Hot Starting Issues

john_aero

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may be taking a runto view a xchalleneg in few eeeks.

its has pretty beathen up exhaust and mudguard bent from offroading

but price may be right

he has said he finds it very hard start when hot.

is this a common issue as i never heard of it before
 
may be taking a runto view a xchalleneg in few eeeks.

its has pretty beathen up exhaust and mudguard bent from offroading

but price may be right

he has said he finds it very hard start when hot.

is this a common issue as i never heard of it before

Check to see if the battery has been upgraded. IIRC there may have been a recall for this.

Apparently the bikes run very lean if/when the battery is low.

Might need a good charge or just replacing.
 
easy check so mustring lad and ask him when he back froms hols

but think bike was member sbiek here last year and got fair thrashing.

just valve clerance come to mind whn hear hard starting when hot
 
easy check so mustring lad and ask him when he back froms hols

but think bike was member sbiek here last year and got fair thrashing.

just valve clerance come to mind whn hear hard starting when hot

Valve clerance!!! Good place to start, wouldnt think battery(or cold start would also be a problem due to compresion):thumb
 
Valve clerance!!! Good place to start, wouldnt think battery(or cold start would also be a problem due to compresion):thumb

said the valves were done by last owner by bmw dealer.

but done mean checked or done mean adjusted. if they had be adjust at 5k then i would be getting worried
 
said the valves were done by last owner by bmw dealer.

but done mean checked or done mean adjusted. if they had be adjust at 5k then i would be getting worried

Biggest problem with dealers doing tappets is not letting the bike cool down before shims or adjustment, a bike should be stone cold!! major problem on the 1200's. Never had a bike in for a service without having to re adjust tappets on arival home:eek:
Not good when paying dealer prices for a job to be done:augie
 
be honest if valves are an issue then i would start concider leaving the bike as not worth getting one with valves out for last year
 
hope this helps

besides wiring loom issues, which might only show up when warm,
the idle actuator might need cleaning.
actuator pix C bmw
also check the oxygen sensor leads or the sensor, [a comsumable], specially since the exhaust is beaten up.
After a job on the idle actuator, do the re-set procedure, which is described on the ADVrider forum.
prior to the re-set, dismantle the battery connection and connect the terminal leads, don't know if this is voodoo, but the current is supposed to disappear completely.
to enable the software to learn the new and correct settings, do this:

thanx to adv friends

Josey
 
sorry bring this back up

but ar these items (actuator and batt) covered under warranty even if its a 2007 bike?
 
sorry bring this back up

but ar these items (actuator and batt) covered under warranty even if its a 2007 bike?

If it is an outstanding recall that hasn't been done, then you may be able to get the battery done?

It might also be worth stripping the thottle body and cleaning the by-pass route for the idle unit.

While your in that far, pop the rocker cover off and check the inlet valves, these have a very small gap/ tolerance, and it doesn't take much for them to tighten up- if they are to tight, burnt gases get back past the inlet valves and the fist place it soot's up is the idle circuit on the throttle body.

DAMHIK :blast
 
well have not got bike yet. just want make sure if do get good deal on it not gettign a bucket of shite internally
 
this is back again

had cleaned the actuator and fitted back indid the reset (as per advrider)

it now is worse than was with hot starting

so much so have rev it to keep it going otherwise dies

any other thing do here.

templight still flashes when turn key on so going by past posts thismeans actuator still not working right?
 
get a used actuator from motorworks on a sale or return basis

If it works happy days if it doesn;t then send it back

I had an F650GS heap of schite that annoyed my brain for months The best thing I coulda done was fit a friggin carb to it

If they are right they are a great bike but once they start F***in around they are a pain in the arse

It would start and run but cut out after 35 to 45 seconds I watched it with the GS911 it started to lower the revs and the ECU started to open the throttle valve but always too late

I made up extra earths, changed the Ecu, the Idle valve, Intake to head rubber, airbox drain adaptor that had split, I ultra sonically cleaned the throttle body, changed the TPU, changed the injector, temp sensors water and air. etc etc etc

A proper Solution? Fit a Bloody Good carb!!! Grrrh I hate them with a vengeance now!

Oh the cure in the end was to be set up with your gear on start the bike and ride off, Once you came to lights you blipped the throttle lightly or kept slight pressure on it just enough to allow a slight flow of air Not a bad wee bike otherwise
 


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