On the first morning Phil gets his puncture fixed and I get my centre stand straightened and a piece of angle iron welded to it, by one of the local Mechanics (who didn´t think that bashing it whilst cold was a good idea as one did), to give it some more strength. I buy a can of black spray on the way home and Hey Presto ! Job done. Once the stand is temporararily fitted I check the front tyre for damage from the ride in and discover quite a few glass shards and a nail. Once the nail is removed the air within the inner tube follows suite ! I also have a puncture ! Phil re-fits his tyre and checks his rear one and is relived that there are no more nails evident, although more glass. With the ill-feeling in Ecuador about the American trade agreement there is a curfew operating in our town at 10 o’clock.
I take my front wheel to “our” puncture repair man and he repairs the inner-tube whilst Phil and I have breakfast. That done, its back to the Hotel to re-fit the front wheel. Just as I’m about to do so I notice that the front brake pads are almost worn down to the backing plate and so I replace them with spares I’d been carrying. Once fitted I was surprised to find the front wheel binding very badly with the new pads and Phil and I discuss possible reasons. We finally conclude that we have experienced similar occurrences before and are reasonably confident the new pads will settle down after a few miles. I then examine my rear tyre to find quite a lot more glass shards in that and two nails. I remove the glass shards with no problems and the first nail but the second is accompanied by a loud hiss. Arrrrgghhhh !!!! I drop the rear wheel off and hop in a Taxi with it back to the repair man, then back in another cab to our hotel where I refit it and properly secure the centre stand. The brakes, front and rear, are quite spongy and I hope they will settle down on our ride on Sunday towards Latacunga, the beginning of our next adventure, the Quilotoa loop. As we wind down in the lounge we are aware of a man on a megaphone addressing crowds up in the surrounding hills. 2 hours later we hear a large and noisy crowd charging through the town, this shortly followed by 4 or 5 gun-type blasts. It was a bit un-nerving and I wondered whether to get dressed again in case we need to exit quickly, I’m also conscious of Monan, a young Dutch woman living in our hotel, being on her own. Phil was at a window in our hotel and found his throat tighten and his eyes watering and we came to the obvious conclusion in the morning that the Military had used tear gas. We also learnt the following morning that the crowd had apparently charged the military and forced them into a corner in one part of town, hence the use of tear-gas.
We learn from Monan that there is an animal market on Saturday morning which is quite a spectacle and so I decide to get up early to visit it. It is quite a site/sight and the rain which is falling in abundance, adds to the whole event. There are Pigs, piglets, sheep and cows all either snuffling in the dirt or refusing to go where their masters wished them to. This all being accompanied by a chorus of sqweeling and snorting.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628967.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The Animal Market....quite a sight !...and smell !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628990.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628978.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
How many went to market ?
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628949.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
I think this one enjoyed its time at the market too much, certainly didn´t want to go home !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628955.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...still some seemed bored to sleep...I watched this cow for a while, and it was just dozing.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136630462.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
This pig was a bit of a character, seemed interested in things over and above mud.(Perhaps we could all learn a lesson from him !
) I also dedicate this pig to my sister, Amie, who has an admiration for pigs. 
I leave the market and head back to the Hotel from where Phil and I had arranged to go on a walk around the surrounding country-side, however as it is raining quite hard I leave Phil to have a lie in. Somewhere along the lines we lost a day and discovered that the main market, which Otavleo is reknowned for, is open today, and so we head off down there, only temporarily distracted by breakfast. The market is huge and colourful and I take the opportunity to buy my Nephews & Nieces some souvenirs. I also decide to buy a pay-as-you go phone as my Nokia tri-band hasn’t worked since Mexico as the band they use here is different to home. I quite specifically explain that I only want it for text messages for friends in Australia and England.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628994.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Those of you dissapointed not to have owned a new Suzuki TS125 or 185 need look no further. You can find them next to white goods in most stores in Ecuador ! See the cooker in the background.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628986.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A weaver weaves whilst managing her market stall.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136629007.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
There seems to be no limit as to what you can buy on a market stall, imitation guns, babies, BABIES !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628971.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Never short of colour and this fuit probably free of many pesticides.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136630423.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Found this Lady trying on and buying a pair of wellington boots just before these photos.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136630430.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The weather clears up in the afternoon and we decide to do a brief walk of a bout 2-3km, according to our host who is a guide, to a local waterfall. The waterfall is in the general direction of a local Condor sanctuary which is 5km away. The walk starts out very steep and we have a bit of trouble establishing the actual route he advised.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628999.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The start of our walk.....
