Anyone done it on the 650 Dakar with ABS without the BMW fandango special ABS brake bleeder thingy ?
Can it be done as per normal brakes or is it dodgy doo ?
Can it be done as per normal brakes or is it dodgy doo ?
Bleeding brakes!
- Thread starter Captain Black
- Start date
Nobody done the brakes with ABS on a Dakar ?
Bmw wan't 75 quid to change the brake fluid FFS!!!
Bleeding robbers......
Bmw wan't 75 quid to change the brake fluid FFS!!!
Bleeding robbers......
adventurecrv
Registered user
Did my wife's 2007 F650GS with ABS. All I did was empty the reservoir with a syringe, top up with new fluid, pump the lever, hold the lever, open the brake bleeder, close the bleeder, and repeat the pump-hold-open-close until new fluid came through the bleeder.
No issues for me doing it that way.
I also put a tube on the bleeder and ran it into an old pop bottle to catch the old fluid.
Be careful not to let the reservoir run dry.
Did the same on my Ford F150 w/ABS without issues as well.
Here is a good link for the 1200GS w/o servo unit:
http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_2007+_Brake_Bleed.html
Chris
No issues for me doing it that way.
I also put a tube on the bleeder and ran it into an old pop bottle to catch the old fluid.
Be careful not to let the reservoir run dry.
Did the same on my Ford F150 w/ABS without issues as well.
Here is a good link for the 1200GS w/o servo unit:
http://www.jimvonbaden.com/R1200_2007+_Brake_Bleed.html
Chris
vfxmark
Registered user
Just did my 06 12GS ABS (servo) brakes, wife's 99R1100S ABS (non servo) and her 01? F650 GS ABS
All easy enough without any fancy special tools. (1200GS the hardest as it has not two but FOUR hydraulic circuits)
Less true if you disassemble or overpump to let air into system, but
if you syringe out the old stuff upstairs, refill with fresh, and pump through you should have no worries.
Tips for them that don't want to mess it up:
1. but a wet towel (not the wife's favorite one) over the body work under the handlebars for the front and over the passenger peg bracket in the rear so that overspill does not get on bodywork... the wetness of the towel meshes with the spilled brake fluid and reduces the chance of messing up the paint... but remove and flush immediately you realize you have spilled.
2. When reservoir is full, when you gently pump the handle you see a little bump in the surface of the fluid. As you gradually pump out the fluid, that little bump becomes a geyser headed for the inside of your windscreen and dripping down the body work... keep res. filled and start the pumping GENTLY.
3. before you get to the end of any stroke, gently ease the bleed screw closed so that when you release the lever you don't suck air in through the caliper.
4. unmount brakes from bike and pry the pads apart to force all the fluid up into the brake system. Use thin wood wedges, a spare brake pad, cards from a deck of cards, stacked pieces of platinum sheet, or whatever you have to hold the pads apart, keeping the brake slave cylinders fully pushed into the caliper. This way, when you are done bleeding and top of the reservoir, and then pump the brakes tight to the rotor after remounting them, you will have the right amount of fluid in the system.
What is the right amount? The right amount is the amount in the system that DOES NOT OVERFLOW ALL OVER YOUR PAINT when you buy new brake pads next summer and force the slave cylinders back into the calipers.
Also, by doing this, you displace the fluid from the slaves - the very fluid most likely to pick up water - especially you lot what lives in the cloudy drizzle of the UK.
Hope this helps
mark
All easy enough without any fancy special tools. (1200GS the hardest as it has not two but FOUR hydraulic circuits)
Less true if you disassemble or overpump to let air into system, but
if you syringe out the old stuff upstairs, refill with fresh, and pump through you should have no worries.
Tips for them that don't want to mess it up:
1. but a wet towel (not the wife's favorite one) over the body work under the handlebars for the front and over the passenger peg bracket in the rear so that overspill does not get on bodywork... the wetness of the towel meshes with the spilled brake fluid and reduces the chance of messing up the paint... but remove and flush immediately you realize you have spilled.
2. When reservoir is full, when you gently pump the handle you see a little bump in the surface of the fluid. As you gradually pump out the fluid, that little bump becomes a geyser headed for the inside of your windscreen and dripping down the body work... keep res. filled and start the pumping GENTLY.
3. before you get to the end of any stroke, gently ease the bleed screw closed so that when you release the lever you don't suck air in through the caliper.
4. unmount brakes from bike and pry the pads apart to force all the fluid up into the brake system. Use thin wood wedges, a spare brake pad, cards from a deck of cards, stacked pieces of platinum sheet, or whatever you have to hold the pads apart, keeping the brake slave cylinders fully pushed into the caliper. This way, when you are done bleeding and top of the reservoir, and then pump the brakes tight to the rotor after remounting them, you will have the right amount of fluid in the system.
What is the right amount? The right amount is the amount in the system that DOES NOT OVERFLOW ALL OVER YOUR PAINT when you buy new brake pads next summer and force the slave cylinders back into the calipers.
Also, by doing this, you displace the fluid from the slaves - the very fluid most likely to pick up water - especially you lot what lives in the cloudy drizzle of the UK.
Hope this helps
mark
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