'93 Cali 3 carbed version

ELIMINATOR

ELIMINATOR

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This is where I begin asking numerous questions


Nearly fainted when I realized that the spin on oil filter lives inside the sump:confused:

Stupid question time:blast Dipstick has two horizontal mouldings on it, assuming these are top & bottom levels.

Took the dual brake reservoir cover off, fluid is a dubious dirty colour.

Is there a correct procedure for bleeding the front & rear brake, or more likely, just go for it? Nothing to be wary of?

I've just removed the seat, hmmm, held in with a cap head bolt, looks as if originally there was a lock.

Sprayed the relay connections with ACF50.

The R/H side panel is cracked around the screw holes.:blast

Thought it wasn't going to start, I had the sidestand down.:augie

Headlamp, how does the black plastic fitting at the back come off? is this where the Headlight bulb is changed from? or does the front have to come off? hope note, as there is a rivet in one of the two holes, other has a screw there.
 
Filters are a messy pain in the arse to change. There is an external filter conversion but it leaves the filter exposed. My Cali stone had one fitted but mashed the oil filter on a speed bump :rolleyes:

Stein Dinse is a good source for parts and also have all the mirofiches for your bike http://www.stein-dinse.biz/Moto-Guzzi:::1.html

I just bled brakes through back/front a couple of times and never seemed to have an issue.

Cracked panels and missing bits just add to the charm. Bailing wire and twine holds them together well - Thats why the Irish lads love them so much :D
 
Ha ha ;-) Re the filter its no big deal to drop the sump and it means you can give it a good clean along with the gauze filter while you're in there.

Brakes are nothing special, same as any other bike, just be aware that if linked the foot lever will operate one of the front discs.

Sounds like you're gonna have to get involved with this bike - the start if a beautiful relationship!

Andres
 
ELIMINATOR said:
This is where I begin asking numerous questions


Nearly fainted when I realized that the spin on oil filter lives inside the sump:confused:
Click to expand...

stick a car scissor jack underneath it while you take all the sump bolts, then lower gently and remove. reverse the procedure to re-fit.
what is it, 18 bolts? :eek

clean out the gauze filter and entire sump pan if it's really shitty in there.

ELIMINATOR said:
Stupid question time:blast Dipstick has two horizontal mouldings on it, assuming these are top & bottom levels.
Click to expand...

correct

ELIMINATOR said:
Is there a correct procedure for bleeding the front & rear brake, or more likely, just go for it? Nothing to be wary of?
Click to expand...

front brake will be no bother.

linked system is different. IIRC you're supposed to start furthest away, at the rear wheel, then the front. can't be sure TBH, but you may find that whatever you do, it won't bleed to a hard pedal. this is pretty common.
people will tell you about taking the calipers off and holding them upside down or whatever to get the trapped air out, but i reckon some form of power bleeder is the way to go. the master cylinder just doesn't shift enough fluid.

i used to use a gunson thing that costs about a tenner. works great, but you need a custom cap for the top of the master cylinder, there's tendency to get fluid everywhere and the actual gunson kit reacts badly to brake fluid :blast

it is cheap though :D

i now use a mityvac, which works nearly as well & is a lot less grief.

the other stuff you asked, i don't know :nenau
 
I'd forgotten about it being tricky to bleed the linked bit - I've always used a big syringe and bit of tubing to suck the fluid through - works a treat :)

Andres
 
That was quick, thank you.:thumb2

Bleeding the combined brakes should be OK then, not as if it's like fitting new brake lines, then it can be a pain.

Loosened off one of the footboards as it didn't pivot very easily.

Might get my syringe out tomorrow, suck as much of the old fluid out of the reservoir, before topping it up with fresh stuff.
 
Rob Farmer said:
... Cracked panels and missing bits just add to the charm. Bailing wire and twine holds them together well - Thats why the Irish lads love them so much :D
Click to expand...
Hrumph! :mad:
it's true though. Only Bike i've ever had that gets admiring glances and chats with old farmers reminiscing about tractors. :blast

cookie said:
sumpting sumpting... :blagblah
what is it, 18 bolts? :eek

yes :banghead:

brakes;
but you may find that whatever you do, it won't bleed to a hard pedal. this is pretty common.
yes.
Click to expand...
.....
 
Another job will be to remove the back wheel and paint the underside of the mudguard with Waxoyl.

Too late for the front, probably nee removing, cutting out the rust and welding in a patch. cue, my welding mate.:D
 
ELIMINATOR said:
That was quick, thank you.:thumb2

Bleeding the combined brakes should be OK then, not as if it's like fitting new brake lines, then it can be a pain.

Loosened off one of the footboards as it didn't pivot very easily.

Might get my syringe out tomorrow, suck as much of the old fluid out of the reservoir, before topping it up with fresh stuff.
Click to expand...


that will work ok IF you don't get any air in the system. only open the bleed nipples as you press the pedal and shut it as you reach the end of the pedal travel.

it's the little bubbles caught in things like the banjo bolts that cause the grief.
 
Another question. Looking at various spares sites, I'm not sure if my Cali' has contact breakers or not? Surely it can't?
 
When I've had trouble bleeding bike brakes before, I found that removing the caliper and letting the pistons pop out a bit, then pushing them back in fast, shoves the bubbles out of the reservoir. (Clamped one side so that doesn't just pop out.) Nearly shite myself when I saw a fountain of hydraulic fluid above the reservoir though.
 
ELIMINATOR said:
Another question. Looking at various spares sites, I'm not sure if my Cali' has contact breakers or not? Surely it can't?
Click to expand...

Only takes a moment to look inside the mushroom between/behind the cylinders? Or it did on my old Convert, but a previous owner had discarded the airbox so I don't know if that affects access...
 
ELIMINATOR said:
Another question. Looking at various spares sites, I'm not sure if my Cali' has contact breakers or not? Surely it can't?
Click to expand...

If you have points you're in for a whole mountain of fun and frustration especially if you have the standard airbox fitted. You'll need fingers like a gynecologist and a selection of bizzarre bent spanners. :D
 
Is there a quick way to find out if it's got points? My airbox looks intact.
 
Take the tank off:eek:

Hmm, mine has the remote fuel tap fitted:rob:blast, think I'll wait till the tank is nearly empty, then siphon out what is left in the tank before I consider removing it.
 
and while you're at it take the front engine cover off to make sure the front engine bolt hasn't seized up.
 
Rob Farmer said:
and while you're at it take the front engine cover off to make sure the front engine bolt hasn't seized up.
Click to expand...


You mean this one?
I think you can virtually guarantee that bolt has seized. :D

A63LowerEngineMountRemoval.jpg


A64EngineMountSheared.jpg
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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