£291 to change brake fluid on Honda CBR600RR with ABS

dave hendy · May 10, 2012

My 2010 Honda CBR600RR needs it's 2 year service and Honda say the brake fluid needs to be changed at the same time. So I went into Reading Honda to get a quote for the work, the service about £200 and the brake fluid ON TOP of that another £291.49!!!!! Are they having a laugh, that's something that needs doing every 2 years what a nice little earner

!

Have tried to querry it with Honda UK but they say it's up to the dealer what they charge

.

Makes BMW look cheap! My K1300R is having it's 1st year service today including changing the brake fluid £210 (I was told) :thumb2

So anyone with a Honda or thinking of getting one beware!!

Dave

richie · May 10, 2012

dave hendy said:
My 2010 Honda CBR600RR needs it's 2 year service and Honda say the brake fluid needs to be changed at the same time. So I went into Reading Honda to get a quote for the work, the service about £200 and the brake fluid ON TOP of that another £291.49!!!!! Are they having a laugh, that's something that needs doing every 2 years what a nice little earner!

Have tried to querry it with Honda UK but they say it's up to the dealer what they charge.

Makes BMW look cheap! My K1300R is having it's 1st year service today including changing the brake fluid £210 (I was told)

So anyone with a Honda or thinking of getting one beware!!

Dave

2 years old either don't bother or do it yourself, no warranty anymore, I guess?

dave hendy · May 10, 2012

richie said:
2 years old either don't bother or do it yourself, no warranty anymore, I guess?

It has 1 year extended warranty. The dealer says it takes 4.5hrs as it is a complicated job :blast

I have done bleeding on bikes with normal brakes before but not sure about this bike??

ebbo · May 10, 2012

Blimey, 4.5hrs, it must be some system, didn’t take me that long to do the servo brakes on my 1200

Fanum · May 10, 2012

dave hendy · May 10, 2012

Shame that would be cool if it was a ABS model :confused:

Rang another dealer and he said about £160 or so :nenau

A bit better but still too much

rudiemoto · May 12, 2012

4.5 hours for brakes
i will ring my mate who works for honda uk
will update tomorrow chaps
somethings not right :comfort

dave hendy · May 12, 2012

rudiemoto said:
4.5 hours for brakes
i will ring my mate who works for honda uk
will update tomorrow chaps
somethings not right

That would be great :clap

the person I spoke to at their customer service couldn't careless

When I asked who I could speak to as I wasn't happy with his response he said the dealer or himself

Give me BMW customer service and Honda quallity of finish :thumb2

Pixter · May 12, 2012

Sounds like the dealer's having your trousers down mate! That's just taking the piss!

I change the brake and clutch fluids myself (every 12k miles or when I can be arsed) and it takes about half an hour....costs about £10 for fluid.

Get a vacuum pump and do it yourself. Then you can go to the pub to celebrate your awesomeness! :jager

dave hendy · May 12, 2012

Pixter said:
Sounds like the dealer's having your trousers down mate! That's just taking the piss!

I change the brake and clutch fluids myself (every 12k miles or when I can be arsed) and it takes about half an hour....costs about £10 for fluid.

Get a vacuum pump and do it yourself. Then you can go to the pub to celebrate your awesomeness!

Ithink they are taking the piss but it is more of a job than a normal brake bleed! I have a vacuum bleeder and have done brake line changes etc before. I would have a go if I didn't think I could cause myself more trouble. But the dealer must be able to do the job for a reasonable cost?

Fanum · May 12, 2012

dave hendy said:
Shame that would be cool if it was a ABS model

I have zero experience with your bike (I'd have my knees around me ears if I even managed to sit on it :blast

) but I suspect you'll probably find that the ABS system just adds a few more connections that you need to bleed in a common sense, logical order.

I watched Steptoe do mine (1150GSA with evo servo/abs) and it was just that......a common sense, step by step progression working the system through....nothing fancy, just a bit more complicated with a few more steps in it than bleeding a 'normal' brake system.

