Poor man's changing tyre technique

snoopy

Guest
My new tyres have arrived from Germany. I've got the front wheel off and am now trying to fit a new tyre to it. Oh no.

I've got two good tyre levers and no technique. Can someone help or do I need other equipment. I wanted to teach myself in case I ever get a puncture.

Cheers - Andy
 
What bike are we talking about here? If the bike runs tubed tyres – F650, G\S then it shouldn’t be too tricky. If the wheels are tubeless – 80GS, 100GS + 850GS, 1100GS, 1150GS, 1200GS then it’s a bit more complicated. For tubeless tyres it’s more important to learn how to plug a tyre. I’m not expert on this but I’m sure there’ll be someone here who can talk you through the process.
 
Its a 1150gs. I'm now told I need a "bead breaker". Time to pump the old up and take a trip to the garage?
 
Probably, as even if you can get the tyres off and the new ones on do you have an air supply with sufficient capacity to re-seat the beads?
 
Or fill the tyre full of petrol and ignite ;) As I said before, learn to plug the tyres and you'll be fine:thumb
 
You can break the bead using a big vice or g-clamp, but make sure you protect the rims. i just fitted a rear tourance using a g-clamp and a couple of tyre irons, and a bucket of sweat :D
 
Would like to be able to re-seat tubless tyres myself. Anyone know of a DIY method?
 
Try a ratchet cargo strap around the tread, or a rope with a screwdriver to twist it up. Tell the missus to hold it real tight.

I believe there is a video clip of a dude doing it with gas from a butane cylinder. Not sure if you still need to set the tyre pressure this way.....unless it's too high!
 
If you can get the bike & tyres to Oxford, you're welcome to use my tyre changing eqp't - bead breaker, levers, lube, weights & compressor. I can balance the front only though.

Been changing my own for 12+ years.

You can do the work, I'll supervise but will put the kettle on.
 
Possu, will take you up on that - cheers big man! Even better that I can learn how it's done myself :)

Just took a trip to Dunstable. Universal Tyres (name and shame) wanted £22.95 PER tyre and that was after I'd took the wheels off. £45 for 5 mins work. :tosser

Anyone wanna share the correct method to "plug" a tyre then?

I will get these new German Heinheim'ee' things on someday. ;)
 
snoopy said:
.... I'm now told I need a "bead breaker".
I've seen a video of someone breaking the bead on a tyre by laying the wheel flat on the ground and using the side-stand on the tyre, ie using the weight of the bike to your favour. You would obviously have to protect the rims somehow.

I've never tried it, but its worth bearing in mind if you're ever in the brown stuff. :D
 
John Armstrong said:
Does it play ok on UK players, just a thought?
Ooh, dunno. I borrowed the Iceland trip that's in the same series and that wouldn't play on my player but would in the computer. However, the 1150GS DVD works fine.

As for breaking the bead, the sidestand technique's the one he uses in the video and he also puts the tire back in using a ratchet strap (if I remember rightly). I've got the sheet that was given out at the HU meeting detailing how to change a tire. I can't be arsed to type it in but I'll see if I can scan it and post it. Lubrication seemed to be the biggest factor and good (even small) tire levers as he pointed out, if you're putting lots of pressure on it then you're doing it wrong.
 
If you want to practice tubeless puncture repair just puncture a worn out tyre and then fix it. You could even ride it around and then fit the new tyre. You could try it as many times as you need to get the confidence up. :clap

Easier than trying it out for the first time on the hard shoulder in the pissing rain.

I have never had any problems seating the bead on a new tubeless tyre but it is worth getting some rim protectors when using levers. You can use garden hose as rim protctors, cut a 3 inch lenght and then slit it along it's lenght, it will not last very long but it will protect the rim.

If you are going to do this often it's also worth investing in some tyre soap. otherwise a week mix of washing up liquid will do, but don't over do it.

