Backfires and erratic tickover

HeatedGrips

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My GS has started to backfire occasionally on the overrun and sometimes cuts out when I pull the clutch in coming to a standstill.

It's now got 1,800 miles on it, and I had a Y-piece and K&N air filter fitted at the 600 mile service. Still got the original end can.

I'm obviously going to book it in under warranty, but I'd like to be armed with a few theories first.

Has anyone got any ideas what might be wrong?
 
My Adv has suffered from intermittent backfiring ever since I fitted a Y piece. From what I've read, the main cause is air leaks between the Y piece and the end can, cured by using some exhaust sealant at the joint. It's not been a major problem on my bike, so I've not bothered fixing it, but some people have reported it happening more frequently.
I'm led to believe that there are fewer problems if you fit a race can, rather than sticking with the original (I think it was Pro Boxer who posted that....). I'm fitting a Remus next week, I'll post any change.


MikeO:)
 
mine did the same and Deefa's does it to order, fitted race can and surging has all but gone, backfires minimised and loads of midrange.
 
the back fire on over-run is caused by a slug in the exhaust ( a section a slow moving air) it does not happen when you fit ANY remus can race or not, but will suffer extreme back fire with BM can & Y-Peice
 
Professional Boxer said:
the back fire on over-run is caused by a slug in the exhaust ( a section a slow moving air) it does not happen when you fit ANY remus can race or not, but will suffer extreme back fire with BM can & Y-Peice

however,
i have a sebring y. and remus race and as den has already stated it will backfire at will.

howcome ?
 
Basically the exhuast systems are designed to be used as one, so any mix & match will alter the characteritics of the exhaust.

They are tuned to be used as one, this includes the air flow of the the exhaust. On decelleration a pellett of slow moving air is created by the slowing down of the engine, if the exhaust system is not tuned correctly then it can suck air/fuel from the cylinder, when this hits the air it will explode causing the backfire, this should only really happen on closing the throttle fairly quickly from high rev's.
:beerjug:
 
Thanks for all the advice everyone. One more question

Looks like I should fit a Remus can to balance the whole system, will that also cure the variable tickover/stalling problem?
 
Professional Boxer said:
Basically the exhuast systems are designed to be used as one, so any mix & match will alter the characteritics of the exhaust.

They are tuned to be used as one, this includes the air flow of the the exhaust. On decelleration a pellett of slow moving air is created by the slowing down of the engine, if the exhaust system is not tuned correctly then it can suck air/fuel from the cylinder, when this hits the air it will explode causing the backfire, this should only really happen on closing the throttle fairly quickly from high rev's.
:beerjug:

yep thats how you do it, slightly long blip and 'bang'.
very entertaining at zebra crossings, filtering, under bridges, etc.
my fave is the dufa who tries to block you on the motorway cuz he is stationary and you are filtering, esp if he has his (or her0 window open. :D :beerjug:
 
Will a Remus race can fitted to the standard collector & cat. make any difference (apart from looks and noise) to the bike, or should the whole system be changed?
 
Originally posted by Professional Boxer
the back fire on over-run is caused by a slug in the exhaust ( a section a slow moving air) it does not happen when you fit ANY remus can race or not, but will suffer extreme back fire with BM can & Y-Peice

Afraid they do, both my GS1150 and R1150R back fired when I fitted full Remus System. GS cured when I installed BB Powerchip.
Four GS owning Friends have found same, only cure appears to be Techlusion Box or Chip.
Exhausts fitted correctly, no leaks.
 
sorry to pull this one up again --

question: my gs with y-piece and standard can backfires. i installed it using firegum and then had my dealer re-do it for me ;-) but it still backfires. does backfiring damage anything in anyway?

pr0ne
 
Sebring - Remus

Professional Boxer said:
Basically the exhuast systems are designed to be used as one, so any mix & match will alter the characteritics of the exhaust.

Hi pro bo

I thought Sebring and Remus were made in the same factory and were to all intents identical (apart from branding).
I currently run a Remus Y-piece with the OE can and do suffer backfires. I am looking to add a can and want a Sebring Twister mainly because every man and his dog has a Remus :D
Any comments?

Simon
 
They've all got Sebrings too!

Be 'out there' and get a Two Brothers and be one of the elite few!:D :D :D
 
back firing

I also suffer from back firing - The set up I have is GS ADV with a Sebring Y piece, K&N Filter and the original BM exhaust, I have not used any sealant to close the joints (as yet). This will be my next step to see if I can solve the back firing.

But if it does not - what do you guys advise – get an aftermarket exhaust or just install the chip (or do both)? If I was to go for an aftermarket exhust is the only option to go for a Sebring (as I already have the Y-piece from Sebring) or can I mix and match with Remus?
 
RE: stalling

Heatedgrips, My GS1100 backfires and I have had it cut out at lights. The problem with mine was a too slow tickover and very badly balanced throttle bodies. Backfiring is also worse if the throttle cables are out of adjustment, especially if one throttle doesnt shut properly when you close the throttle. As for the backfire it still happens but only when I shut off.

Iain.
 
Backdraught

BMW set the fuelling up on the boxer engines to be really lean so they can get through the dreaded EU emissions thingy. So their lean to start with, got that their lean (weak mixture) stick on a 'Y' piece (take off the cat) and you have immediately upset BMW hard work (Less back pressure...bad thing if lean already) Enter the Remus or any other look at me don't it sound great can onto the site of the original BMW silencer and the exhaust is leaving the system (more importantly taking fuel out from the cylinder..leaner still!) quickly than the current fuel map can deal with; hence all the popping and banging. Yes you may well get a better mid range but the things running too lean, unless you fit another chip/Tech..thingy or power commander etc. The Lambda sensor and ECU do not have enough range to cater for this extreme leaning off of the mixture. If you put a K&N filter on that makes it even leaner still. Depending on how you ride will influence just when you burn out your exhaust valves. Yes Yes go for the noise but get the fuelling sorted please or you'll be in for expensive out of warranty repairs. Now shoot me dead if I've bored you too much. Erm MCN just last Weds. even said the same about BMW 1150 GS's running very lean too!
 
The definitive guide

I don't suppose a biblical - recommended definition is out there somewhere for the best recommended setup?

Not being mechanically minded, by the time I have read through a couple of these threads on exhausts/chips/techlusion/Lambda products & settings articles I come away even more confused than when I started.

Seems to me goons like myself risk damaging the engine by tweaking without the knowledge.

Is there someone who can do this for us - non mechanical folks?

I have a Remus endcan & want to get the Y-piece now, but looks like I also need to probably get a chip or techlusion ----- now was that Lamda supposed to be in or out ?????????

Dave:confused:
 
I've got the 'y' piece, K&N and Techlusion (R259) - the bike still backfires. I fixed a small leak between the y and standard can this morning and it still backfires. I'm very close to buying a Sebring Twister but I'm not convinced the banging will stop.
 


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