As above, what are they like, what do I need to look for when buying? Any advice greatly appreciated.
Wisdom on XR250's
- Thread starter johnnyboy
- Start date
Great bikes
Good trail bikes with quality Enduro components & will stay with most things on the trail
Pretty bulletproof
Kick only, but have an auto decompressor so easy to kick over
Usual Honda build quality
I really rate them for trailriding & ok for trail bike rallies
Here's mine
Good trail bikes with quality Enduro components & will stay with most things on the trail
Pretty bulletproof
Kick only, but have an auto decompressor so easy to kick over
Usual Honda build quality
I really rate them for trailriding & ok for trail bike rallies
Here's mine
Do they come with electric start too? Not that it's an issue for me but I've seen a couple on ebay that state they have both. Would this be a different model to the one you own (both described as xr250's and look identical to yours)?
Some japanese imports had electric starting options, but no kickstart
Personally I would have kickstart because it's more reliable & when you're stuck in the middle of nowhere at least it will start eventually
Best is electric & kick, but not available on XR's
Imported japan market XR's - They can be differentiated because they have a metal tank, indicators & lower suspension
UK XR's have plastic tanks, are lighter & are better suspended, with no indicators but street legal lighting
Personally I would have kickstart because it's more reliable & when you're stuck in the middle of nowhere at least it will start eventually
Best is electric & kick, but not available on XR's
Imported japan market XR's - They can be differentiated because they have a metal tank, indicators & lower suspension
UK XR's have plastic tanks, are lighter & are better suspended, with no indicators but street legal lighting
We use them in Cambodia for Camboenduro and as Johnny dsays they are pretty bullet proof , go anywhere and are easy to fix if they do go wrong . We use electric start XR250's and Baja 250's with the twin headlight , great bikes . I have an XR 400 out there which has a bit more grunt , but is kick start only and in 40 degree C heat it can be a bit of a sweat to start but is incredibly capable . After my first Cambo trip I bought an XR 250 on my return . It was mint and of superb build quality for a 2003 bike . I now have a 450EXC but the XR was a very forgiving bike , and easier power in the woods I'm off there again in a week or so Can't wait
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Many Thanks for the advice/comments.
crawling finn
Registered user
Lost spark?
Perhaps some of you would be able to help.
I'm trying to get my mate's XR250 R going. It has been left for 6 months when it refused to start and I'm now trying to fire it up again. I know that these bikes have a habit of closing the valve clearances and in deed there was no play on the intake valves to begin with. I have set the valves now and get 70 PSI compression from cold engine therefore lack of compression shouldn't stop it firing up. I have also drained the tank and carb and put some fresh fuel in.
Spark plug gets wet when kicking the bike over but has spark when placed in open air against the head. According to Haynes manual the spark should be able to strike over 7 mm gap in open air, however I don't get it to jump 5 mm gap which is minimum on my spark tester. Therefore I'm thinking that there is no spark under compression. New spark plug hasn't helped, and I have also checked and cleaned all wiring connectors in the loom with no avail.
Looks like I need to start replacing ignition components next. None of the manuals I have been able to find list any resistance values for the 1996 onwards models, only that peak primary voltage should be 100V. Unfortunately I have no way of measuring that to check the primary coil.
Would you have any suggestion where to start or how to check whether any of the components are faulty?
My own experience is that spark plug gap either starts striking through or fails completely. I this case I don't get shock when holding the gap and there is a small spark on the plug when tested outside the cylinder. Failing coil usually stops working first when hot, and I'm assuming that if the CDI unit was faulty I wouldn't have any spark at all. To me this all points to the stator coils but they are damn expensive to replace so I don't fancy swapping the stator without doing all I can to exclude other components.
Any tips or advice would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Crawling Finn
Perhaps some of you would be able to help.
I'm trying to get my mate's XR250 R going. It has been left for 6 months when it refused to start and I'm now trying to fire it up again. I know that these bikes have a habit of closing the valve clearances and in deed there was no play on the intake valves to begin with. I have set the valves now and get 70 PSI compression from cold engine therefore lack of compression shouldn't stop it firing up. I have also drained the tank and carb and put some fresh fuel in.
Spark plug gets wet when kicking the bike over but has spark when placed in open air against the head. According to Haynes manual the spark should be able to strike over 7 mm gap in open air, however I don't get it to jump 5 mm gap which is minimum on my spark tester. Therefore I'm thinking that there is no spark under compression. New spark plug hasn't helped, and I have also checked and cleaned all wiring connectors in the loom with no avail.
Looks like I need to start replacing ignition components next. None of the manuals I have been able to find list any resistance values for the 1996 onwards models, only that peak primary voltage should be 100V. Unfortunately I have no way of measuring that to check the primary coil.
Would you have any suggestion where to start or how to check whether any of the components are faulty?
My own experience is that spark plug gap either starts striking through or fails completely. I this case I don't get shock when holding the gap and there is a small spark on the plug when tested outside the cylinder. Failing coil usually stops working first when hot, and I'm assuming that if the CDI unit was faulty I wouldn't have any spark at all. To me this all points to the stator coils but they are damn expensive to replace so I don't fancy swapping the stator without doing all I can to exclude other components.
Any tips or advice would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Crawling Finn
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