After quite a lot of walking we see the sign to the Condor sanctuary again, which is now only 0.5km away. We decide as we’ve come this far we might as well visit it. It is run by a Dutch guy who runs it as a trust, having started it with his own money, and it is quite an impressive set up. We get to see the two Condors he has and witness them flying briefly. They are massive-their wing span is approximately 2m. We start to see them fly some of the other birds too but the cloud closed in with accompanying rain and they had to stop for fear of losing/confusing them.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628988.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One of the condors in flight. Words and this photo do not do justice to how huge these birds are.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628960.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Spectacled Owls.
We head off towards the waterfall having been given new directions. It continues to rain but the scenery is very nice and we slip and slide down into a gorge.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628958.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The gorge, wet but very beautiful.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628963.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Phil captures a shot of me in action ! ...Indiana Jones watch out !!
The waterfall turns out to be a dissapointment, although a man-made water-channel creates a nice substitute for the camera ! We finally get back to our hotel and we estimate we have walked in excess of 10km !! Both tired, we settle for a Chinese and a beer and take an early night as we plan to leave in the morning.!! Just before bed though, I decide to try my phone and am unable to send or receive texts to or from Australia …but I can phone !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136630439.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Overflow of an aquaduct...works in the abscence of a real waterfall !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136630412.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The remainder of one of the road blocks from the farmers protest.
In the morning we set about packing the bikes back up again to leave for Latacunga. I head back to the mobile phone shop and learn that the network I‘m on doesn‘t allow texts to Australia !!. We have a very long converstaion which basically went something along the lines of…“ I explained yesterday that I wanted this phone for texts to Australia and England”…that was understood and agreed,…their part went something along the lines of “the Sim card is now registered in your name and it costs $15”, to which I respond” I'm sorry but that is not my problem”…this goes on until the assistant phones the Manager who says he will come to the store in one hour. I agree to wait and finish packing my bike. I return again and we go through the same circular arguments until we arrive at a compromise which cost me $4. I agree and he is quite keen that we finish with me being genuinely satisfied with the outcome. A bit strange after England but I appreciate the sentiment and allow myself to re-consider what values have become.
Heading towards Latacunga I realise that the spongy brake problem from Otalvelo is not subsiding and happily see a BMW dealership on the outskirts of Quito. I convey to Phil that I'm not happy with my brakes and we decide to stay another night in Quito, at our old Hotel, The Majestic, with a view to me visiting the dealer first thing Monday morning. Phil is also delighted as he gets to make another visit to the Turtles head !
The next morning I get up early, get breakfast, re-pack and visit the BMW dealer. Over breakfast I busy myself learning the Spanish for I’d like my brake fluid changed please. I get to the dealer about 09:45 and make my request. To my amazement and delight, I am understood immediately and the bike is immediately placed in the workshop for the job to be done. It seems to be taking a long time, and after questioning what was happening, I am taken to where my bike now stands, with a young man cleaning it !! Ever grateful, I let him finish, especially as I hadn’t cleaned the rear-wheel rim at the hotel last week !! The brakes are excellent, the best they have ever been, and the bill is $23 !! I give the manager and cleaner appropriate tips for their rapid service and decent clean and leave.
Once Phil had checked out of the Majestic we head for Latacunga and the rain pours down-At one point we sheltered in a shop door way, and whilst doing so, it starts to hail. In less than 10mins the road is flooded and buses and lorries are creating 3-4ft high spray.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136693418.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Rain Ecuadorian style and this shot was genuinely taken within about 10 mins of the rain starting.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136693424.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Phil is warning me that a truck is backing up into me !. I´m oblivious
The sky is very black. Finally the rain subsides to a reasonable level and we set off again, me with my BMW over-suit on, and both of us wearing winter gloves ! We arrive at Latacunga and find a Hotel overlooking the main Plaza. Phil is very cold from the rain and we both jump in the showers pretty well straight away and head out to dinner.
