Oilhead Swingarm pivot pins – Help!

DrAlf

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Morning All

I was hoping that someone may be able to shed some light on the black art of oilhead swingarm assembly as I’ve been having a spot of bother. The swingarm pivots on four pivot pins – 2 of which go through the gearbox casing and the swingarm holding the front of the swingarm in place and the other 2 go through the rear end of the swingarm and the bevel box. The question is how do you get those pivot pins in place?

I assumed that it was as simple as applying a little loctite to each of the pins and then simply zonking up the pins to the required torque settings – 160nm for the supporting sides and 7nm for the floating sides. However a friend of mine has told me that it’s not quite as simple as that. Apparently at least one (if not all) of the pins is an interference fit requiring the pin to be frozen and the swingarm\bevel box to be heated in order to get the pin in place. On top of this I’m told that the pin requires special loctite – not just common garden loctite – but special BMW loctite that also needs to be heated before the pivot pin is inserted through the swingarm and bevel box. This all sounds a bit over complicated to me. So has anyone out there taken their swingarm off before and can confirm the procedure of putting it all back together again?

Many thanks in advance

ATB

Alfie.
 
The repair manual doesn't mention anything about freezing the bolts or using special heated Loctite.

It just says:

Installing rear swinging arm
• Slide swinging arm over drive shaft as far as possible
until rubber gaiter connects on housing
neck.
• Install fixed-bearing stud bolt (1) with Loctite.
• Install floating-bearing stud bolt (2) with Loctite.
• Tighten fixed bearing stud bolt.
• Tighten floating bearing stud bolt.
• Firmly tighten locknut.
• Secure spring strut.

Caution:
The universal joints for universal shaft and rear
wheel drive must be installed in the same position.

Caution:
When tightening threaded fasteners coated with
Loctite 2701, always apply final torque without delay.
Allow at least 3 hours for the Loctite to cure.

Tightening torque:
Fixed-bearing stud bolt
(clean thread + Loctite 2701)...................... 160 Nm
Floating-bearing stud bolt
(clean thread + Loctite 2701).......................... 7 Nm
Locknut ...................................................... 160 Nm
Spring strut to swinging arm
(clean thread + Loctite 243).......................... 58 Nm
Spring strut to rear frame ............................. 50 Nm
 
When cleaning the threads, both male and female it is imperative that you really clean all scum from the previous Loctite left on the threads.

The easiest way to do this I've found, is to carefully use a thread file to remove the large bits and then to carefully use Re-agent Acetone (available from a chemist in Australia) to strip the threads of lifes little impurities.

The whole cleaning bit takes about 10 minutes to 20 maximum.

You will have some difficulty when putting back the inside swing arm locking nut. The torque for the actual bearing stud bolt is 7nm and you then have to not move that stud bolt and at the same time, torque the locking nut to 160nm. This procedure is tricky unless you can get someone to fabricate a tool to help you do this.

Other than that it's really easy and if you go carefully, then you will be amazed at what you can do.

Mick.
 
Wow! Thanks a lot to all you guys – that’s exactly what I needed to know. What a great resource this BB is. I have to admit to making a bit of a mess of the whole procedure last weekend. I’ll have another crack at it next weekend and let you know how I get on.

ATB

Aflie.
 
“Use the biggest hammer you can find.”

Tried that one, that’s what got me into this mess in the first place!
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
 


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