That was the first video I found, but spend a few minutes looking on YT and similar places and I wouldn't be surprised if there was a complete step by step video of an ABS system being done.......It's the sort of thing that people like filming for the kudos and to help others :thumb2

If you fekk it up, you'd learn from it and work out how to do it better.....or you could take it to the dealer after if necessary....just think it through and follow the basic principles and test ride it CAREFULLY and you'll be fine :comfort

dave hendy · May 13, 2012

Fanum said:
I have zero experience with your bike (I'd have my knees around me ears if I even managed to sit on it ) but I suspect you'll probably find that the ABS system just adds a few more connections that you need to bleed in a common sense, logical order.

I watched Steptoe do mine (1150GSA with evo servo/abs) and it was just that......a common sense, step by step progression working the system through....nothing fancy, just a bit more complicated with a few more steps in it than bleeding a 'normal' brake system.

That was the first video I found, but spend a few minutes looking on YT and similar places and I wouldn't be surprised if there was a complete step by step video of an ABS system being done.......It's the sort of thing that people like filming for the kudos and to help others

If you fekk it up, you'd learn from it and work out how to do it better.....or you could take it to the dealer after if necessary....just think it through and follow the basic principles and test ride it CAREFULLY and you'll be fine

I am in no hurry to do anything at the moment as I am brake fluid doesn't get to 2 years and go that's it I am not going to work any more. My mate hasn't changed his fluid in 7 years (that might be a bit too far) :nenau

I wanted others to be aware although to be fair I think this only effects the 600RR and possibly the Fireblade the other Honda models use a simpler system :blast

Myke Rocks · May 13, 2012

dave hendy said:
I am in no hurry to do anything at the moment as I am brake fluid doesn't get to 2 years and go that's it I am not going to work any more. My mate hasn't changed his fluid in 7 years (that might be a bit too far)

Not far enough. Skeleton dangling by brake fluid & bike manufacturer.
My 1200rt is 7 years of age, and I have not, nor do I plan to change the brake fluid in it.

Myke

The Grey One · May 13, 2012

Myke Rocks said:
Not far enough. Skeleton dangling by brake fluid & bike manufacturer.
My 1200rt is 7 years of age, and I have not, nor do I plan to change the brake fluid in it.

Myke

A simple brake fluid test would show just how much moisture has been absorbed by the fluid and therefore just how low the boiling point now is!

As I used to say to my garage customers - you can find people who have played Russian roulette 5 times and are still with us-that does not mean it is safe.

John

B4ndit · May 13, 2012

Might be time to invest in a service manual.

Myke Rocks · May 13, 2012

I agree, but:

The Grey One said:
A simple brake fluid test would show just how much moisture has been absorbed by the fluid and therefore just how low the boiling point now is!

As I used to say to my garage customers - you can find people who have played Russian roulette 5 times and are still with us-that does not mean it is safe.

John

Even more skeleton dangling!
Why not test the brake fluid instead of changing it, since, on a motorcyle, unlike a car, it is not exposed to the atmosphere, and is less likely, therefore, to absorb moisture.

The Grey One · May 13, 2012

Myke Rocks said:
Even more skeleton dangling!
Why not test the brake fluid instead of changing it, since, on a motorcyle, unlike a car, it is not exposed to the atmosphere, and is less likely, therefore, to absorb moisture.

I agree completely -testing should be part of the MOT test as it is here in Austria. Time interval changes can only be a rough guide, testing is a better option. When I ran my garage we tested brake fluid at every service and replaced it as required-of course since it was an independent Citroen garage most of our customers had vehicles that used the far superior LHM fluid-does not absorb moisture and being a mineral oil lubricates moving parts.

When I started the business in 1977 reliable brake fluid testers were rare and expensive, these days they are not expensive and should be used in every repair shop. I would be interested to see the results from your 7 year old fluid.

Being a bit of a cynic I think that hygroscopic brake fluid serves a useful purpose for the industry. Lots of replacement parts sales caused by moisture. Otherwise why have they not switched to something better? Remember that most cars and bikes have braking systems made by an outside company. No doubt they have to produce components to a price so a healthy replacement market is in their interest.

The basic point remains that brake fluid with a significant moisture content boils at a lower temperature than new fluid. When brake fluid boils you have no stopping power. Since the energy of the car/bike travelling at speed is converted to heat it follows that the heavier the vehicle and the faster it is travelling produces more heat. Why would you not want the best possible brakes? Certainly around here especially it's a good idea-we have just a few hills!