Mike
I take my front wheel to “our” puncture repair man and he repairs the inner-tube whilst Phil and I have breakfast. That done, its back to the Hotel to re-fit the front wheel. Just as I’m about to do so I notice that the front brake pads are almost worn down to the backing plate and so I replace them with spares I’d been carrying. Once fitted I was surprised to find the front wheel binding very badly with the new pads and Phil and I discuss possible reasons. We finally conclude that we have experienced similar occurrences before and are reasonably confident the new pads will settle down after a few miles. I then examine my rear tyre to find quite a lot more glass shards in that and two nails. I remove the glass shards with no problems and the first nail but the second is accompanied by a loud hiss. Arrrrgghhhh !!!! I drop the rear wheel off and hop in a Taxi with it back to the repair man, then back in another cab to our hotel where I refit it and properly secure the centre stand. The brakes, front and rear, are quite spongy and I hope they will settle down on our ride on Sunday towards Latacunga, the beginning of our next adventure, the Quilotoa loop. As we wind down in the lounge we are aware of a man on a megaphone addressing crowds up in the surrounding hills. 2 hours later we hear a large and noisy crowd charging through the town, this shortly followed by 4 or 5 gun-type blasts. It was a bit un-nerving and I wondered whether to get dressed again in case we need to exit quickly, I’m also conscious of Monan, a young Dutch woman living in our hotel, being on her own. Phil was at a window in our hotel and found his throat tighten and his eyes watering and we came to the obvious conclusion in the morning that the Military had used tear gas. We also learnt the following morning that the crowd had apparently charged the military and forced them into a corner in one part of town, hence the use of tear-gas.
We learn from Monan that there is an animal market on Saturday morning which is quite a spectacle and so I decide to get up early to visit it. It is quite a site/sight and the rain which is falling in abundance, adds to the whole event. There are Pigs, piglets, sheep and cows all either snuffling in the dirt or refusing to go where their masters wished them to. This all being accompanied by a chorus of sqweeling and snorting.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628967.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The Animal Market....quite a sight !...and smell !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628990.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628978.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
How many went to market ?
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628949.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
I think this one enjoyed its time at the market too much, certainly didn´t want to go home !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628955.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
...still some seemed bored to sleep...I watched this cow for a while, and it was just dozing.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136630462.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
This pig was a bit of a character, seemed interested in things over and above mud.(Perhaps we could all learn a lesson from him !
) I also dedicate this pig to my sister, Amie, who has an admiration for pigs. I leave the market and head back to the Hotel from where Phil and I had arranged to go on a walk around the surrounding country-side, however as it is raining quite hard I leave Phil to have a lie in. Somewhere along the lines we lost a day and discovered that the main market, which Otavleo is reknowned for, is open today, and so we head off down there, only temporarily distracted by breakfast. The market is huge and colourful and I take the opportunity to buy my Nephews & Nieces some souvenirs. I also decide to buy a pay-as-you go phone as my Nokia tri-band hasn’t worked since Mexico as the band they use here is different to home. I quite specifically explain that I only want it for text messages for friends in Australia and England.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628994.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Those of you dissapointed not to have owned a new Suzuki TS125 or 185 need look no further. You can find them next to white goods in most stores in Ecuador ! See the cooker in the background.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628986.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A weaver weaves whilst managing her market stall.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136629007.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
There seems to be no limit as to what you can buy on a market stall, imitation guns, babies, BABIES !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628971.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Never short of colour and this fuit probably free of many pesticides.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136630423.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Found this Lady trying on and buying a pair of wellington boots just before these photos.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136630430.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The weather clears up in the afternoon and we decide to do a brief walk of a bout 2-3km, according to our host who is a guide, to a local waterfall. The waterfall is in the general direction of a local Condor sanctuary which is 5km away. The walk starts out very steep and we have a bit of trouble establishing the actual route he advised.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628999.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The start of our walk.....
