1150 – bike cut out – wouldn’t start – recovery home – Fuse 6 – Help!

DrAlf

DrAlf

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Morning All,

I’m after some help from those more knowledgeable than me. Went out for a ride yesterday, went over a large bump and the bike cut out and wouldn’t restart. On inspection fuse 6 had blown. Shorted the jumpers using a piece of wire bike then started for about 10 seconds running really rough then cut out again. Bought some fuses, replaced Fuse 6 – bike turns over but blows fuse immediately. No fuel pump whirl on start-up but bike turns over – RID fine. Quick search suggests blocked fuel overflow lines – or possibly failed fuel pump. Had a blow down the fuel lines – didn’t seem bunged up. I’ve ordered a load of extra fuses to aid troubleshooting but appreciate thoughts.

Ta:thumb
 
What does F6 protect?.
If you can find a wiring diagram,check wiring to those components for damage/fraying/shorts.
 
Thanks both - F6 is the fuel pump fused circuit. I've checked wiring and whilst it's a mess there's no obvious signs of exposed wires/shorting. Forgot to add that on ignition there's a click from a relay which I believe is the fuel pump relay - although to be confirmed tonight.

Really don't want to start messing around with removing the submerged fuel pump unless I'm 100% certain that it's the cause. I do have a spare but I think it's from an R1150RS so may required modification/faffing about.

I think the fact that the bike stopped after going over a large bump (humpback bridge) is indicative but not certain how. Thoughts appreciated:thumb
 
Try swopping the relays pump (6)....... with motronic (7), and see if your symptoms change.
 

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Will do - thanks:thumb. Currently awaiting a bulk load of 10A fuses which should be here tomorrow.
 
"Spare" Motronic Output Plug

Hi,
Fuse 6 supplies +ve 12V to motronic outputs - ie injectors etc

Think you have same fault I had a few years ago - there's a plug tucked up in a recess between rear mudguard and seats on RH side - think it's called Timing valve 3 on wiring diag. It's not connected to anything - California only I suspect - anyway, wires into this plug had worn through and shorted on a frame web!!!!!!!!!!!!! took me days to find it!!!!!

Cheers....................Grizzly:beerjug:
 
Grizzly said:
Hi,
Fuse 6 supplies +ve 12V to motronic outputs - ie injectors etc

Think you have same fault I had a few years ago - there's a plug tucked up in a recess between rear mudguard and seats on RH side - think it's called Timing valve 3 on wiring diag. It's not connected to anything - California only I suspect - anyway, wires into this plug had worn through and shorted on a frame web!!!!!!!!!!!!! took me days to find it!!!!!

Cheers....................Grizzly:beerjug:
Click to expand...

That's helpful - that'll be the often mentioned canister loom for our American friends. I'll check that tonight - thanks:)
 
Yep, sure that'll be the problem. Plug will have jumped about over bumps up in it's recess if it's not secured enough. took me days - was in amongst splitters inside the main loom above engine etc by the end of it but no trace of earth fault - but +ve wire to this "unused" plug splits off inside the fuse housing and exits from there to the plug.

Cheers......................Grizzly:beerjug:
 
Grizzly said:
Yep, sure that'll be the problem. Plug will have jumped about over bumps up in it's recess if it's not secured enough. took me days - was in amongst splitters inside the main loom above engine etc by the end of it but no trace of earth fault - but +ve wire to this "unused" plug splits off inside the fuse housing and exits from there to the plug.

Cheers......................Grizzly:beerjug:
Click to expand...

Found your old thread and had a read through - there's no substitute for experience (as my father is fond of saying). I do hope that it's a simple as that - last night I was convinced it would require a complete replacement wiring harness!!

I will report back on my findings:)
 
Grizzly said:
Hi,
Fuse 6 supplies +ve 12V to motronic outputs - ie injectors etc

Think you have same fault I had a few years ago - there's a plug tucked up in a recess between rear mudguard and seats on RH side - think it's called Timing valve 3 on wiring diag. It's not connected to anything - California only I suspect - anyway, wires into this plug had worn through and shorted on a frame web!!!!!!!!!!!!! took me days to find it!!!!!