John

Myke Rocks · May 13, 2012

I agree with this as well, but:

The Grey One said:
The basic point remains that brake fluid with a significant moisture content boils at a lower temperature than new fluid. When brake fluid boils you have no stopping power. Since the energy of the car/bike travelling at speed is converted to heat it follows that the heavier the vehicle and the faster it is travelling produces more heat. Why would you not want the best possible brakes? Certainly around here especially it's a good idea-we have just a few hills!
John

Yes, all true, but in the real world,how often have you, or anyone else in this forum boiled the brake fluid whilst engaged in normal road use of a car or motorcycle?

On track, I have often boiled new brake fluid in a car, but never in road use.
In road use, I have, since the instigation of disk brakes, only faded brakes once in a car.
On a motorcycle, I have faded front brake once. New pads supplied were the wrong pads, and a single 85mph to zero stop left the bike without a front brake.
The problem of degraded brake fluid is grossly exaggerated by the brake fluid suppliers to stimulate sales.

Only a guess, but: Current motorcycle brake systems are so good in relation to the risk of fluid boiling that I guess that if you were to replace the brake fluid with water on a roadgoing bike, you would never cause it to boil, even on the steepest of hills. No, I wouldn't like to try it, it is only a guess.

Myke

Phil Magill · May 13, 2012

I find the easy way to change brake fluid is to, drain the fluid from the reservoir, I use a turkey baster from the £1 shop to suck it out, clean the reservoir with a lint free cloth, top it up with new brake fluid (and keep it topped up) and pump it through the brake system with the brake lever until clean fluid and no bubbles come out the other end.

Can't understand how the dealer can justify that price.

The Grey One · May 13, 2012

Myke Rocks said:
Yes, all true, but in the real world,how often have you, or anyone else in this forum boiled the brake fluid whilst engaged in normal road use of a car or motorcycle?

On track, I have often boiled new brake fluid in a car, but never in road use.
In road use, I have, since the instigation of disk brakes, only faded brakes once in a car.
On a motorcycle, I have faded front brake once. New pads supplied were the wrong pads, and a single 85mph to zero stop left the bike without a front brake.
The problem of degraded brake fluid is grossly exaggerated by the brake fluid suppliers to stimulate sales.

Only a guess, but: Current motorcycle brake systems are so good in relation to the risk of fluid boiling that I guess that if you were to replace the brake fluid with water on a roadgoing bike, you would never cause it to boil, even on the steepest of hills. No, I wouldn't like to try it, it is only a guess.

Myke

I think your guess would be wrong-modern brakes are so good they must generate a lot of heat-where else does all that energy go? In any case look up the boiling point of water and figures for heat generated by disc brakes. You will find that water would boil under fairly gentle braking.

And one failure might be more than enough!

Since we opened here 4 years ago we have had a huge number of bikes through. Of those we have had three or four instances of brakes failing-thankfully all have been rear brakes and apart from some soiled underwear there where no unpleasant consequences. In all cases we could find no failure of pads or calipers and once things had cooled down the brakes returned to normal. We do, of course, have lots of mountain passes with sharp bends and bikes are often, shall we say, well loaded and ridden with some spirit. It is only in such extreme conditions that the problems occur but then you could argue that 2 front discs aren't needed as one will stop you adequately most of the time!

I too don't think brake fluid should be changed at fixed intervals, obviously manufactures are covering there rear ends with the time intervals they quote -don't forget your "new" vehicle could have stood around for months before delivery. The fact remains that water content reduces the boiling point of hygroscopic brake fluid which in then reduces the safety margin. And this for want of a simple check that can be carried out in minutes.

So don't change it if it is OK but if it fails a test get it changed for the safety of yourself and your fellow road users.

John

£291 to change brake fluid on Honda CBR600RR with ABS

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Registered user

Toubab

Well-known member

Registered user

Well-known member

Registered user

Well-known member

Toubab

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Registered user

Well-known member

Well-known member

Well-known member

Active member

Well-known member

Similar threads