After quite a lot of walking we see the sign to the Condor sanctuary again, which is now only 0.5km away. We decide as we’ve come this far we might as well visit it. It is run by a Dutch guy who runs it as a trust, having started it with his own money, and it is quite an impressive set up. We get to see the two Condors he has and witness them flying briefly. They are massive-their wing span is approximately 2m. We start to see them fly some of the other birds too but the cloud closed in with accompanying rain and they had to stop for fear of losing/confusing them.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628988.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One of the condors in flight. Words and this photo do not do justice to how huge these birds are.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628960.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Spectacled Owls.
We head off towards the waterfall having been given new directions. It continues to rain but the scenery is very nice and we slip and slide down into a gorge.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628958.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The gorge, wet but very beautiful.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136628963.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Phil captures a shot of me in action ! ...Indiana Jones watch out !!
The waterfall turns out to be a dissapointment, although a man-made water-channel creates a nice substitute for the camera ! We finally get back to our hotel and we estimate we have walked in excess of 10km !! Both tired, we settle for a Chinese and a beer and take an early night as we plan to leave in the morning.!! Just before bed though, I decide to try my phone and am unable to send or receive texts to or from Australia …but I can phone !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136630439.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Overflow of an aquaduct...works in the abscence of a real waterfall !!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136630412.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The remainder of one of the road blocks from the farmers protest.
In the morning we set about packing the bikes back up again to leave for Latacunga. I head back to the mobile phone shop and learn that the network I‘m on doesn‘t allow texts to Australia !!. We have a very long converstaion which basically went something along the lines of…“ I explained yesterday that I wanted this phone for texts to Australia and England”…that was understood and agreed,…their part went something along the lines of “the Sim card is now registered in your name and it costs $15”, to which I respond” I'm sorry but that is not my problem”…this goes on until the assistant phones the Manager who says he will come to the store in one hour. I agree to wait and finish packing my bike. I return again and we go through the same circular arguments until we arrive at a compromise which cost me $4. I agree and he is quite keen that we finish with me being genuinely satisfied with the outcome. A bit strange after England but I appreciate the sentiment and allow myself to re-consider what values have become.
Heading towards Latacunga I realise that the spongy brake problem from Otalvelo is not subsiding and happily see a BMW dealership on the outskirts of Quito. I convey to Phil that I'm not happy with my brakes and we decide to stay another night in Quito, at our old Hotel, The Majestic, with a view to me visiting the dealer first thing Monday morning. Phil is also delighted as he gets to make another visit to the Turtles head !
The next morning I get up early, get breakfast, re-pack and visit the BMW dealer. Over breakfast I busy myself learning the Spanish for I’d like my brake fluid changed please. I get to the dealer about 09:45 and make my request. To my amazement and delight, I am understood immediately and the bike is immediately placed in the workshop for the job to be done. It seems to be taking a long time, and after questioning what was happening, I am taken to where my bike now stands, with a young man cleaning it !! Ever grateful, I let him finish, especially as I hadn’t cleaned the rear-wheel rim at the hotel last week !! The brakes are excellent, the best they have ever been, and the bill is $23 !! I give the manager and cleaner appropriate tips for their rapid service and decent clean and leave.
Once Phil had checked out of the Majestic we head for Latacunga and the rain pours down-At one point we sheltered in a shop door way, and whilst doing so, it starts to hail. In less than 10mins the road is flooded and buses and lorries are creating 3-4ft high spray.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136693418.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Rain Ecuadorian style and this shot was genuinely taken within about 10 mins of the rain starting.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/8448420/136693424.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Phil is warning me that a truck is backing up into me !. I´m oblivious
The sky is very black. Finally the rain subsides to a reasonable level and we set off again, me with my BMW over-suit on, and both of us wearing winter gloves ! We arrive at Latacunga and find a Hotel overlooking the main Plaza. Phil is very cold from the rain and we both jump in the showers pretty well straight away and head out to dinner.
Mike
