kiwi1150
Registered user
Any suggestions ?
all electrics sealed under tank ,suspecting blocks or some where handle bars
all electrics sealed under tank ,suspecting blocks or some where handle bars
GS1150 suddenly dosent like wet days ,misses cuts out etc (fine until it rains !!?)
- Thread starter kiwi1150
- Start date
Twin spark or single?
If it's a twin spark, pull the coil packs and check them out.
On either, run the bike in the dark and see if you can spot any HT leakage
Does the rev counter twitch when it's misbehaving?
If it's a twin spark, pull the coil packs and check them out.
On either, run the bike in the dark and see if you can spot any HT leakage
Does the rev counter twitch when it's misbehaving?
kiwi1150
Registered user
Cheers will try that is Twin Spark
Yes is twin spark will check that out thanks ,last time in rain died in less than 5 mins ,hardly time for moisture to even get in any where ?
Yes is twin spark will check that out thanks ,last time in rain died in less than 5 mins ,hardly time for moisture to even get in any where ?
It might not have to 'get in' anywhere......if part of the HT system is 'leaking', just enough rain to make a circuit to earth could be enough
Also check your side stand cutout switch....if that has been damaged or is exposed, a little rain might be affecting it intermittently.
EDIT......If it was mine, I'd be standing there on a dry day with a squirty bottle of water and a can of WD40, attacking small areas to see if I could replicate the problem......shouldn't be too hard to find it, if it's a reliable fault
GS1150 suddenly dosent like wet days ,misses cuts out etc (fine until it rai...
Contrary to what many think, fresh water doesn't actually conduct electricity (at least not the 12v DV on a bike), it will however conduct the high voltage of the ignition and will conduct anything when mixed with road salt etc. I'd do as Fanum says and selectively spray around the various ignition components to see if you can isolate where the fault lies.
I'd also get a can of ACF50, lift the tank and spray all the gubbins underneath and any accessible connectors around the bike. Even better, remove the tank, disconnect each wiring plug / socket, quick spray of acf, re-make the connection, cleaning up any manky ones you find along the way. This is one of the things that acf50 was developed for (jets on aircraft carriers, regularly getting doused in seawater - about as harsh an operating environment as you can get).
Contrary to what many think, fresh water doesn't actually conduct electricity (at least not the 12v DV on a bike), it will however conduct the high voltage of the ignition and will conduct anything when mixed with road salt etc. I'd do as Fanum says and selectively spray around the various ignition components to see if you can isolate where the fault lies.
I'd also get a can of ACF50, lift the tank and spray all the gubbins underneath and any accessible connectors around the bike. Even better, remove the tank, disconnect each wiring plug / socket, quick spray of acf, re-make the connection, cleaning up any manky ones you find along the way. This is one of the things that acf50 was developed for (jets on aircraft carriers, regularly getting doused in seawater - about as harsh an operating environment as you can get).
Does the ACF50 leave a film over everything that comes of on your hands later? Reading all this I'm tempted to take up Matt's suggestion and apply some of this onto all the connectors on my new to me GS. But my old GS was covered bloody everywhere!, in 'Duck Oil' by the previous owner which makes a real flippin mess! So don't want to repeat that!
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Yes it does leave a film and it 'creeps' when applied (part of the reason that it's so good at doing what it does). And yes, dirt tends to stick to it. However this isn't a problem under the tank where you can apply it without too much concern. For exposed connectors and places that you may come into contact with just spray some into a pot and apply with an artists paintbrush. It's a good time to check all the connectors for corrosion and 'green fur' and clean them up where necessary before acf'ing them.
Thanks Matt. Useful feedback. Think I'll do it but I'll 'target' the places i use it.
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kiwi1150
Registered user
Thanks once again ,one of the 1st things I did was disconnect the side stand all to gether (so I new it wasn't that ,had a problem on a Dakar previously).
meant to say thing the Rev counter was flicking about abit.
I initially took the tank off ,checked all connections for moisture air dryed ,covered in light grease ,then covered all with tyre tube ,as extra water sealing & down infront of tank too. (no joy).
Its a bit like hitting the kill switch ! So will check out Ht as you suggest.
meant to say thing the Rev counter was flicking about abit.
I initially took the tank off ,checked all connections for moisture air dryed ,covered in light grease ,then covered all with tyre tube ,as extra water sealing & down infront of tank too. (no joy).
Its a bit like hitting the kill switch ! So will check out Ht as you suggest.
ChrisH Kerry
Registered user
Sounds like Hall sensors - read on here before that they failed after a drenching and tachometer freaks out is also a sign as Matt says.
Trullion
Registered user
HES failure was my first thought too if the rev counter needle is erratic.
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kiwi1150
Registered user
Many thanks to all help ,Have more options now ,will drop off to my mechanic to check over with your helpful info.
It does sound like the HES......and your mechanic is likely to give you an eye watering price for a replacement.....the Bosch OEM replacement is nearly £200.
You can get them for a lot less though, new...there's a Greek firm who've been selling them on Ebay and I've not heard anything bad about them......
Essentially, the HES plate is very simple, and made of less than £10 worth of parts...it's just two sensor units (which are available online from people like rs-online), a metal plate (that has to be accurately cut and pressed) and a bit of high temp wire ending in a cheap multiplug.
There have been quite a few threads here on how to 'fix' them yourself......you can use the plate you already have and change either the rockwell sensors themselves or the wiring/plug if that's where the failt lies......there are also threads on how to diagnose where the fault is
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