Steve
 
Courtesy of some crafty but interesting OCR:


Step 1 - Removing Your Inner Tube


* first of all remove the inner tube valve and deflate the tube
* Undo the rim lock, Ieaving the nut on the end of the thread
* NoW Completely break the bead away from the rim using a'bead breaker or tyre Jevers
* Starting opposite to the rim lock starrt Ieverìng the tyre ofF the rim. At this po;nt aIways
enSUfe that the Side oppposite to that you are working is puIled into the spoke recess. Thi.s wi.tJ
allOW the tyre to Move across to the sìde that you are working and thus aIJowing jt to be
removed much easier
Step 2 - Removing The Tyre


* Having now removed t^he' ìnner-tu''be. Turn thè'wheet over and folIowing the same buJIet
points mentioned in step 1, Iever the tyre from the rîm
* Whenever fttting or removing tyres directly on the gr'ound, always remember to work w;th
the brake disc top síde. This wìll prevent any damage occuring to the disc. *
Step 3 - Tyre Fitttìng Preparation


* Inspect the rim, rim tape, spoke níppIes and ìnner tube for any írregularìties before
commencìng with the refìt
* Clean all components a'nd Iubricate the bead ofthe tyre, ready for fttting
Step 4 - Rerittting, Sìde 1 '


* Insert the wheel into the hre, rim Iock fìrst. / '
* Now is the time to make sure the tyre is being fittted in the direction that you require. .
* Once again, ensure the bead is set right into the spoke well of the rim and the tyre w;JI lever
on easíly.
Step ? - Re?tting, Síde 2


* Now turn the wheel over. Before fttting the inner tube, slightly ìnflate the tube to the point
that ìt wiII stiII droop over your arm. Thís will help stop the tube being caught between the rím
and the bead when fitting.
* Inserrt the tube, valve first
* Now lubricate the tyre bea'd. Starrt fittting the tyre at the rim lock first, once again ensuring
that the bead is set right into the spoke weIl. This is important at this stage
Step 6 - Dont Pinch That Tube! '


* NOw yOu have got this far, you dont want to pinch that tu%. So, as you lever the tyre make
Su Fe that the tyre lever doesn't go much past the verrtical. Pinches are caused by Jettìng the
hre lever go too far over.
* YOU may need to use your foot to stop the tyre bead riding out from the rìm at the opposite
end
Stèp 7 - Now The Hardest Part


* You wílI now have arrived at the most di_icult part, the last quarter!
* Instead of Ievering three inches of tyre at a time, you will now need to Jever one ;nch at a
time. You wíll find that this will enable you to easily fit that last part. .
Step 8 - Finìshìng Off


* Now that the hre is on, you havent quite finished yet !
* USin9 a lever pulI back the tyre and check that the tube has not been caught between the
riM and the tyre bead. IF it has, ty inflating the tyre and defIatìng, usually this will free it. This
iS qUite iMpO_ant, due to the fact that moSt rìm pinch puctures (whíle riding) are caused by the
tube being caught whiIe fittting or through compression punctures
* FinalIy, puMp the tYre up to seat the bead onto the rim, tìghten 'the rim lock, the.n set your
tyre presSure. for most o_-road rìdinglracing a pressure of 12 - 14 psj is suitable
 
Taff said:
I've seen a video of someone breaking the bead on a tyre by laying the wheel flat on the ground and using the side-stand on the tyre, ie using the weight of the bike to your favour. You would obviously have to protect the rims somehow.

I've never tried it, but its worth bearing in mind if you're ever in the brown stuff. :D

I have heard of this too, but I am baffled on how you do it when one of your wheels is off the bike??? :eek
 
Cookson said:
I would'nt use washing up liquid, it's corrosive to aluminium.

;)

Because it has salt in it - as cookson says, don't use washing up liquid.

it is possible to re-seat tyres without straps, you "bounce" the wheel as you inflate it - takes practise :cool: ;)

But you'll never re-seat the tyre with a CO cannister from the toolkit
 
finglonga said:
I have heard of this too, but I am baffled on how you do it when one of your wheels is off the bike??? :eek

use the center stand, and lean the bike onto the tyre with one foot of the stand . The GS is very stable on one wheel and the stand
 


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