whining gs!

russ996duke

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well the new ear plugs from ultimate ear are great, so much external noise is cut out that I can now hear my music and comms at a reasonably good level of quality!

So good, in fact that the whine from the bike that was inaudible before (sooo much wind noise and crackle!!!) is now quite clear!:blast

I can live with it, I think, if I have too.....but has anyone tried fitting electrical suppresion to the generator (main suspect) or the fuel injection (fuel pump?) and if so how did they do it and what components did the use and where did they fit them?:confused:

cheers lads and lasses!
 
well the new ear plugs from ultimate ear are great, so much external noise is cut out that I can now hear my music and comms at a reasonably good level of quality!

So good, in fact that the whine from the bike that was inaudible before (sooo much wind noise and crackle!!!) is now quite clear!:blast

I can live with it, I think, if I have too.....but has anyone tried fitting electrical suppresion to the generator (main suspect) or the fuel injection (fuel pump?) and if so how did they do it and what components did the use and where did they fit them?:confused:

cheers lads and lasses!

Where is the noise coming from? When i powerd my ipod and or phone i had to get the speical leads from autocom that stop bike powerd gadgets from filtering the bike noise through. Not sure how to explain this better, when i go a new suppresion lead for that unit the noise went away !!! Maybe Rich can help you? Good Luck dude.

Regards

Mick:thumb2
 
well the new ear plugs from ultimate ear are great, so much external noise is cut out that I can now hear my music and comms at a reasonably good level of quality!

So good, in fact that the whine from the bike that was inaudible before (sooo much wind noise and crackle!!!) is now quite clear!:blast

I can live with it, I think, if I have too.....but has anyone tried fitting electrical suppresion to the generator (main suspect) or the fuel injection (fuel pump?) and if so how did they do it and what components did the use and where did they fit them?:confused:

cheers lads and lasses!

What are you running on your bike mate? Once I know this I might be able to shed a bit of light on whats going on.

Rich
 
What are you running on your bike mate? Once I know this I might be able to shed a bit of light on whats going on.

Rich

hiya, well, autocom system is kit 3 active rider, creative zen 30gb vision mp3 player, garmin gps......autocom is located on top of aircleaner housing, wiring fitted in wherever room permits!
I suspect wiring is acting as a sort of aerial, picking up whine from generator, so as the technology is so basic on gs1100, I sort of thought a suppressor capacitor could be fitted to take it out.....:confused:
 
cool, so what leads are you using to connect the GPS and is the music soruce bike or battery powered?

Rich
 
cool, so what leads are you using to connect the GPS and is the music soruce bike or battery powered?

Rich

the gps lead is the standard autocom lead and connects into the standard garmin lead for the 2610...the mp3 player is battery driven!
 
the gps lead is the standard autocom lead and connects into the standard garmin lead for the 2610...the mp3 player is battery driven!

Theres your problem dude you need a non staderd lead when you power up a GPS, Phone or MP3 player, Rich can tell you how to fix it, sounds like your be sorted very soon. :thumb2
 
?? I run GPS and DAB/Ipod from battery and mains and have never had any interference probs? Get a bit of crackle on FM, but that's all.
 
You are actually running our standard phone lead, two problems then. 1, its not isolated so interference. 2, it runs a stereo connection where the GPS runs on mono so there will be volume drop

So mate you will need our Parts 1282 and 1294 £29 to get you correctly connected. The Part 1282 is an isolation block adaptor and the 1294 is the correct GPS interface lead.

When you fit the lead you will need to run the GPS lead as high as possible along your bike staying clear of the HT leads, BMW are a nightmare for interference issues

Rich :beerjug:
 
You are actually running our standard phone lead, two problems then. 1, its not isolated so interference. 2, it runs a stereo connection where the GPS runs on mono so there will be volume drop

So mate you will need our Parts 1282 and 1294 £29 to get you correctly connected. The Part 1282 is an isolation block adaptor and the 1294 is the correct GPS interface lead.

When you fit the lead you will need to run the GPS lead as high as possible along your bike staying clear of the HT leads, BMW are a nightmare for interference issues

Rich :beerjug:
hi rich, dont know where you got the info that I am running the gps through a phone lead... :confused: the lead I use is actually a gps specific lead that autocom supplied...no phone on bike as that is one of the things I ride a bike to get away from!
the mp3 player uses the autocom standard lead for mp3s...I have got a part 57 ( I think from memory or part 56...anyway its the one thats half red and half black) tucked away under tank next to the autocom, which I could use for a phone if I wanted one on board, but just the phone lead in place but not connected up. No volume drop from the gps, in fact with new ear plugs I have been able to turn the volume down on that Garmin F*****g B****h, as I affectionately call her! The cable runs are all above engine along sides of rail to the side of the battery and abs etc etc gubbins that resides under tank, I can understand why bwms are interference prone, altho the whine I get is pretty low key and is liveable with if the only alternative is to spend the sort of dosh that you mentionned on a couple of wires! thanks for your input tho'...its looks like a couple of capacitors welded on wont do the job?
 
monitor earplugs

Russ,
I have the same problem when using monitor earplugs with Autocoms Headset extension lead (#1187). They are so sensitive (much more so than the helmet speakers and they're sticking right in your ear) that they pick up every last remnant of interference and internally generated noise.
I just don't notice it most of the time. If I find it bothersome, I'll pull out the 3.5mm stereo or the main DIN plug.


Good luck!
 
hi rich, dont know where you got the info that I am running the gps through a phone lead... :confused: the lead I use is actually a gps specific lead that autocom supplied...no phone on bike as that is one of the things I ride a bike to get away from!
the mp3 player uses the autocom standard lead for mp3s...I have got a part 57 ( I think from memory or part 56...anyway its the one thats half red and half black) tucked away under tank next to the autocom, which I could use for a phone if I wanted one on board, but just the phone lead in place but not connected up. No volume drop from the gps, in fact with new ear plugs I have been able to turn the volume down on that Garmin F*****g B****h, as I affectionately call her! The cable runs are all above engine along sides of rail to the side of the battery and abs etc etc gubbins that resides under tank, I can understand why bwms are interference prone, altho the whine I get is pretty low key and is liveable with if the only alternative is to spend the sort of dosh that you mentionned on a couple of wires! thanks for your input tho'...its looks like a couple of capacitors welded on wont do the job?

My apologies mate I thought you said you were using our standard lead, normally this means a phone lead from what most of our customers use. So it looks like you already have the correct leads then. So I would say the problem will be down to the location of your Part 57 or the main control unit. I would suggest running the bike so you can here the whine and just move the parts around slightly then you should here the whine dissapear or get louder etc. Im sure you will get there.

Rich
 
yes will try moving them around a bit just to see what happens, altho no much room for manoeuver...pity theres not space in toll box area further away from engine!
 


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