Cheers....................Grizzly:beerjug:
Click to expand...

That must have been a pure bugger to find! I'm going to check mine anyway but hope that it solves your problem. :thumb
 
I had this exact problem.
Check under the left side of the battery cage. The cage is rubber mounted and the loom is just beneath the LHS. It wears through and erodes the insulation.
Once you've repaired the cable, protect the area (I used a bit of plastic chopping board).

Mike :cool:
 
Mike O said:
I had this exact problem.
Check under the left side of the battery cage. The cage is rubber mounted and the loom is just beneath the LHS. It wears through and erodes the insulation.
Once you've repaired the cable, protect the area (I used a bit of plastic chopping board).

Mike :cool:
Click to expand...

Excellent - thanks Mike, I'll check this tonight. To update, I checked the canister cable last night as per Mr Grizzly's advice above. The cable was jammed through the subframe and felt crushed which could be the cause. Further troubleshooting tonight. Thanks:thumb
 
Dr Alf,
My earth fault was a bared wire just where it comes out of the cannister plug - rubbing on a frame web, sorry to hear yours doesn't seem to be the same.
How are you checking things? does fuse 6 blow straight away? If it does the earth fault is present and should show up on a multi-meter as a very low or no resistance between the the outgoing terminal at fuse 6 and earth. You should then be able to monitor this resistance while you unplug the various components supplied by fuse 6 or as you move and examine the various relevant wires/cables/plugs - if the resistance displayed on the meter suddenly increases then you've disturbed or isolated the earth fault and are in the right area.
Do you you have wiring diagrams?
From fuse 6 the power passes through the fuel pump relay then supplies +ve 12v to:-
1. Fuel pump.
2. LH injector
3. RH injector.
4. Timing valve - unused cannister plug as per my 1st post.
5. Lambda oxygen sensor.

Best of luck ............................................Grizzly:beerjug:
 
As has already been suggested, I would be looking at the fuel pump.

Disconnect the fuel tank electrical connector, and feed +12v and earth directly to the tank connector pins. Large Brown (earth) large green +12v. If you use a supply from your accessory socket, the circuit is protected by the same rated fuse (15A) as fuse 6.

If your pump doesn't run and the fuse pops, you pump is toast. If the pump runs OK, then you have a short in your wiring loom somewhere.

Ian
 
Excellent - thanks both. Being doing a bit of research this afternoon - as per IJH, will attempt to run the pump directly off 12V tonight. I'll update tomorrow - thanks:thumb
 
Further investigation last night as follows:

New fuse in slot 6. Tank removed and disconnected. Ignition on for 3 mins – starter turned. Fuse does not blow.

Tank connected – fuel cap open – ignition on – fuse immediately blows on key turn. Repeated twice.

Leads me to believe that the issue is fuel tank side related and nothing to do with the main wiring loom.

Found old battery reading at 11.5V. Connected battery to fuel tank electrical connector – Positive to green, negative to brown via crocodile clips. Small sparks but fuel pump does not engage.

Failed fuel pump?

Repeated above but with spare R1150RS fuel pump assembly (sitting on bench not in tank) – this doesn’t spin either?

Came to the conclusion that maybe the battery is duff as it’s been sitting for about 4 months and wasn’t reading 12V. Removed known good battery from bike – 12.5V and repeated above tests with exactly the same results.

So….. Do I have two x failed fuel pumps or am I doing something wrong here? For info the R1150RS pump was bought from Ebay a good few years ago and has been dry stored since. Appears to be in very good condition/brand new.

Appreciate your thoughts please:)
 
Would be an idea to check the link pipe whilst you've got this to bits if the bikes fairly old and possibly the fuel filter. See my thread here for the trouble the link pipe caused me.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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