Fork alignment and bleeding.

fatnfast

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Mar 13, 2005
Messages
1,207
Reaction score
13
Location
SE Kent, England
Just stripped the forks and lower brace off to give then a cosmetic make over. As I had gone this far I also treated them to new seals and oil.
Im about to put it all back together and was wondering if someone who has done the job can shed a little light on:

1. Tightening the telelever ball joint top nut (the 130Nm one). The haynes says to align the clamp straight ahead, hold the allen screw on top and tighten the nut. Cant see how it matters if its exactly straight ahead, as its a ball joint? Also, any tips to make getting it real tight easier to do?

2. Assembly and alignment of the forks. Not clear in the haynes, but Im guessing that its finger tight on the upper and lower brace clamps, wheel spindle and spindle clamp bolts. Bounce it up and down, then torque it all up?

2. Venting/bleeding the forks. I can see theres a little screw at the fork top to remove. Is it a case of opening the valve with the front wheel off the ground then tighten it up again with the forks installed?

Its not on my 1150gs, but my newly aquired 1100 Boxer Cup.:)
 
Fork Method

Hi Fatnfast,
Telelever front forks are a bit different to normal teles.
First thing is the bottom yoke - the four M8 cap screws must be fitted using Loctite so before re-assembly run an M8 tap down the threads to clear old Loctite and clean the screw threads also.
Then rebuild the legs through bottom yoke and into top yoke and fit top nuts and bottom yoke screws loosely(DO NOT APPLY LOCTITE AT THIS STAGE). then refit the front wheel and spindle etc and again refit all screws loosely.
The top yoke does absolutely nothing for fork rigidity or alignment - hence the top fork studs are only secured to the top yoke through rubber bonded Metaflex bushes - the job of the top yoke is purely a device to allow you to turn the forks.
All rigidity and alignment comes from the four clamp bolts in the bottom yoke and the two clamp bolts on the front wheel spindle along with the main spindle nut.
Now the next steps may be difficult on your BoxerCup with NO centre stand! so I'll describe how I do my 1150GS and you can figure out your end!!
With the bike on centre stand I make sure the front wheel it pressing slightly on the ground by packing bits of wood or similar under the back wheel - this makes sure the fork tubes are kept fully seated in the bottom yoke and keeps a bit of friction on ground.
Now with wheel straight ahead tighten fully the top nuts - hold the tube with a spanner under the yoke - making sure you have the vent screws pointing in a sensible direction for access later!
Now if you grip the handlebar & front of wheel & move in opposite directions the forks twist all over the place - SO, you now need to nip up all screws in bottom yoke & wheel spindle area so the twisting is tighter and holds it position. You then need to CAREFULLY align the forks perfectly by "sighting" across the front edge of the bottom tubes and "sighting" down the front of the top yoke to the front of bottom yoke etc - or similar. Carefully tighten all screws fully to secure - but keep checking alignment as a wee bit of pressure when nipping up can put a twist back into forks.
Once all screws are tight and alignment is still spot-on all you have to do is Loctite the four cap screws in the bottom yoke. Slacken and remove ONE screw at a time and apply Loctite, refit and tighten to correct torque, then do the remaining three screws the same way - this maintains the alignment and rigidity while you apply Loctite and torque up.
Hope this makes sense?- it sounds a bit long-winded but it works well for me - it's just difficult to explain - I think that's why all the manuals just brush over the subject with "now re-assemble the forks"
If I remember correctly the vent screw should be opened then closed to vent each leg with the bike at it's normal ride height - on it's wheels with a rider seated.

Cheers......................Grizzly:beerjug:
 


Back
Top Bottom