Higher Mileage K - what to look out for

I had a k100RS from new for a couple of years which was a really good bike. I did 64k miles on it and apart from 3 replacement rear shocks nothing else went wrong.

So I'm thinking I'd quite like a 16 valve RT or LT. There seem to be quite a few around at good prices most have 100k+ kilometers some approaching 200k with slightly scruffy examples available for around 1000 euros, which seems like a decent deal to me.

What should I look out for, I know the engines are good for high miles but what about gearboxes, clutches and final drives, are there any tell tale signs of imminent failure?

Chas

All the 16v bikes are Paralever models, the final drive is the same as the 4v Boxers up to the 1200 with minor differences in the spring/strut mounting point. So check for play in the bearing in the same way. Bearing/seal replacement is just as simple as the Boxers. Ratios alter between some models.

Gearboxes are robust but if you do need a replacement make certain that it has the lugs for the Paralever bar (later K100LT and K75 gearboxes had the lugs but were not drilled - easy to do).

Clutch: How long's a piece of string? Longevity will depend on how it's been used. More likely is the failure of the output shaft O-ring. The O-ring seals the shaft under the retaining nut and collar. This rarely leads to clutch contamination as the leak is small. It's cheap in terms of parts to fix but means splitting the transmission from the bell-housing. The indication that the O-ring has failed is misting between the (dry) joint between the gearbox and the bell-housing but more frequently by oil on the underside of the gearbox just ahead of the main stand (there's a handy drain hole for the oil and clutch material to escape and coat the underside).

Fuelling can be problematic on higher mileage bikes if the throttle body rubbers and O-rings are perished or cracked.

Thanks for the information Mike, are the throttle body rubbers and O rings easy to replace>

As I say, I've only had a new reliable K and don't have any experience of working on them.

Yes. They are easy to access once whatever fairing type panel is off.

Hi Chas, I specialise in the older Ks, (K75, K100 and K1100), and I'm based in the Pas de Calais region. As you know, there is no controle technique for bikes, this combined with the fact that the Ks are normally very reliable, means that they don't get the maintenance they need.
Customers usually contact me when when the bikes will no longer run!
If you're thinking of buying a 'cheaper' K in France, you really need to check everything thoroughly, paper-thin discs are the norm, water/oil pump wear is common, along with electrical problems.
Depending on where you're based, my best advice would be to buy in Germany as the bikes are so much better maintained due to the TuV test.

Ijustwanttoseethephotos said:

Hi Chas, I specialise in the older Ks, (K75, K100 and K1100), and I'm based in the Pas de Calais region. As you know, there is no controle technique for bikes, this combined with the fact that the Ks are normally very reliable, means that they don't get the maintenance they need.
Customers usually contact me when when the bikes will no longer run!
If you're thinking of buying a 'cheaper' K in France, you really need to check everything thoroughly, paper-thin discs are the norm, water/oil pump wear is common, along with electrical problems.
Depending on where you're based, my best advice would be to buy in Germany as the bikes are so much better maintained due to the TuV test.

Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply. I've bought quite a few bikes in France and totally agree with what you say. Having had my fingers burnt once with a nearly new enduro bike I'm pretty careful but then again if I pay less than 1000 euros I would expect to have to spend a bit on it.

How do tell if the oil pump is worn?

Usually a film of oil on top of the water in the header tank. An oil pump/water pump rebuild kit is not expensive so it's not the end of the world if have a problem.
For parts, Leboncoin is really good, K parts sold privately, unlike airhead parts, are still really cheap, eg gearboxes for less than 150 euros,
complete engines for not much more.
Good luck with the search!
Mick.