had no offroad traing or even experience and had only ever ridden a bike in a straight line for 28 miles and then only once, although the bike did fall to pieces in the Westfjords and we had to rescue her......! After finding and refitting her rear rack complete with her spare fuel can and all her camping gear she was good to go!

First time we went to Iceland we got ISK 114-£1 and it was expensive but cheaper than Norway, second time we got ISK 128-£1 which was better, the best we've had was ISK 223 just after the crash but the kronur was valueless in the UK and we changed our Scottish money in Keflavik because we couldn't buy any in the UK.......This time it's same as last time at around 195 ISK-£1 which is reasonably good and that means I can eat as much Hamborgarar, franskar og cocktail sosa as I want!


Whatever you do in Iceland it's always going to be an adventure but don't be too surprised if you fight your way all the way up a rough gravel road to an amazing glacier only to discover that there's already an Italian couple there having a picknick next to their Toyota Yaris rental........:eek:


FP.:thumb
 
Y

As for 'offroad' riding its actually illegal to ride offroad although sandurs and riverbeds are ok and the worst we came across were F' roads which were mostly ok but sometimes difficult in places but there was nothing we couldn't handle two up although Mrs P had to bale off a few times and push.....Anyone who messes around crossing deep rivers on their bikes want their heads examined exspecially if they're riding alone.

FP.:thumb

Hi FP

I understand the river crossings bit, especially as a 1200GS or similar is heavy enough to get off you on dry land let alone in a freezing river and risk of drowning. I guess travelling solo in Iceland, particularly in the highlands, is a no, no. I suppose the problem with river crossings ís that there will be a temptation to have a go, rather than face a possibly long return journey back the way you came.

Do you people who have been to Iceland numerous times recommend knobblies or is a standard off road tyre OK? i.e. semi normal tread pattern but strengthened carcase.

I guess the off road thing (actually off any tracks) would be similar to the rules in Norway as the northern tundra vegetation is slow growing and easily damaged by vehilces.

Grey Beard
 
I suppose the question crossing rivers is always how deep is deep?.....Even on the Isle of Skye I was 'messing around' on my HP2 crossing the Glenbrittle ford and thought i'd have another go as the 'spash' would look good in the photos......What could possibly go wrong eh??:blast

My Belgian friend Kris had a great time crossing the interior on his old R80GS solo and I don't think he had too many problems although his bike is so beat up I doubt if you'd notice any fresh damage, I think he did wait for jeeps at river crossings just in case though!

At least when you're cycling you won't flood your engine.....But i'm not going too far off the beaten track on this trip as the ringroad will be long enough.....Maybe too long!

Tyre wise it's been TKC80 or Karoo's for me as i'm not that into 'offroad' and it's the long tarmac sections of the ringroad that wear away the tyres.

I also watched Heldge Pedersens Globeriders Iceland DVD with an Icelandic friend and he was non too happy when he saw them digging up some 'tundra' when the F650GS's got stuck although some folks there are just as unhappy about their own countrymens Superjeeps and there's an increasing number of quadbikes in the highlands aswell although I guess they spread the weight more or at least mine does.

One thing for sure is that regardless of where you go in Iceland you're going to have a fantastic time.....Even the normal roads are gravel in a lot of places and there's an adventure to be had around every corner!

I'm leaving a bottle of malt whisky 'Geocached' somewhere and you'll be welcome to have a 'wee dram' if you can find it......! I'm thinking just off the ringroad in the 'Eldhraun' at the moment but somewhere near Jokulsarlon may be better:beerjug:

FP.:thumb
Hi FP

I understand the river crossings bit, especially as a 1200GS or similar is heavy enough to get off you on dry land let alone in a freezing river and risk of drowning. I guess travelling solo in Iceland, particularly in the highlands, is a no, no. I suppose the problem with river crossings ís that there will be a temptation to have a go, rather than face a possibly long return journey back the way you came.

Do you people who have been to Iceland numerous times recommend knobblies or is a standard off road tyre OK? i.e. semi normal tread pattern but strengthened carcase.

I guess the off road thing (actually off any tracks) would be similar to the rules in Norway as the northern tundra vegetation is slow growing and easily damaged by vehilces.

Grey Beard
 
Hey guys,
Great replies - thank you for taking the time to post.
Yes, I'm aware that off-road is illegal - by saying off-road I meant "not on tarmac" but sticking as much as possible to 'F' roads.

The whole river crossing thing is going to be interesting - I certainly won't be taking any risks. I'm likely (at this stage anyway) to be travelling solo and by taking a whole month to travel around I'm hoping to reduce the pressure to 'push on' and do things that are too risky.

I'm doing off-road courses (on my DRZ) at the moment and have fitted the GS with a set of Mitas 09 tyres (will get another set to take with me). I'm also in the process of removing the servo/ABS brake system and replacing the lines with steel braided ones. Doing this job myself - have to replace the clutch before I go too, that should be a larf!

I'm hoping that the weather in early July will be good enough to deal with the easier stuff and really get to grips with the more interesting F roads later in the month - all while trying hard not to plan too much in advance, but be flexible enough to take opportunities as they arise.

Anyway - I'm off to go and do some riding!

Cheers,
Fin.
 
Planning continues...

Hi folks, thought I'd post an update as it's been a while since I posted anything about the trip. I've made quite a lot of changes to the bike: I have removed the ABS and servo brake unit and have replaced the brake lines with steel braided ones. I've also stripped out the BMW standard suspension and replaced it worth Hyperpro performance shocks front and rear. I've replaced the clutch, which was within millimetres of its useful life, removed the chocolate hand guards and replaced them worth Acerbis ones and generally given the bike a good going over. It's running beautifully.

I have also completed Patsy Quick's stage one and stage two off road course's - I learned a lot and gained a lot of valuable experience for the trip. Highly recommended.

Lastly, I've just got my ferry crossing tickets and have managed to get a four berth cabin outbound and inbound all in for 950 Euros return, so I'm pretty happy. I thought the cost was going to be around 800 Euros each way, so pretty relived it's return. I'm leaving on the 3rd of July and returning the 9th of August.

This is the bike in March - I must get a pic of it now with all the new bits on!
1150gs.jpg
 
Iceland

Did the Iceland trip go okay, is there a ride report on it anywhere?
I am planning a trip and would really like to hear about your experiences.
 
Yes - Iceland was magnificent!
I haven't had a chance to write this up yet - however there are some photos posted on my Facebook page - they're high quality, so use a big monitor and view them full screen: Iceland Pics.

Happy to chat with you about the trip and assist with planning.
Send me a PM and I'll give you my email address if you're interested.
 
Mesage Error

1.Finbarr has chosen not to receive private messages or may not be allowed to receive private messages. Therefore you may not send your message to him/her.

This message comes up when I try to PM you. Could you please PM me with an email address and I will send an email,

Cheers, Steve
 
Ooops! Didn't realise that was set - sorry about that.
You can email me at 'john at gastric dot com'.

Cheers.
 
fantastic pics really enjoyed them on Facebook :beerjug:
 


Back
Top Bottom